To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Circular saw first timer any advise

jdmstr

Banned
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
264
Location
USA
got myself a new Skilsaw for a few projects around the house ive read the basics and just wondering if i bought a good saw and if you have any pointers or suggestions on how i can work better and most importantly safer please share.

17x307.jpg


http://www.skiltools.com/Tools/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?model=5680-02
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
J

jdmstr

Banned
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
264
Location
USA
What kind of projects are you planning?

cutting plywood to fix a bad part of subfloor and cutting the end for a few pieces of laminate (hardwood floor) i understand the circular saw isn't the best choice for laminate but i understand it can be done if your carefully secure your workpiece.
 

Ingram306

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Messages
140
Long cuts. When ripping down plywood sheets throw the cord over your shoulder, or at least make sure it is off to the side, otherwise when you get about 6 feet down the board the cord gets caught on the edge you started. It may not make sense in writing but you'll do it eventually and realize what I'm talking about. You can use a speed square in conjunction with the Saw to make 90degree cuts if you don't feel like walking back to the miter. There's countless things you can do with a circ saw, just practice and you'll be cutting rafters over your knee before you know it. And don't always trust the laser. Gimmicks always fail in the end haha
 

Ingram306

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Messages
140
cutting plywood to fix a bad part of subfloor and cutting the end for a few pieces of laminate (hardwood floor) i understand the circular saw isn't the best choice for laminate but i understand it can be done if your carefully secure your workpiece.

In that case practice making some plunge cuts, as the saw behaves a little differently. Also throw a diablo demo demon on there for the subfloor replacement. Then you can mark where you need to cut and disregard any nails or screws. Just go right over them. I have a worm drive set up with a demo demon just for that exact type of job. Just make sure you set the depth to just a hair past 3/4" (or whatever floor thickness you have) when taking up the old floor.
 
Last edited:

vinnythestick

Member
Joined
May 26, 2014
Messages
19
Dont put too much stock into that laser. get or make yourself a nice straight edge jig. pretty easy to make them with scrap wood and a nail or two.
 
OP
J

jdmstr

Banned
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
264
Location
USA
In that case practice making some plunge cuts, as the saw behaves a little differently. Also throw a diablo demo demon on there for the subfloor replacement. Then you can mark where you need to cut and disregard any nails or screws. Just go right over them. I have a worm drive set up with a demo demon just for that exact type of job. Just make sure you set the depth to just a hair past 3/4" (or whatever floor thickness you have) when taking up the old floor.

awesome thats what i was worried about was hitting nails in the subfoor. ill check those blades out there made by freud right? i was thinking to grab a bosch daredevil 40T blade to cut the laminate would that be the right type of blade?
 

Ingram306

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Messages
140
Yeah they're made by Freud. I'd go a little higher than 40. More teeth will give you a finer finish. Grab a 60 if you can Try a few scrap pieces, I know certain types of laminate like to be cut upside down. I don't know if it's the glue or the combination of the glue and the heat of the blade that sometimes causes the top layer to flake off a little when cut "right side up". This may seem like a lot, don't put too much thought into it. I have guys using slil saw for me that require velcro workboots ;)
 

Hogtown

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
41
Don't have any portion of your body directly behind the saw. Occasionally , saws will kick backwards and when they do you don't want to be in the way.
 

cheechi

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
4,384
Location
Triad, NC
safety glasses, at least a basic dust mask, cans or ear plugs. That is a good chalk line, I have the same one branded bostitch, but I'd get the blue chalk. Red is permanent and you might not want that.

Personally I wouldn't get a Skil unless you go for the mag77. Depending what's available local, if you can get one of the higher end Milwaukees then maybe that's better than what I can. I chose a Dewalt 369 as that's the best combination of comfort & function for me. I think the best that's around for the non-worm saw style I can get around here without ordering it. A lot of these lower end saws don't stay square for more than a few cuts at a time.

Magnesium base, light & oriented so that it's comfortable to you. What you want is one you can use safely and correctly overhead and vertically. That's most of the criteria you should be looking for in a saw. Some have the front handle in different locations, and different shapes for the main handle. Holding each one in the store for a while in different orientations is how you can tell what's the best one for you.
 
Last edited:

southalabama

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
5,532
Location
Brewton AL
Most of the contractors here use dewalt.

Not to down grade the saw but it's a homeowner saw. We've had good luck with older skil toolS. I tend to go for contractor grade tools.

My advice. Watch kickback and know where your fingers are at all times.
 

themiller

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2012
Messages
4,805
Location
Seattle Suburbs
Get the right blade for your cut. The one size fits all blade which comes with the average saw ***** at just about everything. I find 40T blades to be a nice starting point for most projects.
 

jakemac

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
9,035
Location
New England
What others have said, plus -

Never put the saw down until you're certain that the blade has stopped.

Always check to make sure the blade guard has fully returned. Sometimes sawdust can make them hang up.

If you're cutting thin material (1/4" or less, like laminate), it helps to back it up with a thicker sacrificial piece of plywood. If you don't use the plywood, you'll need to start the cut with the guard retracted so it doesn't snag the thin material and hang up the saw.

Never drop the saw or put it down hard. The foot can get bent or out of plumb with the blade. Or the blade arbor can get damaged.

Never use your knee as a sawhorse (that stunt is reserved for "professionals"). Flesh cuts faster than wood.

If the blade starts to bind, take your finger off the trigger, but hold tight to the saw so it doesn't run away.

Always know where your cord is, and keep it away from the blade at all times.

Never leave it plugged in when not in use. (chibblings like to touch dangerous toys)
 
Last edited:
OP
J

jdmstr

Banned
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
264
Location
USA
Most of the contractors here use dewalt.

Not to down grade the saw but it's a homeowner saw. We've had good luck with older skil toolS. I tend to go for contractor grade tools.

My advice. Watch kickback and know where your fingers are at all times.


yeah thats all i need right now is a basic saw if i end up getting good with it and using it alot id like to buy a nice wormdrive skilsaw or bosch!
 

RivennHewn

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
10,370
Location
PNW
Having a helper is a plus!

I mean "Don't try this at home" At least not without your safety glasses!
 

Attachments

  • Carpenters.jpg
    Carpenters.jpg
    133.3 KB · Views: 74
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

rick carpenter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,773
Location
Huntsville, East Texas
There's probably a few youtube videos on cutting laminate flooring. The main problem is that is is slick, therefore more difficult to get a straightedge to stay where you want. Here's what I've done. Use masking or painters tape over the cut and mark the tape. Make sure there's other tape strips for the saw shoe to ride on during the cut. Clamp a straightedge on and cut. If you can construct a straightedge where the saw actually rides on it rather than beside it, that's best. The clamp edge serves as the line up for the cut and helps reduce chipping. Then if you used masking tape take it off quickly.

No matter how you proceed, get a good blade and practice first.
 

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
..... just go get your self a nice magnesium housing study circuilar saw, hitachi, craftman pro series or Ridge. I find most skill saw purchased over at wall mart target are crappy quality, you really have to get their pro line of tools which I don't think they made too many to have it worth a while, they used to be the top tool maker, not now. But as long as you handle it, it feels study and balanced, not cheap feels. you are good to go.

use any straight edge for your guide, double side tape if you have to. masking tape if you can't filp it over to cut the other side. Cut slow and steady travel speed wise. other wise, other ppl have already advise you on the blades and depth and clamp your work piece and what not safety , common sense.

for the straight edge you have to add or subtract that distances between the saw blade and the edge of your circular saw to set the straight edge. dependent on which way you are cutting.

good luck.
 
Last edited:

Ozwelder

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
180
Location
Mackay, Queensland.Australia
First of all Always let the saw blade stop before setting it down.
Make sure the retracting blade guard works. If had one not retract and was damm lucky for it not to run over my foot as I had set it down thinking the guard had returned to safe position.

Always use the recommended tooth count for the job at hand.ie crosscut and rip cuts are different tooth counts

Don't force the saw.
Always use both hands when required.

Above all read the manual.These saws, misused cause emergency rooms a good deal of work.

Oz
 

rick carpenter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,773
Location
Huntsville, East Texas
First of all Always let the saw blade stop before setting it down.
Make sure the retracting blade guard works. If had one not retract and was damm lucky for it not to run over my foot as I had set it down thinking the guard had returned to safe position.

That happened to a good friend of mine, except it did run over his foot and he nearly lost two toes. They sewed them up and put pins in his toes. He was so proud to show us all at work what happened, taking every opportunity to let us see him rotating the pins "per doctor's orders".

OP, you're probably at the safest now you'll ever be with a saw, being new to it and therefore more leery of it than more seasoned users tend to be. You'll be extra careful. My friend has nearly pro experience with all power tools, and he took his saw for granted.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,125
Location
SE MI
If you already own some battery power tools, the little 5-6" trim saws are great additions and you can find them cheap on CL or eBay. There are always many "like new" saws for sale on CL.

Use carbide tip blades. They stay sharp for a very long time. A dull saw blade is a dangerous saw blade. The higher the tooth count, the smoother the finish cut.

Straight edge guides a great for long rips. There are a lot to choose from and you don't need to spend a lot of money. A carpenter's triangle works well as a guide for cross cuts.

If you are cutting laminate for a counter top, I don't think it is possible to come up with the "perfect" edge using a saw. Pros always cut their laminate with about 2" overhang on all sides, glue it to the sub-surface and then use a laminate trim router to do the finish trim. If you are going to laminate the face, do that first.
 

cheechi

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
4,384
Location
Triad, NC
The reason they are like new and cheap is most of them aren't very good if you're a pro. I have thought about selling mine several times. It is potentially lighter working overhead or vertical, but how often is that really an ongoing/repeated task? Plus the blades are more expensive per cut, with sales on the 7-1/4" being regular it can be 2-3x cost per cut.

The plus side is almost every one has a brake, just by virtue of being battery powered. They aren't all terrible, but when you have a good corded one it's hard to see the value in the cordless ones.
 

RCStocker

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
1,266
Location
Indiana, California, Australia
A laser is useless! It means nothing.
As long as you did not buy Black and Decker or a HF you should be fine.
Skill makes great saws even on the low end.
Make sure what your cutting will not bind and is supported.
For God's sake don't try to stop the blade with your fingers like I saw one person do years ago. Yes people are really that much of a dumb ***. LOL
 

Coach James

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2005
Messages
8,933
Location
Sandhills of North Carolina
OP, Amazon feedback on the 5680-02 is very good. My C-man circular saw is a low end saw and it has worked fine for me for many years. I went to a 36 tooth blade for easier cuts instead of the 24 tooth combo blades. Use a square to check the blade for square with the base plate on the saw, especially after doing bevel cuts.

Coach
 

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
I'll take amazon rating with a grain of salt maybe two, now a days.
 

Skeetobite

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Messages
706
Location
SE, MI
May sound silly, but leave the guards in place. I know several 8 and 9 fingered people, even a couple 6 fingered guys who thought they didn't need the guard because it would bind when they weren't working on a flat surface. My BIL dug a trench in his thigh because he took off the guard and didn't let the blade stop before setting it on his leg to move a piece of wood. Pure genius-

If you're afraid of it, don't use it. Respect it and it won't bite you.
 

GirchyGirchy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
9,840
Location
Central Indiana
I would go to a Lowe's or HD or whatever and handle the saws they have in stock. They're all pretty different and you might not be comfortable with one or like the switch on another. Plus check the quality of the saw base.

As another mentioned, the clamp on straightedges are worth the money. I have some Bona brand ones I really like. You don't need a laser, I'd personally never trust one anyway.

For cutting laminate, I'd try putting blue painter's tape on the top surface which your cut will run through, then cut it upside down. I've had good luck with tape preventing splintering.
 
OP
J

jdmstr

Banned
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
264
Location
USA
A laser is useless! It means nothing.
As long as you did not buy Black and Decker or a HF you should be fine.
Skill makes great saws even on the low end.
Make sure what your cutting will not bind and is supported.
For God's sake don't try to stop the blade with your fingers like I saw one person do years ago. Yes people are really that much of a dumb ***. LOL


"As long as you did not buy Black and Decker or a HF you should be fine"

these were my thoughts exactly when i bought the skilsaw at lowes.
 

terry603

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Messages
377
my take on a new saw, get one w/o the switch safety, I hate those things
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom