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Circular Saw rip fences / guides

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John McA

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Greetings,
Hoping this might become a repository of info on rip fences.
I was spending the morning searching for fences to fit my saws.
I have ripping job that a fence would be ideal - no luck finding anything.

Porter-Cable 314 fence part #53125
Porter-Cable 845 cordless 19.2 fence part #895510 - interchangeable with the 314? They look similar.
Both are discontinued. (with a mil, might be a great fabrication project!)


Milwaukee 2530-20 12v came without a fence: I did find one just now.
Milwaukee Rip Fence Kit, Model# 49-22-4146 - I hope this model fits.

Lesson learned - make sure you get a rip fence when you buy a circular saw.
 
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dogdog

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I never used those even when it comes with it...


I have been using these long edge cutting guides ... few version available... but I can cut pretty good accurate sized if I take time to setup...

I have these and used it with a Comb square and a tape measure, pencil, and extra clamp, sometimes a screw needed on the middle to push the sag.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-100-in-Cutting-Guide-99681/302346667

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Swanson-Tool-Company-Straight-Edges-8-33-ft-Metal-Ruler/1006469

https://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.html


On those wood working magazines, there are plans that you can even make one out of plywood... it's ez

or they have tracks for circular saw made of aluminum if you want to be spendy and fancy.
 
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Downwindtracker 2

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Most times the rip fence that came with the saw has gone missing. I've used a block of wood and a couple of c clamps or just a visegrip. Either to hold or by itself.
 
OP
J

John McA

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I use those quite a bit. Have an 8ft guide for panels too. This job involves ripping cedar 2x of various widths & lengths into strip stock. Set up takes too long and don't need too much accuracy. I can cut to a line drawn but don't want to draw lines for each cut. Plus both saws have the fittings for guides and well, OCD.
Thank you.
 
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gahrajmahal

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Cincinnati, Ohio
I made mine from a 3/4 x 4 x 8 sheet of hardwood plywood. The project didn’t use the whole sheet so I grabbed a straight 2 x 4 and ripped 6” wide from one side. Mark the factory edge of the rip guide with a magic marker, I just clamp it to whatever I want to cut a straight line. It is not so precious I cannot drill some Holes in it and screw it down. Recently it had some serious usage as a starter strip for a hardwood floor. It acted as the straight edge of the hallway and allowed us to keep the bedroom floor parallel to the hall centerline.
 
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RTM

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I have a 54" long clamp like dog dog showed, and I use it a lot. Bit of a pain to set up, but I can use it with either of my circ saws, a jig saw or router. You just need to compensate for the base of the saw/ router, and saw kerf before you attach.

After a few years of playing with this, I remembered a trick from back when I was helping dad, he had a long piece of 6" wide thin masonite, with a long plywood straightedge (now a fence) attached to one long edge. He then butted his saw, with his favorite blade on, against the fence, and ripped off the excess masonite. Thereafter, he just aligned the line he wants to cut to with the cut edge of the masonite, clamped it down, and away he went. By keeping the scrap side away from the fence, if he drifted off the fence it didn't matter.

I have since made a few of these, but the fence is in the center, and one side fits the jigsaw, the other one circ saw.
 
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Downwindtracker 2

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I have an 8' and 4', that I use on sheet goods like plywood, in place of a tracksaw . Beats man handling across a table saw. But that's not what he was after.
 
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Lennyzx11

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zendriver

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I've used a CS fence a few times with fairly crappy results - rough cuts, especially on thin materials. The small area where the fence meets the material not stable enough.

Might be why many new saws don't include them.

Unless sawing a very long distance, I'd use (or make) saw guides, as others have suggested.
 
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seber

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John McA said:
I use those quite a bit. Have an 8ft guide for panels too. This job involves ripping cedar 2x of various widths & lengths into strip stock. Set up takes too long and don't need too much accuracy. I can cut to a line drawn but don't want to draw lines for each cut. Plus both saws have the fittings for guides and well, OCD.
Thank you.
Click to expand...

Chalk line.
 
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Downwindtracker 2

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A chalk line still has to be measured, marked and snapped. We were putting up cedar siding, it's rustic anyway, and used a block as a fence to take off a bunch of the tongues off. Probably did a better job than free hand cutting, like you would with a chalk line.
 
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mc4life27

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RTM said:
Yep, that’s what I was trying to describe.
Click to expand...



This is the one I feel works the best out everything out there. Now I have worm style saws and most of the other ones that attach to the saws do t fit them. But I just got used to using the new Milwaukee worm style rear handle and a chalk line seem to work well for me for the lost part. If I need to have a perfect line the. I set up a table saw or build a table saw by taking a circular saw and mounting to a 3/4 or preferably thicker board and mount it upside down on saw horses and set up a fence if I’m out On a job site and have to use a table saw and a table saw is too much of a pta to bring out there.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
 
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PBCampbell

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I'm not grasping what the OP is trying to do, but I'll suggest a bandsaw with a decent fence for repetitive rip cuts, especially thin off cuts.
Those T fences for handheld circular saws are more of an assist for following a line when making rip cuts for construction (proper height headers, built up beams that need to sit under a plate, etc.).
 
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Sal Bandini

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Cutting guides (bought or home made) and this rip fence are 2 separate animals.

If you're trying to rip multiple 2x4 then setting the fence on the circular saw accessory is far easier than trying to measure, balance, clamp the straight edge.

#4 Downwindtracker2 nailed it. Make a quick guide from scrap wood and clamps if you can't find the accessory fence.
 
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RTM

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Sal has a good point.

Ripping a 2x4 for construction use is way different than cross cutting a 4’x8’ piece of plywood to fit a cabinet back. Both in accuracy need and in setup time to execute.
 
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John McA

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Pasadena
Thank you all,

The rip fence kit 49-22-4146 arrived. This is for my m12 fuel 5 in saw. I didn't harbor high expectations.
It is a very sloppy fit. I am not going to try to test without wrapping with some brass shim stock. There are holes that could be used for lengthening the guide parallel to the direction of cut by attaching a piece of hardwood.

As is, likely better suited for rough framing, repeating cross cuts of studs. Really needs to be set up so the guide is not allowed to get out of parallel which might be troublesome for an apprentice. Appears a speed square is more ideal. I would bet that a finish nail or two might be used. Ick.

Maybe use as template to create a better attachment. My design compulsive disorder is getting the better of me.

I need to source a ripping blade for the m12. Do they exist?


I have been using a beastly 18in band-saw for the previous jobs. Can't lug it around. Maybe a smaller band-saw is best.

Thanks again,
John McA
 
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