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Circular Saw Thoughts.....

EmptyWallet

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Yes, yes....getting a 77 would be ideal...an old USA made one at that. That'll happen, but I don't need something like that for the projects I have in mind.

I came across this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007QUZ16A

...is that TOO light? Would I get noticeably more kickback than a heavier saw? Seems most sidewinders are 10 pounds or so. Worms 13-15?

Anyway....I kinda like that saw I linked to. Thoughts?
 
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bat 501

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Its not a bad little saw. I have an older one myself. The next better grade 7 1/4" Dewalt is all most of the guys I know who do construction use. Worm drive saws have there place and that's on big framing jobs. Other then that they are a waste of space and money imo. I have had my saw for 10 years or so. It is my home saw not my job saw. Like I said for construction work the next one better is your best bet. But for at home that one is really good.
 

CWP1616L

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I was using my 77 today actually. I need a lot more practice doing 2 x 4 cross cuts and a 45* bevel. I can't seem to get them cut square across. :headscrat
 

bat 501

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I'd probably get this little Makita if I was in the market for a right side blade saw. It only weighs 8 pounds.

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=5740NB

I won't buy a Makita or a Milwaukee they both throw to much saw dust back in your face. It is mainly the housing design blocking the view of the blade from a stop where you won't get dust in your face. But still. And after 1 drop a laser line can't be trusted so I never trust them.
 

CWP1616L

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I won't buy a Makita or a Milwaukee they both throw to much saw dust back in your face.

That's funny because I got sprayed with saw dust all day today. With the blade on the left, all the saw dust goes in my face. I'd make one cut, sneeze, blow my nose, and repeat. :D
 

toolz

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After using a friend's 6 1/2 inch cordless (DeWalt) on a deck project, I discovered that for me, the smaller size and light weight of a compact saw is a real advantage over the Skil sidewinders I've used for years. I'm not framing houses, just have occasional use. Although I would like an electric brake, I have settled for the Ridgid Fuego 6 1/2 in saw. This is a corded saw - I already deal with too many different battery/charger setups.

There's no penalty with the 3/8" smaller blade radius, still cuts a 4x4 with two passes, and is easier handling, and nowadays, plenty of 6 1/2" blades are available, at lower cost than the 7 1/4". This saw turns faster than the typical 7 1/4", and cuts like butter. I like mine.

Had to get it online, this saw does not seem to be stocked anyplace.
 

CWP1616L

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I might even be tempted to get the Skil HD5687 because it's got a handle just like on the 77. The 77 worm drive handle is very comfortable to hold.

http://www.skiltools.com/Tools/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?model=HD5687M-01

HD5687-01-RI.jpg
 
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EmptyWallet

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Its not a bad little saw. I have an older one myself. The next better grade 7 1/4" Dewalt is all most of the guys I know who do construction use. Worm drive saws have there place and that's on big framing jobs. Other then that they are a waste of space and money imo. I have had my saw for 10 years or so. It is my home saw not my job saw. Like I said for construction work the next one better is your best bet. But for at home that one is really good.

Which one is a step up from that one I linked? It appears to have better specs than any other saw Dewalt makes in its class.

If there's something better I'd like to check it out!

Edit - Are you referring to the 364 or 384?
 
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sberry

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The cord will rot off any semi trade worthy brand saw a guy buys. I will likely never wear out the MJakita I bought from the local lumber yard 20 yrs ago, paif 100 then, bought it the day I need it, its ok at the rate I use it. If I was a framer or pole barn builder I would look around and find just the right saw, for a hobby guy features are great.

I have not looked at as Walmart just for giggles and see what the saw line is? I havnt used much of that type of thing as like most of you when I bought the saw I wanted to be done, other options were not good and its not a hi duty cycle deal but had ruined a cheaper one etc and at the time had a real job for it. It has earned it.

Only reason I asked was real comparision. The 4 1/2 grinder was a different thing to me. Its my framing saw. Buying one saw it made sense, was easy, but I have used a parade of grinders, it was an on going expense. Especially 10 yrs ago. They all moved to China anyway, I was not happy with the fact the vast drill set I had to buy was China but it would have been another thing had I not had multiple issues with grinders and the HF were not reliable.

As it turns out it looks like during a "merger" they still wanted to make this tool for the home line but didnt want to re-design stock etc all this, go to all the effort for a few sales down on the bottom so they re-badged the existing product and only made minor changes, kept the power level perfect so a guy coudnt overload it in an instant. The head will get a little warm if you run it loong enought and hard enough but the motor doesnt and a man can only do this for so long anyway.

Over the years have overloaded several but never one of these and by default in looking for cheaper they may have got better with brushes and the plastic cord is 10X fukkin better than the rubber one that come on the industrial model.

The reason I am fond of this grinder is not that its a Black and Decker,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, but that it is the clone improved over its industrial original. The HUGE bonus is that its only 30 off the shelf, I give Walmarts and the China 30 instead of 130 for the same thing that works about half as well. HOW IS THAT for shopping American by using walmart,,, 100$ stays in USA. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How is that for shopping LOCAL ,,, I keep 100$ hahahahaha
 

sberry

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How about this logic,,, Miwaukee pos made in China at Home Depot, big motor 130$,,, B&D at Walmart 30$,, a grinder I ran side by side, like better anyway,,, save 100$ and pass it around several of the rest of my local stores? Pass 20 to church, 20 to the grocery, 20 to the gas etc everyone makes out cause you bought a china grinder that in the ed worked as well and twice as long and didnt have to replace a 20$ cord a couple times along the way. How stupid is that?

I wanted to copy a clip but didnt,,, one guy here says,,, 15$ digital mic from HF perfect at 50X,,, same as 250$ B/S that needs calibration. Both tools 20X better than the brain using it, ha
 
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bat 501

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That's funny because I got sprayed with saw dust all day today. With the blade on the left, all the saw dust goes in my face. I'd make one cut, sneeze, blow my nose, and repeat. :D

I have run a few left side blades. Its all about what brand it is and where you have to hold your head to see the blade. I only use left side blades for a huge framing job. The saws are way to heavy for normal use.
 

Mr Ratchet

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For power tools, you can't go wrong with Bosch, Hitachi, Makita, or Milwaukee.

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=CS10

http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=11,50&p=232

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=5007MG

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6390-21

I have the Milwaukee Tilt Lok myself and it's cut miles of board feet from 6x6 treated lumber to 1/4" Ply/OSB. I cut straighter with this saw than any other circular saw that I've had in my hands. I also like having the option of adjusting the position of the back handle. Since I'm right handed, I like the blade on the right side of the saw.
Get out and hold a bunch in your own hands and see which one you like the best.
 

wafrederick

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I bought a Skil,don't use it anymore.To heavy putting a strain on me.The other was it came with no carbide tipped blade.I had to buy a carbide tipped blade seperately.I bought a Milwaukee,no complaints.Light and cuts through anything like butter.My Milwaukee has the tilt lock handle too.Bosch,the company is screwy and I have been hearing cuts that are going to happen lately Bosch is going to do.
 

demographic

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I've got two Hitachi saws and have used quite a few other saws over the years and have to say that I've not used one (apart from any cordless circular saws) that was noticeably bad yet.

Unlike many tools where there's huge differences I find that just about any circular saw manages fine.
That goes for Hitachi, Makita, De-Walt, Skil, Bosch and whatever else I've used.
Never used any left side blades or any worm drives wither cos they just don't seem to exist in the UK.

The ones with 190mm blades are my favourite as its a nice handy size and the ones with the 230 or so size blades are a bit numb.


One problem they all have is the power cords are always too short at about 10 foot long. I'm often cutting 8 foot boards up two or three feet on trestles and it irritates the **** out of me when the plug has to lift off the ground to comlete the cuts.
No idea why they all make the cords too short but they do.
 

bat 501

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For power tools, you can't go wrong with Bosch, Hitachi, Makita, or Milwaukee.

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=CS10

http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=11,50&p=232

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=5007MG

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6390-21

I have the Milwaukee Tilt Lok myself and it's cut miles of board feet from 6x6 treated lumber to 1/4" Ply/OSB. I cut straighter with this saw than any other circular saw that I've had in my hands. I also like having the option of adjusting the position of the back handle. Since I'm right handed, I like the blade on the right side of the saw.
Get out and hold a bunch in your own hands and see which one you like the best.

All of them brands have their really good power tools. And I agree everyone should hold different saws before buying one. But in my profession Dewalt is by far and away the over all better brand of tool. Milwaukee was at one time. But they got passed by Dewalt and some others on most tools.
 
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woody 73

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I have seversal saws but the one that I do not own is the Bosch CS20 around $125.00 dollars; darn thing looks easy to hang on rafters and super easy to replace a cut cord.

I see good used saws on CL from time to time keep your eyes open for a good deal.
 

Monte

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this is a pretty nice saw:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/pcRVb5seKVo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

CWP1616L

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What is a rear pivot on a circular saw?

That means the depth adjustment pivots on the rear of the shoe. A Skil 77 pivots on the front of the shoe. For a side winder that has a top mounted handle, a rear pivot is actually a good thing because it drops the handle down as you raise the depth.
 

bat 501

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That means the depth adjustment pivots on the rear of the shoe. A Skil 77 pivots on the front of the shoe. For a side winder that has a top mounted handle, a rear pivot is actually a good thing because it drops the handle down as you raise the depth.

Imo a rear pivot is always better then a front pivot. It gives you better control of adjustments. and more ease of adjustment.
 

theknurl

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I was using my 77 today actually. I need a lot more practice doing 2 x 4 cross cuts and a 45* bevel. I can't seem to get them cut square across. :headscrat

you need to learn to do "drop in cuts".....
its easy with a worm drive......but you need to lock the moving guard back with a wooden wedge, go to any construction site

put a 10ga cord on your 77......
they are notorious for frying armatures because of the light gauge stock cord
my framing partner had 4, 77s so one would work:lol:
my Milwaukee had a 100' 10 ga cord on it
and i had my own 210 box too, on 135' of 4 wire 8 gauge, i came right off the temp pole

you start cutting stair treads out of 1 1/8" CDX with your whiz bang new saw......it won't make it 'til lunchtime
my old Milwaukee worm will swing a cutdown 9" blade......yes, i moved the guard screws
 

KnurledNut

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OP, ive had problems with the dewalt when ripping long cuts. The blade tended to walk. I would get a makita if i needed a sidewinder. Absolutely hate milwaukees design even though it is powerful. I personally use a mag77 on a regular basis and love it.
 
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EmptyWallet

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OP, ive had problems with the dewalt when ripping long cuts. The blade tended to walk. I would get a makita if i needed a sidewinder. Absolutely hate milwaukees design even though it is powerful. I personally use a mag77 on a regular basis and love it.

What model was that? If all the saws are pretty much the same these days, what are the differences in them? The adjustments?
 

KnurledNut

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both the style you posted and the composite shoe as well. a couple nice features on the composite i liked: detents at 22.5 and 45, bevels to 56 degrees IIRC, and an electric brake. I would avoid any saw that has a plastic lever for the shoe depth adjustment. And i really dont think you'll like the rear pivot once you use it. Have you looked at the makita 5007mag? I used one for years and it was user friendly and tough.
 
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EmptyWallet

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both the style you posted and the composite shoe as well. a couple nice features on the composite i liked: detents at 22.5 and 45, bevels to 56 degrees IIRC, and an electric brake. I would avoid any saw that has a plastic lever for the shoe depth adjustment. And i really dont think you'll like the rear pivot once you use it. Have you looked at the makita 5007mag? I used one for years and it was user friendly and tough.

This one?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RQ68V2
 

CWP1616L

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you need to learn to do "drop in cuts".....
its easy with a worm drive......but you need to lock the moving guard back with a wooden wedge, go to any construction site

put a 10ga cord on your 77......
they are notorious for frying armatures because of the light gauge stock cord
my framing partner had 4, 77s so one would work:lol:
my Milwaukee had a 100' 10 ga cord on it
and i had my own 210 box too, on 135' of 4 wire 8 gauge, i came right off the temp pole

you start cutting stair treads out of 1 1/8" CDX with your whiz bang new saw......it won't make it 'til lunchtime
my old Milwaukee worm will swing a cutdown 9" blade......yes, i moved the guard screws


Okay, now you got me worried. My extension cord is a 100 ft. long and it's either a 14 gage or a 16 gage. Am I putting my saw at risk? :Twitch:
 

Mr Ratchet

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All of them brands have their really good power tools. And I agree everyone should hold different saws before buying one. But in my profession Dewalt is by far and away the over all better brand of tool. Milwaukee was at one time. But they got passed by Dewalt and some others on most tools.

Not too many builders in may area using Dewalt any more. Most use either the Makita or Milwaukee for the most part with some Bosh and Hitachi saws here and there. Dewalt makes good power tools, just not as good as the four other brands I listed.
 

sberry

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Depends on how hard and long you are going to use it. You can use 100 of 14 ok and even a 16 to zing a board off, if I was setting up to frame a house it may be another matter.
 

CWP1616L

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I'm assuming the reason why is because the saw has to pull more amps through a 14 gage cord than it does a 10 gage cord to do the same amount of work. I'm assuming the extra amps being pulled creates more heat.
 

bat 501

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I agree with Sberry. If you only cut 1 or 2 boards at a time the small ones will be fine. But if you are going to be cutting for longer then a few mins. You need the bigger gauge.
 

jackfork

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I have the older model of the DeWalt you listed and a Makita 5007MG. Can't say I favor one over the other. Anymore I use a DeWalt 6.5" battery powered saw for general cutting. Works very well for ripping and crosscutting and don't have to worry about dragging a cord behind, and better yet I don't have to worry about finding an outlet.
 

tcpoob

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is cordless circular saw too light duty for you? some of the lithium ion ones are pretty nice. but mostly 6 1/2 inch. many brands to choose from, dewalt, hitachi ...
 
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