CL etiquette with overpriced items

[alex71]

I do the same thing, and stick to it, with very few exceptions. I'll respond to emails with a number, or call. Every once in a while I will respond to an email without a phone number if I'm certain that a person and not a spambot wrote it.

Anytime I sell something I put "email me your name and telephone number and I will call you"

90% of the ************ time wasters have been cut out because they are too scared to talk on the phone.

Now I never have to deal with these asshats sending endless amounts of emails then 3 days later asking me if I will take 30% of what it is listed for.

If I lose a few potential buyers in the process no sweat off my back.

 

[Too_Many_Tools]

For buyers especially, distance and time can be important considerations. Driving 100 miles for a common item to save $10 over new is foolish when you can have Amazon deliver it brand new for a few bucks more than the sale price. As a seller, I don't discount for buyer's driving distance as that's part of their value equation, not mine and I certainly am not going to meet someone a midpoint 20 miles away because that's a waste of my time and gas.

Every sale transaction is unique and though we do let our emotions get in the way of pure economic transactions, that's all part of being human.

THERE IS ALWAYS ANOTHER DEAL OUT THERE.

I agree...which is why I always calculate distance and time into my final buying price BEFORE ever contacting the seller..if the seller is too high to begin with...I ignore the add....as most of the buying public will.

If I wanted to buy something at retail, I can use Amazon...that gives me a warranty and return priviledges.

And I agree with this...

THERE IS ALWAYS ANOTHER DEAL OUT THERE.

Sellers really need to remember this....buyers can check prices with a few clicks..so posting a crazy price is very stupid.

Posting cheap **** at expensive prices gets you blacklisted quickly on Craigslist/Ebay....buyers won't even look at your ads once they figure out that you are a flipper looking for a score.

I find that pawn shops are using Ebay for their pricing guide...I laugh at them and point out that Ebay will take a significant percentage to sell...so will they take the same discount?

You know the answer....

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Call me old fashioned but... the time for negotiating is when the buyer and the seller are standing vace to face and the cash is immediately available. I would have blown you off too.

Agreed... I cant see how you can make a valid/honest offer if you havent even seen it. Lets say I find a huge SnapOn KRL which is listed for $250...get there and is SHINY New, as if its never been used...I pay the 250, and laugh all the way home...now if I get there and this is dented, thats busted, but nothing major, I can make an offer which would factor those conditions in...so when the dust settles on my end, I still am ahead. I tend to not drive out of my way for anything i'm interested in unless its well worth my time.

I know I'm in the minority, especially here on GJ, but I really hate CL. I don't buy or sell anything from there. The search system ***** because sellers don't list items properly so you have to scroll through a bunch of useless **** to fing what you want.

I prefer Ebay, and have never had an issue.

Agree too, but its virtually impossible to buy or sell a tractor implement or large toolbox off eBay...local only puts it in the same category as CL, but with crazy fees. Much more audience on eBay for the niche items which is great as a seller...as a buyer it means more selection at higher prices.

 

[kythri]

Call me old fashioned but... the time for negotiating is when the buyer and the seller are standing vace to face and the cash is immediately available. I would have blown you off too.

See, this is one I disagree with.

ESPECIALLY if the seller says "or best offer" in the description. I usually have a reasonable idea of what something is worth, and if the seller has that "OBO" and the price is a bit high? I'm not going to waste MY time driving to them to negotiate and be shot down. I'll email or call them and ask them if they'd accept what I'm willing to pay for it.

If they say no, they say no, and they can try to hawk it to someone else that has more money and time to waste than me.

 

[NHBandit]

See, this is one I disagree with.

ESPECIALLY if the seller says "or best offer" in the description. I usually have a reasonable idea of what something is worth, and if the seller has that "OBO" and the price is a bit high? I'm not going to waste MY time driving to them to negotiate and be shot down. I'll email or call them and ask them if they'd accept what I'm willing to pay for it.

If they say no, they say no, and they can try to hawk it to someone else that has more money and time to waste than me.

My point is as Spudland Dave pointed out, condition varies greatly and descriptions are always going to make something sound better than it really is. How can you make an educated offer before you look at the item ? I did automotive swap meets for many years as a vendor as well as a buyer and there was always an unwritten rule that making an offer is akin to presenting someone with a contract. If they accept it's a DONE deal. The only thing left to do is pay up. Offering X amount of dollars and then changing your mind or walking away to "think about it some more" is in bad taste to alot of us. When you say "will you take 50 bucks" for example that indicates to me that you have the 50, don't need to borrow it, consult the wife, or any other bs excuse. It means you are prepared to hand over the cash. How can you do that over the phone without seeing the item ? What if your phone offer is accepted ? Does that obligate the seller to hold it for you ? Alot of guys are just blowing smoke & never show up. Ever hear the saying "Cash talks & ******** walks" ? Words to live by my friend and promisses over the phone don't cut it.