Clamp meter for household/automotive

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I thought i'd ask here instead of in the general portion of the forum. Forgive me if it's in the wrong area.
I'm looking for a clamp meter, specifically from fluke. I'd like it to measure both AC and DC amps. True RMS, continuity and voltage. DC amps for automotive and AC amps for both automotive and residential. I was looking at the 325, 374, 375, 376 and as i keep going up in price and features i'm unsure really what i'd need. I know automotive can get up there amp wise depending on the vehicle, residential i'd assume it wouldn't be over 200 amps? I don't want a meter that will read WAY over what i'd see in residential but also don't want something that won't have the resolution I need. Flukes website doesn't always list specs well. Thanks!

 

[Max]

It’s a function of what resolution and accuracy that you need. As an example, use the Fluke 325. It has two DC current ranges - 40.00A and 400.0A. Fluke is telling you that on 40 A range you get resolution to .01A (10 mA) and on the 400 A range you’re getting resolution of .1A (100 mA). If you need resolution better than that then the 325 is not your meter.

Fluke specifies accuracy for DC current at 2% +/- 5 digits. It isn’t explicitly stated, but by 5 digits they mean the 5 least significant digits. So let’s pick an example - you are using your 325 to measure exactly 35A. Your meter is in spec if it reads between 35.75 A ((35 x 1.02) +.05) and 34.25A ((35 x .98) - .05). On the 400 A range the math is similar, except in that case it would be +/- .5A.

The other range’s specifications work similarly.

It would help if you could explain some specific things you’d use the meter for. As an example, on an ICE car the highest current draw is the starter motor. While in a few cases it might be nice to measure the actual starter current, in most cases I’d be looking at voltage drops from the battery to the starter.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Adding to the above, do you need/want to measure current on larger conductors like a branch feeder or service entrance? those are sometimes very hard to get a closed jaw clamp around. if that is the case youre gonna want a meter that has the flexible current loop attachment.... i have a 381 that has such accessory which makes it easy to get around larger conductors...... its a great meter but probably too much money for a home hobbyist..

 

[Max]

Adding to the above, do you need/want to measure current on larger conductors like a branch feeder or service entrance? those are sometimes very hard to get a closed jaw clamp around. if that is the case youre gonna want a meter that has the flexible current loop attachment.... i have a 381.... its a great meter but probably too much money for a home hobbyist..

The OP had a lot of questions through PMs. He bought a 374.

 

[BreeStephany]

I have a Fluke 376 with the i2500 iFlex 2500A auxiliary current clamp that I really like for troubleshooting in cramped spaces, for dragging into attics and for measuring current on anything over 400A where +/- 2% accuracy is acceptable.

My go-to DMM for industrial controls and for automotive is my Fluke 289, but it, all the lead sets, magnetic strap, i410 current clamp and 'pelican' case can be a bit much to carry into cramped spaces and I love my 376 for this. I also really like the 376 for working in switch gear as its small size fits where I need it.

Just my two cents.

 

[Wrench97]

I have the 325, good meter only issue is me remembering to switch it to DC for voltage and amp readings since I mostly use it in automotive.