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Clausing 1640 Drill Press Good Idea?

CreateStage

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I'm looking at picking up a Clausing 1640 for $300 and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with these. I'm looking to do strictly steel drilling and I'm wondering if it will go low enough RPM's to take care of my needs long term or possibly what I can do to upgrade this machine? I'm pretty sure it's running on a 120v motor. Looks like its in great shape. Any info would be wonderful! Thank you!
 
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loganb

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A 1640 should go slow enough, it's a adjust the belt to change speed style vs the more popular and nicer to use Reeves style with the hand wheel on the front you crank to adjust speed. Speeds should be printed on it, but the Clausings were really marketed as a metal working, heavier drill press so likely will do what you need. Make sure you check the motor plate, especially on the variable speed machines it's very common for them to be 3 phase. Not hard to fix with a motor or vfd, but make sure you check.

If you do a lot of the same or similar hole sizes thru similar material, probably will do great. If you make big changes in bits or frequently bounce between small holes in aluminum to big holes in steel you'll tire if the belt changes and be looking for one with faster adjustment of spindle speed. If you do lots of holes in thicker material there is also an option for a power downfeed...pretty handy!
 
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I was just sent an updated image of the spindle speeds and apparently it goes down to 400 - 260 RPM's with belt E. Is this a variable speed drill press? How do I achieve this? With a belt gear change? Thanks!
 

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CreateStage

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A 1640 should go slow enough, it's a adjust the belt to change speed style vs the more popular and nicer to use Reeves style with the hand wheel on the front you crank to adjust speed. Speeds should be printed on it, but the Clausings were really marketed as a metal working, heavier drill press so likely will do what you need. Make sure you check the motor plate, especially on the variable speed machines it's very common for them to be 3 phase. Not hard to fix with a motor or vfd, but make sure you check.

If you do a lot of the same or similar hole sizes thru similar material, probably will do great. If you make big changes in bits or frequently bounce between small holes in aluminum to big holes in steel you'll tire if the belt changes and be looking for one with faster adjustment of spindle speed. If you do lots of holes in thicker material there is also an option for a power downfeed...pretty handy!
I'm pretty sure its a 1 Phase 120v. In that case am I missing out on the possibilities of utilizing a VFD with a 3 phase? So would I upgrade to a 3 phase? Or is there a VFD option for 120v? Thank you
 

Ricky Joe

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You don’t need vfd with 120. I just sold the exact same drill press for $400. If yours is not abused, $300 is a great deal. They are good presses.
 

loganb

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Yes, it appears to have a standard plug so no need for a vfd. Speed changes are done with the flip up door on the side. Looks very clean and no arc of shame, would have no problem buying it if it was in my area for that price.
 
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Ahh, Thank you very much for the info. I just missed an auction for one that went for $230. So agreed this is a good deal.
 

catalytic

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Great deal. I have one because I believe it's the best 15" drill press ever made (and I have used them all). I have the pulley belt change version, since Reeve's drives can get squeeky or stuck on one place after they are run a lot, but pulleys last forever. On these machines, the table raising crank was a factory option. I have one and I'd hate to be without it. I also have the slow-speed version, but I almost never use the slowest speeds (not recommended by speed/feed charts unless you're drilling some already hardened steel or something unusual).

BTW, when you're reading the speed chart, yours goes down to 400RPM with the standard 1800 RPM motor. 260 RPM still speed is only if you have the slow-speed 1200 RPM motor, which was a factory option (check!).
 
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Great deal. I have one because I believe it's the best 15" drill press ever made (and I have used them all). I have the pulley belt change version, since Reeve's drives can get squeeky or stuck on one place after they are run a lot, but pulleys last forever. On these machines, the table raising crank was a factory option. I have one and I'd hate to be without it. I also have the slow-speed version, but I almost never use the slowest speeds (not recommended by speed/feed charts unless you're drilling some already hardened steel or something unusual).

BTW, when you're reading the speed chart, yours goes down to 400RPM with the standard 1800 RPM motor. 260 RPM still speed is only if you have the slow-speed 1200 RPM motor, which was a factory option (check!).
The motor says 1725 RPM so I guess its the higher version That's interesting about you not using the lower powered press unless your drilling in something rare and extra hardened. I guess I just wanted the most flexibility but I suppose I could swap the motor at some point. I really just need to be up and running!
 

catalytic

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Bigger drill bit & harder material = slower speed.

Take a look:

Your 400 RPM can do up to:

1.5" dia. drill in Alu
1.25" dia. drill in 'regular' mild steel like 1018
0.75" dia. drill in cast iron
0.5" dia. drill in stainless

Most of these are more than you will ever need, and that is just if you abide by the recommended speeds in a machinist handbook (you could exceed it by a bit and be fine). Most people have problems because they don't know drilling technique. Clamp work very securely, then Drill for 1 second, lift and wipe with coolant oil, then drill 1 sec, repeat until you hit your depth. I have seen untrained people just hold pressure on until they're through...good way to ruin your tooling and your workpiece.

The only time I ever used the slowest speed was when I had to drill through 100 year old mill scale (like super hardened steel) on some railroad plates.
 
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CreateStage

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Bigger drill bit & harder material = slower speed.

Take a look:

Your 400 RPM can do up to:

1.5" dia. drill in Alu
1.25" dia. drill in 'regular' mild steel like 1018
0.75" dia. drill in cast iron
0.5" dia. drill in stainless

Most of these are more than you will ever need, and that is just if you abide by the recommended speeds in a machinist handbook (you could exceed it by a bit and be fine). Most people have problems because they don't know drilling technique. Clamp work very securely, then Drill for 1 second, lift and wipe with coolant oil, then drill 1 sec, repeat until you hit your depth. I have seen untrained people just hold pressure on until they're through...good way to ruin your tooling and your workpiece.

The only time I ever used the slowest speed was when I had to drill through 100 year old mill scale (like super hardened steel) on some railroad plates.
Wow!

That pretty much clears it all up for me. You have literally answered all of my concerns related to the Drill Press Hunt.

Thank you Cat!
 

Lou's Garage

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I have a Clausing 1810 that's as old as I am (1952). I could never justify (or afford) buying a drill press like this brand new and it's always a pleasure to use. It was removed from commercial service in the 70's, converted to 110V and rebuilt by the machinist who had used it in the shop. I acquired it in 2003, cleaned and refurbished it twice since then. Most recently I replaced the arbor and chuck. Now it runs true and smooth.

Lou Manglass
 
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CreateStage

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Things have changed. The seller wants $400, it comes with nothing else and its an hour drive away. Not that I'm not up for a drive for a great deal/piece but considering its age, I have no idea what shape its in. It looks clean but that is only a plus not a guarantee I wont need to dump a bunch of money it it. There is a USA Skill that comes with many bits and a stand on wheels.. $450 bla and then a Wilton Model 3816 for $600, comes with a bad as vice and I know its in tip top shape. Thoughts? Thanks Yawl!
 
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RoninB4

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I've worked in machine shops for decades and have used several of these. I currently have a mill, surface grinder, jig borer, and two cutter grinders in my basement but no drill press. I'd jump on this one with no hesitation. Worried about dumping a lot of money into this? Those things can run for decades with no problems. Check for noisy bearings, noisy motor, run-out at the spindle and chuck, belt in ok condition. No other obvious signs of wear? Buy it.
 

larry4406

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I have a 1640 Clausing. I think I paid $250 for it 10 years ago. It’s got arc of shame, had bad spindle bearings, and came with a Dayton 1725 motor (I’m assuming it had originally been a 3-phase unit and converted).

Yours looks very good at $400. Even has the nice push on/off switch. Mine has a rigged single pole light switch 🤷‍♂️.

I wish mine could spin slower. I have it at slowest pulley setting. I did a project where I was using 3 and 4” hole saws in steel plate. Seemed too fast at the saw tooth periphery.

Go for it. You won’t find anything near close at $400.

One day I would like to VFD mine with a 3-phase motor. One day….
 
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Ok my Friends, I will be picking up around 8pm tonight and will report back with some pictures. Thank you all for your guidance. This has been a warm welcome to garagejournal.com!
 
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I'm impressed and thankful about this drill press.

Runs smooth and quite, belt is in very decent shape. The only issue is some old cracked wiring I will fix first thing.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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catalytic

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^^ Can't believe it waited 4 days for you. Looks like it will clean up very well. Clausing still supports the machine, though they ask top dollar for replacement parts. People part them out on Ebay with some frequency, but OWWM.org people is the first place I would try if I needed parts--those guys helped me out with a few things for my drill

Keep an eye out for Clausing the table raising crank/mechanism---I have seen a few come up for sale. They were a factory option and nice to have. I also have an extra table for mine, which is convenient to swing into place without having to disassemble what you setup on your main table.

Your drill's column may be 2-63/64" instead of 3" like Delta and many others. That means that other MFG's accessories may be loose/not fit on your column. This is true of some Clausings like yours, and I'm not sure if it's true of all of them. Just something to know. I'm not sure if Atlas (precursor to Clausing) did this as well---maybe their table raising systems might fit?

Clausing also sold a very cool hydraulic powerfeed unit for your drill that sits on top of the drill head, and an air-over-oil piston pushes down on the spindle when activated (there is a bearing between the spindle and the piston). It adds a foot of height and you would need hydraulic rigging, but it's a really cool system, and actually has some nice advantages over standard mechanical powerfeeds (like no gears to break if things get stuck). I have *almost* bought one of these for my drill twice, before coming back to reality and realizing I pretty much never have to drill more than 10 identical holes in a workpiece.

The other thing to have is a nice drill press vise. You want something that cannot spin when the drill snags (it will almost every time you punch through a through-hole). Please don't use your left hand as a drill vise---it will work until you start drilling something sharp, and on that day it will decide to become a spinning sword of death. What you want it a:

-Heinrich 13-WH Drill Vise https://www.heinrichco.com/sdvise.htm (has a safety bar that you can quick-lock down to your Clausing's table, or just rest the safety bar against the column so it can't twist). I have this on my drill and also in the 'real' machine shop. We have used everything, and they are the best.

-Wahlstrom/Eagle/AMF Float Lock vise. https://www.penntoolco.com/wahlstrom-float-lock-drill-press-vises/ Very similar to Heinrich and have been made since the 60's so they come up used. Some of the newer ones have quick release, which I would definitely want if I went this route.

-Lassy drill vise. https://www.lassytools.com/slidevises.html Even more $$ and rarely come up used, and heavy. Different from the above and very nice if you like that approach. Personally, I don't want an X/Y table on my drill press, because I prefer to do layout on the workpiece, center-punch where I want to drill the hold, then wiggle the vise around until it's centered on the drill bit (and also let the drill start and move it the last few thou before I lock down the vise). But if you want to drill a bunch of holes in a row like on a milling machine, maybe Lassy is for you.

Or a machinist holddown set if you have more patience would work fine. At very least, set up a bolt or something through one of your Clausing table slots that your vice will stop against instead of spinning.
 

larry4406

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Nice score!

Here are some manuals I found when I had to replace the spindle bearings in mine. The manuals are serial number specific.

Also a link to another thread of a 1640 with the variable speed drive.
 

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Cleave

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Very nice drill press.
The dp vise is essential hardware, as is a set of hold down clamps. You can make a set yourself by bending some 3/8" or 1/2" steel bar (round or square) into a tight U shape, maybe 3-4 inches long. Size the slot it forms to accept the size bolt that fits your table. Then you place the open end on your workpiece, with the clamping bolt in the slot, and stack washers or such under the other end to about match the height of the workpiece. Tighten up two of them and you've got it. Just don't drill into the table. Get a selection of washers, nuts, and bolt lengths to handle your regular tasks, right there on a rack by the DP and the wrench to tighten it.
 

RoninB4

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Fine looking DP you got there, congratulations. Good advice from others about having a vise for the DP, the temptation to use just your hand will end in a bad laceration and likely a trip to the ER so don't do it.

As for which vise, well that's something that I always found dependent upon the task. Most times I liked using the locking slide type for security but sometimes it was just cumbersome. You'll have to find out how you like to work and everybody has a preference. I have a few different sizes for when I drill in the Bridgeport.

Congratulations on purchasing a machine tool that ANY respectable machine shop would want/have.
 
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CreateStage

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Agreed about the vice! I got this guy for free as it was broken and was able to fix it up enough to be stable (I think). I will have to rebuild but damn those other options are brilliant! The whole reason I got a DP was to have take the time and get the accuracy, so I will be holding nothing with my hand other than the feed handle and maybe a beer! lol

I also fixed that nasty electrical. I should have watched what wires were where instead of just cutting that death trap out but now I'm pretty confident on how to wire up a 1 phase motor with a switch!
 

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catalytic

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I also fixed that nasty electrical. I should have watched what wires were where instead of just cutting that death trap out but now I'm pretty confident on how to wire up a 1 phase motor with a switch!
You should have a cord grip/strain relief where the cords go into the motor. The hole in the motor where they enter will be threaded to accept this (NPT-thread! if you measure, check against an NPT spec, as the nominal sizes are very different from the measured ones). It will be 1/2" NPT or 3/4" NPT.

In your case, when you have 2 differently sized cords emerging from the same knockout, a standard approach on many machines is to use one of these in 1/2" NPT or 3/4" NPT (whichever matches your knockout hole). It can grip both cords at once.
 
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RoninB4

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A good suggestion posted above. Over time/vibration the sheath and wire insulation will eventually get a slit rubbed through (from the sheet metal exit) and you'll wish you'd done this years ago. Chance of letting the magic smoke out when there's a short and damage/hazard can occur.

Vise looks ok, if it's good enough for you then it's good enough. I may be wrong but is the DP top heavy and in risk of getting pitched over while loading work on the table? Plans to anchor the DP to the floor or plywood for a larger footprint?
 
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CreateStage

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A good suggestion posted above. Over time/vibration the sheath and wire insulation will eventually get a slit rubbed through (from the sheet metal exit) and you'll wish you'd done this years ago. Chance of letting the magic smoke out when there's a short and damage/hazard can occur.

Vise looks ok, if it's good enough for you then it's good enough. I may be wrong but is the DP top heavy and in risk of getting pitched over while loading work on the table? Plans to anchor the DP to the floor or plywood for a larger footprint?
It's technically top heavy but very secure. Once I have it in its semi permeant spot here in this studio I will bolt it to the ground. Good eye!
 
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CreateStage

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You should have a cord grip/strain relief where the cords go into the motor. The hole in the motor where they enter will be threaded to accept this (NPT-thread! if you measure, check against an NPT spec, as the nominal sizes are very different from the measured ones). It will be 1/2" NPT or 3/4" NPT.

In your case, when you have 2 differently sized cords emerging from the same knockout, a standard approach on many machines is to use one of these in 1/2" NPT or 3/4" NPT (whichever matches your knockout hole). It can grip both cords at once.
Ill have to rig something up to take the strain off. I could re-wire it and add your suggestion but I will definitely take it into consideration. I'm not sure when but I would like to look into a 3 phase motor option to where I could control the voltage/speed. It would be nice to go lower than 400 RPM's.
 

Toolmaker51

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RPM's not huge issue, get a spare pulley of different diameter to compensate. If you know a 'cheenist, he could re-pattern the stepped pulley and achieve the desired reductions. Literally, just a block of aluminum away.
Increases, not so much. Round column drills are not fitted with superior bearings they don't need.
 
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