Clausing 20 Variable speed pulley removal

[Crank1]

I bought this really nice Clausing 20 variable speed drill press off an industrial auction site. $180 after fees. It came equipped with a 460v motor, which is being replaced by a Baldor M3607 1.5 horse motor.

I’ve looked and looked and really can’t find any guidance on pulling a variable speed pulley, so I am here hoping for a little assistance. Anyone find this? I did already loosen the setscrew on the key.

Thanks

 

[OccupantRJ]

I would first look at a parts diagram to make sure the one set screw is all that retains it. Soak with penetrant near the motor face by standing the motor on end so the penetrant can make it's way down into the joint, which is likely about 4" long. Patience and soaking is required. These pulleys are expensive. Soaking and patience is required. Two pry bars near the motor end may help. A puller is likely to break the pulley if much force is used. I have gone as far as drilling and tapping two holes in the face of the hub to pull some off near the center, if there is enough excess material there. How about a pic straight on to the shaft?

 

[DavidB]

I've got a 15" Clausing that I've gone through and it seems similar to your 20. Though my pulley assembly is put on in the other direction I think the same approach will work.

The pulley assembly (both halves) has been pressed onto the motor shaft and secured with the set screw. You'll have to loosen the set screw and use a press or puller to separate the pulley assembly from the motor. Don't pull on the edges of the pulley. From there, the pulley assembly can be separated by pressing the spring retainer down (cap on the end of the spring) and removing the retainer clip from the end of the upper pulley half.

I've got some pics of disassembling my 15" DP that I can post if it would be helpful.

 

[Crank1]

Any pics are appreciated. I’ve really never been able to find any manual on the drill press. I did soak the end in kroil, May need to do it the the other way as suggested. The replacement motor is just a straight shank 7/8” shaft.

 

[DavidB]

You can probably find a manual on Vintage Machinery. Take a look here. http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=182&tab=3

You'll have to know your model number to get the "right" manual. Though others might be close.

 

[DavidB]

The attached picture is about the only one I have that is directly applicable. It shows pushing down the spring retainer to remove the retainer clip. I've got some other pics on my blog in my signature. Go there and search for "Clausing Drill Press" and you'll find several posts with that in the title. Those show some pics of me going through my 15" DP.

 

[Dingleburry]

The ones ive worked on (adjustable pulleys, not drill presses), either have a bolt down the center shaft, or set screws, but most involve a torch and prybars, some penetrating fluid never hurts either. Prybar between spring retainer and motor housing, or if you can see the hollow shaft pressed on motor shaft. careful of plastic parts, last one i did had a plastic key under the movable pulley, and an oil seal under movable pulley. Good luck

 

[OccupantRJ]

Hell, if you are replacing the motor, that is another method altogether. Cut off the motor shaft so the stub can be pressed out using a press and the proper support.

 

[L.Cheapo]

A lot of good advice here already. All I can add is be very, very careful. I found out the hard way a long time ago that variable speed pulleys break easier than you would think they should. Good luck!

 

[paulsomlo]

Oftentimes, the setscrew will raise a burr on the key and make removal difficult.

 

[benjamintmiller]

Email Clausing. I did, and they sent me the date of manufacture and a manual for my 20" drill press. They have outstanding customer service.

 

[danbuff]

make sure isnt a double setscrew.. one under the one you removed

 

[Crank1]

This is what I’m looking at. I removed 1 setscrew. I don’t see anything else holding it on.

 

[cooljoe57]

Looks similar to the one on my Powermatic 1200. I ended up using a shop press to get it off.

 

[Crank1]

I took the motor apart. Wonder if I can hulk smash the end plate for better access. Maybe use a bearing separator plate under the bottom and a press possibly

 

[OccupantRJ]

You may to be able to use a split bearing separator on it, but if the motor will be tossed, just hacksaw the shaft off. It will make it all much easier. You might be able to use the end bell as a press plate to push it off, but it is likely to break the end bell. I would not heat the pulley assembly. There is usually an anti-friction coating on that inner hub so the moving pulley can slide easier. In fact, that coating is usually what fails on these pulleys.

 

[Crank1]

RJ. Thanks for the tip about the heat, you can actually see the black coating, but I didn’t even think about it. The motor is really of no use, a 460V motor and it’s not worth trying to resell. I guess I’m just concerned about where I can push and pull on this pulley, without destroying it. Do you think, if I chop the shaft, should I try to block up under the movable side of the pulley as inboard as possible, or the very bottom where the shaft meets the small part of the nonmovable portion of the pulley?

 

[OccupantRJ]

Either might work ok, but the factory end of the motor shaft will already be chamfered, so I would prefer to push that down through the hub, so place that end up, otherwise the key may try to ramp up the sloped end of the keyway and wedge up the procedure. Cut the shaft at the smaller diameter to allow more support near the center when pressing. Support with a large socket or short length of pipe like a steel coupling With parellel ends to put all the support as near the bore as possible.

Once the shaft starts to move you can get more creative as to having enough height to allow the shaft to travel through freely. Take your time, as impatience is what gets most people in trouble on things like this. I have removed and installed drive hubs where the shaft was 24" diameter and the hub half weighed 1,400 lbs. The key was 2"x2"and 24" long. It is all patience and thought process, while protecting the more valuable parts.

The unit could also be placed in a metal lathe and the shaft bored enough to allow it to stress relieve enough to press it out, but I think yours will move with a little effort as it was likely a slip fit originally anyway.

 

[Crank1]

Thanks everyone for the help. Beat the piss out of the motor today to get access to the shaft, to cut it(which was awful) then set the pulley end down on a 1 1/4” socket and beat the shaft back through it. Came out after a couple good swings with my deadblow ball peen.
I’ll be polishing everything up, and re-assembling soon!

 

[OccupantRJ]

Excellent! A bit of research and patience prevails once again! Glad it worked out for you to save that expensive pulley assembly.