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Clausing 3 Phase Drill Press - Converting to Single Phase

straightcut

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Phoenix, Arizona
In typical Garage Journal style, I have found a drill press much larger than my needs, but what can I say - it appeals to me for the "cool factor"!:pimpflash

It's a variable speed (with crank) and has a Howell 3/4 hp 3 phase motor. I would use it in my garage where I have 220V, single phase. Would it be more practical to replace the motor with a single phase or use a phase converter? If I replaced the motor with a single phase, would I need to re-wire the drill press or is that ok with no change?

The do nothing option is also viable. I could let this pass and get by just fine with my 1990 era Craftsman floor model drill press.

Thanks for the advice!
 
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theoldwizard1

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It's a variable speed (with crank) and has a Howell 3/4 hp 3 phase motor.
????? :dunno:


I would use it in my garage where I have 220V, single phase. Would it be more practical to replace the motor with a single phase or use a phase converter?
Single phase. A 1hp motor would probably work well also. Make sure thye have matching RPM.

If I replaced the motor with a single phase, would I need to re-wire the drill press or is that ok with no change?
What else has electricity running to it on the drill press ?
 

justanengineer

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JMO but I'd add a VFD (variable frequency drive) or buy/build a RPC (rotary phase converter). Either should run ~$100, the first will give you additional electronic control options (electronic speed changes, E-stop, digital speed display, etc), the second allows you to run multiple 3-phase machines. Both allow you to keep the smoother, instantaneously reversible 3-phase motor and the machine will hold more value without having a 1-phase motor cobbled on.

Not that its difficult, but you will have to rewire any switches and safeties if you swap motors.
 

Shott8283

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VFD all day.. i think its a disservice when you drop from 3ph to single on a machine when you truly dont have to.
 

marinusdees

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If you Google on running a thee phase motor on single phase, you will get more information than you need, including, but not limited to, a lot of (mis) information.
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
Buy the most basic VFD from TECO. Look for them on eBay.
It will run $117 I belive for the size you need.
Get the basic one without the speed knob as you can use the vary drive on the DP to change speeds. You can also wire in a pot to the VFD if you also want to vary the speed that way.
Doing it this way will also give you reverse for drilling with a left had drill bit or so you can do taping on the DP

I have this sabe setup on the DP I went through

Bob
 

redmondjp

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One recommendation with that drill press - you are supposed to run the variable-speed belt through its full speed range once a week so the belt doesn't take a set in one position.

I know that nobody really ever does this, but it will keep it running smoother if you do it.
 
OP
S

straightcut

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Thanks for all of the comments and advice.

Here's the drill press I was thinking about. It's overkill for what I need, but it looks like a value considering how well this commercial model appears to be made compared to even an older U.S. made homeowner's model. Then again, maybe this is just a trip off into the weeds when a light duty machine will suffice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262366737504?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Please comment on that and whether or not it looks like it's a decent deal.
 
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straightcut

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You do know you could spend a couple days refurbing this, the bearing must need a change.

Are you referring to the quill bearings?

Is it good enough to feel for play in the quill or should I purchase a dial indicator and magnetic base to measure it accurately?

Question 2, is a Harbor Freight dial indicator good enough for this or would I be wasting time/money. I've gotten by this long without a dial indicator...
 

catalytic

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I have this same drill press in the single phase, slow speed, V-belt (no reeves drive) version. It is, in my opinion, about the best drill press ever made in this size.

Re: 3-phase, switching the motor is not a big deal. You want a single phase motor with the same frame size (listed on the motor's info plate). Figure $200 from ebay including shipping, but possibly half that if you luck out.

However, many people prefer to use a VFD instead. I would use a KBAC-24D VFD on this drill press. You can then run your 3-phase motor on 115v household power or 220v single phase (the KBAC drives take either). You also get electronic braking and some other perks.

The above posters are correct that you may need to change the bearings in the motor and/or quill. This is not really a huge deal -- I do it all the time.
 

larry_g

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If your considering changing the motor on this machine I would suggest that you confirm that is a standard frame motor on there. Something in my foggy memory says that the shaft on that motor may be special to mount the variable speed unit.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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straightcut

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Thanks for all of the comments and recommendations for a variable frequency drive (VFD). I did end up purchasing this drill press today. Without a dial indicator, I carefully felt absolutely no play at the chuck with the quill fully extended.

RSanter, looking on eBay, I was unable to find the basic $117 Teco VFD? Could I get some help with the model I would need? I don't really think I need the frills of the deluxe VFD's, such as electronic braking, speed control (being the drill press has a variable speed control), digital speed readout, so a basic model should suite me.

The Howell motor is stamped: 3/4HP, 3 phase, no thermal protection, Volt: 208-220/440, Amp: 2.4, 1.2. The rating is something I don't understand. Is it 2.4 amps at 220V and 1.2 amps at 440V?

Would I be able to use something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetek-FH...094873?hash=item1ea3523dd9:g:mPsAAOSwu4BV3b6T or is it recommended for a rookie to avoid used?

Is there preventive maintenance I should perform, such as cleaning/re-greasing quill bearings?

Thanks for your comments!
 
Last edited:

catalytic

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Dealers electric often has the best prices on TECO vfd's. I've bought from them and they were very helpful. Your press already has variable speed, so you don't really need sensorless vector control on your VFD.

The cheap option is $123 for the Teco FM50 that everyone uses:
http://DealersElectric.com/FM50-101-C.asp
115v operation and it's a tried and true vfd. Unless you get a MUCH better deal than what you posted on ebay, I would personally want this one because it's factory new w/3 year warranty, since these are small mass produced cheap little VFD's and occasionally you get a bad one.

A better option would be anything with NEMA 4x enclosure. If you don't use a NEMA 4x vfd or make your own enclosure (that has to be 4x the volume of the VFD to allow cooling), then at least mount your VFD high up and away from metal chips and grinding dust.

There's a reasonable chance you'll need to replace the motor bearings and spindle bearings. Not a big deal, except be very careful when you pull off the pulleys that you dont bend or crack them (on the pulleys, use kroil, heat, and a backing plate -- not puller jaws directly on these parts!!).

There are a couple of grease zerks to add spindle grease. May want to give these a shot. Manual shows where, and most of these drill still have the sticker on the left near where the spring tension knob is that reminds you to do it.

More likely is that you'll hear squeaking and/or other issues with the Reeves variable speed setup. People like to run them at the same speed always, which slowly wears a groove where the belt stays (note: reeves drives should be maintained by running through the full speed range briefly once each day that you use the drill, i.e. twist the speed selector from all the way slow to all the way fast once per day of use).

Personally, if it were my drill press, I would run it and listen carefully to what you hear. If everything is tight and quiet, I would leave it alone. If not, post what you find...most things on this machine are easy to fix, and I know of a few places that have stocks of spare parts/donor machines if you really get stuck.

**edit:
Post a picture of your motor's info tag. It might be simpler to just swap the motor vs. use a VFD. Having installed a few VFD's with various controls, I still think that this machine is an example where the simplest solution may still win. I say this because I personally wouldn't love a machine tool with an unprotected (non NEMA 4X) vfd, and the machine already has a Reeves drive which will last better when it's used in different speeds. I also don't love using original switches as VFD controls since they don't have gold plated contacts for use with low voltage VFD control circuits (so they tend to corrode), which means one really should use external controls with the VFD, which means a lot more work designing and fab'ing the controls to do it right.

Sometimes the simplest solution really is the best solution. Of course, I don't mean to take anything away from some of the great control panel/VFD systems we've seen elsewhere, but if you just need the thing to spin at 115v...
 
Last edited:

rsanter

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visalia ca
Dealers electric often has the best prices on TECO vfd's. I've bought from them and they were very helpful. Your press already has variable speed, so you don't really need sensorless vector control on your VFD.

The cheap option is $123 for the Teco FM50 that everyone uses:
http://DealersElectric.com/FM50-101-C.asp
115v operation and it's a tried and true vfd. Unless you get a MUCH better deal than what you posted on ebay, I would personally want this one because it's factory new w/3 year warranty, since these are small mass produced cheap little VFD's and occasionally you get a bad one.

A better option would be anything with NEMA 4x enclosure. If you don't use a NEMA 4x vfd or make your own enclosure (that has to be 4x the volume of the VFD to allow cooling), then at least mount your VFD high up and away from metal chips and grinding dust.

There's a reasonable chance you'll need to replace the motor bearings and spindle bearings. Not a big deal, except be very careful when you pull off the pulleys that you dont bend or crack them (on the pulleys, use kroil, heat, and a backing plate -- not puller jaws directly on these parts!!).

There are a couple of grease zerks to add spindle grease. May want to give these a shot. Manual shows where, and most of these drill still have the sticker on the left near where the spring tension knob is that reminds you to do it.

More likely is that you'll hear squeaking and/or other issues with the Reeves variable speed setup. People like to run them at the same speed always, which slowly wears a groove where the belt stays (note: reeves drives should be maintained by running through the full speed range briefly once each day that you use the drill, i.e. twist the speed selector from all the way slow to all the way fast once per day of use).

Personally, if it were my drill press, I would run it and listen carefully to what you hear. If everything is tight and quiet, I would leave it alone. If not, post what you find...most things on this machine are easy to fix, and I know of a few places that have stocks of spare parts/donor machines if you really get stuck.

**edit:
Post a picture of your motor's info tag. It might be simpler to just swap the motor vs. use a VFD. Having installed a few VFD's with various controls, I still think that this machine is an example where the simplest solution may still win. I say this because I personally wouldn't love a machine tool with an unprotected (non NEMA 4X) vfd, and the machine already has a Reeves drive which will last better when it's used in different speeds. I also don't love using original switches as VFD controls since they don't have gold plated contacts for use with low voltage VFD control circuits (so they tend to corrode), which means one really should use external controls with the VFD, which means a lot more work designing and fab'ing the controls to do it right.

Sometimes the simplest solution really is the best solution. Of course, I don't mean to take anything away from some of the great control panel/VFD systems we've seen elsewhere, but if you just need the thing to spin at 115v...



I guess they have gone up a little. Take a look,at this one it is what I was thinking

Bob
 

Jim Johnstone

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The Howell motor is stamped: 3/4HP, 3 phase, no thermal protection, Volt: 208-220/440, Amp: 2.4, 1.2. The rating is something I don't understand. Is it 2.4 amps at 220V and 1.2 amps at 440V?

Yes thats exactly what it means. Amperage is inversely proportional to voltage, so if you double the incoming voltage, you half the required amperage.

This is why most industry in Canada is 600 volt, reduces amperage requirements to each machine, allows smaller feed wiring etc.
 

agftemp

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Sep 21, 2013
Messages
7
I just picked up a 15" clausing with the reeves variable speed drive but the top pulley on the front pulley (over the spindle not motor ) broke off. Can anyone post a pic of what this part should look like? I was thinking of machining a groove in the shaft and using a rounf circlip to hold it.
 

shawhite

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Hope this helps
 

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agftemp

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Sep 21, 2013
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Wow, great pics! It looks like the original shaft had a groove machined into the OD. Is that correct? What then is used to secure the top pulley? From the pic it appears to be a unique clipping mechanism. My shaft appears to have broken off at the groove.
 

shawhite

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Looks like the top half of the pulley is one piece with the shaft.
 

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