Clausing Drill Press
- Thread starter DavidB
- Start date
I received the spindle from the Ebay seller today. Everything seemed to be in good condition with the exception of the threaded ring on the chuck. It is broken and doesn't hold the chuck in place. I'd suspected this from the picture on Ebay. The chuck (a made in England Jacobs) looked good though. The spindle looked to be in great shape though. Since I don't need the chuck, I proceeded with it.
Here's the assembly as recieved.
I was going to swap the bearings but the ones that came with it looked/felt good and the assembly wouldn't fit in my press anyways. So, I decided I'd install it as is to see if it'd work.
I'm glad to report that it does work and everything seems to run well. I decided to see what the runout was using a piece of drill rod and my HF dial indicator. Max reading was 0.005" so I am pretty happy with that.
Inaugural drilling!
It seems to drill nice holes.
Here's some shots of it finished.
For comparison
Yay I'm finally done! Well, for the most part. I'll probably pick up some black plastic balls to go on the feed handles from McMaster at some point. I'd also like to put a drum switch on it so I can reverse the direction. But for now, I'm quite happy with it!
Here's the assembly as recieved.
I was going to swap the bearings but the ones that came with it looked/felt good and the assembly wouldn't fit in my press anyways. So, I decided I'd install it as is to see if it'd work.
I'm glad to report that it does work and everything seems to run well. I decided to see what the runout was using a piece of drill rod and my HF dial indicator. Max reading was 0.005" so I am pretty happy with that.
Inaugural drilling!
It seems to drill nice holes.
Here's some shots of it finished.
For comparison
Yay I'm finally done! Well, for the most part. I'll probably pick up some black plastic balls to go on the feed handles from McMaster at some point. I'd also like to put a drum switch on it so I can reverse the direction. But for now, I'm quite happy with it!
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
chris fresh
Well-known member
david, looks great.thanks for the info you gave me on mine.hey and also,wich knobs do you need? i have the three black ones left from my handles.the top is done with the aluminum ones and now i'm making a sample of what i might do for the new ones on the handles. and the holes in them are 3/8-24.don't know if yours are the same.
i just got my hands on some 1/2 stainless rod,now i just have to learn how to turn it without burning up every cutter i have.
let me know if yer interested in those.
i just got my hands on some 1/2 stainless rod,now i just have to learn how to turn it without burning up every cutter i have.
let me know if yer interested in those.
Hmm, the feed handles on mine are 7/16" rod with a plain end with no threading. I was just going to get some knobs, drill them out, and press them onto my handles. It's odd that yours are threaded and mine are not. I wonder if the handles have been replaced on mine or something.
chris fresh
Well-known member
could be,the knobs are that typical black plastic,or whatever and have brass inserts that are threaded.
I'm back with another update. I posted about my rebuild on OWWM and a guy suggested that I check the runout on my spindle because the 0.005" runout I measured before seemed high. So I did and the runout at 3 points on the spindle taper was in the ~0.0003" range. I'm estimating this by eye on my dial indicator that only has markings 0.001" increments and it moved less than half the distance between marks. I put the chuck back on and checked the runout with my drill rod again and got about 0.02"! I could actually see the runout in the drill rod. I rechucked the drill rod and still had about that range. Fast forward an hour, I'd removed and replaced the chuck multiple times but the runout was still there. I don't know what set of lucky conditions I had to get that 0.005" runout from before.
I thought that maybe something was inside the chuck that was causing one of the jaws to be out of position so I disassembled the chuck and cleaned it. On the bright side it operated much smoother but it didn't fix my problem. I then took it back apart and checked the runout on some surfaces inside. On the surface that has the printing on it, I consistently was getting about 0.008" of runout. I clocked the chuck on the spindle several times and was able to consistently locate the high and low points on the chuck. So, it seems that my chuck has a slight bow in it which strikes me as odd but it's what I'm left with.
I tried the ebay chuck and it was slightly better. The taper on the inside of this chuck is not as clean as the original one I had. But I tried to clean it and it felt pretty smooth. I figure the chances of getting two bent chucks is low but I'm not sure what else it could be. I've checked the tapers for anything that would cause an issue and cleaned them. When putting the original chuck on the spindle I snug the ring up,lightly tap it with a rubber mallet, and then snug the ring up again. The Ebay chuck doesn't have a ring so I tapped it in place with the rubber mallet. I'm pretty sure this is all there is to putting a chuck on a taper spindle.
I'm not sure how to separate my two issues (chuck mounted poorly vs bent chuck) because the only way I can check runout of the chuck is with it mounted on the spindle. If anyone has any ideas or recommendations I'm all ears.
As a reward for reading the depressing bit before I have pictures.
To get the chuck apart you press the outer sleeve off with the jaw midways retracted. Once the outer sleeve has been removed you can take the threaded ring halves out and remove the jaws. Each jaw must be put back in the hole you removed them from!! So keep track of them or figure out the differences.
Here is the chuck disassembled.
To help in assembly, Jacobs has marked the core of the chuck with numbers 1-3. Here is number 3.
Each of the jaws are slightly different as well. If you look on all three jaws at the location indicated you'll see they're all different. In this pic the bottom jaw is #1 and the top is #3.
If anyone has ideas let me know. I'm scratching my head here. It's late so there is a strong possibility I am overlooking something simple.
I thought that maybe something was inside the chuck that was causing one of the jaws to be out of position so I disassembled the chuck and cleaned it. On the bright side it operated much smoother but it didn't fix my problem. I then took it back apart and checked the runout on some surfaces inside. On the surface that has the printing on it, I consistently was getting about 0.008" of runout. I clocked the chuck on the spindle several times and was able to consistently locate the high and low points on the chuck. So, it seems that my chuck has a slight bow in it which strikes me as odd but it's what I'm left with.
I tried the ebay chuck and it was slightly better. The taper on the inside of this chuck is not as clean as the original one I had. But I tried to clean it and it felt pretty smooth. I figure the chances of getting two bent chucks is low but I'm not sure what else it could be. I've checked the tapers for anything that would cause an issue and cleaned them. When putting the original chuck on the spindle I snug the ring up,lightly tap it with a rubber mallet, and then snug the ring up again. The Ebay chuck doesn't have a ring so I tapped it in place with the rubber mallet. I'm pretty sure this is all there is to putting a chuck on a taper spindle.
I'm not sure how to separate my two issues (chuck mounted poorly vs bent chuck) because the only way I can check runout of the chuck is with it mounted on the spindle. If anyone has any ideas or recommendations I'm all ears.
As a reward for reading the depressing bit before I have pictures.
To get the chuck apart you press the outer sleeve off with the jaw midways retracted. Once the outer sleeve has been removed you can take the threaded ring halves out and remove the jaws. Each jaw must be put back in the hole you removed them from!! So keep track of them or figure out the differences.
Here is the chuck disassembled.
To help in assembly, Jacobs has marked the core of the chuck with numbers 1-3. Here is number 3.
Each of the jaws are slightly different as well. If you look on all three jaws at the location indicated you'll see they're all different. In this pic the bottom jaw is #1 and the top is #3.
If anyone has ideas let me know. I'm scratching my head here. It's late so there is a strong possibility I am overlooking something simple.
So, I had an idea on the way home. I have bench top drill press from Harbor Freight that I've had for years. I looked to see what taper it's chuck used and luckily it was a JT33. So I checked the runout on it and it was about 0.006" on the drill rod. The quill slop is terrible on it though. So I took the chuck off of it and put it on the Clausing and got 0.005" the first time. I think that pretty much says the chuck is shot.
So, I'm going to look for a new one. Are there decently priced chucks out there that are still made in the US? I looked at Jacobs but they're all made in China now and a lot of folks seemed to think their quality had dropped off. I'd like to get a keyed chuck because I plan to make this drill press reversible in the future and I read that running in reverse will loosen a keyless chuck up. I've read some good reviews about a German company name Rohm but I'm still researching it.
So, I'm going to look for a new one. Are there decently priced chucks out there that are still made in the US? I looked at Jacobs but they're all made in China now and a lot of folks seemed to think their quality had dropped off. I'd like to get a keyed chuck because I plan to make this drill press reversible in the future and I read that running in reverse will loosen a keyless chuck up. I've read some good reviews about a German company name Rohm but I'm still researching it.
Bunk
Well-known member
I have a Rohm on my press and love it. On sale at Enco, it was VERY reasonable
Glad you got back on this. I have 2 Clausings in my barn, and now that I'm getting my attached garage put on, they are going to get torn down to make 1. Well 2, but one out of the parts I need, and the other to sell. One is a variable speed, with a 3 phase motor and one is a step pulley with a single phase motor, so the variable speed will be getting the single phase motor and rebuild like you've done.
Can't wait to do exactly what you've done, hopefully since I've got 2, if I have any issues I can steal parts, and won't have to wait. Definitely inspiring me to get mine out of the barn this weekend and drug up to the house. Great work!!!
Can't wait to do exactly what you've done, hopefully since I've got 2, if I have any issues I can steal parts, and won't have to wait. Definitely inspiring me to get mine out of the barn this weekend and drug up to the house. Great work!!!
The Rohm Prima chuck arrived over the holidays and I was able to install it tonight. I put a lot of pics of it as I wasn't able to find much info about it.
It cam in a simple box with a key which is not noted on Enco's page.
Closeup of the chuck out of the box. Scuffs and marks are in the wax coating not the actual metal.
No question where it was made.
Installed on the drill press along with the some knobs I ordered for the feed handles. 1" down the drill rod from the chuck showed less than 0.001" runout. Near the bottom of the drill rod showed 0.002" runout.
Closeup of the closed chuck. The bottom surfaces of the chuck have a polished surface while the jaws are smooth with a mottled appearance.
Next up is installing this drum switch I snagged off of Ebay so I can reverse. Of course I need to figure out how to hook it up first...
It cam in a simple box with a key which is not noted on Enco's page.
Closeup of the chuck out of the box. Scuffs and marks are in the wax coating not the actual metal.
No question where it was made.
Installed on the drill press along with the some knobs I ordered for the feed handles. 1" down the drill rod from the chuck showed less than 0.001" runout. Near the bottom of the drill rod showed 0.002" runout.
Closeup of the closed chuck. The bottom surfaces of the chuck have a polished surface while the jaws are smooth with a mottled appearance.
Next up is installing this drum switch I snagged off of Ebay so I can reverse. Of course I need to figure out how to hook it up first...
I got the drum switch installed and wired up today. I used a piece of angle iron to mount the switch. It is mounted to the left two motor bolts. I used some left over water proof flexible plastic conduit I had and some 14 gauge wire to hook it all up. I used some 14/3 stranded wire and removed the wires from the rubber outer cover so they'd fit in the conduit. I used 5 wires total: one for motor wires 1 and 3, one for motor wires 2 and4, one for motor wire 5, one for motor wire 8, and one for ground. I found a website on line that told how to wire up motors and drum switches. It is here if you're interested. http://www.industrial-electronics.com/motor_control/3h_Reversing-Motors-Drum-Switch.html The diagram for the split phase motor is applicable for my application. I made a chart up specifically for my drill press in hopes that it might help Crank1 or anyone else who might want to reverse their Clausing drill press. Note that the motor wires MUST be numbered the same to use this diagram. If they are not you could easily alter it if you understand that you're just switching the start winding wires. I hooked up the 120V hot side to drum switch terminal 6 because it is not connected to anything else when the drum switch is in the off position. This really doesn't matter if you're using the factory switch, as I still am, to turn it on and off. Its not shown in the chart but make sure to hook the ground wire up as well. Triple check your connections so you don't fry your motor and don't blame me if you do! 
Here is my fancy chart.
My drum switch internal connections.
My motor plate.
All wired up.
Closed up and ready to work. For my drum switch back is forward and front is reverse. This could easily be changed by swapping where the 5 and 8 motor wires are hooked up in the drum switch.
With this I am finally done...again! I'll probably pick up a new belt at some point to see if I can remove some small vibrations and to keep from having to put belt dressing (silicon dialectic grease) on it every so often. The resto was was lots of fun and I hope everyone enjoyed the posts. If anyone has questions post or PM me.
David
Here is my fancy chart.
My drum switch internal connections.
My motor plate.
All wired up.
Closed up and ready to work. For my drum switch back is forward and front is reverse. This could easily be changed by swapping where the 5 and 8 motor wires are hooked up in the drum switch.
With this I am finally done...again! I'll probably pick up a new belt at some point to see if I can remove some small vibrations and to keep from having to put belt dressing (silicon dialectic grease) on it every so often. The resto was was lots of fun and I hope everyone enjoyed the posts. If anyone has questions post or PM me.
David
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chris fresh
Well-known member
turned out really nice.mine is just about done also,i mounted that control box almost the same way,made a bracket off two of the mount bolts.i had a friend of a friend wire the controller for me.two issues,one is it's wired backwards (bit spins wrong way) and the variable speed knob doesn't work.i tried swapping wires on the motor,but it tripped the breaker.i have some time this week and i'll try and get it totally wrapped up.gonna look through the book tonight and see what i have to swap.
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Wow. Great thread and resto. Really nice job seeing it through.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
I have a Clausing 1670, can you of you guys send me contact info on where to get a Parts/ sevice manual? I have a problem with it, it will not run slow enough. I bought it used and it came like this. It has a 1725 motor and I guess the right pulleys and belts. Can someone send me the correct bely number and maybe a picture of the pulleys of there's at full speed and at lowest speed so I can figure out what's wrong with mine?
Iron-Iceberg
Well-known member
Call clausing they will email you the manuel.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
I have a manual now. I found what looks like the right one. I'm looking an belt interchange to see if the belt that's on mine now is the right belt. I've adjusted it as the manual says and it still runs too fast at it's lowest setting. I contacted a retired machinist that gave some insight into my problem. It may be the wrong pitch angle belt for the pulleys. I'd love to know and actual belt number besides the OEM number to see if it's the right belt on therre now. In the morning I'm going to build a pulley angle gauge to check the pulley angles. OEM Part # is 058-021 , but the parts list doesn't give belt dimensions.
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TheGrooveking
Well-known member
Haven't read the whole thread but did want to state Clausinv drill presses are the Rolls Royce of drill presses IMO.
TheGrooveking
TheGrooveking
Richard D
Well-known member
I have one of these, 1 1/2 H.P. 3 phase. I want to switch to single phase but I'm on a tight budget. Any ideas?
Have you looked into a VFD? Single phase "in", three phase "out".
Richard D
Well-known member
I have a phase converter for my milling machine. I was wondering about other options.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
Do me a favor, measure the belt width on your 1670 DP. Clausing has not replied to my calls or e-mail yet.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
Don't worry about it, I just ordered a new belt from Clausing. I'll measure it when it gets here.
I realize you already ordered a belt but I'll still respond in hopes that it helps someone else with the same question. The belt on my machine has 1422V466 written on it. Googleing this number comes up with a belt that has a 22 Degree Angle Pulley, Cogged, 0.875" Top Width, 0.33" Height, 46.6" Pitch Length.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
I"m posting the below in hopes of helping someone else. In responce to DavidB. It looks like the belt and DP I have has several problems. #1 it's too short. #2 it's worn too thin, I measured the width and found I had about .707 inch width. #3 We found the bronze guide bushing behind the speed adjust hub popped out the front and was limiting the travel in. #4 The bolt the speed adjust pivots on is missing the jamb nut on the inside. It would get tight when you turn it and lock up the adjustment. #5 It is missing the wave washer behind the hub and the thrust bearing plate. I've found a wave washer to install and something to use for the thrust bearing plate. My guess is when the new OEM belt get's here I should be reay to go after adjusting the belt. I called around to see if anyone had anything close to the one on there now and did not find one. At least now the info DavidB posted we know what will work in place of the OEM belt and I'm sure it's cheaper than the OEM. I hope this helps someone out in the future.
I ordered a belt from Clausing today. The one that's on it now is a 1422V460, it's a Browning brand belt.
I got this reply back from another guy on another website that deals with a lot of machinery.:
The 1422V460 means its a 22º wedge that's 14/16 ths (7/8") wide.
460 means the length is 46". A couple of sticks and a protractor can
reveal whether your pulleys are meant for the 22º belt.
Many Powermatic and Delta drill presses use a 1922V profile belt
(1-3/16" wide). Check the range of the pulley movement to see if
1-3/16" would be a better fit.
kevin47
Well-known member
Nothing as nice as having a good drill press to work with...Unless of course your like me and just use a Bridgeport lol Just kidding...I'd love to have a "spare" drill press such as yours...
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
LOL, that's why I'm fixing this one, I'm tired of using my 9 x 42 Bridgeport with DRO for a drill press.
kevin47
Well-known member
There's reasons for having 3 phase motors...One is their cheaper to run...Think of the cost of electricity in factory's and how they love to cut cost's...Another big reason is you can turn them on and off all day long without over heating and burning them up...And they come up to speed a bit faster...
As for switching to a single phase motor...? To much trouble, unless you already have one laying around that will work...Otherwise, go to some place like ENCO.com and get a cheap phase converter...Better yet, watch for one on Craig's list or eBay...
As for switching to a single phase motor...? To much trouble, unless you already have one laying around that will work...Otherwise, go to some place like ENCO.com and get a cheap phase converter...Better yet, watch for one on Craig's list or eBay...
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
I have to admit, having DRO on a regular DP would be nice if I had a bed with travel. The BP has spoiled me a bunch. The other day a buddy was over here and asked why I didn't have a DP. I told I had this Clausing but it messed up. He said he could unerstand how I built the stuff I did without a DP. Itold him I have one, The Bridgeport. He laughed it off until we needed to make a bracket out of some 1x1 tubing. We needed two holes 5 inches apart. I told him to give me the on center measurement for the bolt holes. Then he proceeded to tell me the distance from the edg of the holes ect and ttried to mark the tubing. Then he saw the usefulness of DRO. Drill the first hole and move it over 5 inches on the DRO and pop the next one, no measuring needed. He went home and started looking at DRO's for his stuff.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
FWIW,My Bridgeport is 3ph and my South Bend lathe are 3ph. I used a rotary convertor until I got my Semens Micromaster VFD. It's adjustable, you set it for the motor type, and you can set the motor ramp up and down speed so it doesn't draw as many amps at start up. It has a remote POT I've not got around to wiring yet for remote location adjustment.
kevin47
Well-known member
Does tend to "tie-up" the machine or if your already have a project in the way...I have a second mill handy...it's an Italian made (1962) Kandia....Ever heard of one of those...? Man, there great...The "hand-scraping is unbelievable, their exactly like a Bridgeport ( parts are interchangeable ) but talk about smooth movement...
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
My BP is a well used and abused machine. If it were not for the DRO I'd be screwed. One day I'll take thebed apart and fix the L-R movement, lots of play. For what I use it for I can live with. I just "whittle things out."
kevin47
Well-known member
I've got a warehouse with 3 phase so I'm kinda lucky there ( except for the rent lol ) I've got two South Bend's a 13" that I've added a 5Hp 3 phase motor, too. and a 9" that I'm the second owner...the 9" is 1947..And the 13" is between 1942 & 1944...If you go over to the web-site Practical Machining they have a whole section just for SB lover's...HaHa
kevin47
Well-known member
Oh man, taking of the table is no sweat...I used to do it all the time...For cleaning and adjustment...Have something ready to set it on and a friend to help lift...
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
I go there sometimes. I have a 15 inch South Bend, 1927 model. It's missing the extra gears so I'm stuck using it as a manual lathe for the most part, only one set of gears for the feed. They wanted a fortune plus a minimum for 3ph here at the shop at home.
kevin47
Well-known member
3 hp for a SB is pretty big...You add that or is it an 18"...? I don't really have a BP...I bought an ACRA 10x52...It's made in Tiawan , but I like it better...I have to stand on a step stool to reach the draw-bar and I'm 5'10" haha It's that big...Heck, 52" table you can't reach both ends...Sony read-out...3 hp...It was $10,500 new in 1995...I got it in mint condition in '98 for $5,500...I use it about once a month...lol