n20junkie
Well-known member
Some Pictures of the garage redo. It is a 20x20, all block, attached garage with a stucco interior. The ceiling had water damage, and had to remove the drywall from the entire ceiling. The ceiling joist were on 20 inch centers, so I added fabbed beams and sistered them to the exising joist to allow for full 48 inch panels to be installed. I needed alot of light, so semigloss paint was used on the entire interior to reflect the 8, 8ft 4 tube fixtures.
Old garage
Half the removed ceiling
I tapped into the houses boiler, and added a 43,000btu heater. The center beam was jacked, and 2x10's added to make it clean (from all the nails and mesh from the previous stucco) and level.
All cleaned up, cracks filled, and painted
Above the garage doors was water damage as well. The stucco was on there so good that it was easier to adhere drywall over the damaged area, and replace the center support for the openers.
The lights are on 2 switches, for low and high beams, so that I can keep power bills down a bit, and not blind people. The older openers were gone through, and had wireless modules installed on them.
The door rail brackets were screwed into 2x6's that I put behind the drywall before installing it, and the holes were drilled with a hole saw so I can hang stuff easily. You never know when you have hang stuff.
I did 100 percent of the work myself
CHEAP TRICK of the day, the hangars for all the lights are 1/2 in black pipe hangars, 79 cents a piece, and they work great with the factory punched holes in the lights.
Old garage
Half the removed ceiling
I tapped into the houses boiler, and added a 43,000btu heater. The center beam was jacked, and 2x10's added to make it clean (from all the nails and mesh from the previous stucco) and level.
All cleaned up, cracks filled, and painted
Above the garage doors was water damage as well. The stucco was on there so good that it was easier to adhere drywall over the damaged area, and replace the center support for the openers.
The lights are on 2 switches, for low and high beams, so that I can keep power bills down a bit, and not blind people. The older openers were gone through, and had wireless modules installed on them.
The door rail brackets were screwed into 2x6's that I put behind the drywall before installing it, and the holes were drilled with a hole saw so I can hang stuff easily. You never know when you have hang stuff.
I did 100 percent of the work myself
CHEAP TRICK of the day, the hangars for all the lights are 1/2 in black pipe hangars, 79 cents a piece, and they work great with the factory punched holes in the lights.
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