larry4406
Well-known member
The plants have already figured out a cash stream for the unused partial loads and it means $$$.
Clean cut
- Thread starter bluedog225
- Start date
Since you asked…Miller 625 plasma and the bottle for the torch is in back of my cart…
finn
Well-known member
Cutting them after installed? Use a circular saw with a ferrous blade. Any circular saw will do, does not have to be a 1750 saw.
I had to cut 44 posts to height after install. I made a 6" long sleeve out of four pieces of 3/4" plywood. Screwed them together so the sleeve slid over the outside of the posts with a bit of clearance, a snug fit but not too tight.
My circular saw blade is ~1-1/2" away from the edge of the saw's shoe plate.
I snapped a line on the posts 1-1/2" below the desired post height. Then I'd slide the sleeve over the post with the top of the sleeve aligned with the line. Place the clamp below the sleeve, clamp tight to the post so the bottom of the sleeve rests on the clamp. Adjust as needed to keep the top of the sleeve on the line. Then make the cut by running the circular saw around the four sides of the post.
Nice clean cuts. Fast. Accurate. Easy.
I had to cut 44 posts to height after install. I made a 6" long sleeve out of four pieces of 3/4" plywood. Screwed them together so the sleeve slid over the outside of the posts with a bit of clearance, a snug fit but not too tight.
My circular saw blade is ~1-1/2" away from the edge of the saw's shoe plate.
I snapped a line on the posts 1-1/2" below the desired post height. Then I'd slide the sleeve over the post with the top of the sleeve aligned with the line. Place the clamp below the sleeve, clamp tight to the post so the bottom of the sleeve rests on the clamp. Adjust as needed to keep the top of the sleeve on the line. Then make the cut by running the circular saw around the four sides of the post.
Nice clean cuts. Fast. Accurate. Easy.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
You own the saw already, that will cut perfectly, on the bench or in the field. Speed square or guide done, touch up with a flap wheel. Pretend you're cutting a 4 x 4 wood post. You can ask the concrete plant for a split load, some around here do it. Be ready to work fast if the load sat at the first job.
esben57
Well-known member
I think this is being overthunk
OP
bluedog225
Well-known member
One more question related to the concrete. I’ve got ten 18” holes, 3 to 4 feet deep. Good access for a concrete truck to the site. Will the concrete guy just put the discharge chute on the holes and fill them up one by one. Or do I need to have people here with wheelbarrows to take the concrete from the truck to the holes.
And thanks everyone for the good ideas.
And thanks everyone for the good ideas.
that will probably vary by company , mood of the driver, how many holes etc. best to call the company and ask them
That's about a 1/4 yard per hole....
Calling a truck for such a small amount isn't going to make sense financially
wssix99
Well-known member
I have that Milwaukee metal-cutting circular saw. Its the perfect thing for this.
I hardly ever use it. Too bad you aren't closer and I'd cut you a great deal on it.
I hardly ever use it. Too bad you aren't closer and I'd cut you a great deal on it.
whateg01
Well-known member
2 and a half yards isn't enough?
OP
bluedog225
Well-known member
I’m misspoke. I’ve got 20 holes 10 for each solar array.
Not in my mind.
I can't remember the exact cutoff, but that's a short load, and you're definitely going to pay for it.
These are rough (and outdated) numbers. Min load is 6 yards, price is $150 per yard. So OP pays $900 for concrete. Around here there's some other charges, so he's well over $1k to fill these holes, and that assumes he's got all 10 ready to go at once
Going to be dependent on the area and ready-mix company. OP needs to make a phone call and ask what minimum yardage is, better yet, a stop by the plant would be better.
Around here 3 was the minimum.
Man that would be nice here...
The local plant is a PITA (crew I know has stopped using them it's so bad) but the short load charge is pretty much the same at the both places.
Edit: December 2024 was $180/cuyd with no additives. Delivery, relocation and short load fees on top of that ...
JuncleJohn
Well-known member
I thought solar panels were pretty light. Seems like a lot of concrete.
John
John
BurtEggley
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2024
- Messages
- 861
A 50 lb bag of fast setting concrete is about $7.50 at Lowes. An 80 lb bag of High Strength is about $6. A 50 lb of fence post concrete is $3.58. As I recall, a 12" diameter hole 36 inches deep minus a 4 x 4 x 36 takes about 2 cu feet of concrete. An 80 lb bag holds .6 cu ft of concrete. A 10" hole drilled with a 10" auger would take 1.6 cu ft. If the hole is kept to about 30" x 10" with gravel 3 inches deep (33" total) then 2 80 lb bags should be close. That is $12 a hole X 20 holes or $240. Add in a $60 wheel barrow and a shovel, and the whole thing is under $300. Using what most people would use, Fence Post Concrete mix at $3.58 @ 50 lb bag, it would take maybe 3 bags @ 50 lbs, or $10.75 per hole. Normally one puts 1/3 the post height in the ground to be 100% safe, then they add a couple inches of gravel or rocks at the bottom to help with drainage or to set the height. This makes a 10' post essentially 30" - 31" inches in the ground. It isn't going anywhere that deep in the ground unless one is in swamp muck or unstable soil.
One thing to consider is if there any chance some wayward driver or tree falling could bend those posts to where they would have to be replaced. If so consider some kind of pvc/vinyl sleeve around them so they can be jacked out and replaced with a new post. I put my redwood fence posts in such back in 1992. When I replaced the fence two years ago, each post came out of the sleeve with the exception of a couple my A-hole neighbor let water drain into those post areas for 20 years, and tree roots from trees they planted too close to the fence. One must caulk the top of the sleeve to the post to keep water out in the rainy season. Definitely cap the tops.
1/3 the post height is used for fences which have a wind load equal to the area of the fence. I would think the wind load on solar is much less so maybe even 24" would be more than enough. Check your city code incase they have something there. It could be as short as 12" to 18" if there is no wind load. Solar panels are pretty light.
One thing to consider is if there any chance some wayward driver or tree falling could bend those posts to where they would have to be replaced. If so consider some kind of pvc/vinyl sleeve around them so they can be jacked out and replaced with a new post. I put my redwood fence posts in such back in 1992. When I replaced the fence two years ago, each post came out of the sleeve with the exception of a couple my A-hole neighbor let water drain into those post areas for 20 years, and tree roots from trees they planted too close to the fence. One must caulk the top of the sleeve to the post to keep water out in the rainy season. Definitely cap the tops.
1/3 the post height is used for fences which have a wind load equal to the area of the fence. I would think the wind load on solar is much less so maybe even 24" would be more than enough. Check your city code incase they have something there. It could be as short as 12" to 18" if there is no wind load. Solar panels are pretty light.
OP
bluedog225
Well-known member
They are relatively light. It’s more of the uplift I’m concerned about as they present a lot of sail area.
I may order a pallet of concrete and set a couple of posts. If nothing else they’ll be an index for the rest of them. And I can judge how big of pain this is going to be.
The guy who is going to build a deck for me knows a concrete crew. I’ll see what he thinks.
Last edited:
Captain Spaulding
Well-known member
I’d seriously consider cutting after they are set in place. It’s very hard to get a level frame on unlevel ground unless you mark a level line on posts that are in place and cut the tops off.
threepiece
Well-known member
Indeed, too many fellows these days think they need some newfangled power tool to do something. Power tools make a process faster not possible. If you want a perfect square cut, use a hack saw, then touch up with a file and gauge with a square.
if i am not mistaken, aren’t there ‘jigs/holders’ for angle grinders to utilize one as a chop saw?