Picked this thing up for my home garage, got it installed but can't seem to get it to run clean. Running the air at 17psi and oil at 1.7psi. Tries adjusting the band with no luck. When I opened it up to check the nozzle (new) there's oil sitting on the bottom of the burn chamber and I can see specs of oil hitting the plate the flame burn stowards. No combination of air seems to stop it from doing this, I'm assuming the lack of complete burn is why I have smoke. Any suggestions?
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Cleanburn CB-90-AH help
- Thread starter summitlt
- Start date
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
I am Clean Burn dist for the state of Montana and have been doing nothing but waste oil heater sales/service for 29 years. So lets start with some simple basic things.
How large of an area are you heating ? What is the temp of the oil in the tank ? Are both heating elements working ? Preheat block temp ? Was a burner rebuild performed prior to install ?
How large of an area are you heating ? What is the temp of the oil in the tank ? Are both heating elements working ? Preheat block temp ? Was a burner rebuild performed prior to install ?
I am Clean Burn dist for the state of Montana and have been doing nothing but waste oil heater sales/service for 29 years. So lets start with some simple basic things.
How large of an area are you heating ? What is the temp of the oil in the tank ? Are both heating elements working ? Preheat block temp ? Was a burner rebuild performed prior to install ?
Heating a 30 x 36 uninsulated shop, I havent taken an actual preheater temp but its hot to the touch, oil temp was probably around 30 degrees F. I was told it had been recently rebuilt. Its got a tag that it was redone in 2018. I have no reason to believe that isnt true.
My biggest issue is the fuel spray to the back, im likely going to take the preheater out tonight and see what I find, wonder if its partially clogged making my pressure adjustments at the oil regulator off.
Last edited:
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
#1 that is way overkill for such a small shop and highly recommend you do not use it there.
Before you start taking the block out we need to take care of the basics first. With these old style burners having the oil regulator on the outside of the block and preheating not as good as the new style burners oil temp is more critical. Have the oil in the tank at a minimum of 40*. Air 12-14 psi, combustion air about 3/4" open, then adjust oil pressure by sight to proper length.
Before you start taking the block out we need to take care of the basics first. With these old style burners having the oil regulator on the outside of the block and preheating not as good as the new style burners oil temp is more critical. Have the oil in the tank at a minimum of 40*. Air 12-14 psi, combustion air about 3/4" open, then adjust oil pressure by sight to proper length.
#1 that is way overkill for such a small shop and highly recommend you do not use it there.
Before you start taking the block out we need to take care of the basics first. With these old style burners having the oil regulator on the outside of the block and preheating not as good as the new style burners oil temp is more critical. Have the oil in the tank at a minimum of 40*. Air 12-14 psi, combustion air about 3/4" open, then adjust oil pressure by sight to proper length.
Ive tried many combinations with and wasnt able to get anything to run decently. What temperature should I be looking for at the preheater? I understand the heater is overkill but it was available and I have a basically unlimited source of oil. Im running a 85,000BTU hot air furnace now and its not enough. I dont heat this shop full time.
Are you thinking the oil being too cold is why im not getting a complete burn and having raw fuel sprayed around?
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
Yes, the oil in the tank needs to be warmer.
So I tried your suggested settings and ran it off a 5 gallon bucket with oil around 65 degrees. Definitely an improvement but still smokes out the stack. One thing I did notice is that the flame looks closer to what the manual shows and has the least amount of spatter with the air band shut completely.
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
Get the firebox heated up real good to make sure all of the residual oil is completely burned off. Then check to see how clean it is burning out the stack.
What does your stovepipe setup consist of ?
What does your stovepipe setup consist of ?
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
SS, “highly recommend you do not use it.” Would you kindly detail that comment? Much obliged.
Okay, well lets start with way overkill is not good for firebox life just like with a propane/NG fired heater. Next I would look at a specific issue just for waste oil heaters which would be the preheat block. This block is always maintaining approximately 140* and if the oil is not moving through it starts to sludge and bake faster causing plugged nozzles and etc. Especially with these old style burners where the heating element is in direct contact with the oil.
I am overtired and cranky at the moment so hopefully this is some useful info.
justinthurn
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2018
- Messages
- 33
I have a lanair mx150 so I am not familiar with clean burn but am familiar with the concept. A couple things to look at. Does your chimney have a draft regulator (flap) I believe it should. Does your setup have a metering pump or an adjustable bypass valve? Have you tried burning any straight #2 fuel?
I fiddled with a lot of things that replaced a few parts on mine, but the instant I put a metering pump setup on to it it has been perfect for the last month-and-a-half that it has been installed.
If you haven't seen it before, check out the website Central Ohio heaters. Com it has a lot of information and there great to work with.
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
I fiddled with a lot of things that replaced a few parts on mine, but the instant I put a metering pump setup on to it it has been perfect for the last month-and-a-half that it has been installed.
If you haven't seen it before, check out the website Central Ohio heaters. Com it has a lot of information and there great to work with.
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
I have a lanair mx150 so I am not familiar with clean burn but am familiar with the concept. A couple things to look at. Does your chimney have a draft regulator (flap) I believe it should. Does your setup have a metering pump or an adjustable bypass valve? Have you tried burning any straight #2 fuel?
I fiddled with a lot of things that replaced a few parts on mine, but the instant I put a metering pump setup on to it it has been perfect for the last month-and-a-half that it has been installed.
If you haven't seen it before, check out the website Central Ohio heaters. Com it has a lot of information and there great to work with.
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
"Draft regulator flap" aka barometric damper can sometimes cause more issues than they worth. This particular old style heater did not come with a metered pump. They have a J-pump with an internal bypass so no need for a silly bypass valve that your off-brand heater used. It has a regulator on the burner to adjust oil pressure. Personally I am not a fan of the metered A-pump. The J-pump is a more robust pump that likes heavy oil and will have a far longer life than an A-pump.