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Cleaning 12 year old parts washer solvent

Shadowdog500

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I bought my parts washer 12 years ago and filled it with about 8 gallons of PSC 1000 solvent. Both were from tractor supply.
A week or so ago I decided to clean the fluid with one of the bag filters that northern tools sells.

Here is the 12 year old black fluid I started with and the after 13 hours of filtering. I may stop here because that’s clean enough, and I’d didn’t change that much from the 10 hour mark. Update: added photo from 19 hour mark.

C3-B7408-A-B924-450-F-AE88-B49062-EF4-D8-E.jpgC685576-A-A8-E0-44-CE-80-BA-C7-BBAB323-DA9.jpg
59962569-B22-C-4724-8-C92-D41-FE4106-FA1.jpg
First thing was to drain the parts washer and scrape the goop from the bottom of the tank.
(I’ve done this parts several times over the years.)

34178-CEF-76-BB-4-C5-F-8-ADC-6-D229-B13-A476.jpg

Then I set up the bag and turned the pump on.

F1-A6-BE67-4968-487-F-AE9-E-AF47-CFDDF3-D1.jpg

After a couple hours I had to tilt the left side of the parts washer up to keep the pump inlet submerged. I also opened the pump housing and found that it was full of crud, which I stirred up with brushes to put it back in suspension. Clean out the pump housing along with the tank next time. I’m letting the bag drain tonight, then I’m going to see how much new fluid is needed to keep the pump submerged. I still have about 2 gallons of new fluid from 12 years ago.

For the price of the bags vs the price of the fluid, I do believe this is worth doing.
AF7-BFDE7-0101-484-D-8-E4-D-8-AA21295-D233.jpg
 
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pizza

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Shadowdog500

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how much fluid does it take to fill that up? and how much does that filter cost?


45 bucks for 5 gallons? and it lasted over 10 years? that sounds piss cheap unless your cleaner takes more solvent than i'm imagining.
Yes it is cheap. Mine takes about 8 gallons to cover the pump inlet and 10 gallons to fill. So about $100 with tax to fill.

The two filters cost $87 including tax and shipping. From what I read from reviewers I can get multiple cleanings per bag, and I have one still in the box. I may Clean the fluid more frequently now that I have the bags.

If you are running the $24 a gallon stuff from NAPA the filters are a no brainer.
 
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vpd66

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I wonder what the material is that the bags are made of? I do upholstery work on the side and they don't look to difficult to make. Could make filtering a lot cheaper if you make your own bags. I also thought about paper coffee filters to clean your parts washing fluid, I usually let my parts washers set for a week or so . Then pump the fluid into 5 gallon pails (usually takes 2). I clean out the tank and put the fluid back in and top it off with new fluid (never more then a gallon) and its fairly clean. I'll have to look into using bags filters to get the fluid cleaner.
 

tester19

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I did look into this and it appears that they use diatomaceous earth in a sewn bag about 18" long and about 8" in diameter. I have a pool and have bags of diatomaceous earth for the filter. So I already have the filter media. It's not expensive and any Lowes/HD will carry it along with Walmart and Amazon.

They only list the fabric as "durable fabric" Which could be just about anything you have laying around?

So I think your idea is a good one and these could be DIY'd at a MUCH lower cost!
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Shadowdog500

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The fabric appears to be canvas and the filter itself has the heft of a heavy punching bag. Whatever is in there is pretty dense. I do wish it was smaller so I can fully close the lid when in use.

I may unstitch the top of the unused bag to see what’s in there. If the material does turn out to be something inexpensive and easily attainable, I may make a smaller refillable single use bag so I can dispose if the filtering material after each cleaning.

I decided to run the fluid through the bag again today to see how much clearer it gets.
 

dogdog

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Their northern tool website don’t have specs for that filter like how small of the particle this goes to. Few comments indicate that it is just a filter that filter debris or floating solids particles in solutions. At some point in time you will still need to buy new batch of fluids.

I think I have bought some heavy canvas from big duck a few times, they have excellent customer service there for the times I purchase from them.

 
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Shadowdog500

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… I usually let my parts washers set for a week or so . Then pump the fluid into 5 gallon pails (usually takes 2). I clean out the tank and put the fluid back in and top it off with new fluid (never more then a gallon) and its fairly clean. I'll have to look into using bags filters to get the fluid cleaner.
I do the same every few years to clean the tub. I also use small cake pans as soak tubs when cleaning a part, and let that sit for a few days to let everything settle to the bottom then slowly pour the fluid out, then wipe the pan clean with a paper towel.
 
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Shadowdog500

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I poured some of the media onto a paper plate ant took some photos using the magnifying app on my iPhone.

The last two photos used my magnifier app while holding a 7power eye loupe over the camera lens.

It looks like tiny rocks to me. The scale on the tape measure is 0.02”, the black lines and the yellow between the lines are 0.010” in width.

Anyone have an idea what this is? It don’t look like the demetrius earth that I have.

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F127-AE76-AAF7-44-A2-A993-0-C30-F94-D1-AD6.png

These have a 7 power eye loupe held over the lens.

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Shadowdog500

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Haven't some people plumbed oil filer housings into the system?
Yes, I’ve read that diesel filters work better since oil filters let all of the suspended oil pass through, and only catches the solids that already fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom.

I don’t want to modify my perfectly good parts washer to install a diesel filter if I can do this once a year or two. If Idid this every year or two it would probably be clean after a few hours.
 
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ArkTinkerer

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I think I have bought some heavy canvas from big duck a few times, they have excellent customer service there for the times I purchase from them.

For canvas the price of the smaller HF drop cloths is dirt cheap--especially when you can do the 20% off. But for this use I would think the pant legs from worn out jeans would be the way to go for both labor and price.
 

dogdog

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In chemistry they used molecular sieve to filter out or absorb the last bit of stuff.

You can see them in used ones the YouTube. Named nilesred or someone similar.

Probably something similar to that material.

 

Brandon_oma#692

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You will still need to filter it for quite a while. If you are just pumping it back into the same tank. To speed up the process. You would have to pump out a one tank into another. That way you 100% filter. When you filter back to itself. You just continue to dilute dilute dilute that's why it takes so long to 100% filter it. The clean filtered solvent mixes with the dirty.

I spent a year doing wastewater treatment and maintenance. These were 1200 gallon tanks and if you ran them back into itself you could let it run all weekend and it still wouldn't be clean. Set it up to transfer for one tank to another and you could be crystal clear in 3 hours.
 
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gregs

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Kinda surprised you haven't lost more to evaporation. The other thing that it gets contaminated with is oil and that causes it to not clean as well or flash dry clean. We have a recycling parts washer (System One) at work that uses distilation to reprocess the solvent and it leaves behind the "dirt and oil". The fluid is 100% clean and new again. When you drain the waste tank its a sludge that comes out. Sometimes you have to add some atf to the fluid when you process it so that it doesn't become a solid hard packed brick. It works extremely well and allows you to have clean solvent anytime. But even with that we lose at least 5 gallons a year to evaporation.

The system works so well I found a used "Still Clean" portable unit for my house shop.
 
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Shadowdog500

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Kinda surprised you haven't lost more to evaporation. The other thing that it gets contaminated with is oil and that causes it to not clean as well or flash dry clean. We have a recycling parts washer (System One) at work that uses distilation to reprocess the solvent and it leaves behind the "dirt and oil". The fluid is 100% clean and new again. When you drain the waste tank its a sludge that comes out. Sometimes you have to add some atf to the fluid when you process it so that it doesn't become a solid hard packed brick. It works extremely well and allows you to have clean solvent anytime. But even with that we lose at least 5 gallons a year to evaporation.

The system works so well I found a used "Still Clean" portable unit for my house shop.
I’m also surprised that more didn’t evaporate. I do keep the lid shut most of the time, and mostly put the parts in to soak for a while with the lid shut. There isn’t much scrub time after a good soak.

That still clean looks interesting but the price tag is a bit high for me.

I bought 10 gallons of fluid 12 years ago and put around 7 or 8 gallons in the washer to ensure the pump inlet was submerged. I only topped it off a couple of times to submerge the inlet with some of the leftover fluid.

I moved the filter bag to the drain shelf this morning and topped off the fluid using a gallon or so of the original 10 gallons of fluid that I bought 12 years ago. There is still some new fluid in the original jug.

I filtered the fluid for another hours 6 yesterday and it is even clearer.
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Shadowdog500

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You will still need to filter it for quite a while. If you are just pumping it back into the same tank. To speed up the process. You would have to pump out a one tank into another. That way you 100% filter. When you filter back to itself. You just continue to dilute dilute dilute that's why it takes so long to 100% filter it. The clean filtered solvent mixes with the dirty.

I spent a year doing wastewater treatment and maintenance. These were 1200 gallon tanks and if you ran them back into itself you could let it run all weekend and it still wouldn't be clean. Set it up to transfer for one tank to another and you could be crystal clear in 3 hours.
Some reviewers filtered it for 3 days before it was like new, so returning it to the same tank is a problem. My fluid didn’t start to get really clean until I pulled the lid off of the pump housing at the 7 hour mark and found that it was full of crud. Once the crud was mixed back into the solution the fluid started to clear up faster.

I did think about transferring between tanks but the pump inlet is too high. Perhaps I’ll monkey with that this weekend to see If it can make it perfectly clear in one or two passes through the bag.
 

IMCA38

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I see that Northern no longer sells these bags. Anyone know if they can be found reasonably priced elsewhere?
 

bb29510

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i saw somewhere, the guy hook a diesel filter in line with the pump
 

i4ni

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A few years back I got 5 micron filter bags from Utah Bio diesel Supply to filter some diesel fuel. They have tons of filtering supplies and have decent prices. Diesel fuel flows through 5 micron very fast.
 
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Shadowdog500

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Zep produces them. You can find them cheaper if you Google the p/n. https://zep.com/products/dyna-trap-filter-bag-903402

Thanks for the link!

The Zep site includes the MSDS for these bags.

Here is what’s inside:

IMG-3331.jpg
 
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Shadowdog500

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Fuller's earth= bentonite
and many clumping Kitty liters are bentonite...
https://iranbentoniteco.com/bentonite-clay-vs-fullers-earth-key-differences/#:~:text=Is%20Fuller's%20Earth%20and%20Bentonite,detoxifying%20and%20deep%20cleansing%20properties.

No, Fuller's Earth and bentonite clay are not the same, though they are often confused. While both are natural clays with absorbent properties, they differ in their mineral composition and origin.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Fuller's Earth:
  • Composition: Primarily made of palygorskite (also known as attapulgite) and other clay minerals.

  • Origin: Formed from volcanic ash and other volcanic materials.

  • Properties: Known for its ability to absorb oil and dirt, and used in applications like soapmaking, skin care, and decontaminating skin.
Bentonite Clay:
  • Composition: Composed primarily of montmorillonite.

  • Origin: Formed from volcanic ash.

  • Properties: Known for its high plasticity and ability to swell when wet, making it useful in various applications like cat litter, construction, and even as a natural remedy for skin conditions.
Key Differences:
  • Mineral Composition:
    Fuller's Earth contains palygorskite and other clay minerals, while bentonite is primarily made of montmorillonite.

  • Origin:
    Both are formed from volcanic ash, but the specific geological formations and processes differ.

  • Properties:
    Fuller's Earth is non-plastic and absorbs oil, while bentonite is highly plastic and absorbs water, swelling significantly.
 

Stick-man

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Great thread, thanks. I will do this when my solvent gets dirty. I recently bought a used Snap-on parts washer and put 15 gals of PSC1000. In the drain I have tried multiple types of filters to try to keep the solids from going in the tank. All were sort of scotch brite pad type of material. They quickly clogged up to the point it wasn't even worth the effort.
Does anyone know of a material that would work better for filtering the drain? Or should I just let it fly and use the filter bag years down the road?
 

545_days

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https://iranbentoniteco.com/bentonite-clay-vs-fullers-earth-key-differences/#:~:text=Is%20Fuller's%20Earth%20and%20Bentonite,detoxifying%20and%20deep%20cleansing%20properties.

No, Fuller's Earth and bentonite clay are not the same, though they are often confused. While both are natural clays with absorbent properties, they differ in their mineral composition and origin.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Fuller's Earth:
  • Composition: Primarily made of palygorskite (also known as attapulgite) and other clay minerals.

  • Origin: Formed from volcanic ash and other volcanic materials.

  • Properties: Known for its ability to absorb oil and dirt, and used in applications like soapmaking, skin care, and decontaminating skin.
Bentonite Clay:
  • Composition: Composed primarily of montmorillonite.

  • Origin: Formed from volcanic ash.

  • Properties: Known for its high plasticity and ability to swell when wet, making it useful in various applications like cat litter, construction, and even as a natural remedy for skin conditions.
Key Differences:
  • Mineral Composition:
    Fuller's Earth contains palygorskite and other clay minerals, while bentonite is primarily made of montmorillonite.

  • Origin:
    Both are formed from volcanic ash, but the specific geological formations and processes differ.

  • Properties:
    Fuller's Earth is non-plastic and absorbs oil, while bentonite is highly plastic and absorbs water, swelling significantly.
Good to know. All I knew was that bentonite is used in many clumping car litters. Bentonite's ability or lack thereof to separate oil from solvents is beyond me.
 
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Shadowdog500

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Great thread, thanks. I will do this when my solvent gets dirty. I recently bought a used Snap-on parts washer and put 15 gals of PSC1000. In the drain I have tried multiple types of filters to try to keep the solids from going in the tank. All were sort of scotch brite pad type of material. They quickly clogged up to the point it wasn't even worth the effort.
Does anyone know of a material that would work better for filtering the drain? Or should I just let it fly and use the filter bag years down the road?

I could be wrong, but I thought that even the old Snap On parts washers had built in filtration that filters the fluid as soon as it goes down the drain. They use a mud bucket filter that is at the top of the drum and under the tub. The filter is expensive but can be cleaned out and reused. There are non Snap-On ones that appear identical but are about half the price.


IMG-4961.jpg
 
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