Piper
Well-known member
Picked up a huge (150lb) anvil at auction this weekend. Slight amount of dirt/rust/gunge on it. Any proven techniques for cleaning other than the obvious grey sanding pad and some simple green ??
Piper
Piper
cleaning anvil?
- Thread starter Piper
- Start date
Junkman
Well-known member
Put it outside and spray it down with Greased Lightning. A light scrub with some fine steel wool, and a final rinse. Best to leave a slight oil coating on it so it doesn't rust. Mine spent most of the summer in front of the garage on a large tree stump and never rusted. I put it away before we went on vacation so it wouldn't get stolen. It is amazing the strength of a thief nowadays. 
ovilla
Well-known member
Get a wire wheel that will fit into your cordless drill and then go to town on that thing. You'll have it clean and shiny in no time. If you want to spend some money to make it even nicer, drop it off at a body shop and ask them to sand blast it.
Junkman
Well-known member
It's an anvil, not a piece of decoration for the living room. It is supposed to be black, not shiny metal....
I'm a BIG fan of wire cups on angle grinders for cleaning metal.
I have a foot-long piece of rail road rail I use for an anvil. It was understandably nasty when I got it.
I spent about 30 minutes with the wire cup and got it completely clean. The wire cup really sort of burnishes the metal.
For all the non-working surfaces (the sides and ends) I painted it with red rustoleum spray paint, because rust breeds.
For the work surface, I never did anything to it--just left it the burnished metal.
In 10 years of Florida and Georgia humidity, the top of the rail has never rusted at all.
The painted sides keep it clean and rust-free, which keeps things cleaner overall in the shop.
If the anvil were mine, I'd burnish the whole thing with a wire wheel on a grinder. I MIGHT paint the non-work surfaces with flat black or semi-gloss Rustoleum.
-Brad
I have a foot-long piece of rail road rail I use for an anvil. It was understandably nasty when I got it.
I spent about 30 minutes with the wire cup and got it completely clean. The wire cup really sort of burnishes the metal.
For all the non-working surfaces (the sides and ends) I painted it with red rustoleum spray paint, because rust breeds.
For the work surface, I never did anything to it--just left it the burnished metal.
In 10 years of Florida and Georgia humidity, the top of the rail has never rusted at all.
The painted sides keep it clean and rust-free, which keeps things cleaner overall in the shop.
If the anvil were mine, I'd burnish the whole thing with a wire wheel on a grinder. I MIGHT paint the non-work surfaces with flat black or semi-gloss Rustoleum.
-Brad
1320stang
Well-known member
Piper, mind if I ask what you paid for it?
I want one, I have an aformentioned piece of railroad tie that I have yet to form or work on, it'a about 16"-18" long.
I want one, I have an aformentioned piece of railroad tie that I have yet to form or work on, it'a about 16"-18" long.
I got it for $100.00. the Bidding started, by me, at $25 and went up by 5's until about $60. The owner of the place was there and I felt it insulting that it was that low. I went from 60 to 100 and that was it. Came with a 4 lb ball peen hammer and 24" dia maple log for use as a table. It's about 24" long from point to back edge. I'm pretty strong but I couldn't lift this thing without help. Granted an awkward lift without any natural sort of handles on it but I'd expect it's about 175 to 200 lbs. I'll take a pic when I get it cleaned up.
Piper
Piper
warrent
Well-known member
You should not really clean an anvil. If you use it, the top will remain shiney along with the horn. If anything just take a hand wire brush and knock off the loose stuff. Painting is a waste of time because the hot slag will burn off the paint. Also remember an anvil is to be used with hot metal only.
Palmetto
Well-known member
I would put one of these on my grinder,
then finish off with one of these on my grinder,
This will get all the rust and scale off, and give you a nice clean finish to work off of.
then finish off with one of these on my grinder,
This will get all the rust and scale off, and give you a nice clean finish to work off of.
Stang,
A railroad "tie" is the wood beam that goes under the tracks. I think you meant you have a piece of railroad iron (track).
1320stang
Well-known member
You're right, I meant rail.
c39er
Well-known member
I would be more interested in what kind of anvil it was. How many lbs- weight is stamped on most all anvils. Who was the manufacturer and the steel ball bounce test. How good is the top plate ect. There is good info on the web about anvils. $100.00 was cheap as long as it is not a newer china anvil. An anvil is to be used not to be prettied up!
Bob
Bob
Printer Mike
Well-known member
It's always nice to start with a clean slate with used tools.....Then get your own crud and stuff on 'em.....
stangkid14
Well-known member
wire wheel and lint seed oil......
so I found out that I've purchased a Pete Wright Anvil, with a weight of 1-3-18 which works out to 214 lbs. It's info is herehttp://www.blackiron.us/anvil-types.html Apparently he started making anvils in 1850 so this thing is potentially quite old ! Cool!!
rburke65
Well-known member
OK, I'll bite. How do you arrive at a weight of 214 lbs. from 1-3-18?
How about some pictures?
Wow, that thing has grown 64lbs. since the first post. You better stop feeding it before it gets huge!
Seriously, a Peter Wright anvil is a quality piece. Congratulations!
kf4zht
Well-known member
You got a great deal for a peter wright at less than .50 a pound. Normally they go for up to $2/lb. I have been looking for a good one for a while, I may end up getting a piece of rail for now.
Frank Elson
Well-known member
You know, I never even considered cleaning up my anvil until I read this thread.
It's just a big brown (rusty) lump with a very clean head where it gets hit a lot...
It's just a big brown (rusty) lump with a very clean head where it gets hit a lot...
G1K
Well-known member
Crud cutter (found at HD and lowes). I have a piece of old iron with 60+ years of gunk, the crud cutter cleaned it off with little to no effort. Next, scotchbtire with ATF (automatic ****** fluid), will look almost new.
R
R