Most of my garage work is based on wrench on cars, mostly my own. Something I'm trying to find a smarter tool/idea for is cleaning bolts. I try to get all the crud off of them before reinstalling. I use a pipe cleaner type of thing to clean the bolt hole (combined with Simple Green). I use a small wire brush for the bolts themselves but I wanted to be sure there wasn't a better/easier way. Not that this is hard...I just think there's a wealth of simple tricks on this forum.
Cleaning bolts
- Thread starter DakotaMan
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2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Thread chasers clean up the important bits quite well, getting out light rust or old thread sealants. Hit the ends with a wire wheel if you're feeling motivated.
fatfillup
Well-known member
Wire wheel here also. Thread chasers are great idea for cleaning the holes.
Little parts washer for degreasing would work well also
Little parts washer for degreasing would work well also
bmwpowere36m3
Well-known member
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- Nov 8, 2012
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First, why are you cleaning bolt holes? Besides head bolts/studs, it a rarity for me. Second, is the hardware you cleaning really grimy/oily/greasy?
Light surface oxidation/corrosion I leave well enough alone. Heavy, then I'll replace hardware. A wire-wheel "works" well to clean up rusty hardware, but the fastener will corrode again unless protected. I'd rather just put in a new fastener if its that bad.
For really grimy hardware (usually due to a leak nearby), I use a part washer or a tote with some diesel/kerosene/mineral spirits. It its light grime a blast of brake cleaner... really depends on my level of OCDness.
Light surface oxidation/corrosion I leave well enough alone. Heavy, then I'll replace hardware. A wire-wheel "works" well to clean up rusty hardware, but the fastener will corrode again unless protected. I'd rather just put in a new fastener if its that bad.
For really grimy hardware (usually due to a leak nearby), I use a part washer or a tote with some diesel/kerosene/mineral spirits. It its light grime a blast of brake cleaner... really depends on my level of OCDness.
APEowner
Well-known member
I clean the bolt holes because there's oil/grease/dirt/etc in the threads. I am no mechanic or machinist but I'd tend to believe that such debris shouldn't be there. I notice when I clean the holes out the bolts turn easier (as they logically should).
It's not so much rust as it is grease, grime, and dirt. I don't have a parts washer outside of a 5 gallon bucket with simple green and a spray hose. It tends to work okay...just curious if there was a smarter way.
I may invest in a wire wheel for my bench grinder. My current one isn't variable speed so that may be my next quest.
66HertzClone
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You might consider something like this. No doubt the wire wheel will work but you will also loose some skin from the tips of your fingers and launch a couple of the bolts across the garage. These can be found at many places and there are several choices for the medium used to do the cleaning.
bmwrd0
Well-known member
For larger bolts, wire wheel is great, but for a bunch of small ones, a tumblr. If they are really bad, replace.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
^^This. I use a wire wheel on my bench grinder for about 90% of the bolt thread. Occasionally if I am planning on painting them I will throw them in my basket and hit them with the glass beads but once you get proficient with the wire wheel it is quite fast and easy to clean threads.
Mike.
I usually just spray the holes out with spray lube and a blow gun. I've seen guys cut the end of a rifle cleaning kit and chuck it in a drill motor with a bore brush and clean holes that way if they are full of dirt/rust, but if there was a bolt in there previously it is pretty much unnecessary. wire wheel on the bench grinder for the bolt is all I ever do. wear safety glasses and get used to skinned fingers when you slip and a bolt goes flying...
sberry
Banned
I agree, wire wheel on a bench grinder has been standard for decades. Little non specialty stuff which cant be simply stuck back in often gets tossed and replaced with new.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
A wire wheel on a bench grinder works well, but I get a great results from an ultra sonic cleaner, and I don't have to worry about skinned hands and flying parts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html
davethorik
Well-known member
All you guys injuring yourself wire wheeling bolt threads...have you ever heard of vise grips? Lol
bmwpowere36m3
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No I agree about having clean threads, but I rarely find "dirty" bolt holes... how are they dirty if a fasteners was in there? If anything, it'll have traces of loctite or anti-seize.
As far as cleaning grimy hardware of oil/grease/dirt it depends... anything from spraying each one, to dipping/brushing in a small container, basket and pressure washer, to an ultrasonic cleaner.
If I had a LOT of hardware to clean or was doing it relatively often, I'd get a small ultrasonic cleaner. Heat up the fluid, dump the hardware in, walk away for an hour and enjoy
No need for variable speed bench grinder... wire wheel is cheap, but I wouldn't use it primary to clean "grimy" hardware. Rusty and oxidized, yes.
velillen01
Well-known member
For the one or two bolts needing cleaning it depends. If just rusty Ill use the wire wheel. If grimey/oily Ill wipe them off then wire wheel.
When its a bunch of them Ill clean them with the ultrasonic first, then toss them in the vibratory tumbler.
If they are really rusty and I cant replace (or replacing is expensive) Ill use my stainless steel pin tumbler and just run them through twice (once to get the big **** off and once for a final cleaning)
When its a bunch of them Ill clean them with the ultrasonic first, then toss them in the vibratory tumbler.
If they are really rusty and I cant replace (or replacing is expensive) Ill use my stainless steel pin tumbler and just run them through twice (once to get the big **** off and once for a final cleaning)
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Woz
Well-known member
The ultra sonic cleaner will get the hardware as clean as new parts without risking your fingers and works while you are doing other things. The trick is to place the hardware a plastic cup with the cleaning agent and then put the cup into the cleaner bowl filled with water. This will minimize the amount of cleaner needed and eliminate the need to clean the ultra sonic bowl.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
Pitalplace
Well-known member
I restore antique farm machinery. Currently it is a 1930 John Deere corn sheller. The bolts are all the old square head and pretty much impossible to replace. I save all bolts from any machinery that is junked for these projects. I have cleaned 100's just for this project so I had to laugh when I see so many others use the wire wheel. I have hours in front of the grinder. It is setting so the flying bolts can be easily found and I wear a tight pair of rubberized gloves. The gloves don't stop the glazed fingers but it does minimize the damage. Vice grips do help on the smaller screws but I find that I rarely use them. I run the threads if necessary and back in the machine.
I'm restoring an old milling machine. Here's what I do:
1) quick brush off with old tooth brush
2) bathe in purple power to degrease. Most will come out of this bath looking like new. wire wheels destroy finishes like CAD. I don't think purple power does. Most times, I coat the fastener in 3 in 1 oil and re-install. Only detail is sometimes the purple power works in a few minutes, sometimes an hour, sometimes its best to leave them soak over night.
3) If they are rusty, they go into Evaporust (again, no mechanical processes) Out of Evaporust, they come out grayish, but completely rust free.
4) Chances are if they rusted, their original finish is gone or never existed. In those cases they go into another dip process - Brownell's Oxpho cold bluing. Caswell plating make a similar product. In a minute or 2 they come out black. If you leave them, they can turn brownish- that wipes off with an oil soaked cloth or paper towel.
5) Last dip is often 3 in 1 or WD-40. For parts that get handled, I sometimes wax with shoe polish.
Here are the fasteners in process. You can do a pile as easily as one or two.
This is the result. Mill is a 1967 Series I Bridgeport
1) quick brush off with old tooth brush
2) bathe in purple power to degrease. Most will come out of this bath looking like new. wire wheels destroy finishes like CAD. I don't think purple power does. Most times, I coat the fastener in 3 in 1 oil and re-install. Only detail is sometimes the purple power works in a few minutes, sometimes an hour, sometimes its best to leave them soak over night.
3) If they are rusty, they go into Evaporust (again, no mechanical processes) Out of Evaporust, they come out grayish, but completely rust free.
4) Chances are if they rusted, their original finish is gone or never existed. In those cases they go into another dip process - Brownell's Oxpho cold bluing. Caswell plating make a similar product. In a minute or 2 they come out black. If you leave them, they can turn brownish- that wipes off with an oil soaked cloth or paper towel.
5) Last dip is often 3 in 1 or WD-40. For parts that get handled, I sometimes wax with shoe polish.
Here are the fasteners in process. You can do a pile as easily as one or two.
This is the result. Mill is a 1967 Series I Bridgeport
For small projects a bucket with a lid with Totally Awesome cleaner or an ultrasonic cleaner, my current Nissan I'm swapping motors on I just pulled all the bolts and took them to a local shop and had em cleaned and zinc coated for a few bucks
mrborohachi
Well-known member
Thread Wizard video. I literally just glanced at the Thread Wizard on a MAC truck no more than 30min ago. I wondered what the hell a plastic stick with holes in a plate of sheet metal was for, let alone 2 of them one with a blue handle and the other with a red handle.
My new method is using a brass wire wheel and a:
NOS variable transformer I picked up from a garage sale. It was Made in Japan for Radio Shack Tandy.
One could make ^one of these with a salvaged house light dimming setup.
My new method is using a brass wire wheel and a:
NOS variable transformer I picked up from a garage sale. It was Made in Japan for Radio Shack Tandy.
One could make ^one of these with a salvaged house light dimming setup.
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
My Dad saved every nut and bolt he found. I hated sorting through the boxes and jars to find 4 bolts and nuts that were the same size.
I have a reasonable assortment of NEW nuts and washer from #6 up to 1/2". A fair number of machine screws/sheet metal screws, #6 - #12. Very few bolts 1/4" - 1/2". Just not enough space to store them.
I have a reasonable assortment of NEW nuts and washer from #6 up to 1/2". A fair number of machine screws/sheet metal screws, #6 - #12. Very few bolts 1/4" - 1/2". Just not enough space to store them.
Empty Pockets
Well-known member
Unless the nuts and bolts are a special size or design, I generally just replace them with new. In the event they are not something I have on the shelf, then the sonic cleaner is the answer
sberry
Banned
We started off with a few bolts when I was a kid and then an uncle that worked for Ford in supply could buy from them at cost and we had a huge rack of stuff for a long time. Buying new now is just a cost of doing the work. I buy the pounds at the farm store most of the time, stock some stuff in grade 2 and 5.
Agree...and will add...Brass brush also can also help keep the threads clean and well shaped.
To the people who don't understandy why you clean hardware, two good answers are threadlocker...and torque control. Blind bolt holes are the same logic...same reason you clean out swarf when tapping or chasing. Alot of time sometimes is added on these steps, so its not for everyone or every job.
But there are times when going by the book is the correct way to do things.
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PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I use a 6" Diameter crimped wire wheel in my drill press. it's a lot easier to see what you are doing than a bench grinder. Also, you can run it at lower speed so it doesn't rip the bolt out of your hand and throw it across the shop... I set mine to run about 6" above the table so I can rest my hands on the table and twist and turn the bolt to clean it and inspect my progress.
For tougher to clean bolts, I just tighten the head in my drill press vise and use it to push the bolt into the spinning wheel.
Wear eye protection.
For tougher to clean bolts, I just tighten the head in my drill press vise and use it to push the bolt into the spinning wheel.
Wear eye protection.
I use them if I'm grinding something down like a washer that will get hot and burn my fingers, but for nuts and bolts it's not worth the effort. ruin the threads if you clamp it there, or if you clamp the head, you can't clean it fully. just takes too much time. besides, chicks dig scars...
Big parts washer has buckets to hang in it to clean bolts. A few years ago I cleaned and sorted half a dozen too big to lift boxes of junk nuts and bolts, dumped the worst and sent the rest out for replating. Took a couple years to use them up.
Smaller batches I spray with WD40 and use a rag or brush to get the worst off, then into a storage box until I need it and clean it up a bit more.
Smaller batches I spray with WD40 and use a rag or brush to get the worst off, then into a storage box until I need it and clean it up a bit more.
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
Ding Ding Ding...
mrborohachi
Well-known member
Just got a 7700 MAC Tools catalog and saw these brushes. I'm pretty sure I saw the same thing at Lowes.
Link for the brushes, available in brass too
http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Pages/Search.aspx?k=bore%20brush#Default=%7B%22k%22%3A%22bore%20brush%22%2C%22o%22%3A%5B%7B%22d%22%3A1%2C%22p%22%3A%22Rank%22%7D%5D%7D#d=g
Link for the brushes, available in brass too
http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Pages/Search.aspx?k=bore%20brush#Default=%7B%22k%22%3A%22bore%20brush%22%2C%22o%22%3A%5B%7B%22d%22%3A1%2C%22p%22%3A%22Rank%22%7D%5D%7D#d=g
Holy truck brand mark up batman. Go to Astro and buy the entire kit for almost the price of one set of 4.
https://www.zoro.com/astro-pneumati...rW3GIglrWtqZTqGjwrNTYPMT0tJKNBnf2UaAlMB8P8HAQ
timbitca
Well-known member
Bench grinder + wire wheel + long nose vise grips
To clean the nut I thread it onto the bolt and run it on the bench grinder taking care to not unscrew it and send it flying. Bolt head then gets the same treatment, clamp the vise grips on the now cleaned nut.
To clean the nut I thread it onto the bolt and run it on the bench grinder taking care to not unscrew it and send it flying. Bolt head then gets the same treatment, clamp the vise grips on the now cleaned nut.
mrborohachi
Well-known member
cdeer001
Well-known member
A more complete set: Neiko 00325A 38 Piece Industrial Quality Wire Hex Shank Brush Set
Syberia
Well-known member
I fail to see how an online blog is going to help him clean bolts
MikeF2316
Well-known member
I like this idea. I've used bench grinder/wire wheel combo, but that is faster than necessary.