Cleaning old / abused tools.

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I have read some of the cleaning threads on here about using Evapo-Rust, Scotch-Brite, etc.

What kind of results could one expect with something like the below?

 

[thebeekeeper1]

I've done that many times, and for that I would put it straight into the Evapo-Rust. If it were worse I use a wire wheel on a grinder, but that will clean up nicely with E-R.

Keep in mind it can only convert the rust, and obviously will not replace the chrome. It will be a perfectly useable tool though.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

It will be a perfectly useable tool though.

You seem... familiar.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

[Initiating arf secret handshake.]


I can see that I will have to get a gallon of E-R. I am wanting to build up a 3/4" and 1" socket set, but they don't have to be pretty.

 

[BeaterGoat]

Dr.JF, a less expensive route to take instead of Evapo-Rust would be putting it in a container (with a lid) and filling it with apple cider
vinegar. I have done this many times on rusted
tools and I'm amazed at how well it works. Follow up with scotch brite/steel wool of course and oil it occasionally.

 

[treimers]

Dr.JF, a less expensive route to take instead of Evapo-Rust would be putting it in a container (with a lid) and filling it with apple cider
vinegar. I have done this many times on rusted
tools and I'm amazed at how well it works. Follow up with scotch brite/steel wool of course and oil it occasionally.

Yup -

We had a big argument over on Yahoo's Shopsmith forums about that

Several of us finally did experiments to see what vinegar would do.

As always, the vinegar is NOT going to prevent future rusting,
which EvapoRust will (try) to do...

Here are a couple of pictures to show what can be done with vinegar.

 

[Farmall450]

Very impressive indeed...!

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Here are a couple of pictures to show what can be done with vinegar.

That is mighty interesting.

As for preventing rust, I am not above priming and painting wrenches and handles in these bigger sizes.

I have never painted the inside of a socket and I don't know how that would work out.

 

[ken w.]

If I had that tool I would just wire wheel and oil it. I but tools like that every weekend at garage / estate sales. If your using it just the oil on your hands and the grease on the vehicle will protect this.

 

[rick carpenter]

Clean it in the liquid of your choice, but vinegar and diluted molasses are two solutions I've used and are cheap. Some here have said vinegar with some salt in it work great but I've not tried that yet.

Looks like what you have is an extension. I have a 1/2 drive 6" extension that I soaked in molasses. That kept the surviving chrome on but yours looks like most of the chrome is toast. What you can do is put the extension onto one of those square drive adapters that "converts" an impact driver to an impact wrench. Spin that adapter in a drill with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and get it as smooth as possible. Then keep oiled.

 

[4BT]

Straight white vinegar, stainless wire brush; rinse with water and wd40 coat

 

[Jeff May]

has anyone tried "THE WORKS" bathroom cleaner?
I use it on a lot of rusted and stained metals. I usually lay the item in an old cake pan and pour it over the item. Use and old brush and scotchbrite after a few minutes you can see it cleaning up.
I use it a lot on my 2 cycle racing exhaust pipes, they look new after a few minutes of cleaning.
Two things though, the part has to be washed and dried right away and oiled down, or the rust will start appearing within minutes.
Also, use this stuff outside, the fumes, while not all that bad to smell will settle in your shop and rust everything that is not oiled or protected.
This is pretty heavy duty stuff, it works good for my applications.

 

[WhyMe]

wire wheel and oil is what i would do.

 

[jjjrmx5]

Straight white vinegar, stainless wire brush; rinse with water and wd40 coat

I do the same except when rinsing use a cold water filled bucket with a good glob of baking soda stirred into it well. Plop tools in for a minute or two.

Then I rince with plain water.

The baking soda neutralizes the vinegar's acid which helps to slow or stop a lot of the flash rust that occurs once the tools dry. If using evaporust, obvioulsy it woun't be a problem.

I use a blow gun to get most of the water out and then spray or wipe down with wd-40, 3 in 1 or tool oil depending upon what I have on hand.

Cheap and easy although if heavily corroded, the vinegar bath can take a few days.

Still wrapping up a batch today.

 

[jmm]

I've done everything short of electrolysis to used tools. For something like that which is perfectly functional as is, that you just want touched-up a little, I'd go the easiest way: naval jelly or vinegar rag. Neither require submersion. With naval jelly, just give it a heavy coat of the pink stuff and a place to sit a while. Then wash it off in the sink and hit it with some oil. Or soak a rag in vinegar, wrap up the tool for a while, then rinse and coat it. I prefer total submersion when I have several items to work with...it takes a while and often uses a lot of rust-stripper.

My thoughts on materials -- evaporust is the best (and it's priced accordingly). It strips just as well as the others, but it protects against rust too. Vinegar is very good, but it takes some time. The naval jelly is good because it works okay and is very easy. The same could be said of molasses (used just like naval jelly), but it's obviously a pain because of how sticky the stuff is.

 

[wafrederick]

I use the apple cider vinegar so many times,leave them in the container to soak 3 to 4 days.I use a container that is used for this only.Write on the container not for food use.

 

[jjjrmx5]

I use the apple cider vinegar so many times,leave them in the container to soak 3 to 4 days.I use a container that is used for this only.Write on the container not for food use.

Label not for food use?

LOLOLOL.
Ewwww.

I buy old clear plastic shoe boxes found at the $1 store or at garage sales and use those.
Lid fits slightly loose to allow gasses to escape or cover in cling film and then lid for air tight.

Cheap, thick and are long enough to fit most tools outside of long wrenches and files.

No scare of using for food at any point either.
Just a thought.

 

[Rickster]

I would use Mag Wheel Paste cleaner on a light schotchbrite, then buff.

 

[Duct Tape Man]

Chrome parts - Evapo-Rust has worked well for me.

Straight metal parts - beadblast. Nothing better.

Parkerized/painted - if I wish to keep the finish that's left, Evapo-Rust. If not, in the cabinet and blast away.

 

[jmm]

Label not for food use?

LOLOLOL.
Ewwww.

I buy old clear plastic shoe boxes found at the $1 store or at garage sales and use those.
Lid fits slightly loose to allow gasses to escape or cover in cling film and then lid for air tight.

Cheap, thick and are long enough to fit most tools outside of long wrenches and files.

No scare of using for food at any point either.
Just a thought.

If you have something especially long, put a box together (2x4s, cardboard, whatever's lying around) and drape a piece of heavy plastic over it. With some ingenenuity and enough plastic you can accomodate any size or shape tool. That's how I do big wrenches or parts that won't fit in one of my dollar store boxes.

 

[Aberdale]

I've used the vinegar method and it works okay, but it's slow. I recently tried Muratic acid and think it does everything that vinegar does but faster. Instead of leaving it in vinegar for 3 or 4 days, the Muratic acid only takes 3 or 4 hours. Same results. And the Muratic acid is still a lot cheaper than Evaporust.

I'm even using the Muratic acid to clean out rusty gas tanks.

I still neutralize with baking soda afterwards.



'dale

 

[rick carpenter]

I soaked a speeder drive in a little bit of diluted molasses. Can you see it?

 

[kwblack]

Citric acid. Find it in the canning section at your local grocery store. It's a powder, just pour into water and walk off. Next day and done. OWWM guys use it.

 

[mikegt4]

For those in the IN,OH,IL,MI area, Rural King (similar to Tractor Supply) carries Evapo-Rust in the automotive area, $16/gal. everyday.

 

[RivennHewn]

Remove the rust however you like, but to keep it off, I use Penetrol.

Mostly know as a paint additive, it works great for a very thin micro coating on metal.

Architects spec it all the time for I-beams and other steel members when they are to be left raw.

http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php

 

[thebeekeeper1]

For those in the IN,OH,IL,MI area, Rural King (similar to Tractor Supply) carries Evapo-Rust in the automotive area, $16/gal. everyday.

I have a Rural King not far away--thanks for the info!

 

[03protege]

Can someone explain the chemistry of why these known acidic compounds that will generally rust metal can be used to remove rust?

 

[DrivewayDave]

For long straight tools a plastic flower planter box works good.

 

[jjjrmx5]

For long straight tools a plastic flower planter box works good.

I use the same idea and buy used long drywall mudder handheld mud troughs that drywall installers use for mudding.

I find them in grey plastic 12", 18" and 24" lengths and they look like mini flower boxer. Put cling flim on top and hold it on with a rubber band or tape.

Done.

Work like a charm and cheap as %$^$#.