I have a few spots where a vehicle sat that was an oil dripper and some from building an engine that need cleaned well prior to applying epoxy. I've used a pressure washer, citrus cleaner from Lowes and now Dawn dishwashing liquid with a scrub brush and it still repels water in a few spots. Any suggestions on how to clean these before etching and coating with epoxy?
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Cleaning prep for epoxy - oily areas
- Thread starter srode
- Start date
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Lightly grind.
Will heavy etching achieve the same thing as grinding? I picked up 3 gallons of Muratic acid from lowes to use in addition to what came with the kit. If not, any thoughts on locally available material for grinding lightly?
how about wiping with Acetone?
how about wiping with Acetone?
Last edited:
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Heck no. Acid will do absolutely nothing to oil or grease.
A carborundum wheel for your angle grinder or drill is the least expensive.
Just lightly grind it until the stain is gone. If you are going to use a premium epoxy kit you shouldn't notice it.
A carborundum wheel for your angle grinder or drill is the least expensive.
Just lightly grind it until the stain is gone. If you are going to use a premium epoxy kit you shouldn't notice it.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I have had excellent results with Greased Lightening and Drive Up. Pour/spritz some on the area, scrub in lightly with a broom, let dry over night. Rinse with a garden hose. It might take 2 or 3 applications.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
I have a related similar question. If I grind the entire floor, will that be all the surface prep I need fro an epoxy coat, or do I still need to prep with the acid provided in most kits?
A grind is all that you'll need to do. If you don't have access to a quality vacuum you need to wash off the dust. No need to acid etch, unless you're a "suspenders and belt" type of ArtGirl.
I have had excellent results with Greased Lightening and Drive Up. Pour/spritz some on the area, scrub in lightly with a broom, let dry over night. Rinse with a garden hose. It might take 2 or 3 applications.
I picked up some Drive up today on the way home - I'll try it out and let folks know how it works on these tough spots. Thanks for the suggestions folks!
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Grinding will not remove oil.....
GO to a mason supply house and look for Prosoco Poultice....
http://www.prosoco.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID={E7D90416-D713-472F-ADDD-3C2ED6B4ED15}
Grind the floor, then apply poultice as per directions, then apply your choice of whatever floor product you want.......good luck!
GO to a mason supply house and look for Prosoco Poultice....
http://www.prosoco.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID={E7D90416-D713-472F-ADDD-3C2ED6B4ED15}
Grind the floor, then apply poultice as per directions, then apply your choice of whatever floor product you want.......good luck!
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Grinding will not remove oil.....
GO to a mason supply house and look for Prosoco Poultice....
http://www.prosoco.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID={E7D90416-D713-472F-ADDD-3C2ED6B4ED15}
Grind the floor, then apply poultice as per directions, then apply your choice of whatever floor product you want.......good luck!
Fernando, if it has not soaked through the slab and is sitting on the surface it will work. I did this on a floor we helped prep last year, worked like a charm. Worst case scenario, you may have to prime the area with some HD110(100% solids epoxy resin) liquids and a little sand. A better bet than concrete with oil residue still in it.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Look, it's simple, none of us there to determine how much oil is on or how deep it has penetrated. Grind prep the floor and add water to the suspected area to see if it beads up or not. If it does, then try your hand at some lacquer thinner...if that doesn't work, there is no better product then poultice.
rburke65
Well-known member
One expert says grind the other says "No". One says use this, the other says "it's ****'. No wonder this is so confusing! I think I'm going to lay some carpet.
Well, I ended up using Acetone and a scrub brush head on a broom handle - seemed to work very welll! Time will tell after the job is done and I can see how well it holds up. The first half (430 square feet) is drying now, got it done last night. This morning it looks like I'm going to need to use a leaf blower or hair drier or something on the saw cuts in the slab eo get it to dry faster, there's a wet line at each of them. Looks like it's going to be this evening before I appy the epoxy at this rate.
I may end up renting a grinder for the second half to get it to go faster.
I may end up renting a grinder for the second half to get it to go faster.
sooperdave
Well-known member
Try degreaser, let it sit for 10-15 mins, scrub the stains, them pressure wash
thegarageguy
Well-known member
One expert says grind the other says "No". One says use this, the other says "it's ****'. No wonder this is so confusing! I think I'm going to lay some carpet.
Yes, there are many ways to skin a cat, but throwing your hands up and giving up is not an option, or at least not for me anyways.
We've used lacquer successfully and have even torched it with good results. But nothing has worked as well as poultice for us so far.
Just FYI, there isn't ever one solution, especially working on a porous, breathable and sometimes moving slab. What works on one slab may not work on another. Take our advice as just that, advice, not gospel.