Cleaning REAL rusty wrenches

[saigon66]

G/DAY are there any Aussies here I have not seen evaporust here, will CLR DO THE JOB

 

[kenncr]

just need to find a way to clean rusty wrenches

 

[moogoob]

This is the thread that introduces me to Evaporust. It works wonders and cant sing its praises loud enough. I actually have some c-clamps from today's craigslist find soaking now.

 

[doan]

How does Evaporust effect the grey coatings coating? Chrome?

chrome will be fine. The black coating on impact tools will be gone, don't use it on those unless really necessary. Other non-chrome steel like needle-nose pliers will darken.

Pretty much everything you put in evaporust will need a light buffing when you take it out, fine steel wool or wire wheel depending on what it is and how bad it was.

 

[pauls_workshop]

What I do for old hand tools after derusting, when they have eaten through the chrome badly, is spray paint them with a good primer like a Rustoleum. This provides the protective anti-corrosion layer that the chrome used to do. I'm not into maintainance, constantly spraying or oiling all my old tools. A little paint is good for 10 years or more without having to give them another thought. Now I wouldn't do that to an extremely collectible tool, but if the chrome is gone or the tool is rough from corrosion anyway, paint is your friend. - Paul

 

[XxToolAholicxX]

Very well said. Every tool has its own history behind it.



I am a Toolaholic,Sometimes I regret it,Especially when the Toolman won't give me no credit

 

[XxToolAholicxX]

I'm not going to start a flame war with you here. I have MY reasons for restoring these old tools using whatever method I feel will get the job done in the way I feel it needs to be done.

My reason for restoring them as many. I'll start with their connection to the past. History, you know, things that happened long ago. In my case, WWII, Korea and the cold war. These tools helped the world fight a war or two.

Connection to my father. I consider these tools part of my life. Part of my father's life.

Since I can afford new tools, why would I want to risk damage and loss to something I value as part of history. World and personal.

You care for your tools as you see fit, and I will do as I see fit. Learn to enjoy what others are doing or you won't like this site at all. FWIW, a spell check goes a LONG way around here.

Very well said.

 

[mkdive]

no pictures yet?

 

[Mohawk Dave]

(if not trying to save good chrome) I always wire wheel first to get the bulk of the rust off, because the wire wheel cost is less than the EOR cost. I try to stretch the EOR as it will wear out.

And I keep some 00/000/0000 steel wool next to the 5gal of EOR so I can pull a tool out, run the wool over it, shake it around in the EOR, then soak more if needed.

I have thousands of dollars worth of tools that were bought for damn near nothing due to rust/grime on them. I also wire wheel/EOR/clean a couple (new to me rusty/grimy) tools at the end of every night before I leave the shop just to wind down. That's my hobby time I invest.

 

[gungatim]

wow talk about an old thread, it was started in 2009! but I'll add my 2 cents anyway.

I found the cheapest way to go is fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and add half a jug of Iron Out. You get it at walmart, hardware store, home depot, etc. Drop in the tools and let em sit for a day or so. will completely removed all the rust. throw a lid on the bucket and reuse it over and over. waaay cheaper than those other chemicals, a jut is around $5 here.

I have tried CLR, left a steel ruler soaking on the counter in the house over night. spilled some and didn't clean it up. in the morning there was a square pan shaped ring. the CLR didn't touch the rust, but completely etched the counter top. Which is GRANITE! SWMBO was not happy, only way to remove it was to have it re-polished...

I no longer keep CLR in the house.

 

[BFBOB]

I've used various chemical dips and mechanical methods. What has given me the best results in the sense of removing rust but preserving the maximum amount of original surface is electrolysis. Very simple to set up - battery charger, plastic waste basket, scrap steel (I use stainless) for the sacrificial anodes. It can take anywhere from minutes to days, but it will dig all the rust out of the pits but not attack the good metal. Follow up with a gentle hand wirebrushing and you'll do the least damage possible. That's my experience.
If you were working on a vise or anvil, my answer would be different.

 

[pauls_workshop]

wow talk about an old thread, it was started in 2009! but I'll add my 2 cents anyway.

I found the cheapest way to go is fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and add half a jug of Iron Out. You get it at walmart, hardware store, home depot, etc. Drop in the tools and let em sit for a day or so. will completely removed all the rust. throw a lid on the bucket and reuse it over and over. waaay cheaper than those other chemicals, a jut is around $5 here.

I have tried CLR, left a steel ruler soaking on the counter in the house over night. spilled some and didn't clean it up. in the morning there was a square pan shaped ring. the CLR didn't touch the rust, but completely etched the counter top. Which is GRANITE! SWMBO was not happy, only way to remove it was to have it re-polished...

I no longer keep CLR in the house.

Yes, my experience with CLR is it will help to remove any chrome plating that might have been under those deposits or corrosion and ruin the part. I don't like it either for any use in the house.

I am curious about "Gun Bluing" a part after derusting. I've never done this and know nothing about the topic. For those who have done this to tools after derusting, when the chrome or other plating is bad, can you share the process and recommend a kit on how to go about it? I might like to try sometime. thx- Paul

 

[wasfuzz]

I wouldn't use the vinegar. Tried it on some wrenches and pliers. Frankly, soaking wrenches that are already corroded in acid, even mild acid, did not improve the looks of the wrenches, or pliers.
Used Evapo-rust on some this week. It will remove all the rust quickly and without adding to the wear.

For really shinny wrenches, after I Evapo-rust them I put them in my brass polisher. Does a wicked job on sockets, small wrenches, etc. anything that can fit.
Evapo-rust removes the rust, the polisher makes em shine.

+1

 

[Carla]

Lightly glass bead blast them.

Charles

Concur.

I have 'refinished' quite a few miscellaneous wrenches, pliers, hammers, punches, etc., which are of the old high quality makes.

'Gentle' glass-blasting will bring the steel to clean metal. For such as high quality old unplated 'industrial grade' wrenches, if not actually seriously rust-pitted, a bit of polishing-out on a Cratex wheel, followed by 're-blacking' with Brownells 'Oxpho' (a copper-black sold as cold gun blue) will make them look 'as new' if not a little better.

After blacking them with the Oxpho, lightly burnish with ultra-fine steel-wool, and apply a thin coat of spray-can clear varnish.

(several of the major tool makers who supplied 'industrial finish' tools used a clear varnish to protect their tools from rusting in shipment......this will be especially noticeable on the rare 'new-old-stock' Plomb and New Britain wrenches, socket tools, etc., you may find. The varnish wears off in use, of course....just keep them oiled, and they will serve their purpose indefinitely, if not abused.

Yes, I know, this may seem 'a bit much' just to salvage old small tools....but....a 'refinished' wrench of any of the good makes will do the same job, and do it just as well, as the shiniest of expensive new Snap-on wrenches.

Chrome-plated tools with rust spots in the platiing can be made useful in much the same way, by polishing out the rough spots in the plating.....the little bare spots in the plating won't 'look pretty', but the tool still turns the fastener just the same.....it all depends on one's 'aesthetic' needs, I suppose....for me, a 50cts. or $1 flea market/garage sale wrench, if of a good make, is worth the five minutes of work to make it serviceable, which seems a good bit more cost-effective than just purchasing a $50 Snap-on wrench.

cheers

Carla

 

[redbarron57]

I tried evapo rust it worked ok

 

[Matthew3901]

evaporust before and after- before photo is no so good. After evaporust they look great. then wiped down with WD40

 

[404]

Oxalic acid (or a rhubarb patch) is another option.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Oxalic acid (or a rhubarb patch) is another option.

Rhubarb patch?? - Paul

 

[Sprintman]

G/DAY are there any Aussies here I have not seen evaporust here, will CLR DO THE JOB

Corrodip better than Evaporust and a third of the price.

 

[404]

Rhubarb has oxalic acid in it.

 

[6PTsocket]

I am already a big fan of Evap O Rust. I understand diluted molasses does the same thing on the cheap, but slower. It is a process called chelation and it only removes rust. Naval Jelly and a lot of others are dilute phosphoric acid that convert porous iron oxide, rust into non porous, black, iron phosphate. Coke works for the same reason. Think about that the next time you chug one down. My question is on the best way to protect the bare metal after the rust is gone. Zinc plating or galvanizing is doable at home. Nothing I have is worth sending out but if I did I would get it re chromed, not cad plated. Is it always necessary to take off all the chrome? Is it always going to peel at the bare spots? I have a chemical that leaves a black finish but that comes with a protective oil type spray. T9 leaves a waxy coating that lasts a while. I use it on the cast iron tables in my shop, drill press,band saw, etc. I'd like some opinions.

 

[VDubJoe]

Molasses works great. Use it a bunch. And cheap.
Also use vinegar.
Joe