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Cleaning tools that batteries corroded in.

signcrafter

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Have a tool that some AA batteries were left in and they corroded and now tool doesn't work. In the past I have used some baking soda mixed with water. Also used some rubbing alcohol on some things. Is there something better or just keep using what I have been?
 
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theoldwizard1

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Shot in the dark - If you cab soak it a container, try vinegar. Alkaline is a "base" so a mild acid should work.

Some people swear by DeOxit, but I have never tried it. Various sizes of brass brushes.
 
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ducktapeguy

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Vinegar or Lemon Juice. Used it on some old flashlight and it works great. As Oldwizard said you need something acidic to counteract the base
 

zendriver

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Assuming the corrosion did not leak into the mechanism, You might have to rub the battery contacts, with some fine emery or steel wool.
 

rlitman

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Shot in the dark - If you cab soak it a container, try vinegar. Alkaline is a "base" so a mild acid should work.

Some people swear by DeOxit, but I have never tried it. Various sizes of brass brushes.

I swear by DeOxit for copper and brass terminals that have oxidized, but can't say that it does much for corrosion from batteries.

I like to use a fiberglass abrasive pen, but have been known to use the diamond file on my Leatherman too.
 

theoldwizard1

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I swear by DeOxit for copper and brass terminals that have oxidized, but can't say that it does much for corrosion from batteries.

I like to use a fiberglass abrasive pen, but have been known to use the diamond file on my Leatherman too.

Link please.
 

rlitman

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Link please.

Sure thing. This is what I purchased most recently:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017MPYZL0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You dial the knob at the back, and it advances a bundle of glass fibers that slowly wear back like an eraser. It doesn't quite have the power of a sandblasting pen, but it doesn't require any additional equipment either.

This style "scratch brush" is also made in stainless, brass and nylon, and I've got them all, but it is the fiberglass one that really shines, because the glass breaks as you use it, so it stays sharp.

Radio Shack used to sell this style:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J18RT6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And an example of how jewelers use them:
http://www.watchfreeks.com/41-straps-other-accessories/5849-bergeon-scratch-brush.html
 

cheechi

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Deoxit is a waste for something like this. Soda water, a wire brush, and elbow grease is all you need.
 

plinker

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I used some CRC foaming battery cleaner on a lantern base that had D-cell batteries leak in it and it seemed to work ok.
 

gungatim

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I use deoxit. but you have to be careful as it can damage plastics and the rubber keypads on remotes or calculators.
 

Davefr

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Deoxit is a waste for something like this. Soda water, a wire brush, and elbow grease is all you need.


^^^Agree. Deoxit is a great product but it does not remove leaking alkaline battery corrosion. It's expensive, don't waste your money for this application.

I haven't found anything that does other other then scraping/sanding/elbow grease.

It's amazing that after all these decades, alkaline batteries still leak like a sieve.
 

nickz

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I repair watches and they are used to remove rust and staining on the movements plates and the back of dials etc. The red ones look to be like some that I have run across, they are very,very mild. A good fiberglass pencil is nice and abrasive you will see fiberglass dust (fibers I guess) coming off the pencil. I don't care for the mild ones.
 

Paco Pena

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I've used vinegar on my old maglite when the duracells shat the bed and leaked. They were practically welded in there. Still had the scrape and use sandpaper to get it spotless.

Paco
 

rallenc

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Sorry to drag up an "old" thread but I was wondering if anyone changes batteries in their flashlights each year to try to keep them from suffering leak damage?

I know it is a terrible waste of resources but quite frankly I've got 3 maglites that currently have "welded" batteries. I do not recall how old the batteries are in them but I will assume a few years old as the flashlights were infrequently used.

Any opinion if changing them every year will minimize the leakage issue?

Thanks for the opinions.
 

Paco Pena

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I started putting a roll of thin plastic from commercial baked goods clamshell packaging etc inside the maglite then insert the batteries. If they leak its minimized. In emergency type flashlights I now leave the batteries beside the flashlight and drop them in when needed.

Paco
 

rallenc

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I started putting a roll of thin plastic from commercial baked goods clamshell packaging etc inside the maglite then insert the batteries. If they leak its minimized. In emergency type flashlights I now leave the batteries beside the flashlight and drop them in when needed.

Paco

Good suggestions. Certainly cheaper than throwing away perfectly good batteries each year.

Thanks!
 

James-W

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In some cases I have removed the little springs and then used a very fine grit sandpaper to shine them up again. Doesn't work with some equipment, can't remove the springs without a major undertaking.
 
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landrover bodger

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Duracell batteries seem to leak more than other brands . if you have any leak and destroy anything contact Duracell and complain they will reimburse you for your losses if the batteries are in date
 

Danglerb

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Skip the Alkaleakers and switch to Eneloops with size adapters if needed.

When cleaning I do NOT soak, but work over the sink inverted using vinegar and an old toothbrush, finishing with baking soda and then filtered water. First pass of cleaning is dry and maybe canned air.

As mentioned several of the major battery brands will do the cleaning or reimburse as long as the batteries are within date codes. Lesson there is remove expiring date code batteries from anything of value.
 

Ruahrc

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+1 on not using alkaline batteries for anything long term storage. I have pretty much abandoned using alkaline batteries in favor of eneloops or lithium primary batteries which also have higher capacity and don't leak. They are more expensive but for just a few items that are stored for emergency purposes it is not too bad and possibly cheaper long term than replacing alkalines becauae they leak. I also only use lithium primaries in my AA wireless mouse where the significantly reduced weight is noticeable as well.
 

metaldad

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lost count on how many mag lites i had were destroyed by leaking duracells.
had aa batteries leak in a fluke meter. think they were ray-o-vac. i do remember calling them in racine. they were within the date stamp. they replaced the meter.
i now take the batteries out of everything. pia.
 

6PTsocket

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Have a tool that some AA batteries were left in and they corroded and now tool doesn't work. In the past I have used some baking soda mixed with water. Also used some rubbing alcohol on some things. Is there something better or just keep using what I have been?
I have had excellent results with plain old white vinegar and a Q tip. They are called alkaline batteries. Baking soda is alkaline as well so it does not work. Baking soda works great on lead ACID car batteries. For an alkaline battery you need an acid to neutralize the mess. Vinegar is 5% acetic acid. Try it; the results are immediate. You will find that the plating on the terminals was probably eaten away. To prevent further oxidation, I usually use a little dielectric grease, though any light grease should work.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

tym

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Funny you mention duracells. It seems like they are the only batteries that I've ever had that leaked. Sometime it happens in just a few months.
Yup. Noticed that Duracells became far more leak-prone in the last 5-10 years. Not sure what changed with their manufacturing, but not something good.

I've since switched to Energizer, and so far, no problems.
 

davethorik

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This thread reminded me to work on my 4D maglite. I kept it in my car forever, brought it inside and still worked but was dim. Batteries had leaked. I got the batteries out with a few vigorous taps on a wood block, but it needs cleaned.
 

tym

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This thread reminded me to work on my 4D maglite. I kept it in my car forever, brought it inside and still worked but was dim. Batteries had leaked. I got the batteries out with a few vigorous taps on a wood block, but it needs cleaned.
What brand were the leaky batteries, and were they within date? Thanks.
 

Hexen

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I've successfully de-gunked many devices with vinegar (I use the apple cider variety since that's what I keep around for other uses, but any kind works)... graphing calculator, several remote controls, small clock, emergency radio, headlamp, probably some others I'm forgetting... I usually just wipe a little vinegar on the problem areas with a q-tip and/or small piece of paper towel, not drenching it, and haven't noticed any harm to the rest of the contact points and interior that way. The stubborn bits of gunk in tight areas sometimes need a little help with a small pick or knife (sometimes need the knife to pry out the batteries in the first place too; I use a butter knife to avoid unnecessary gouging).

Most of my leakers have been Duracell (even some unused, still in the package!!), though there's been a few Energizer too. I have contacted Duracell before when I actually caught a leaker before the batteries' date was passed. They made me read off some tiny barely-legible code numbers embossed on the side of the batteries (so don't toss them out right away if you plan on calling - and have a magnifying glass and bright lighting handy when you do), and sent me a coupon good on a replacement pack of batteries (enough to pay for a much larger pack than the batteries originated from). Unfortunately some of that replacement pack ended up leaking too. :(

Lately I'm focusing on basic Rayovac alkalines. They have better prices and work just as well, with what seems to be less propensity for leaking these days than the bigger brands. I've found them at Walmart, Kohl's, Home Depot, and Lowes.

Rechargeable NIMH are definitely safe, but then you have the ongoing hassle of charging/rotating (even the low-self-discharging ones will eventually discharge to the point of no return if you forget them too long), and if you try using them in everything, you might find some of your devices aren't okay with the slight differences in how they put out voltage compared to non-rechargeables.

The other thing I'd recommend if you can afford it are Energizer primary (non-rechargeable) lithium AA/AAA. Energizer unfortunately has a monopoly on this type of AA/AAA battery in the US, so they are not cheap compared to other batteries, but they are virtually leakproof just like the primary lithium button batteries are - great thing to leave in less-used devices that you want to be sure will work when you need them.

PS: All my leak problems so far have been with AA/AAA and 9V (which have tiny AAAAs inside them). I've had much better luck with C and D batteries of all brands and off-brands not leaking, even long past their dates. Obviously it can happen with those too, as the 4D Maglite guy shows, but I think their larger size maybe provides more room for better sealing/separation inside.
 
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anndel

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For flashlights I hardly use (only during power outages) I take the batteries out, especially Duracells. For corroded terminals, vinegar or deoxit with some elbow grease.
 

Jimithing616

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I dealt with this ALOT buying used/vintage cameras and photography equipment....

The battery compartment was sometimes deep down and hard to get to, and you had to be careful about liquids...

So, I scraped out what I could with dental pics, I would also use pencil erasers with a hole punched circle of sand paper super glued to the end, it works great as you can spin it on the contacts... you can also just use the eraser itself too, that works in some cases

As an earlier poster said, those fiberglass pen things for rust spot repair like this one on amazon http://https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Fiberglass-Colors-vary/dp/B0019V18D2
Would also work great... never tried it, but the concept is the same...

After that I would use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and then compressed air to blow the debris out....

I was always careful about where I did this and where the debris ended up... some batteries, especially in old cameras, can be really nasty with **** like mercury in them... hopefully you don't have to deal with that....
 

cajunfirehawk

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This tread reminded me to go look in all of my back up lights that have batteries in them esp since its almost another year; 2018...thanks Gents!

And I found some leaking too!
24555221957_3cf48459f7_c.jpg


25551188938_d6b83c53bb_c.jpg

Looks like some more leaking raovacs?
 
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Gert

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Duracell batteries seem to leak more than other brands . if you have any leak and destroy anything contact Duracell and complain they will reimburse you for your losses if the batteries are in date

+1 Duracell batteries are the worst you can buy. My kids electric train was distroyed by a leaking duracell battery. They refunded a new train but no more duracell for me.

I found a link on the website of duracell "how do I clean after a battery leak". https://www.duracell.com/en-us/help/faq/how-do-i-clean-up-after-a-battery-leak

About trust in your own product (not).
 

gregpack

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As mentioned, duracell and energizer both will fix or replace items damaged
by leakers. My understanding is alkaline battery manufacturing changed to a more environmentally friendly process a few years back and as a result their batteries just don't last as long without leaking. I no longer use them in anything worth more than a few bucks.

Panasonic(formerly Sanyo) eneloops batteries in AA and AAA are what you seek. I use them for anything that gets used frequently around the house. They can sit for a few years and maintain most of their charge. They are a couple bucks each, so I don't use them in cheap stuff (kids toys that might get lost or super cheap LED flashlights) but they are great. I've got some getting close to ten years old still working. Costco usually has the best price on those.

For mission critical items that get used rarely (such as a flashlight in an auto emergency repair kit) I use energizer lithiums. They are good for 10 years plus. Just make sure that the device you put them in doesn't have parasitic drainage.
 

bonneyman

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...This style "scratch brush" is also made in stainless, brass and nylon, and I've got them all, but it is the fiberglass one that really shines, because the glass breaks as you use it, so it stays sharp....

Damn if that isn't a great idea! :rocker:
Could have used something like that to clean old thermostat contacts that corroded over time due to soldering flux residue left on them during manufacture.
 

bonneyman

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lost count on how many mag lites i had were destroyed by leaking duracells.
had aa batteries leak in a fluke meter. think they were ray-o-vac. i do remember calling them in racine. they were within the date stamp. they replaced the meter.
i now take the batteries out of everything. pia.

Yep, I've lost maglights and meters to ruptured batteries. Instituted several "reforms" to minimize or eliminate this issue.

#1) No more big Maglites. Plastic commercial grade flashlights or thrift store cheapie metal ones instead.
#2) Go to carbon-zinc batteries with LED replacement bulbs.
#3) If I must use alkaline cells, I use toilet paper or paper towel tubes (for round cells) or cut up and squared ones (for 9 volters) to soak up any leaked liquid, thus reducing or sparing the tool.
 
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Rarified27

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For those with the "welded in" batteries in things like mag lites, I've got one where I can't get the batteries out at all.

I've tried everything from slamming it into a wood block to attempts at prying with no luck.

Any advice on soaking in white vinegar or similar as some have mentioned above?
 

Davefr

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For those with the "welded in" batteries in things like mag lites, I've got one where I can't get the batteries out at all.

I've tried everything from slamming it into a wood block to attempts at prying with no luck.

Any advice on soaking in white vinegar or similar as some have mentioned above?


Get a screw with thick/course threads and screw it deep into the end of the battery. Now attach a slide hammer like they use in body shops to pull out dents.

After a couple aggresive slides you should be able to remove the bad battery(s).
 
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