Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

[Guster]

Andy, we need to send you a sheet good dolly! Ply that large is a pain to move around like that. Dead jealous you have room to cut indoors tho!

Great job on the ball turner. You need a nice boring bar with some cutter clearance next.

I have a job coming up for mine so the forge will need to be fired up for some heavy profile bending to make it soon as my needle valves arrive. They are controlled items here... gas fitting shops etc. can't sell them to public! Don't think customs have any issues.

PS. I hope newironfarmer is not taken yet!

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy, we need to send you a sheet good dolly! Ply that large is a pain to move around like that. Dead jealous you have room to cut indoors tho!

I have a step up to get into the planer room and another step up to get into the wood shop. Once I roll it to the planer door I just carry and set it on the table saw. 3/4" plywood and particle board is a bit heavy but I need the exercise. I guess.

I intentionally have a largish shop, but it's also my fault I barely have room to work in a 420 sq meter shop.

However I do have to admit having a dry heated shop in winter and A/C in summer is very nice. That was the first room I insulated, put a heater in, then a small window unit. I've never regretted it. I was never good at sawdust stuck to my sweaty skin and having sweat drip onto a nice board. I do love my shop, however ratty and jumbled it is.

Great job on the ball turner. You need a nice boring bar with some cutter clearance next.

Thank you! I have boring bars, but the 3/4" ones are long and I hated to cut one down. What I really need is an indexable insert on the end of a 3/4" bar, or, it seems I've seen a round insert which might fit on the end of a round bar. Need an itty bitty tap to attach it.

It was actually a challenge to figure out how to grind the cutter to make that cut, on the top of the work. It seemed simple but my first grind did not cut the mustard.

I have a job coming up for mine so the forge will need to be fired up for some heavy profile bending to make it soon as my needle valves arrive. They are controlled items here... gas fitting shops etc. can't sell them to public! Don't think customs have any issues.

PS. I hope newironfarmer is not taken yet!

Now you don't really need a needle valve. I got by quite nicely for a long time throttling through a 1/4" ball valve. The needle valve I happened onto at an auction is sure nice though, a 3,000# Parker valve.

Probably the valves are controlled because we can't have non-licensed plumbers fitting items like that which would present a public safety hazard. In someonoe's mind. Should we raise the issue about someone potentially circumventing the safety control?

Newironfarmer has that new age ring to it. Hmmm, no. Besides, my tractors are the old iron, and anything I cast will certainly originate from old iron. And so it goes.

Glad to hear from you.

 

[carlquib]

A round tool bit works quite well in a boring bar ball turner. I just made a 3/4" tool holder and then use 1/4" round hss or smaller if you need smaller balls. If I make it out to the shop tomorrow I'll try to post some pictures of the bits I use for you. There are a couple pictures on my Instagram page of balls I have had to make, one in process and two on finished products. Here
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTVLQ7yjkIV/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1sxjyhg48yv34

And here https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVLGAPgkOx/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1rouwjd0ypmv9

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures handy of the bit, where you can see it and it's geometry. Can't wait for your cast iron foundry to be up and running, that is definitely something on my to do list.

-Brian

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

 

[oldironfarmer]

A round tool bit works quite well in a boring bar ball turner. I just made a 3/4" tool holder and then use 1/4" round hss or smaller if you need smaller balls. If I make it out to the shop tomorrow I'll try to post some pictures of the bits I use for you. There are a couple pictures on my Instagram page of balls I have had to make, one in process and two on finished products. Here
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTVLQ7yjkIV/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1sxjyhg48yv34

And here https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVLGAPgkOx/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1rouwjd0ypmv9

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures handy of the bit, where you can see it and it's geometry. Can't wait for your cast iron foundry to be up and running, that is definitely something on my to do list.

-Brian

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

Very cool! Looks like you cut on the bottom turning in reverse?

 

[RickP]

...
Cast iron is getting closer. I have my first project. My old platform scale is missing one 2/200lb weight so I can only go to 400 pounds, then I could weigh 500# to 900# 1,000. OK, so I don't need it, but I want a complete set of weights (1, 2, 2, 5). I've looked on eBay but there are many styles and have not seen the one I need.
...
Not much in the shop today, although I did have a minute to clean on the lathe. I was unable to go to an auction I had planned to attend, but my Zumba teacher's husband was kind enough to spend some of my money for me. I got a load of tire repair supplies plus a nice gear puller set.

Nice haul from the auction, even if you didn't get the spin balancer. That's definitely a pricey machine for a hobby shop, but I'm sure you both have a lot of tires. And avoiding long trips into town has to be worth quite a bit to you. I'm sure you'll find one.

Are the weights for your scale made from cast iron or lead? I can certainly understand getting some practice on casting the iron, but making them from lead sounds like it would be so much easier. I guess if you want a matched set, then cast iron is the way to go. In order to get the size of the new weights perfect, are you planning to cast them slightly oversized and then grind them down to zero in on the accurate weight?

 

[carlquib]

Very cool! Looks like you cut on the bottom turning in reverse?

I do cut on the bottom running in reverse. Clears chips better and the tool seems to be less likely to gouge and cause problems.

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: i'm sorry for putting my quick thinking down before thinking it through on your 1200 holes you need to drill. yep you surely wouldn't want to drill them all the way through your shelving hence your cool tool. i guess with your peg board jig clamped in tight doing 150 holes per board before changing to the next board might go fairly quickly and your hand can rest a bit during the change.

I know your gal wants matching shelving, but I'd prefer antique shelving you could buy at auctions or estate sales to give the store a little more of the old town look. you are a great guy for helping her out and just making what she wants.

enjoy your rest day and my rest days seem to be SATURDAY the real one this past year or so.

cheers

 

[shortykorte]

“.....however ratty and jumbled it is”
And I thought I’d get ideas on cleaning up my shop. [emoji1]
Did someone say public safety hazard? Do I need to make a stop other than Don’s Party Garage?


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Farmall450]

That's a good looking snappy set; my dad has one of the cabinet puller sets he similarly got a good deal on. It's handy to have all the different jaws as opposed to just reversible ones with 2 or 3 different holes.

 

[Guster]

Gave my dad one of these to help handle sheet goods and he always thanks me for it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PE32UWO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Been meaning to upgrade him to something like these:
https://www.delmaproduction.nl/en/transport-trolleys/heavy-load-material-dolly
...or even these for some of the heavier items when he works outside by himself:
https://www.usagranitetools.com/sho...ies-abaco-machines/abaco-3-wheels-slab-dolly/
I have one of these and use the heck out of it:
https://www.topmaq.co.nz/item/view/Carrier-for-Glass-Wood-Drywall-Panel?sku=HAMI2500

I still use the brazed carbide bars my boring head came with. Well, I have 3 left as the others suffered interrupted cut failures and 2 are fairly chipped. Though I do have a 3/4" left hand and right hand indexible boring bar, both acquired cheaply for use in the boring head. Right hand cutter is great for cutting OD with a boring head if you cannot reverse the spindle. I have not cut them down as I can’t decide on an optimal length either. Certainly times I’d prefer HSS too and round HSS is easy to hold as Brian mentions. Though I must admit this is one of the few times I have both working M4 and M5 taps on hand. Broke quite a few last year alone – nice round HSS stock for making cutters too.

No need to let on to anyone what I plan to do with my needle valves thank you! (is it any better being a private safety hazard?) Some of the brass needle valves I’ve been using are enjoying a 3rd life already amongst a growing collection of ball valves. One still had wasp nest mud inside from 10 years use in a home built stainless gas BBQ.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Nice haul from the auction, even if you didn't get the spin balancer. That's definitely a pricey machine for a hobby shop, but I'm sure you both have a lot of tires. And avoiding long trips into town has to be worth quite a bit to you. I'm sure you'll find one.

Yeah, $650 was not too much for a good balancer. We'll buy one when it comes along. My buddy is looking since he missed this one.

Are the weights for your scale made from cast iron or lead? I can certainly understand getting some practice on casting the iron, but making them from lead sounds like it would be so much easier. I guess if you want a matched set, then cast iron is the way to go. In order to get the size of the new weights perfect, are you planning to cast them slightly oversized and then grind them down to zero in on the accurate weight?

Really I don't need the weight, I rarely have anything over 100 lbs to weigh. The old ones are cast iron.

My scale uses 100 to 1 weights, which is very convenient. If I want to add 100 lbs to the scale I add 1 lb to the weight hanger. So all I really need is any 2 lb weight which would fit on the hanger. I just want a complete original set.

The originals are drilled on the underside to adjust the weight. I planned to fill the holes with plaster when I use one for a pattern, then the casting will be overweight and be drilled to proper weight.

And today an original one popped up on eBay so I bought it.

I do cut on the bottom running in reverse. Clears chips better and the tool seems to be less likely to gouge and cause problems.

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

Good plan. Any slack in the system is taken out by gravity too, so that would reduce chatter on light cuts. I've about decided to try turning a piece of 5/8" sucker rod down to 1/2" and 1/4" and heat treat it. I know it will be good and hard and will fit right in the boring head.

Sorry about your condition. I'm glad I don't have a tool problem.

Andy: i'm sorry for putting my quick thinking down before thinking it through on your 1200 holes you need to drill. yep you surely wouldn't want to drill them all the way through your shelving hence your cool tool. i guess with your peg board jig clamped in tight doing 150 holes per board before changing to the next board might go fairly quickly and your hand can rest a bit during the change.

I had thought about it a bit.

I know your gal wants matching shelving, but I'd prefer antique shelving you could buy at auctions or estate sales to give the store a little more of the old town look. you are a great guy for helping her out and just making what she wants.

enjoy your rest day and my rest days seem to be SATURDAY the real one this past year or so.

cheers

Not only does she want all gray painted (ugh) she will get what she wants. I don't even make suggestions because it is her business, she has the look she likes, and it does look business like. My ideas are dated, although she did like the cast shelf brackets. I only suggested them because the frames she had bought had no shear resistance and were not going to make a usable shelf.

I have figured out I can't go to auctions or estate sales because I buy stuff. And I've already got stuff. Plenty of stuff. Just different stuff.

I did take the afternoon off, a friend came over and we cast his wife a trivet.

“.....however ratty and jumbled it is”
And I thought I’d get ideas on cleaning up my shop. [emoji1]

Hold up your sign

Did someone say public safety hazard? Do I need to make a stop other than Don’s Party Garage?

Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Stop in and do a safety inspection. I have open flames and liquid metals and need your help. Bring your FLA safety shoes.

That's a good looking snappy set; my dad has one of the cabinet puller sets he similarly got a good deal on. It's handy to have all the different jaws as opposed to just reversible ones with 2 or 3 different holes.

I'm hoping it will work as good as it looks

Thanks for stopping in, guys.

Retired guys luncheon this week but I plan to get something done even if it's just screwing around.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Gave my dad one of these to help handle sheet goods and he always thanks me for it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PE32UWO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Been meaning to upgrade him to something like these:
https://www.delmaproduction.nl/en/transport-trolleys/heavy-load-material-dolly
...or even these for some of the heavier items when he works outside by himself:
https://www.usagranitetools.com/sho...ies-abaco-machines/abaco-3-wheels-slab-dolly/
I have one of these and use the heck out of it:
https://www.topmaq.co.nz/item/view/Carrier-for-Glass-Wood-Drywall-Panel?sku=HAMI2500

Boy oh boy that's some pricey stuff. That last one by Stanley is $6.95 and Home Depot, that's U.S. dollars. Is that about $22.50 Kiwi?

I almost made me a lost foam one of those handles the other day and may yet. Not sure when I'll get to town. I've wanted one of those for years and these ten sheets (eight left) really justify it.

I still use the brazed carbide bars my boring head came with. Well, I have 3 left as the others suffered interrupted cut failures and 2 are fairly chipped. Though I do have a 3/4" left hand and right hand indexible boring bar, both acquired cheaply for use in the boring head. Right hand cutter is great for cutting OD with a boring head if you cannot reverse the spindle. I have not cut them down as I can’t decide on an optimal length either. Certainly times I’d prefer HSS too and round HSS is easy to hold as Brian mentions. Though I must admit this is one of the few times I have both working M4 and M5 taps on hand. Broke quite a few last year alone – nice round HSS stock for making cutters too.

I've only used a few of the original nine brazed bars. I don't use my boring head very much, it has an R8 arbor. I got a second one with a straight 3/4" arbor for the ball turner. Tore up one, and bought a second set. I have had limited success sharpening them with a green grinding wheel.

I recently bought a set of M3-M8 taps in preparation for making some indexable holders, I hope. Maybe I can break one or more of them.

No need to let on to anyone what I plan to do with my needle valves thank you! (is it any better being a private safety hazard?) Some of the brass needle valves I’ve been using are enjoying a 3rd life already amongst a growing collection of ball valves. One still had wasp nest mud inside from 10 years use in a home built stainless gas BBQ.

I don't really have any good connections in NZ except you, so I guess I'll let it rest.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

[Vieux]

My device for making balls looks like this. I sold it with my lathe, so I show only old photos.

 

[Guster]

US$6.90 is about NZ$10 right now but shipping would make it about $22.

You know I would never pay that much for one. Waited until they had a clearance sale and bought 2 for NZ$20 and gave one to my dad.

Those were just some ideas I've seen around. Plenty others out there. My dad stores a lot of sheet stock behind shelving and easily moves them in and out with the plywheel doodad now. Personally like the combination carrier with the wheel. Sometimes you have to get sheet material around corners and just can't carry it in straight. When it is a +60kg fibrecement floorpanel it is so much harder. For some reason you are not allowed to drag them across the lounge carpet either.

I always enjoy stopping by!

 

[bolensboneyard]

Nice looking gear puller set Andy. Good score!

 

[Bob Heine]

Boy oh boy that's some pricey stuff. That last one by Stanley is $6.95 and Home Depot, that's U.S. dollars. Is that about $22.50 Kiwi?

I almost made me a lost foam one of those handles the other day and may yet. Not sure when I'll get to town. I've wanted one of those for years and these ten sheets (eight left) really justify it.

Andy, when that PlyWheel showed up as unavailable on Amazon, I did some searching. Acme Tools has a Telpro 49T hand cart for reasonable money: https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/telpro-49t

Northern Tool sells a cart with double the capacity (600 pounds) for a little bit more than the one from Acme (I had to buy from Acme just because): https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200693186_200693186came across

 

[Finallygotit]

Hello Andy!


During my travels this past week, I ran across this and immediately thought of you. I used to have one of these as a kid. Still have the C-clamp.

 

[Ralf99]

Just another suggestion on the sheet goods dolly front.


When sheets are loaded in their weight causes the two sides to clamp together and the dolly grips itself in place.


These are rated at 550 Lb and are available at our big green box stores down in this part of the world for around USD 55~. I plan on having a go at fabbing up something similar.

 

[oldironfarmer]

My device for making balls looks like this. I sold it with my lathe, so I show only old photos.

Very cool! but then I expected nothing less.

US$6.90 is about NZ$10 right now but shipping would make it about $22.

It was a feeble attempt at humor. I figured if Bob could do it, why not me.

You know I would never pay that much for one. Waited until they had a clearance sale and bought 2 for NZ$20 and gave one to my dad.

Those were just some ideas I've seen around. Plenty others out there. My dad stores a lot of sheet stock behind shelving and easily moves them in and out with the plywheel doodad now. Personally like the combination carrier with the wheel. Sometimes you have to get sheet material around corners and just can't carry it in straight. When it is a +60kg fibrecement floorpanel it is so much harder. For some reason you are not allowed to drag them across the lounge carpet either.

I always enjoy stopping by!

I really need to get me a proper sheet goods dolly. Maybe after this round is finished so I can store it and then look for it in the future.

Nice looking gear puller set Andy. Good score!

Thanks, Bobby!

Andy, when that PlyWheel showed up as unavailable on Amazon, I did some searching. Acme Tools has a Telpro 49T hand cart for reasonable money: https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/telpro-49t

Northern Tool sells a cart with double the capacity (600 pounds) for a little bit more than the one from Acme (I had to buy from Acme just because): https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200693186_200693186came across

I really like the lifting clamp.

Hello Andy!


During my travels this past week, I ran across this and immediately thought of you. I used to have one of these as a kid. Still have the C-clamp.

Why did that remind you of me?

Just another suggestion on the sheet goods dolly front.


When sheets are loaded in their weight causes the two sides to clamp together and the dolly grips itself in place.


These are rated at 550 Lb and are available at our big green box stores down in this part of the world for around USD 55~. I plan on having a go at fabbing up something similar.

That's a pretty cool design.

I did get into the shop for a bit today. Decided to go ahead and drill some holes. Laid out the drill guide.

Set my stopwatch and hand drilled all the holes.

In 3:50! Under four minutes. Hand guided but they'll be straight enough for shelf brackets.

I had put tape down to help with tearout using a twist drill.

Really not bad, I think most of it will clean up.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Then started on the rabbet for the back. I cut it on the table saw. It would have been a long cut for a router and the plywood might splinter. The cut with the board flat was easy but they are warped a bit so I needed a feather board. Of course I couldn't find one so made one from scrap oak.

The trick with a feather board is to make the cuts close together and make the fingers long. (That's a piece of scrap plywood I did test drills in. The rabbet goes parallel with the holes)

I like to position it with a board against the rip fence then put the inside clamp on. Then swing the end of the board to put enough pressure on the fingers to hold the board firmly but where it can still be pushed. Works like a charm.

Here's an end view of one of the side boards. Too much bow to hold against the rip fence by hand.

I had ripped everything a few days ago so I cut to length.

The sides need a rabbet at the top for the top and a dado at the bottom for the bottom shelf.

I'm measuring carefully so hopefully everything will fit well. Then I'll cut the other three units all at once.

Thanks for looking in!

 

[carlquib]

Hi Andy, finally got around to getting those pictures of my ball turner for you. The actual cutting part of the business is the 1/4" hss tool blank mounted in a holder. I don't know if you will be able to tell from the picture but the center is relieved to help provide a positive cutting action. I didn't get to it sooner because all the kids showed up Sunday and then the rear end in our suburban decided it was done. I got the rebuild kit today and started getting it back together, but the print still isn't quite to my liking. Need to get pinion shims tomorrow and try again. If you have any questions about my ball turner ask away and I'll do my best to answer.

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

 

[Farmall450]

That really wasn't too bad on the time.

Good trick with the tape.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: it's great how you can change from one project to the next. while you say you are a little CRAMPED most of us would be working outside under the stars in the weather for half the stuff you do cause we just don't have shops as big as yours. LOOKS PRETTY CLEAN TO ME!!

have a great day and the shelving unit is coming along nicely!!

 

[Redwolf947]

Looking good Andy, that's a lot of holes to drill..

 

[RickP]

Then started on the rabbet for the back. I cut it on the table saw. It would have been a long cut for a router and the plywood might splinter. The cut with the board flat was easy but they are warped a bit so I needed a feather board. Of course I couldn't find one so made one from scrap oak.

The trick with a feather board is to make the cuts close together and make the fingers long. (That's a piece of scrap plywood I did test drills in. The rabbet goes parallel with the holes)

I like to position it with a board against the rip fence then put the inside clamp on. Then swing the end of the board to put enough pressure on the fingers to hold the board firmly but where it can still be pushed. Works like a charm.

Thanks for the description - I'm going to use that technique! I've had some difficulty dealing with warped boards in the past. I've been hacking wood projects all my life, so it's high time I added some finesse with rabbets, etc.

The hole drilling looks like it went really well. I'm quite surprised how fast it was - definitely good planning and technique.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Hi Andy, finally got around to getting those pictures of my ball turner for you. The actual cutting part of the business is the 1/4" hss tool blank mounted in a holder. I don't know if you will be able to tell from the picture but the center is relieved to help provide a positive cutting action. I didn't get to it sooner because all the kids showed up Sunday and then the rear end in our suburban decided it was done. I got the rebuild kit today and started getting it back together, but the print still isn't quite to my liking. Need to get pinion shims tomorrow and try again. If you have any questions about my ball turner ask away and I'll do my best to answer.

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

Of course I'm no expert but the gear fit looks pretty close to me. Would a hair more pinion shim move it? You're sure not close to any edge.

I can't see the relief on the cutter, I assume you ground it but did you leave a small flat at the cutting edge?

Thanks for posting that.

That really wasn't too bad on the time.

Good trick with the tape.

I was surprised how fast they went. I had a 5 mm bit in 1/4" (6 mm) holes but it would bounce off the sides and center on it's own. I was pleasantly surprised. I'm usually too lazy to put tape down, and it's not a cure all, but it helps.

Andy: it's great how you can change from one project to the next. while you say you are a little CRAMPED most of us would be working outside under the stars in the weather for half the stuff you do cause we just don't have shops as big as yours. LOOKS PRETTY CLEAN TO ME!!

have a great day and the shelving unit is coming along nicely!!

Thanks, Drives. If only I could do a little cleaning I would have more room. And if I would finish a few in progress projects I'd have a lot more room. Not sure jumping between projects is a good thing.

Looking good Andy, that's a lot of holes to drill..

I find making holes boring...

Thanks for the description - I'm going to use that technique! I've had some difficulty dealing with warped boards in the past. I've been hacking wood projects all my life, so it's high time I added some finesse with rabbets, etc.

The hole drilling looks like it went really well. I'm quite surprised how fast it was - definitely good planning and technique.

Feather boards are an old good technique. Setting them where they are firm but not too tight takes some practice. If you are milling small boards, I like to totally enclose them. I call it building a box. You plane a board slightly thicker than the one to be milled (maybe a hundred feet of trim pieces) then clamp a board over that one, to the table and to the fence with just slight clearance for width. Then you push the work into the enclosed box and past the blade, either pulling it out the other end or pushing it through with the next piece of work. For very small pieces you have to make a zero tolerance insert.

Thanks for all the nice comments, guys. Went to my retiree luncheon today and did a little shopping . More work tomorrow!!

 

[jbmatth]

So what did you buy???

JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

So what did you buy???

JB

Not much, an 18v Milwaukee drill for $119. Chuck has worn out on my old one (loosens when I let off the trigger). HD had it with two batteries and a charger for $119, seemed fair. I don't like even looking at tools without batteries. My little Milwaukees run a long time on a charge and I like the charge indicator on the battery. I got mine free when a burglar abandoned, a drill and a driver. He never came back.

 

[carlquib]

Of course I'm no expert but the gear fit looks pretty close to me. Would a hair more pinion shim move it? You're sure not close to any edge.



I can't see the relief on the cutter, I assume you ground it but did you leave a small flat at the cutting edge?

Thanks Andy, my gear fit up was pretty close. It only took moving the pinion in .003" to get the gear lash into spec. Now if I could only figure out how to do one of these without having to take everything in and out ten times. [emoji6]

I'll try and get some better pictures of the the relief on my cutters. I have some that are ground to a sharp edge and others that leave a little bit of a land, just depends how hard the material you are cutting is. You can also just grind an angled face onto the end of the cutter. Watch out if you use an angled grind, if they are to positive it can have a tendency to dig in and chatter.

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: I love my Milwaukee drills and tools and i've yet to buy any of their battery powered tools. sounds like you love them? I bought Ryobi 18v tools when their batteries were **** and now that their batteries are awesome I just keep adding to the Ryobi 18v tool line. my favorite Ryobi 18v tools are the little impact driver and the chainsaw. you really can't believe how great it is to have a light little chain saw and my Ryobi 18v one can cut 6-10 inch limbs or a tree pretty quick if the blade is sharp.

if you melted Alloy 400 would it maybe change the properties of it?

enjoy your day.

 

[jimreed2160]

My little Milwaukees run a long time on a charge and I like the charge indicator on the battery. I got mine free when a burglar abandoned, a drill and a driver. He never came back.

So Andy gets burglarized but receives a drill and driver? Sounds to me like Ms Karma is taking great care of you. Keep up the good deeds.

 

[Farmall450]

So Andy gets burglarized but receives a drill and driver? Sounds to me like Ms Karma is taking great care of you. Keep up the good deeds.

Oh how the turn tables have turned.

 

[bolensboneyard]

Andy great story. Almost like the rat I found one day that electrocuted himself trying to squeeze through an outlet box. Looked like a little raccoon with large eyes. He was a bandit too.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Thanks Andy, my gear fit up was pretty close. It only took moving the pinion in .003" to get the gear lash into spec. Now if I could only figure out how to do one of these without having to take everything in and out ten times. [emoji6]

I guess after you've done a hundred of them you'd get quicker. Sometimes they can be really frustrating. I guess that means I'm no good at it.

I'll try and get some better pictures of the the relief on my cutters. I have some that are ground to a sharp edge and others that leave a little bit of a land, just depends how hard the material you are cutting is. You can also just grind an angled face onto the end of the cutter. Watch out if you use an angled grind, if they are to positive it can have a tendency to dig in and chatter.

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

Thanks for the update on the cutter. I'd like to see pictures of what you're using.

Andy: I love my Milwaukee drills and tools and i've yet to buy any of their battery powered tools. sounds like you love them? I bought Ryobi 18v tools when their batteries were **** and now that their batteries are awesome I just keep adding to the Ryobi 18v tool line. my favorite Ryobi 18v tools are the little impact driver and the chainsaw. you really can't believe how great it is to have a light little chain saw and my Ryobi 18v one can cut 6-10 inch limbs or a tree pretty quick if the blade is sharp.

if you melted Alloy 400 would it maybe change the properties of it?

enjoy your day.

I think Ryobi makes great tools. I've never bought any but have used some other guys have brought to job.

My helper likes his Milwaukee tools and when I got mine by default I like them, just decided to expand the fleet.

I don't believe Monel alloys are hardened through heat treatment but do benefit from post weld heat treatment. It should work harden, however, which could also be relieved through heat treatment.

Had a good day!

So Andy gets burglarized but receives a drill and driver? Sounds to me like Ms Karma is taking great care of you. Keep up the good deeds.

Well, it was a trailer house on land I had for sale which was burglarized while we were renovating it. They left their truck too. And they were caught after they'd wandered through the woods. The wrecker driver coming to impound their truck spotted them on the highway. They were covered in ticks.

Oh how the turn tables have turned.

Andy great story. Almost like the rat I found one day that electrocuted himself trying to squeeze through an outlet box. Looked like a little raccoon with large eyes. He was a bandit too.

Reminds me of rats which tried to steal some copper from a live feeder. Their bolt cutters and arms vaporized. I guess it was quick.

Made a little more progress on the first shelving unit. Boy am I ever slow.

I set my dado head for the plywood. I like a friction slip fit. This is not a really good picture, but the piece I'm holding is holding the other piece firmly with no glue or nails.

Had to go to the area in front of the Coke machine to assemble. Just not enough room in the wood shop. The sides are bowed so there's a shelf and shim to hold them straight.

The back went on easily.

Time for trim then filling and sanding before painting.

I'm also working on an antique dressing table and need a long clamp to clamp some loose and warped veneer. So I decided to make a deep reach clamp. Seems like an aluminum one will work well, so I cut out a pattern for cutting a foam blank.

Maybe I'll get some shop time tomorrow. We've had a tough week. My friend who has the portable sawmill was killed at work. He was the Pawnee County Undersheriff, Monty Johnson. He will be sorely missed. He was a blacksmith buddy too. All around great guy.

Spend time with your family and friends. Never know when you won't come home from work.

 

[dchance]

Andy, hate to hear about your friend. You are right we never do
know what a day will hold.

Dwight

 

[cdsloop]

I'm sorry for the loss of your friend. It sounds like he was a great guy.

 

[jbmatth]

Andy,
I am saddened by they news of the loss of your friend. I wish you and his family the best.
JB

 

[realvc]

Sorry for your loss, prayers for his family and for you.

Vince

 

[oldironfarmer]

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Bob's silent friend is a comfort in times like these.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: Very sorry to hear about your friend. it sounds like he was just in the wrong place at the wrong time. why is it that the driver in a car or truck in this case that causes the accident usually is the survivor? Monte sounded like a great guy and I'm sending a prayer that his family will be ok!!