Cleaning up Vintage tools
- Thread starter Johnnyo
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jakemac
Well-known member
Degreasing/cleaning - Simple Green
Derusting -
- plated (chrome, nickel) - CLR
- bare metal - EvapoRust
If a wire wheel is needed - only a fine wire wheel.
If buffing - Red or White rouge
Derusting -
- plated (chrome, nickel) - CLR
- bare metal - EvapoRust
If a wire wheel is needed - only a fine wire wheel.
If buffing - Red or White rouge
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jakemac
Well-known member
CLR is made to be used on chrome plumbing fittings, so it works a little slower and gentler than EvapoRust or Vinagar. But if left too long it can still eat the chrome.
On older plated tools, if you see a white foam developing pull the tool out and rinse in clean water to neutralize the CLR. The foam indicates that the plating material is starting to be affected.
On older plated tools, if you see a white foam developing pull the tool out and rinse in clean water to neutralize the CLR. The foam indicates that the plating material is starting to be affected.
ZRX61
Well-known member
I got pretty spiffy results on some old rusty Craftsman sockets with my deburring wheel.
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11952030_10206335668063345_1992946169781342128_n.jpg?oh=eaebed267059f64770fb9f6d2ce6fe58&oe=582C0902
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11150833_10206335669223374_3872561104192946660_n.jpg?oh=98ac3d984225f09cab50015417a9ade7&oe=57EF1037
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11952030_10206335668063345_1992946169781342128_n.jpg?oh=eaebed267059f64770fb9f6d2ce6fe58&oe=582C0902
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11150833_10206335669223374_3872561104192946660_n.jpg?oh=98ac3d984225f09cab50015417a9ade7&oe=57EF1037
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ZRX61
Well-known member
This was rusted solid, I beadblasted it, freed it up & then wirewheeled it:
How I found it:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/563986_3279115749520_1854165463_n.jpg?oh=cfae64acfeafa5174771d676f7668928&oe=57F9DE01
Beadblasted & freed up:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/563986_3279115829522_817308586_n.jpg?oh=f17efdb2571e43d706848f80c6f01876&oe=57E9D9E2
wirewheeled:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/563986_3279115909524_1237809242_n.jpg?oh=86e49afedd98513f9ebe047a82f43376&oe=57F39B2A
How I found it:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/563986_3279115749520_1854165463_n.jpg?oh=cfae64acfeafa5174771d676f7668928&oe=57F9DE01
Beadblasted & freed up:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/563986_3279115829522_817308586_n.jpg?oh=f17efdb2571e43d706848f80c6f01876&oe=57E9D9E2
wirewheeled:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/563986_3279115909524_1237809242_n.jpg?oh=86e49afedd98513f9ebe047a82f43376&oe=57F39B2A
Ramper
Well-known member
I have cleaned many vintage tools, but my issue has been what to put on them AFTER I have cleaned then. I have gone to heating them up in an oven and the dunking them in oil. Is there a better way?
There's more then one way to skin a cat but I like Molasses (feed grade). It's a chelating style rust remover that's safe on the base metal. You cut it 10:1 with water. (it's cheap when you buy it at a feed store in a 2.5 gallon pail).
Throw the tools in a tote with the solution and then come back in a week and check the progress. It works slow and gentle.
After the rust is gone you can use a fine scotch brite pad, fine wire wheel, brass brush etc.
Throw the tools in a tote with the solution and then come back in a week and check the progress. It works slow and gentle.
After the rust is gone you can use a fine scotch brite pad, fine wire wheel, brass brush etc.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
General rust cleanup on lightly rusted and unplated tools - fine wire wheel or E-tank
Plated tools with surface rust - oil and 0000 steel wool or sometimes water and SOS pad (Not Brillo its too coarse)
De-greasing - SG generally, solvents for really tough stuff in gradually increasing strengths, but generally starting with lighter fluid/Naphtha/Coleman fuel (same stuff), and moving up from there. For painted tool boxes I'll start with WD-40
Plated tools with surface rust - oil and 0000 steel wool or sometimes water and SOS pad (Not Brillo its too coarse)
De-greasing - SG generally, solvents for really tough stuff in gradually increasing strengths, but generally starting with lighter fluid/Naphtha/Coleman fuel (same stuff), and moving up from there. For painted tool boxes I'll start with WD-40
I remove bubbly or crusty rust (hematite) by hand scraping with stiff putty knives, drywall blades, screwdrivers, dental picks. I try to pick a tool slightly softer than the object, so a slip doesn't leave a gouge. Stainless is usually a safe bet. Last step is a fine wire brush. Been using a battery brush for inside sockets. Maybe it's my imagination, but I stopped using wire wheels because I had the impression they were magnetizing the tools. And the broken off wires get into EVERYTHING.
On plain steel, my usual goal is not to reveal bright metal but to leave a thin layer of magnetite - this is a natural blued finish. To help prevent further oxidation, I scrub in boot sealer with a toothbrush, and wipe it down with paper towel.
This is labor intensive, but makes NO chemical change to the surface of the steel, and at the speed of hand work, I can really control the process. I've done a couple dozen hand saws this way.
If I do want a bright metal finish, I still give it a scrape to see the degree of pitting. Deep pits will look worse on bright than dark steel. Then I use sandpaper on a block, moving to finer and finer grit.
On plain steel, my usual goal is not to reveal bright metal but to leave a thin layer of magnetite - this is a natural blued finish. To help prevent further oxidation, I scrub in boot sealer with a toothbrush, and wipe it down with paper towel.
This is labor intensive, but makes NO chemical change to the surface of the steel, and at the speed of hand work, I can really control the process. I've done a couple dozen hand saws this way.
If I do want a bright metal finish, I still give it a scrape to see the degree of pitting. Deep pits will look worse on bright than dark steel. Then I use sandpaper on a block, moving to finer and finer grit.
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ekegelmann
Well-known member
Vinegar.....white distilled. Works great.
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Bierisch
Well-known member
UH Exsqueeze me, how did those sockets go from being pitted with rust to being that smooth and shiny with flawlessly smooth surfaces?
ZRX61
Well-known member
One of these mounted to a bench grinder:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381694858709?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
& hardly any pressure applied. I got the sockets at a yard sale for a few bucks so I wasn't too worried about making a complete *** of it. Pleasantly surprised at the results
The inside of the sockets still look like ****, but that will get taken care of with glassbeading at some point.
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dkroth
Well-known member
EvapoRust works by chelation. It does not affect chrome at all, though it will turn high carbon steel black.
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ekegelmann
Well-known member
Does vinegar ear chrome away?
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Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
ZRX61
Well-known member
It's like scotchbrite, but a lot denser. Burns like a ***** when you accidentally slip & stick a knuckle into it.Those sockets look great ZRX, nice job! Is that deburring wheel stone or cloth? Hard to tell from pic in link that you put up. I'd like to try that out
& they last forever so long as you don't try cleaning anything sharp at the wrong angle.
Shiftless
Well-known member
I put an extension on the crusty socket before I take it to the wheel. Keeps my knuckles well clear of danger. Just make sure it fits tightly. Safety first.
ZRX61
Well-known member
I didn't do the knuckle/wheel stunt with the sockets, but I've done it a time or 5 in the past.
Safety third!
Also: if you're rolling the socket or whatever on the edge of the wheel, try to keep that action to one side of the wheel so the other stays 90deg & only one gets rounded off.
Safety third!
Also: if you're rolling the socket or whatever on the edge of the wheel, try to keep that action to one side of the wheel so the other stays 90deg & only one gets rounded off.
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r_olson_06
Well-known member
Evaporust is amazing for rust. Just have to be careful to wipe it off it will get sticky.
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Bierisch
Well-known member
And it was just the wheel? No polishing with anything? It just came out shiny that way?
I had a small wheel like that for a dremel that I took to a surface rust covered revolved and it just looks matte now. not shiny.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Short answer: Yes. If deep pitted, Evaporust or a molasses solution there...
If surface rust/stains, SOS pad and water, or 0000 steel wool and oil.
I just did the chrome on a scale with 0000 and oil...
Outlawmws
Well-known member
One of these mounted to a bench grinder:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381694858709?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
& hardly any pressure applied. I got the sockets at a yard sale for a few bucks so I wasn't too worried about making a complete *** of it. Pleasantly surprised at the results
The inside of the sockets still look like ****, but that will get taken care of with glassbeading at some point.
ZRX, I need to break down and get one of those wheels...
ZRX61
Well-known member
Yup, I was surprised at how well it worked
...of course there is a downside.... Now when I see rusty sockets for sale I won't be so quick to ignore them....
ZRX61
Well-known member
They tend to have large holes in the middle, so be sure to pick up those plastic spacers they sell to sleeve down the hole to fit your grinder. I think this one had a 1in hole
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I saw 3m surface conditioning pad for belt sander like that the other day too.
How about cad plated tools? I seem to lose a lot of plating with either vinegar or evaporust if I leave them in long enough to do much.
How about cad plated tools? I seem to lose a lot of plating with either vinegar or evaporust if I leave them in long enough to do much.
ZRX61
Well-known member
Can't speak about cad plating on tools, but on hardware we've used acid to strip the cad off them & then had them replated. Local shop has a $45 minimum, but we've sent so much stuff there over the years that the foreman usually throws the stuff in with someone elses order & does it for beer money
Al Borland
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
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For mild rust and pitting, try Barkeeper's Friend. Won't hurt existing/remaining Chrome.
It helps to polish the tool as well as remove rust.
It helps to polish the tool as well as remove rust.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
IIR Barkeepers friend has a mild abrasive in it as well as oxalic acid.
Hornman
Well-known member
Feldspar. Very mild abrasive. Makes scratches so fine, they cannot be seen by an unaded eye.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I would expect that barkeepers friend, rubbed on chrome, could dull it...
ZRX61
Well-known member
places that do show chrome on customs will tell the owners not to use anything more abrasive than Windex..