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Clear coating over BenMoore M40

YEL-LOW

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Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
2
Hello all. This is my first post but I have lurked around for some time. I have just recently finished putting down my 100% solids epoxy M40 Ben Moore coating. I bought two 5 gallon kits and two gallons of the M41 clear sealer/primer. This stuff sure is expensive but damn worth it. The finished product is amazing! Its so great that now I am wondering if I should put down a clear to protect the epoxy that was originally put down to protect my concrete.

I don't think I really want to go back to the M41 stuff because it was thick as honey and rather hard to get a good even coat. It serves well as a sealer but I don't think I would be happy with it as a clear. My thoughts are to go with Rust-oleum's 2 part solvent epoxy. Does anyone have any input to this as far as coating over dis-similar coatings? The M40 is 100% solids and the Rust-oleum has some solvent in it. How durable is the stuff and where can I get it from? I thought HD would carry it but everyone there is clueless as how to order and get it. Should I just let the M40 be and move my equipment back?
 
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bmwpower

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Hello all. This is my first post but I have lurked around for some time. I have just recently finished putting down my 100% solids epoxy M40 Ben Moore coating. I bought two 5 gallon kits and two gallons of the M41 clear sealer/primer. This stuff sure is expensive but damn worth it. The finished product is amazing! Its so great that now I am wondering if I should put down a clear to protect the epoxy that was originally put down to protect my concrete.

I don't think I really want to go back to the M41 stuff because it was thick as honey and rather hard to get a good even coat. It serves well as a sealer but I don't think I would be happy with it as a clear. My thoughts are to go with Rust-oleum's 2 part solvent epoxy. Does anyone have any input to this as far as coating over dis-similar coatings? The M40 is 100% solids and the Rust-oleum has some solvent in it. How durable is the stuff and where can I get it from? I thought HD would carry it but everyone there is clueless as how to order and get it. Should I just let the M40 be and move my equipment back?

Needs picts of that Ben Moore coating. Painter friend tried to talk me into it before I went with ArmorSeal.

Better find out if they're compatible before you coat with a different product...you may have adhesion problems.
 
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YEL-LOW

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Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
2
I have made the decision not to clear coat with any product after some more research.

My reasons being are:
The Ben Moore "industrial" coatings are super duty industrial coatings designed for forklift and chemical plant operations. Nothing rustoleum re-packages can even come close to its adhesive and abrasion resistance. Coating with their clear would be foolish at this point.

If and whenever my machinery gouges at the floor or we end up doing serious damage to the floor we can just order up smaller batches of the Ben Moore stuff and just prep and recoat. No need to clean up the clear and apply two types of coatings to repair small damages.

Adding two types of coatings/layers increases chances of surface failure. A single uniform solid coating is always better than two dis-similar coatings of varying properties.

My lab works under high lights for less strain on the eyes when dealing with small parts and assemblies. All clear coatings will eventually turn color and/or yellow. With the lighting we have it would surely show through.

I don't know why I did not come to these conclusions a bit earlier but that's my conclusion. If anyone else has anything to add please let me know.

I will take some pictures later on in the week. We are in the process of moving equipment back in and items are scattered throughout the floor.

I would say this... if you did buy the Ben Moore stuff you would have ZERO regrets other than maybe the small premium you pay for "quality" stuff. It is super hard when cured.

I'll give you a bit of anecdotal proof... when applying the coating we left the 5 gallon metal container we were pouring out of on some concrete outside. The drippings down the side eventually coated the bottom rim of the container. We could not get the container off for the life of us. We eventually ran a forklift into it and the can didn't BUDGE!!! We had to shred the can and grind out the remaining metal rim on the concrete.

Let me see other coatings do that!!

Edit: Nice garage BMW... I bet that amorseal stuff is pretty much equivalent to the M40. Both in either case are far superior to the water based products out there.
 
Last edited:

winkabob

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
7
when applying the coating we left the 5 gallon metal container we were pouring out of on some concrete outside. The drippings down the side eventually coated the bottom rim of the container. We could not get the container off for the life of us. We eventually ran a forklift into it and the can didn't BUDGE!!! We had to shred the can and grind out the remaining metal rim on the concrete.

.

Wow! Note to self - If I use the Ben Moore product make sure to get a drip pan!
 

fotoflojoe

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Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
1,229
Location
Boston, Ma/South Shore
Hello all. This is my first post but I have lurked around for some time. I have just recently finished putting down my 100% solids epoxy M40 Ben Moore coating. I bought two 5 gallon kits and two gallons of the M41 clear sealer/primer. This stuff sure is expensive but damn worth it. The finished product is amazing! Its so great that now I am wondering if I should put down a clear to protect the epoxy that was originally put down to protect my concrete.

I don't think I really want to go back to the M41 stuff because it was thick as honey and rather hard to get a good even coat. It serves well as a sealer but I don't think I would be happy with it as a clear. My thoughts are to go with Rust-oleum's 2 part solvent epoxy. Does anyone have any input to this as far as coating over dis-similar coatings? The M40 is 100% solids and the Rust-oleum has some solvent in it. How durable is the stuff and where can I get it from? I thought HD would carry it but everyone there is clueless as how to order and get it. Should I just let the M40 be and move my equipment back?

I have M41/M40 kits ready to go for my garage as soon as the weather warms above 55 degrees.

Couple questions for you:

- Did you apply multiple coats of M40?
- How is the finish holding up?
- How long did you let cure time elapse between M41 and M40?
- Are there any pictures of the install?

Thanks
 

Mordi

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Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
80
Location
San Diego, CA
I recently was provided the following recommendations for Benjamin floor products for my garage floor application:

1) Clean with Oil and Grease Emulsifier M83

2) Etch with Concrete Pretreatment and Etch M85

3) Prime with Epoxy Penetrating Bonding Sealer Finish M35

4) Coat with 100% Solids Epoxy Floor Coating M40

5) Top Coat with Clear Aliphatic Acrylic Urethane Gloss M74/M75 - 2 component

This system is supposed to produce a tuff system that looks like glass :thumbup:

Mordi
 
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hungwin jza80

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Northern Virginia
With Wolverine all but eliminating DIY sales, I am headed in the direction of using the Benjamin Moore M41/M40 combination as well.

Some questions, however:
1. My garage is 18'Wx19'D (~340 SF). M41, when used as a sealer, has a recommended spread rate of 325 SF/gallon. Do I mix up two gallons and apply a relatively heavy coat or use one gallon at a time in thin coats? The spread rate of M40 is 200 SF/gallon, so two gallons per layer would make sense, correct?
2. Per the M40 application instructions for the Finish Coat, it recommends adding one (1) pint of Epoxy Thinner (M95) per three gallon kit to aid in eliminating potential bubbling and slowing the set time for the product. For those that DIY'ed, did you incorporate any M95? I'm concerned that it will "water down" the product.
3. I am undecided on the use of the Anti-Slip Aggregate (M67). I don't typically drive the garaged cars in the rain, so liquids would only be present if I bring the car(s) back into the garage after a bath. Any advice?
4. I echo fotoflojoe's question of the time between applying M41 and M40.
5. Mordi - the Step 3 recommended to you seems to contradict BenMoore's advice of applying M41 as the penetrating sealer that preps the floor for M40.


Can those of you who've installed the product post pictures? If you need help with hosting, I can host the pics for you - just shoot me a PM.

This installer has pictures of their install, but I cannot nail down what the light color is:
Sticky Feet Manufacturer's Page - Benjamin Moore
http://benjaminmoore.stickyfeetfloors.com/

I love how light and reflective the floor looks in the "Community Center" pics!!!


Thanks,

Hung :thumbup:
 

Mordi

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Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
80
Location
San Diego, CA
Hung,

The use of M35 in lieu of M41 as the primer may be location related as I am in Southern Califiornia. I am guessing the M41 may not be available out here (VOC compliance issue) :headscrat

Mordi
 

Mordi

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Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
80
Location
San Diego, CA
Hung,

Regarding the anti slip, I was advised against it, as it was explained to me that it tends to trap dirt.

Mordi
 

WolverineCoatings

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
833
Location
Spartanburg, SC
With Wolverine all but eliminating DIY sales, I am headed in the direction of using the Benjamin Moore M41/M40 combination as well.

Sorry again guys... I'm at least still trying to contribute here... We have found someone who is willing to sell to the DIYers out of California but it will be May before he completes his training. I'll direct him here when he can handle it... Thanks again for the support. It's nice to feel appreciated.
 

MrCrewcab

Active member
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
37
Location
Great White North
You should look into a Canadian distributor as well, I am really wanting to install something onto my garage floor and I'm not alone. Yesterday there was a two page article about people wanting showcase garages complete with stainless cabinets, tile backsplashes and the works. All include epoxy floors.

Its the rage right now, not saying that its right or not but wow what a market.

I am in western Canada and not sure if its the same out East or not but maybe some one from Ontario could comment.

just my 2¢ plus tax
 

hungwin jza80

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Northern Virginia
Hung,

The use of M35 in lieu of M41 as the primer may be location related as I am in Southern Califiornia. I am guessing the M41 may not be available out here (VOC compliance issue) :headscrat

Mordi

Ahhh... makes sense re: VOC's!!!

Hung,

Regarding the anti slip, I was advised against it, as it was explained to me that it tends to trap dirt.

Mordi

Thanks for the advice Mordi. Dirt-trappiness is definitely not one of the attributes I want! ;)


Does anyone have pics to post?
 
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