I've read alot about the expoxy floor finishes, roll out floor coverings,etc but was wondering if anyone has used and is happy with a brand of a clear concrete floor finish for your garage? At work in the storage area they use a product from Johnson Wax called Fortify. The floor dosen't see any vehicle traffic, just foot traffic. There was also a product called Thia (SP?) that is no longer available that was used in our fire station that has held up good under the weight and hot tires of fire trucks. I had to have part of my floor repoured because the concrete guy didn't cut a control joint and it cracked about two months after we moved in. Well the sealer he put down on the original concrete was applied unevenly so my floor is gray, dark gray and real dark where his sprayer wasn't working just right. The new part is much lighter color although I can see where it's darker in some areas because he put it on heavy. My plan is to rent one of the orbital floor scrubbers and try to make it look more uniform, then apply a clear with anything that can be applied with a cotton mop or sparayed and then rolled with a paint roller. Any suggestions?? Thanks!!!!
clear floor finishes?
- Thread starter sjsfire
- Start date
Dave Carney
Well-known member
do a search for tung oil
ZRWON
Well-known member
Are you suggesting using tung oil as a sealer for concrete floors???Dave Carney said:
I've used it on wood for years but never considered or heard of it being used on concrete.
oldgoat
Well-known member
I am going to be sealing my garage floor with a 50/50 mix of kerosene and tung oil. The son in laws dad is foreman for a company that does commercial buildings and have used it with good results.
dboat
Well-known member
oldgoat said:
Wow, this is a new one on me.. I have never heard of anyone doing this.. how long does it last? what does it look like?
Dana
oldgoat
Well-known member
I understand that it will last about 3- 5 years generally before recoating to repell water and oil. Suppose to not change the color very much, but I haven't seen it yet. Will probably put it down in a few weeks after insulating, sheetrocking and painting. His dad said that it would be better to do it last rather than first. One thing is though that you shouldn't plan on being able to paint over it later, but if you need to touch up it is simple.
The tung oil/kerosene sounds interesting but I did a search on Google and didn't find anything about using tung oil on concrete. I'll keep looking and if anyone else has any info on it I'd be interested in hearing about it....
*oldgoat. If possible please let us know how it turns out.....
*oldgoat. If possible please let us know how it turns out.....
Dave Carney
Well-known member
sjsfire said:The tung oil/kerosene sounds interesting but I did a search on Google and didn't find anything about using tung oil on concrete. I'll keep looking and if anyone else has any info on it I'd be interested in hearing about it....
*oldgoat. If possible please let us know how it turns out.....
UPS uses tung oil, they have some experience
oldgoat
Well-known member
Saw the dad tonight and he said that you put it on and then sweegie the excess off. Then take a buffer to it. Be real careful when using the buffer because you will be on a slick surface and instead of the buffer wheel spinning you can be the one going around instead. After about a week some more of the excess will come back out and you can buff it again. Like I said though I haven't seen it or had it put on yet so I can't say first hand about it. It will probably be a few weeks before we put it on though.
TheShrine
Well-known member
This is an old thread but I found it interesting concerning the kerosene and tung oil.
I've never used tung oil but I have used linseed oil and kerosene. Our maid in Guadalajara insists on the mixture "every time" she mops. When we had the floors installed, primarily the Mexican clay tile with some bare concrete, the man in charge said to coat (4 times) the floors with a half and half mixture of linseed oil and kerosene. You mop it on, wait 30 minutes while it soaks in and do it again. He said you'll never have to polish it and it'll repel stains.
Now when Lupe mops, she adds a cap of linseed oil and a cap full kerosene to her mop water and maintains the deep color of the tile and the water proof - ness of both the tile and concrete. Once it's down there is none of the slippery feel you'd expect. Of course the mop and bucket is used exclusively for this purpose. It also seals the grout as well.
I've never used tung oil but I have used linseed oil and kerosene. Our maid in Guadalajara insists on the mixture "every time" she mops. When we had the floors installed, primarily the Mexican clay tile with some bare concrete, the man in charge said to coat (4 times) the floors with a half and half mixture of linseed oil and kerosene. You mop it on, wait 30 minutes while it soaks in and do it again. He said you'll never have to polish it and it'll repel stains.
Now when Lupe mops, she adds a cap of linseed oil and a cap full kerosene to her mop water and maintains the deep color of the tile and the water proof - ness of both the tile and concrete. Once it's down there is none of the slippery feel you'd expect. Of course the mop and bucket is used exclusively for this purpose. It also seals the grout as well.
dodgepolara500
Well-known member
Geez, doesn't the kerosene have a strong smell? Is it flamable to any degree?
H&C clear for living areas with acrylic floor finish over it. For the shop Rexathane clear from sherwin williams works well. I did the redneck version of polished concrete. I used my floor buffer to smooth the concete before acid staining. It worked well.
DarthMuffin
Member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2008
- Messages
- 12
I used to work for a concrete company (did the computers, so I'm not a concrete guru) and they always recommended Super Diamond Clear for coating concrete.
http://www.euclidchemical.com/product_detail.asp?id=56&pselect=233&cselect=253&tselect=288#233
I've used it on a previous garage, as well as walkways and driveways. My only complaint is that it doesn't hold up to chemicals -- gasoline, etc. so it may not work for you depending on your application. For like a wood shop, or for walkways and driveways I would use it again. It holds up well and looks good, sort of a "wet" look.
http://www.euclidchemical.com/product_detail.asp?id=56&pselect=233&cselect=253&tselect=288#233
I've used it on a previous garage, as well as walkways and driveways. My only complaint is that it doesn't hold up to chemicals -- gasoline, etc. so it may not work for you depending on your application. For like a wood shop, or for walkways and driveways I would use it again. It holds up well and looks good, sort of a "wet" look.
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