To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Clear floor vs. non-clear two post lifts

greenbank

Active member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
40
Location
Whidbey Island, Washington
After months of watching CL for two post lifts, I'm pretty much resigned to buying new (I hate buying new; I'm if anything a spendthrift but much prefer for someone else to take the "ooh shiny!" hit, new shiny pushes no buttons for me ;) ). And I'm pretty clear on wanting a certified lift. But now I wonder if I should get a low-column lift. Feedback appreciated.

My use: Hobby. I restore and work on old British cars, mostly. Can see needing to service my '68 F250, which is 4800 with fuel in it. Most of my stuff weighs less than 3500, most way less.

Here's where the lift is going, in theory:

lift_dilemma.jpg


Between the wall and the inside of the truss is 11'2". The height under the truss is 9'. The ceiling height isn't a problem. So here are my thoughts and issues:

1) A number of lifts will just squeak into the space, with their column a smidge from the truss and the outside of the opposite baseplate near the wall. The wall face is about 8" from the edge of the slab. This has me a little concerned, though seems to be within spec, depending on the manufacturer. The slab is pretty nice quality actually, it's been there almost a decade and over the entire 36 x 48 slab there are only a few tiny cracks, no spalling or other signs of failure anywhere. It is 4" thick.

2) It occurs to me that a hoist designed for low ceilings might be coaxed to place one post under the truss. I cannot afford a Mohawk, and it looks like most low-ceiling lifts have columns just slightly too high. I'd be a bit concerned about losing the clear floor even if I could find a low-ceiling hoist with columns shorter than 9'. Is lack of clear-floor a legit concern or no big deal? I'm just over 6' and would want the hoist to be able to lift a car so my head wasn't getting greasy, so 7' would easily do it, 6'6" would probably be fine, too.

3) I don't want to put one post on the "wrong" side of the truss and run the overhead through it. Aesthetics aside, it will affect my planned use of the non-hoist side.

Any thoughts, insights, tips appreciated.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

CARS

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
535
Location
New Ulm, MN
One thing that kind of concerns me about your post is the 4" slab. Is that acceptable? Lifting your truck and working under it would really scare me with a 4" slab.

I've worked with both clear floor and the floor plates. Clear is best, but after a bit you get use to the plate. About the only time it gets in the way is moving a transmission jack or some other rolling cart.
 

Dragster Racer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
1,891
Location
Morrison, IL
I really like the clear. One less thing to trip over or move the jack or engine hoist around. 4" could be a concern though. I bought a used Ammco from a place that downsized. Love it. Price was right, and only a couple things I had to fix on it.
 

Lotek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
9,098
Location
Los Angeles, Ca.
I would try to get a clear floor type since I assume you will be pushing dead cars on and off. (insert Lucas joke here), I have worked on one and it is a real pita, especially if you work alone.
 
OP
G

greenbank

Active member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
40
Location
Whidbey Island, Washington
What I know about lifts you can fit on one side of a postcard, writing in big letters, but nearly all of them say 4" minimum slab. If I need more, I guess I'll have to wait for awhile to get one, or go four post, which seem like a huge hassle for someone who wants to do a lot of work with as little obstruction under the car as possible.
 

darkk

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2009
Messages
3,361
Location
Willimantic, Ct.
Most two post lifts require 4" thick at 3000psi concrete. New 2 post lifts are very reasonably priced. Have you considered a 4 post lift. Clear floor span and you can safely park under it.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Ohio Auto

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
1,494
Location
Ohio
1. Clear
2. Regarding concrete...do what I'm going to do. Cut a square out of your concrete..large enough and then some for the footprint of your lift pillers. Rent an auger and drill/fill concrete piers for the pillers to sit on. Cheaper than tearing up your floor and from what I"ve been told by concrete guys it works very well.
 

6768rogues

Banned
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
4,524
Location
Western NY
I have an open top lift. No upper bar to think about when raising a truck or van. The floor plate is only about an inch high and has tapered edges, so it is easy to roll a car over.
 
OP
G

greenbank

Active member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
40
Location
Whidbey Island, Washington
See that Dannmar now has an ALI-certified 10,000 pound two-post lift for narrow spaces which I can get for $2200 delivered, so that has pretty much decided me. I can put it in my bay and still have the outside bolts two feet from the edge of the slab, more or less. I might need to fold the camper mirrors on my Ford to fit, it might be tight otherwise.
 
OP
G

greenbank

Active member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
40
Location
Whidbey Island, Washington
Just wanted to add that I dug out the receipts for the shop building the previous owner's widow gave us...36 x 48 slab, guy paid for 26.67 yards of concrete, they poured 27. That's a 5" slab. So I have that going for me, I hope.
 

mustangmike68

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Messages
52
Location
nevada
I have a rotary floor plate 9000 lb lift. they only required 4in minimum thickness on concrete. I bought it used so i didn't have a choice on the floor plate. Have done several transmissions and the floor plate is not that big of a deal. but if buying new i would go clear floor.
mike
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom