Close Quarters Cutter for Brass

[mobiledynamics]

Close Quarters Cutter for Thick Walled Pipe

I just tried swapping the wheel off my other cutters onto the close quarters as the wheel size on the close is not deep enough for brass pipe. No bueno.

Anyhow, off to do some research as I need a close cutters that has a wheel deep enough for brass pipe.

Not enough for clearance for anything but a close quarters

-----
Fck. Check with Imperial, Rothenberg and Ridgid. Nothing...

Don't want to use anything mechanical like a sawzall ....no vibration. It's 100 yr old piping

 

[rlitman]

Out of curiosity, why are you cutting brass pipe? The brass I'm most familiar with is threaded in IPS sizes, so it doesn't fit any sweat fittings. I've seen other threaded brass that doesn't fit anything made today at all also.

 

[mobiledynamics]

I want to put a ShutOff valve in this particular run.....It's all brass. I was going to cut the pipe on both ends, leaving the stubs.....and then unthread the stubs from the existing IPS fitting (3 way and other end is a elbow). Then it would be

3/4 Female to PP adapter
CU
Valve
CU
3/4 Female to PP adapter

Sounds easy. I was thinking/hoping it was. Then it came to a screeching halt when I realized the close cutter wheel was a -baby sized- wheel

Nobody seems to make a close quarters with a wheel deep enough.
I guess I could use a hand hacksaw...

It's 100 year old piping so I don't plan to use a power tool to minimize on the vibration

 

[The Cobbler]

the issue I see is that you won't find any commercially available fittings to solder to the IPS brass pipe

 

[rlitman]

I want to put a ShutOff valve in this particular run.....It's all brass. I was going to cut the pipe on both ends, leaving the stubs.....and then unthread the stubs from the existing IPS fitting (3 way and other end is a elbow). Then it would be

3/4 IPS to PP adapter
CU
Valve
CU
3/4 IPS to PP adapter

Sounds easy. I was thinking/hoping it was. Then it came to a screeching halt when I realized the close cutter wheel was a -baby sized- wheel

Nobody seems to make a close quarters with a wheel deep enough.
I guess I could use a hand hacksaw...

It's 100 year old piping so I don't plan to use a power tool to minimize on the vibration

If you're tossing the pipe, a fine toothed hacksaw should make short work of it. But are you sure the threaded ends are NPT fittings that your adapters will work in? They probably are, but I have seen weird brass systems that used NLA threads (much finer IIRC), and I'd hate to hear that you cut into a pipe and have a serious snowball.

 

[mobiledynamics]

I've modified 3 runs in this joint. Def have used both CU and Brass adapters where I have just removed off the risers and transition. My memory ain't so good so I'm not sure but I have def. also taken what I have ripped out, cut to length, rethreaded, etc. Pretty sure it's NPT

 

[mobiledynamics]

Typo on my part when I threw in the IPS in the reply.

 

[rlitman]

Sounds good to me then.

 

[mobiledynamics]

I guess I'll **** it up and get the hacksaw.....or not.
I know it's the threads that are making the connection and whatever goop that is in them ....just want to cut down on the vibration. Maybe I'm just over-thinking it given it's age....

 

[rlitman]

I wouldn't say you're overthinking vibration. Though I think that modern brass is actually more brittle than the old stuff (because it's now lead free).

A plumber would probably use the sawzall with a very fine blade. If you've got the right touch, it shouldn't be too risky. A hacksaw is quieter, and a little less risky.

 

[mobiledynamics]

I posted this once....last year I had my boiler guy out. Tried to sweet talk carmine into rework we're discussing that now I'm DIY. Unless he knows something I don't know, he wasn't too keen on touching the old pipework. Me, eh, I'm okay, as long as I walk into it knowing I walked into it knowing I made that decision ;-)

 

[like2wheel]

What about a 3" cut off wheel on a die grinder?
A gentile touch would keep the disturbance down.

 

[fitter30]

Re: Close Quarters Cutter for Thick Walled Pipe

Dremel with a cut off wheel vary little vibration

Sent from my KFDOWI using Tapatalk

 

[danski0224]

Why would vibration be a big concern with brass piping?

The brass doesn't rust. If it is corroded inside due to water problems, you won't know until you touch it...

A reciprocating saw or hacksaw both have the risk of binding during cutting.

I'd be more apt to use a bandsaw if there is access. Second choice would be an oscillating multi tool.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Dan -

Bandsaw on hand and I think you are right on the tool of choice. Not that it was remotely even on my radar to take a large honking tool like that on a 3/4 pipe . See, that's why these threads are helpful. Just to get that different angle of approach.

The Vert piece I am cutting is coming off a underground indoor run.
I can fix what's above grade easily. Not so easy if below

So right below me buried I know is at least threaded elbow...It's 100 yr old pipework. My boiler man Carmine wasn't even too keen on touching it . If a -pro- ain't got the cajones to touch it, should this weekend warrior do..

 

[danski0224]

I wouldn't touch it either if the customer expected a fixed price... which is what many expect.

I'm not eating an unforeseeable possible problem that can get out of hand quickly.

A quote for "best outcome" plus T&M for the worst outcome, sure.

 

[59 wagon man]

there is an old time pipe called tubular brass i believe saw it in several older buildings in NY looks like copper but it is a slightly different size and if i remeber correctly we brazed it rather than solder it