Clutch help.

[PSYCHOBILLY]

Replaced everything yesterday. Clutch master cylinder, clutch kit(throw out bearing pressure plate and clutch) and slave clyinder. Found the old slave cylinder leaking and said since we have it off we'll do everything else. I have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 2wd (wifes truck). Bled the **** out of it and still no clutch. My dad called ford and they didnt start recording parts until 2001. The manafacture date of my truck is 8/2000 and my dad thinks maybe the clutch master cylinder is an 01' part. Ford said its a possibility. Any ideas or help guys?

 

[cwolfley]

?????? what dont understand what your question is.......


8/2000 = 2001

 

[rburke65]

I would think the question is.."Why doesn't my hyd. clutch work?"

 

[robertearl]

Is the clutch peddle hard and you can not push it down?

Is the clutch peddle realllllll easy to push??

Is the slave mounted external to the bell housing where you can take it off and see if when you press the clutch, the slave moves or is it internal to the bell housing and a huge pain to get off????

When you say that you have no clutch, do you mean that you press the pedal down and it feels normal but the clutch does not disengage?

Is the clutch disengaged all the time?

Did you bench bleed the master before you put it on??

Do you see any leaks??

Kinda need more info.

Reb

 

[krusty the clown]

rangers are very hard to bleed. start by gravity bleeding the system then manually bleed it.

 

[Dmaxman]

Is this one of the ones with the throw out bearing and slave cylinder as one unit? Has the hard plastic line connecting master to slave. If i recall the angle of the master for the clutch allows air to stay trapped...even with a pressure bleeder we could not get a good pedal. I ended up going under the dash to the clutch pedal, disconnecting the rod, pull the boot back where it goes in to the master and removing the retaining clip. Then slowly pulled the rod and piston with seal out just enough to let the air out with some fluid from the backside. Resumed bleeding it like normal after that and it was perfect.

 

[Mr. E]

rangers are very hard to bleed.

This guy is on to something although gravity bleeding did NOTHING for me. The ranger Master cylinder points down so the air trapped in the Master floats up away from the bleed ****** on the end.

A pressure bleeder on the master reservoir will help.

Leave the lines connected to the master but unbolt it from the firewall. Try to position the master as level as possible while it's loose from the pedal & firewall. Jack up the front of the truck and support with jackstands to raise the bleed ****** end of the Master. Bleed Master using a dowel rod (this usually takes 2 people since you can't really move the master away from the firewall much.

Once you feel like the master is full of fluid bolt it to the firewall and bleed bottom of the line (the line has a spring loaded check valve), then snap that into the slave line and bleed the slave.

When I did the clutch & hydraulics in my 2.3 with an M5od it took be 2 days of messing with the hydraulics to get it bled. Listed above was simply the resolution to my issue, skipping all the stuff I tried that didn't do jack.

Obviously since my truck is a 2.3 M5od the slave cylinder may be different. You might not have the check valve line, but the master is going to be the same...

Good luck.

 

[197044RT]

I'm currently in the same boat with a 98 Ranger/Mazda. I have gravity and pressure bled and still have air somewhere.

I googled "bleeding hydraulic clutch" and the first few hits were for Ford clutches so I'm assuming it is a common problem. I'm going to try what I found at Rangerstation.com and Explorer4x4.com and also what was posted here to see what works the best.

 

[Mr. E]

Gravity & pressure bleeding won't work if the air is trapped up at the master piston which just so happens to be the highest point in the Ranger hydraulic system... Level that master, or point the end up instead of down and you'll made some progress.

The same (well same problem, opposite angle) thing is true for the brake master in old 70-88 Monte Carlos. You have to bleed the brake master from the lines with the rear of the car jacked up or air get trapped at the end of the master away from the piston.

 

[gunner3773]

I know Rangers are hard to bleed. Phoenixsystem.com sells a reverse brake bleed tool that they claim will successfully bleed a Ranger clutch.

http://www.phoenixsystem.com/products_by_type/brake_bleeders/maxpro_brake_bleeder.htm

I have used this company's bleeder for years and really like it. Although, I have not had any experience bleeding a Ranger clutch. I know you can buy the V-12 tool and kit on ebay for about 69.00.

 

[197044RT]

Got it.

After spending some time in the garage last night, the procedure I was successful with was to disconnect the master cyl from the slave at the "quick" disconnect line and bleed the master by itself first. I then hooked it back up and bled the slave through it's bleeder. It still took me a while, I had to disconnect and bleed the master a few times to get all the air.

What a pain in the ****.

 

[goodfellow]

Got it.

After spending some time in the garage last night, the procedure I was successful with was to disconnect the master cyl from the slave at the "quick" disconnect line and bleed the master by itself first. I then hooked it back up and bled the slave through it's bleeder. It still took me a while, I had to disconnect and bleed the master a few times to get all the air.

What a pain in the ****.

Did you have to loosen the master and change the angle on it as well?

 

[197044RT]

No, I did not have to change the angle of the master. If the the disconnect procedure did not work, that was the next step.

I'm glad it worked because there is not much room to manipulate that cylinder under there.

I can't explain why bleeding it through both while connected didn't work, other than maybe the quick connect valve will not let air through?

All I know is the clutch will now release!!