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Clutched drill press chuck?

phox

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Sep 14, 2011
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8
Looking for a unicorn within a set of parameters, or some equivalent alternative:

The end goal is to have an adjustable slip clutch on a drill press, like in most cordless drills, or anything else that will allow me to repeatedly use a drill press and limit the drive torque very vaguely accurately—I'm not trying to hit a torque spec so like 20% tolerance most of the time would be great. I moved not long ago and didn't keep my cheapo drill press so I'm open to specific drill presses to accomplish this goal (although a more generic solution like a keyless chuck with a shank on the far end is preferable).
 
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dr_clyde

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Jan 7, 2009
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Holland, MI
What is the end goal here? A clutch on a cordless drill is typically either for driving screws a certain depth or to save your wrist.

Not sure what the application would be on a drill press.
 

tool_scrounge

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Jul 20, 2010
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Southern California
I would use the previously mentioned tap head.

Alternatively, Use a 3 phase motor with a VFD. Then program the display to show the drive current as a close proxy for torque so you can monitor it. Or lower the VFD max current to effectively set a max torque value where it shuts off.
 
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phox

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Sep 14, 2011
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Alternatively, Use a 3 phase motor with a VFD. Then program the display to show the drive current as a close proxy for torque so you can monitor it. Or lower the VFD max current to effectively set a max torque value where it shuts off.
I think Milwaukee already piloted e-Clutch and even with a lightweight ECM instead of a big induction blob on a drill press it's prone to massive overshoot :) But interesting as I hadn't thought of this option at all as part of this project!
 
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phox

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Sep 14, 2011
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Sounds like you need a power tapping head. Use the drill bit set up shown on the left or right.
1676522065606.png
That's more or less the idea, but with a 3-jaw instead of collets (both more work to switch around and I might not even have them for some arbitrary shank size). Also not sure, looks like you have to stick your own chuck-able shank in its backside but that's nbd. I also don't need the fancy reversing function and I'd obviously be paying a ton of money for that feature, but nonetheless pretty close to the "right" solution.
 
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phox

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Sep 14, 2011
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Rip apart a old hand drill and convert, would love to see this
Sadly the clutches are integrated into the drill not the chuck, so basically I'd be poaching just the clutch and putting stuff on the input/output interfaces.
 
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phox

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Sep 14, 2011
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Understood
you could still pull the whole mech out
At some point it's simpler to build a drill press around a nice cordless drill that someone busted the battery interface on ;D I've definitely thought about using one of those cheesy hand-drill-in-a-jig drill presses, and I do have a Milescraft drill guide (with chuck + hex input shank) so I can often use that, but the mechanics of a proper press are definitely worth me looking for a "normal" solution (e.g. transplanting the whole clutch mech!)...
 
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phox

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Sep 14, 2011
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What's your budget
What's your budget
Probably... $200 or something for the feature itself. Honestly hopefully less because that's way more than a cordless drill (kit with battery etc) with the same functionality, but it's important enough that I'll pay at least the price of a decent drill. Also notably I moved and don't have a drill press right now, so if picking the right drill press gets me the feature or gets me closer that's a viable option...
 

whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
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doo dah, kansas, usa
so, this isn't to drive a tap? why is everybody so cryptic in their request for help today? "I need a thing, but I can't tell you anything about what it does." Just tell us what you are trying to accomplish already!

You can make a clutch assembly that works like that in a drill with a couple of round disks, some ball bearings, and a spring. How accurate it is and how well it works depends on your set of skills or how much you want to spend.
 

jbtvt

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Apr 4, 2015
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(although a more generic solution like a keyless chuck with a shank on the far end is preferable).
You'd still need a way to keep the outside of the housing from spinning. Cheapest way that might work is to cut the motor shaft off an old drill and chuck it up, or chuck up a drill bit extension if you have to reach down into anything to grab a shaft. You could hold the transmission body manually with the drill's handle, after shaving it down or shimming it out to grip. Older drills had a ball bearing and spring mechanism that acted as the clutch, this wouldn't work on newer electronic clutch
 

Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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Cave Creek Az
The induction motor in most drill presses is fairly limited in torque and will generally stall at the same torque every time...
 
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