Cman ratchet detent ball trouble

[5ubtle]

Hi all,

I have two CM 1/4" drive quick release ratchets from the 1990s (PN 43185). They work fine for my use (home mechanic) with the exception being that the detent ball no longer holds a socket on. I don't really want to spend $20+ for a rebuild kit, nor do I want to trade them in on current product at Sears. I am considering disassembling the hub (I don't know what else to call it. The piece that integrates the wheel, 1/4" drive square, and push button). If I can get the hub apart, maybe I can fix something to make the detent work correctly again.

Anyone have any insight concerning the inside of this hub? What's in there. How was it assembled? Pictures from your hub autopsy would be great.

Thanks,

 

[ptgarcia]

Perhaps the cavity the ball presses into is full of gunk, not allowing it to move freely? I would first try cleaning all the grease and grime out of it then check the function. I don't think the ball and spring are removable, so if cleaning doesn't work a rebuild kit may be the only option.

 

[jakemac]

To begin, that part isn't built to be able to take it apart.

Some members have drilled out the detent ball, to a close tolerance. Then replaced the parts inside. To finish, you will need to first make a crimping tool that will shrink the top of the hole just enough to retain the ball at just the right hight to hold the socket. It would look similar to a nail set. IMO, it isn't worth the trouble.

There are three likely reasons why the ball isn't holding the socket.

1) The ball is worn down. (Unlikely)
2) The spring is broken or compressed.
3) The mechanism is gummed up with grit or old grease/oil (Most likely)

In the case of #3, flush the mechanism with something like PB Blaster or some other spray penetrating oil repeatedly until the grit is out. Work both the ball and the release button as you go to remove the grit.

EDIT : ptgarcia beat me to it.

 

[jsmeece]

I am going to say this before someone else does. "throw it in the trash and buy a Snap-On ratchet."

Just kidding, but you will get a lot of guys on here tell you just that.

Anyway, I have two 1/4 drive Craftsman ratchets from the late 1980s to early 1990s. Both of them had a similar problem, the balls were rusty and would not move. So I got a small nail and a can of brake cleaner and sprayed the ball areas and then used the nail to press on the balls until they freed up. Once the balls were free, just keep working cleaner under the balls.
Attached a wire brush to my electric drill and went to work on cleaning the balls of rust, little zap with the drill and the ball moves, another zap and so on, in about ten zap of the wire brush, all of the rust was go and I could push the ball in by hand. Placed the ratchets in transmission fluid for a soaking over night, took out and wiped off.

I did not break the springs when I was cleaning them either, the spring seem pretty stiff, so I really do not think you would brake the spring underneath the ball bearing by just cleaning them, good luck.

 

[uncwstudent]

Actually, a lot of Sears will actually replace these under warranty with rebuilt ratchets that are generally made in the USA. It might be looking at seeing if you can do this at your local Sears (if it even exists anymore).

 

[jsmeece]

If you want to go that route, if kits are even available, my Sears will rebuild your ratchet for you or give you the kit and you can do it yourself if they do not have the time. All you have to do is go to the tool department during a weekday (these guys never seem to work on the weekends) ask to see the guy who rebuilds the ratchets and ask him to rebuild your or ask for a kit. But I had to take 1/2 drive ratchet in to him to look at, he would not give me a kit otherwise. Kit cost me 1 penny. that was several years ago, but last time I was in Sears, this past Saturday, I saw that same guy, so I know he is still there rebuilding ratchets.

 

[ganymede]

From my experience if the ratchet is cleaned and still won't hold a socket then the issue is a small alloy post inside the drive lug. It is spring loaded and bears against the detent ball.
There is a small wedge in the post and when you press the button on top of the ratchet the post moves down and the detent ball moves into the wedge, allowing the socket to be removed.
From years of use or some one putting on and removing sockets without pushing the button the detent ball can batter a depression in the pin and sit in it instead of holding the socket.
If that's the case it's time for a new gear .

 

[5ubtle]

Thanks to all those who gave me some guidance. I tried to flush the mechanism with WD40, but it didn't get any better.

I drilled out the end of the 1/4" square drive. I found the end to be easily drilled until I tried to go bigger than 7/64". I believe that the original mechanism cavity was 7/64". After drilling, the small bit of spring fell out. My drilling may have damaged it more, but I believe that this spring was damaged before (causing my trouble with the detent ball).

I pressed the release button out. It was rather tight, and the small stem portion of the button is buckled due to pressing. I am disappointed that there was no large spring up under the head of the release button. Instead, this small spring sat inside the 7/64" cavity at the bottom of the button stem. The detent ball seems to be completely captive. It cannot fall into the center bore even with the mechanism removed.

I was in the process of building new guts for it when I found some reasonably priced rebuild kits on ebay ($5 each). I found that a #4-40 screw fits nicely into the bore. I made a release button out of 1/4" rod and threaded it for #4-40. I put a spring under the release button. About all that I had left to do was to cut the relief into the screw to allow the detent ball to fall into.

 

[lbhsbz]

Since the day I discovered that other ratchets existed, I never picked up up another one of those pieces of **** on purpose.

Seriously, throw it in the trash. $8 at Harbor freight will buy you a 1/4" drive swivel head ratchet that is considerably better than a raised panel craftsman ratchet.

 

[Renchi]

Since the day I discovered that other ratchets existed, I never picked up up another one of those pieces of **** on purpose.

Seriously, throw it in the trash. $8 at Harbor freight will buy you a 1/4" drive swivel head ratchet that is considerably better than a raised panel craftsman ratchet.