Laying the first and only course of CMU’s in a few days on a large shed. Next to the man door is the remainder of that wall, 38 inches in length.. using the 8x6x16 cmu’s. How would you all handle that? 2 full length blocks and a very short one? if thats the case it would be a 6 inch log block. is that too short ? what is the best or most sound solution?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
cmu length
- Thread starter mnpeterg
- Start date
Are you framing a door opening that will go down to the concrete floor ? You by to take that into account along with the size of the pre-hung door frame.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You can't move the door a bit?
strutaeng
Well-known member
Spacings should be a multiple of 16" ideally...
If not, two full blocks at the ends and the smaller filler piece in between looks better than the little piece at the end.
If not, two full blocks at the ends and the smaller filler piece in between looks better than the little piece at the end.
Hilltopmasonry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2015
- Messages
- 2,168
For the record a 16” long CMU is only 15 1/2 “ long.
As mentioned your choice is a really small piece or sometimes what we would do is put a half block and a 3/4 block instead on a tiny piece
As mentioned your choice is a really small piece or sometimes what we would do is put a half block and a 3/4 block instead on a tiny piece
You are going to have to cut one block. I'd use a full, half and one with an open end, if the supplier has one. Just because it is easy to cut an open end to the exact size you need. Otherwise it gets more difficult to cut that close to a web.
WNYflyer
Well-known member
Typical ASTM C90 nominal 8x6x16 CMU stretcher block is really 7 5/8" x 5 5/8" x 15 5/8" and typically assumed 3/8" mortar joints such that vertical and horizontal coursing for layouts is in increments of 8". Don't know what type of door/jams/door frame you are using but the rough openings for CMU are typically located and sized in increments of 8" to minimize the cutting of block/CMU. Door rough openings should be shifted accordingly if possible.
These guys gave you some good advice and probably what I would do as well. Shift the door if possible and/or cut a block to make it fit "right."
Another question, does the concrete have rebar in it to pin the blocks to the slab for core filling ? If it were mine in that short section, I would probably pin every block from the corner to the door and core them with the J-bolts for the sill.
Honestly, I'd probably pin/core fill way more than needed as peace of mind . . . to me. I mean really in the grand scheme, 1 course of block. How many can you fill with and extra $20 spent on bagged quikrete ?
Another question, does the concrete have rebar in it to pin the blocks to the slab for core filling ? If it were mine in that short section, I would probably pin every block from the corner to the door and core them with the J-bolts for the sill.
Honestly, I'd probably pin/core fill way more than needed as peace of mind . . . to me. I mean really in the grand scheme, 1 course of block. How many can you fill with and extra $20 spent on bagged quikrete ?
rayra
Well-known member
I'd rather cut two to partial longer lengths, than have one tiny / narrow piece. Really depends on a lot of things, visual appearance, where the joints wall, what if any stresses are involved. Lot of variables, totally situation dependent.