Hi all, I am hoping that there may be a brick layer or two on this sight. I have added on a lean to addition to my CMU building, I would like to cut a man door opening into the wall of the CMU building for access between the main garage and the lean to. The wall is bearing, the roof sits onto of this wall. What is the correct way to accomplish this?
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CMU wall
- Thread starter jerryd68
- Start date
Automatic Slim
Well-known member
Do not take my advice......
I would think you could use a sill plate above the door frame to transfer the weight. 1/4 steel plate or such to redistribute the roof weight. First support the weight of course and probably wouldn't hurt to double up on the door frame and not skimp on sill plate.
Make the door small (32") just in case.
I would think you could use a sill plate above the door frame to transfer the weight. 1/4 steel plate or such to redistribute the roof weight. First support the weight of course and probably wouldn't hurt to double up on the door frame and not skimp on sill plate.
Make the door small (32") just in case.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Build a temporary wall out of 2x's to support the rafters/trusses, cut a hole in the wall and frame it back in with a header.
That was what I had been thinking about, I though I would saw cut the horizontal morter joint out to about 6 or 8 inches beyond what my opening will be, and then insert a 3 x 3 angle iron lintel, and then do my vertical cuts, afterward I will drill holes in the blocks on both sides and the top and fill them with grout.
Pig In A Poke
Well-known member
I don't intend to come across as a smart A$$, but hire a Mason. The plan you have is not bad, but is lacking a little information. Depending if the block is half bond or stacked, 4" 6" 8" 10" 12" on width or two, the condition of the wall above, the opening width and type. I have been a Mason for 15 years, and I am a son of a Mason, most of the time we are not all that expensive, depending on all those things mentioned, as well as location other regional factors, I could/should be able to do that in a day probably for 300-500$
If you provide the information listed above and insist on doing it yourself I would be happy to provide any helpful information that you may need.
Good luck
If you provide the information listed above and insist on doing it yourself I would be happy to provide any helpful information that you may need.
Good luck
Hey there Pig In a Poke, I had thought about doing it myself because most of the Mason's that I have contacting in our area are very busy, the block is 8" wide and half bond. the wall is in fairly good shape. I would appreciate any advice that you can give, even if I end up going the mason route. Thank you
The first thing I would do is call around a few local block producers/masonry suppliers and see if pre-cast concrete lintels are available in your area. They're getting harder to find in some regions, but if you can get them, it will be you're easiest option. You'll just need to support the wood rafters/trusses temporarily off of the concrete floor. Allow at least 4" of bearing on each side for the lintel, more won't hurt.........
You only need the lintel over the door opening, plus bearing on each side. The length of wall is unimportant. This is what they look like, and generally start at 40" long, and can go up to 144" in 8-16" increments........
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...NqcUYGjBYum8ASHh4G4Bg&ved=0CDYQ9QEwAA&dur=327
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...NqcUYGjBYum8ASHh4G4Bg&ved=0CDYQ9QEwAA&dur=327
The lintels are 8" tall (modular with room for 3/8" joint) so you'll need more than a 1/2 course to fit it in if I'm understanding correctly.
Once you prop the roof structure up, you can saw and remove the door opening first, along with the pockets for the lintel, and then set the lintel last. Let it set overnight at least, and remove your temp wood supports. Unless your roof has a heavy slate shingle or the like, there's likely very little weight above the opening........
Once you prop the roof structure up, you can saw and remove the door opening first, along with the pockets for the lintel, and then set the lintel last. Let it set overnight at least, and remove your temp wood supports. Unless your roof has a heavy slate shingle or the like, there's likely very little weight above the opening........
Joe, what I meant was the pockets, 1/2 block the other direction, so I wont need to worry about the block above the cut? As long as the roof is supported? I can just cut and remove it and then install the lintle with a 3/8" morter joint? Will I need to grout the block on either side of the cut or will I be okay to simply wrap the opening with a steel or wooden frame?
How many courses are above the door? That really depends on the the approach. If it's only one or two, you could probably prop the one unsupported block or two from one side. No need to grout anything in, unless you remove something that's already grouted........
I could tell you how I've done it successfully in the past, but as a pro, I simply can't on the web with that much weight above the door, it would be irresponsible on my part. You may want to re-consider getting a professional involved..............
I understand your point, I think I will attempt it with and angle iron lintle above it. I have done a lot of things in the past like this being an industrial maintenance man for all of my career. I just really wanted suggestions, I can see possibly bolting a peice of channel or other heavy gauge stuctural iron above it to temp. carry the weight while I remove the block for the doorway and install the lintel.
Pig In A Poke
Well-known member
If you do this yourself, go buy two 3x5x5/16 steel lintels at least 1'4" longer than the opening is wide, drill 1/2" holes two of them on each vertical side about 18" either side of center. Cut a hole in one side of the wall deep enough to insert the horizontal leg of the iron into and a couple of inches longer then the lintel, the hole should be 1"-1 1/2" higher than the frame you are going to use. Insert the iron and move to the other side of wall and repeat, then cut both jambs and remove block. You will need to drill through the wall and bolt the two irons to one another, this is not how I would do this, but this is the safest way for a non-mason to accomplish this, it will be ugly but it will work.
On a side note I have not had a friend or customer to date who after attempting such a task who would do it again. I have torn down new stone walls, fireplaces, patios, and even a mailbox once of people who tried it themselves first. Not to sound arrogant, I would not try to frame a house, paint a car, or trouble shoot computers without consulting a pro first.
On a side note I have not had a friend or customer to date who after attempting such a task who would do it again. I have torn down new stone walls, fireplaces, patios, and even a mailbox once of people who tried it themselves first. Not to sound arrogant, I would not try to frame a house, paint a car, or trouble shoot computers without consulting a pro first.
RedBKM
Well-known member
The steel lintel method described by PigInAPoke is a solid method. Make sure to get the correct size angle so the pieces meet in the middle. You can weld that joint together where access permits.
Be sure to triple check your cut locations. If you follow a vertical joint you will have a hole about 40-41 inches wide. You may have to plane down your framing material to allow a prehung door to fit. If you follow a horizontal joint it will be a few inches to tall but you can build it up with 2x8s and that will add even more strength under the steel lintels.
Find a professional for the cutting. The rental fee for the saw is going to be $150+ and they are extremely difficult to use.
Be sure to triple check your cut locations. If you follow a vertical joint you will have a hole about 40-41 inches wide. You may have to plane down your framing material to allow a prehung door to fit. If you follow a horizontal joint it will be a few inches to tall but you can build it up with 2x8s and that will add even more strength under the steel lintels.
Find a professional for the cutting. The rental fee for the saw is going to be $150+ and they are extremely difficult to use.
That is the methood that I have decided to go with, I am going to cut a horizontal cut in a morter joint and then insert 4" lintels on either side of the wall with 8" or so of bearing on the block that is remaining, and then I will bolt them together though the wall with 1/2" all tread. Then I will make my vertical cuts and remove the block for the opening. I will then build a jam out of two peices of 4" angle and weld the whole thing together.