CO and Smoke Detectors

[sparky67]

Well I came home today to hear my CO detectors beeping their end of life warning. So I started looking into replacing them when I realized that I should probably replace the smoke detectors as well. I have a few related questions maybe you guys can help with.

1. Wired, Wireless, or independent. Its a small house, 24x30 with a finished attic and a basement. I will probably hear any alarm by itself if they aren't connected via wire or wireless. Except if there was one in the garage since that is only connected by the breezeway. I have no problem running a wire and I can do it fairly easily if there was a clear advantage over the wireless. How good is the battery life on wireless units? Is the wireless link good or can it be easily disrupted by all the EMI sources in the house.

2. Are there heat detectors available wired or wireless? My search only turned up ones available for alarm systems which wouldn't work for me. The current smoke detector in my basement is always going off whenever I work down there. I'd like to use a heat detector there as well as the garage.

3. Combined or separate CO and Smoke? I think I will stick with separate because I am reading the CO detectors should be on the wall at head level and I would like one in the garage for the times I run the kerosene heater. Defiantly wouldn't want that one wired into the house since it will probably end up with a few false triggers.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

 

[87jeepwrangler]

There's a few different types of (standalone and wired) smoke alarms, however, I know nothing about wireless units. The types are: Photoelectric, ionization and temperature. Each have their place.

Photo and ion are never supposed to be in unfinished attic spaces or garages. The dust and other particles up there can trigger false alarms. Use a temperature sensors in your garage or work shop. None in unfinished attic.

It is recommended that you have at least one combo (photo and ion) combo sensors somewhere since each is better at detecting certain types of fires.

Personally, I'd run a wired setup if you can, throw at least one combo ion/photo somewhere, and the carbon monoxide can really be either combo or standalone. If there's enough enough carbon monoxide in your house, it will trip even if it's at the ceiling.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd buy seperate units and the wireless/battery units work just fine if the batteries are changed properly. It's generally recommended that you change the batteries twice a year, usually during the time change.

The nice thing about having a system wired together (if done properly) if one detector trips, it shoud alert the entire system. Yet, if you have an existing home, it might be a large task to get them all wired in. During new construction or a serious remodel is the easiest time to put this type of system in.

As far as CO detectors go,Kiddie/Nighthawk makes a plug in unit that has a battery back up and a digital display.

 

[Higgins]

There is a new type of smoke detectors on the market that have a battery life of 10 yrs. Once the battery is dead, you replace the unit! No longer do you have to change the battery yearly.............

AL

 

[rlitman]

There is a new type of smoke detectors on the market that have a battery life of 10 yrs. Once the battery is dead, you replace the unit! No longer do you have to change the battery yearly.............

AL

Or you can buy the 10 year lithium 9V battery, and put it in any regular detector that takes a 9V battery. Or 10 year lithium AA for other detectors. Note though that every CO detector I've seen expires 7 years from the date you install the batteries. I'm not sure 10 years is reasonable to expect, but you'd probably get most of that at least, assuming they don't sit on the store shelf for years (which they do).

Back to what detector to buy.
I have several.

I have a combined ionization smoke/CO detector just outside my boiler room in the basement.

On the first floor, I have a photoelectric smoke detector. Photoelectric is more likely to pick up the bigger smoke particles found in smoldering couch cushions, and less likely to be false tripped by cooking or fireplace smoke (both potential issues on my first floor).

On the second floor (where the bedrooms are), I have an ionization detector with a spotlight at the top of my stairs, and a dedicated CO detector with a digital display that shows CO PPM, even when CO levels are below the alarm threshold.

In my detached garage, I have a CO/combustible gas detector with digital display.

I have a generator outside, on the side of the garage facing away from the house, and since it runs under an awning, behind a fence, I have a standard CO detector next to it. I have tested my other CO detectors out there. With the generator running in still air, without my exhaust chimney to route the exhaust above the awning, I've seen the detectors show as much as 40ppm, although it would take hours of exposure to that before they start beeping.

 

[nehog]

Or you can buy the 10 year lithium 9V battery, ...

I tried doing that and the results were not as expected. In fact the battery had a disclaimer not to use in smoke detectors (not that I listened to that!) and in the end I got about a year or so out of those 10 year (expensive) batteries.

 

[netbrad]

I had to replace all of mine earlier this year and I got these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A6249Q/

My house previously had BRK detectors so I also had to get 6 wiring adapters. If your house isn't wired Kidde also make some battery operated detectors that are linked wirelessly so if one goes off they all go off.