Coat hangers for subfeed?
- Thread starter madosta
- Start date
pattenp
Well-known member
I don't even want to know why you're asking that. 
rlitman
Well-known member
I don't even want to know why you're asking that.
I agree. But from a purely academic perspective, I would think that the number is much less than that.
To start with, the steel wire in coat hangers is usually 14 or 15 gauge. Then, keep in mind that steel has a much higher resistance than copper, so it will heat much more under the same current load.
bob_s2
Well-known member
So in theory you're going to need to run more than one coat hanger. Try 6 or 7 of them together.
A bit of electrical tape around them for safety, of course. Always think safety first! And take pictures for the WFT/Darwin awards thread. Looks like you're gonna qualify!
Seriously I am joking - do not do this. What are you doing with a coat hanger and electrical anyway? I just gotta know.....
A bit of electrical tape around them for safety, of course. Always think safety first! And take pictures for the WFT/Darwin awards thread. Looks like you're gonna qualify!
Seriously I am joking - do not do this. What are you doing with a coat hanger and electrical anyway? I just gotta know.....
ishiboo
Well-known member
It's cheaper to pick up some steel aircraft cable and insert it into some aquarium tubing.
Be sure to use no-ox on the connections!
Be sure to use no-ox on the connections!
A set of jumper cables would be easier to connect.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Wow! A coat hanger? Never heard of that one before! Please don't burn anyone's house down this Christmas! What are u using it for? Why not just get some real wire?
I don't even want to know why you're asking that.
Falcon67
Well-known member
The ones from the cleaners are 12 gage CAWH (cheap *** wire hanger). The pant ones come with a short length of cardboard insulation. They are rated for overhead and behind the stove where you can't reach use. 8 to 16 penny nail would be the proper termination.
jvitez
Well-known member
383 240z
Well-known member
Not sure what application on CAWH is worse
Spudland_Dave
Well-known member
Can you run CAWH in Conduit? I'm gonna take a wild guess and say EMT is out, but it should be fine in ENT?
Anybody have a fill chart for CAWH?
Anybody have a fill chart for CAWH?
ishiboo
Well-known member
Depends if it's a wet area or not. CAWH is not allowed underground.
FCPFH is the best if you have to go underground. (Flattened Copper Pipe With a ******* Hammer... actually makes a decent bus bar!)
nehog
Well-known member
Well, I have used coat hanger wire for an ammeter shunt in the past! It worked surprisingly well, considering (yes, it was for a quick and dirty, temporary job, running 24 V DC.)
Milton Shaw
Well-known member
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- Feb 11, 2011
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I would suggest looking for the ones that are already fabric coated for insulation then you could run in EMT. The steel ones actually carry current a lot better than the all plastic ones. They tend to not work at voltages below what Van de Graft static generators provide.
rlitman
Well-known member
Good point. What about the wooden ones?
So far, I haven't had much luck, OR SUPPORT from this forum, for that matter.
Anyways, I was contemplating how to go about this:
Now, don't make fun of the axcess hanger guys. It's from Kohls.
I'm currently in the middle of testing this:
I'll let you know how my trials go.
Anyways, I was contemplating how to go about this:
Now, don't make fun of the axcess hanger guys. It's from Kohls.
I'm currently in the middle of testing this:
I'll let you know how my trials go.
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ishiboo
Well-known member
You needed to first specify you would be using Made in USA coat-hangers, like the Snap-On wire hanger for $471.32. You probably would have won an award from some members.
Steve.S
Well-known member
I hate to hijack, but this seems like an appropriate thread for it!
Wondering if I can run #10 THHN/THWN to my compressor in the same PVC conduit that I use for my air lines, if I seal up the spots where they enter/exit using RTV? If so, can I also pull CAT6 in the same tube? Future proofing, you know...
Wondering if I can run #10 THHN/THWN to my compressor in the same PVC conduit that I use for my air lines, if I seal up the spots where they enter/exit using RTV? If so, can I also pull CAT6 in the same tube? Future proofing, you know...
383 240z
Well-known member
Just wanted to let you guys know, this silly thread has been the best thing I've seen all day. Thanks for the laugh. Keith
Midnight_America
Well-known member
Absolutely No to both.
Zeke
Well-known member
Viper says no to Goose.
Alchymist
Well-known member
Don't know, but I did use two strands of a barb wire fence to carry 240 volt service 3/8 of a mile before a 15 amp load caused too much voltage drop.
Shocker
Well-known member
I don't understand why this is being done. Makes no sense to me for a real installation.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Okay, what was the length and how much resistance did it have ?
have to structurally support the RTV seal with Duct tape, preferably camo colored.
Spudland_Dave
Well-known member
Same here...I was killing time surfin on my smartphone earlier and my wife had to ask me what was so funny.. LOL
Was that after you traded in some plastic hangers? My SO dealer was higher then that last time I checked. Nevermind the fact the CAFH I've seen at Lowes and Sears only cost 17.98 and works excellent even tho its Import CAFH.
My apologies if I took it the wrong way...You've always been a great wealth of info here, so when I saw this topic I figured you had come across some whacky install or was just a plain ol lets see where this goes type post.
Steve.S
Well-known member
Dang....I figured the RTV would sink that idea.
Spam16V, the duct tape might just work. Is there a minimum thread count that I should look for? Don't want it to blow out and lose any packets!
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Dang....I figured the RTV would sink that idea.
No minimum thread count, but the speed limit is 80 MPH. Not much bandwidth...
Falcon67
Well-known member
Yes, but 1Gig Ethernet full duplex requires at least 25 CFM @ 90 PSI, so unless you have a big compressor you'll only get 10 or maybe 100Meg throughput.
383 240z
Well-known member
Falcon67
Well-known member
That's both ways. Air runs are half duplex, so going back is kinda tough.
383 240z
Well-known member
Wonder if I polished the inside of the airlines? Anybody know how to build a set-up that will redirect the air currents into a laminar flow pattern? That way I could pulse the air in a digital manner. Oh wait I know bi-directional multi pressure air currents for CAN data lines!!!!!
tdkkart
Well-known member
And the load was someone or something touching the barb wire??
nehog
Well-known member
About 4 inches, 20 amps, and a sensitive meter.
rlitman
Well-known member
Relax. That's what the ethernet is there for. It will catch any packets that escape, and maybe even a token ring or two.
But back to the OP: as I said, steel is a pretty lousy conductor. Aluminum however is a fairly good one. You should consider using an aluminum screen door for your purposes, and insulate it with that Flex Seal stuff.
SuitorsGarage
Well-known member
This thread just reminded me of a project that I need to get done.
I want a 3-way switch between the house and the garage for outside lights. Now that the ground is frozen and snow covered I am not about to dig a trench so I was thinking that I already have a trench for a sewer pipe and that could act as a conduit also. I already made a materials list.
1. The neighbor's new extension cord (mine are all 2 prong).
2. Some Leak-Ender 2000 (That stuff is supposed to be awesome!).
3. My BIL's shop vac (to aid in pulling the extension cord thru).
4. Some duct tape (unless somebody knows a better way to attach extension cord to the toilet bowl so the lid still closes properly).
5. The 3-way switches I saw at the dump the other day (Hope they are still there).
6. Electrical tape (I'm not such a hack that I would use duct tape on the splices).
7. Everything else I should have or can pillage from other abandoned projects.
I was thinking that I can hook up my BIL's shop vac to the toilet in the garage then go inside the house and try flushing the cord down the house toilet. If all goes well then I will need to bring the torches into the cellar and cut a hole in the cast iron sewer drain and try to hook the cord with clothes hanger (That's what reminded me about this project) and pull it out the hole. Seal it up with some leak-ender 2000. After that it is all standard electrical work like attaching the cord to the joists with nails bent over, Notching the faceplates to sneak the cord into the switches, and mounting the gooseneck desk lamp on the side of the building.
I plan on fitting this project in after we open presents and before lunch on christmas day although I think it will only take me less than an hour start to finish. I"ll keep you posted and try to take polaroids of the process and have them scanned.
I want a 3-way switch between the house and the garage for outside lights. Now that the ground is frozen and snow covered I am not about to dig a trench so I was thinking that I already have a trench for a sewer pipe and that could act as a conduit also. I already made a materials list.
1. The neighbor's new extension cord (mine are all 2 prong).
2. Some Leak-Ender 2000 (That stuff is supposed to be awesome!).
3. My BIL's shop vac (to aid in pulling the extension cord thru).
4. Some duct tape (unless somebody knows a better way to attach extension cord to the toilet bowl so the lid still closes properly).
5. The 3-way switches I saw at the dump the other day (Hope they are still there).
6. Electrical tape (I'm not such a hack that I would use duct tape on the splices).
7. Everything else I should have or can pillage from other abandoned projects.
I was thinking that I can hook up my BIL's shop vac to the toilet in the garage then go inside the house and try flushing the cord down the house toilet. If all goes well then I will need to bring the torches into the cellar and cut a hole in the cast iron sewer drain and try to hook the cord with clothes hanger (That's what reminded me about this project) and pull it out the hole. Seal it up with some leak-ender 2000. After that it is all standard electrical work like attaching the cord to the joists with nails bent over, Notching the faceplates to sneak the cord into the switches, and mounting the gooseneck desk lamp on the side of the building.
I plan on fitting this project in after we open presents and before lunch on christmas day although I think it will only take me less than an hour start to finish. I"ll keep you posted and try to take polaroids of the process and have them scanned.
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