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Coating Conundrum

topcok88

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The time has seeming come to get my garage in order and this is simply a loose guide for anyone considering applying a floor coating to their garage. I would call this a culmination of lessons learned and then guidance on what I would do if I could go back and not repeat the same mistakes. So I have an approximate 24'x24' garage (576sq ft) and after having been distracted for more years than I care to discuss, the decision was made that I really did need to get the place in order. In other threads you will see that my garage has gone from housing my former Corvette, welders, and lawn mower to presently storing miscelanous items and most importantly my daily drivers. My wife and I both appreciate parking in the garage and I do not perform metal work in my attached garage anymore. My hand tools and woodworking equipment have found a new home in my basement due to it being climate controlled, and do not anticipate that changing until I either build an addition on the back of my current garage or we purchase a new house with shop and move.

So this is what I am starting with. As you can see we have the typically central Virginia red mud stains, a few cracks, and drywall I hadn't got around to finishing. Nothing terrible but bad enough for me take action.

Now here is my first lessons learned of this situation. Prior to deciding what coating you will be applying and what preparation measures to take, thoroughly clean your floor. Due to the condition of the floor I was convinced I had unsealed concrete with a rough finish. The stains, the way water would soak into the concrete around the cars, and how gritty it felt when walked on.

I chose to start with degreasing. I picked up some NorthStart brand Industrial Degreaser and scrubbed... And scrubbed... Wetting the floor, squeegee out after scrubbing, and rewetting the floor... Over and over and over again. And it improved as many of the oil marks disappeared but it really showed how abused the concrete was. I found bright colored paint stains that neither my wife or I knew where there. I am talking about bright white and even red stains that only appeared after scrubbing the life out of the concrete. The other thing that was of a huge concern was how the high traffic areas would soak in water but the perimeter and low traffic areas beaded water up. The texture got smooth and thats when I saw the pattern... Power troweled. The pad had been power troweled and sealed based on what I had found, so this meant I had to do an entirely different preparation for the coating than planned.

But as you can see the surface is much cleaner, much more defined, although it does show how stained some areas really are. After cleaning the floor as best as I could by hand I made the decision to pull the base boards up and I am very glad I did. Which leads me to my second lessons learned. When going through all the work of cleaning a space out, I would consider it best practice to do all those things the would otherwise be a hinderance later. And sealing the base board to floor area is one of those things. It also showed that I had some minor ant problems and I will seal this area prior to putting my baseboard back up (after the coating is applied).
 
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topcok88

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Re: Coating Condundrum

And that is when I decided to just do all the interior finishes. I started by laying down plastic to protect the floor and prevent more work in the end.

Patched drywall I have been meaning to patch. Remember – you can't sand low spots out and it typically takes multiple thin coats. Much better than one heavy coat – it takes too long to dry and creating a giant speed bump in the middle of a wall is not going to help sanding it smooth.

I then painted the ceiling with Valspar HydroChroma Reserve Interior Satin in the color Winter Dawn. It took two coats (approximately 4 gallons) using ½” nap roller and is actually the same paint I used on my interior house ceilings. We love the additional reflection inside the house, how easy it is to clean (spaghetti sauce splatter above the oven wipes right up), and appearance with the texture. Following the ceiling I applied three coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye 2 Multi-Purpose Primer Sealer High Hiding Formula. Yes it took three coats and there may be a better primer available but I will say it was easy to sand smooth prior to painting and did a good job covering the old paint, new drywall compound, and provided what I consider an excellent base for the paint.
 
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topcok88

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Re: Coating Condundrum

I then applied two coats of Valspar HydroChroma Reserve Interior Satin in the color Hot Stone. It also took two coats (approximately 4 gallons) using 3/8” nap roller and is also the same paint I have in the main living areas of my home.

First Coat

Second Coat

And that brought me into the next phase. Over the few days it took to prepare the ceilings and walls I decided to grind the floor. After calling local rental places and weighing the options, I decided to purchase a 7” hand grinder and grind the floors by hand. I got my tools together and tackled the project head on, not knowing how it would go. For those of have followed my drainage repair thread know that I actually used a 4” diamond grinder on my basement walls with a dust buddy prior to applying DryLok and had great success. The only difference is that this is a floor, with a larger grinder, and appearance matters more.

The Tools Required for (Pretty Much) Dust Free Operation

I use a grinder, diamond wheel, dust shroud, ShopVac with Filter Bag, FilterPal Filter Cover, and Web Filter. I actually only used two Filter Bags and never really had any free dust floating around, but I STILL used a N95 rated dust mask, safety glasses, and ear protection.

The Texture Goal

Overall Appearance

And after approximately seven hours I was left with this.
 
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topcok88

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Re: Coating Condundrum

As you can see the cracks blend in but still need to be fixed prior to applying any type of floor coating. For this I chose to use the Rust-Oleum Crack Repair that can be easily found at your big box store. I actually cut pieces of cardboard in about a 8”x8” square, put on a food scale and zeroed, and then used 2 grams of A and 4 grams of B. This worked extremely well as it was just enough to use up under 20 minutes and by breaking it into batches made it easier to mix and apply. In addition to crack repair I also applied five 2'x2' squares of 6 mil plastic with duct tape edges to the slab to check for moisture.

24 Hours No Moisture Present

48 Hours No Moisture Present

72 Hours No Moisture Present

I applied the crack filler after verifying I did not have any moisture issues.

96 Hours No Moisture Rainy Day

120 Hours No Moisture Rainy Day

So five moisture tests across 5 days with no moisture provides a high level of confidence that I do not have any moisture issues.
 
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topcok88

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Re: Coating Condundrum

Following the five day test and letting the epoxy cure for greater than 48 hours I ground the epoxy smooth as can be seen here. The cracks are still visible but I feel confident they are sealed and will provide a good base for the epoxy top coat.

IMG_0620 by Sean Lund, on Flickr

IMG_0621 by Sean Lund, on Flickr

And that is where I am now. I am waiting on the epoxy from the supplier, I still haven't purchased the roller head, or spiked shoes, or brush. But I am extremely pleased with how things have gone so far. I am still nervous about applying the coating, but I guess that is to be expected. I will keep everyone updated and I hope you can learn a little by what I chose to do.
 
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Shea

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Excellent thread! LOL....I had to laugh though when it quickly turned from floor coating to a garage wall and ceiling renovation thread. I've been there and done that! :beer:

Great job on the floor prep. With your attention to detail you shouldn't have any problems applying your coating. Most think it's the fun part of the job. What type of coating are you applying?
 
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topcok88

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Excellent thread! LOL....I had to laugh though when it quickly turned from floor coating to a garage wall and ceiling renovation thread. I've been there and done that! :beer:

Great job on the floor prep. With your attention to detail you shouldn't have any problems applying your coating. Most think it's the fun part of the job. What type of coating are you applying?

Shea,

Thank you and it is only my OCD and attention to detail causing me to work this much on a daily driver garage floor. I honestly do not know what the epoxy is and it is a large reason why I encourage the people who read this to thoroughly clean their concrete prior to deciding what coating system to use. My garage floor is being used as a test for a new epoxy based floor coating and I am hoping after encountering all of these issues so far that remainder will be easier. My original intention was to offer up my garage as a test mule for three reasons; 1) To be part of what I would consider a cool process and be able to provide feedback directly to a manufacture on a product. 2) To learn and gain the experience to give me confidence to apply additional epoxy floor coatings to my basement woodshop, mechanical area, and hangout room. 3) To provide real world data to others on this forum. I read many threads here discussing processes but at times sifting through all the data, developing a technique, and executing the process is exhausting. And if you read through my other threads you can immediately tell I have OCD, a relatively limitless budget to do things right, and take great pride in my work. In a perfect world I would be applying a tan floor covering, Tan/White/Black (50/25/25) flake to rejection, and a clear topcoat. But if this goes well you can expect to see my basement being done in the future.

And just for everyone to know I did solicit bids for preparation, epoxy, flake to rejection, and a clear topcoat. A 1/4" vinyl chip epoxy system (100% solids, chips broadcast to rejection 250#, 100% solids top coat, and urethane finish coat, and crack repair) came to be $2,850. I honestly didn't think that was bad and would pay that if I had some medical condition preventing me from performing the work myself. As I can assure you all, 7 hours grinding by hand was not easy. But the grinder, shroud, and disc only cost about $350 and I can use it in the future. Compared to the local rental house for a 10" Edco with dust collector being $585 a week, I could stomach a little manual labor.
 

rob_460

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Your project looks like a hell of a lot of work, but you will end up with a nice space and a sense of accomplishment.

The work you've done also reminded me how much I hate finishing and painting drywall and confirms that my choice to line the interior of the new shop with white steel is right for me! I'm currently drywalling in my basement and have no desire to do more in the garage.

Many here (including myself) will appreciate your willingness to take on a project which is initially outside your comfort zone, and learning something in the process.

Maybe I should post a build thread of my own later on once I have some more progress.
 

Armorpoxy

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You'll have a great sense of satisfaction when complete! Great job so far.
 

CrazyAirborne

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Curious in this as Im going to be doing a very similar thing (from the ceiling to the floors) soonish in my daily driver garage. Looking forward to the updates!
 
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topcok88

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Your project looks like a hell of a lot of work, but you will end up with a nice space and a sense of accomplishment.

The work you've done also reminded me how much I hate finishing and painting drywall and confirms that my choice to line the interior of the new shop with white steel is right for me! I'm currently drywalling in my basement and have no desire to do more in the garage.

Many here (including myself) will appreciate your willingness to take on a project which is initially outside your comfort zone, and learning something in the process.

Maybe I should post a build thread of my own later on once I have some more progress.

Thank you Rob. Yes it is work, although the drywall, priming, and painting isn't bad as I have done that type of work for years. The comfort zone for me ends when it comes to working with products with what I consider short working times. The epoxy product for the floor is to arrive next week and the anticipation keeps growing. If all goes well here I have about 1600 sq ft more to do (my basement) and I want to try flake to rejection to help hind imperfections and add an appreciable look.

good stuff

Thanks Legacy! You have some super nice products and would love to see some on my back concrete patio behind the house! Maybe next year.

You'll have a great sense of satisfaction when complete! Great job so far.

Thanks Armorpoxy! I'm already super pleased with where it has came so far. And neighbors have already been walking up the drive asking questions and one has gone as far to clean his garage out to do similar. So that felt good to give others some ambition to improve their garages.

Curious in this as Im going to be doing a very similar thing (from the ceiling to the floors) soonish in my daily driver garage. Looking forward to the updates!

Like I spoke of earlier in the post but maybe didn't elaborate enough. When doing a project it is best to work top down. The ceiling can be knocked out in one day if the temperature and humidity is right. The walls could be one or two days depending on how many obstructions need to be cut in. And the floor grinding and preparation is just hard work in a relatively short duration of time. I haven't had the opportunity to apply the coating yet, but I am sure it will be fine. And I see you are from Central Wisconsin, I spent about twenty years in Rusk County. Beautiful state and I miss the hunting. Good luck.
 
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topcok88

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So on Saturday the FedEx delivered the box containing the epoxy from the distributor. It was well packaged and as most deliveries I am always sure to take a picture of the outside of the box prior to opening in case there is damage that cannot be seen.
IMG_0640 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
Inside the box were four containers from Garage Flooring LLC that contained a water based epoxy simply labeled Part A and Part B. The one thing I had noticed, and this was not Justin's fault, was the lack of any detailed instructions. Of course I send a email with my concerns but being the weekend and this being a new product, it was not possible to get ahold of anyone until Monday. But with the incoming rain band from the hurricane and something more dangerous for me, my wife, I knew I had to finish this floor so she could resume parking inside the garage.
IMG_0641 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
The last preparation to perform prior to applying the Epoxy was to tape off my garage door. I chose to pull a string line across the rails and tape using the line to ensure it is perfectly straight. I wanted to stay well clear of the seal area and honestly seeing the slight difference in color/texture doesn't bother me at all. Remember that you must pull up the tape immediately following applying the coating to ensure it does not get stuck down with the epoxy paint.
IMG_0642 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
And here are the tools I used (minus the long roller handle not pictured).
IMG_0661 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
I chose to tape down plastic inside my house and paint the floor to the inside. Due to my geographical location if I were to paint to “outside” the bugs would ruin the floor in short order. Every time I turn my lights on at night the bugs swarm in and land everywhere!
IMG_0662 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
 
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topcok88

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The containers opened and ensuring they are mixed well prior to mixing in the bucket. About 3.5l of B and almost 7l with A. And I mixed this for 2 minutes using my drill and mixer, verifying I did not create bubbles,there was no streaking, and everything looks mixed well.
IMG_0665 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0666 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0668 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0669 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
After mixing I set my phone timer for 45 minutes and began cutting in the room. Cutting took approximately 10 minutes and I noticed by the time I was done the concrete really sucked in the epoxy!
IMG_0670 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
And then I rolled it out... Did I mention I was doing this all by myself? Well I was unable to get pictures of me in action but I will say I was rolling out of a paint tray using a roller. And I felt it wasn't going fast enough so I started pouring ribbons and rolling about 3' sections across the garage. This worked great and when I came to the house door I just rolled myself into the house. As the pictures show the concrete was eating up the epoxy and I ended up using every last drop.
IMG_0671 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0675 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
And here is what I was left with to clean up. Now here is a cool thing about this water based epoxy. The fumes aren't terrible and even my wife, who is sensitive to that stuff, agrees! So big win in that department. By the time I was done rolling the timer was down to about 30 seconds left. So it took about 35 minutes for me to roll and 45 minutes total by myself. Not too bad if I say so myself and WITHOUT spike shoes.
IMG_0674 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
Last thing was to crack the garage doors and run around outside to peel up the tape. So it is 8:45pm and I plan on applying the second coat around 5pm tomorrow, so inside a 24 hour re-coat window. Before going to bed around 10:15pm I checked the floor again and it already started to even out, so that helped me sleep better knowing I wouldn't have a zebra floor in the morning.
IMG_0676 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
When I woke up at 6am the floor was dry enough that I could walk on it so I went to the corner and snapped this picture. As you can see the color really balanced out but some grinding marks, patch marks, and such do telegraph through. Other than that I do like the color as it is bright enough to help reflect some light around the room.
IMG_0678 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
 
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topcok88

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So I got home from work early and started preparations to put down my last coat of epoxy. I re-taped the garage door lines, got all my materials ready, and began. At 2:44pm part B and Part A went into my second clean 5 gallon pail and began mixing for 2 minutes using my phone timer. I proceeded to cut the floor in that took about ten minutes but the epoxy went on much better! Really flowed out smooth for me and was giving me hope in the end product!
IMG_0679 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0680 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0681 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
And at 3:27pm this is what I was left with. This time I simply dunked by roller into the 5 gallon bucket and applied it to the floor which worked much better. The 3/8” roller worked well but I did end up with about ¼ gallon left over in the bottom of the bucket when complete. I felt the second coat went on well, it flowed out and really looked good when finished. I think I may have been able to get away with a ½” roller filler but have heard horror stories of finishes being applied too thick and not curing properly so I reluctantly disposed of the remainder in my trash can.
IMG_0682 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
IMG_0683 by Sean Lund, on Flickr
So that is where I am at now... Waiting patiently. I would like to give a shout out to Justin from Garage Flooring LLC. I asked a ton of questions and I am sure he will be happy not to get any emails from me anytime soon, but he really was great about everything. I will most definitely provide updates as often as possible about how the floor holds up and I will have to direct any questions about this epoxy to him. As all I know as a mule is that it is water based.

Thank you for reading this and I hope you all learned something for your own floor coating experience!
 

Copymutt

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Amazing forethought and detail. Someday someone that ends up with your home will have absolutely zero appreciation of your efforts.
Jim
 
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topcok88

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So here is my almost two year update. The floor has held up better than I anticipated an epoxy would. In fact the areas where it appear hot tire lift occurred did not happen until after we bought a new vehicle. So I don’t know if the vehicle being bigger or the tire compound being different caused it but it has happened. As you can see the areas where we driving in and out daily shows signs of wear. But please keep in mind that we have a gravel driveway so we aren’t doing the floor any favors. Where to from here? Well I think I will be ripping out two walls to insulate, add electrical, and hide the airlines in the walls. As always thank you Justin from GarageFlooringLLC. When I get around to needing another floor coating I will be calling him first.
 
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aakanksha5

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I would better cover the floor with some sort of plastic cover or anything and prevent the extra effort to remove the stains that leave behind.
 

Badbob1919

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Looking for a job? Lol. As a homeowner, you did everything that I would have done. Overkill and attention to details are a art form. Looks like you even used the right cover, probably de-linted it and burned it just a little! Even cupped the cracks after filling them! You don’t know how many people skip that step!
 
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topcok88

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The thread from the dead - but its for science. Well it has been awhile and I want to let everyone see the condition of the floor before I re-do my garage. Unfortunately I am having to refinish my garage due to some termites. I will say for a product that was easy to apply this stuff has took a beating. It was home to two daily drivers, the majority of its life the driveway was gravel, and it only started having "hot tire" lift later in life in certain areas. I believe the majority was due the gravel that was repeatedly drug inside. The garage will have insulation, drywall and a mini-split soon - I still don't know what the next floor finish will be. I really want to do a flake to rejection floor with a little more grip that this provided. My wife has fallen multiple times due to being clumsy and the floor does get slick when wet. So thanks again Justin for the opportunity to test this product - it has been great for nearly four - five years. :rocker:

April 15 2021 Floor Update by Sean Lund, on Flickr

April 15 2021 Floor Update by Sean Lund, on Flickr

April 15 2021 Floor Update by Sean Lund, on Flickr

April 15 2021 Floor Update by Sean Lund, on Flickr
 
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