Coating floor in seperate phases

[iowa4x4dieselman]

I am in the process of building a new home and currently the floor in the garage was poured 2 days ago. I would like to coat the floor before moving in(projected for around the new year). The problem with doing the entire floor is I would like to coat the approach which will be under the garage door and with the weather turning to cold here in Iowa, I am unsure on the best way to approach this. The garage is approx. 1200 sq. ft. I thought I could do everything but the threshold, but worried about the colors being off without a good "break" in the floor. Another option I had thought was to do the "extra" area which is approx. 320 sq. ft. and then next spring move stuff to that area and back the vehicles out and do the main garage area then. The garage will be heated with in floor heating once hooked up. I have attached a pic of the garage for clarity.

Thanks.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

It's a great idea NOT to coat beyond the door for a variety of reasons.
If you have to break it up, stop/start on a joint for the least notice.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

It's a great idea NOT to coat beyond the door for a variety of reasons.
If you have to break it up, stop/start on a joint for the least notice.

What are the reasons for this, and what would be a good stopping point


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

What are the reasons for this, and what would be a good stopping point


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Once you cross the threshold moisture could be lurking under the slab.
This moisture could collect beneath the coating and cause a delamination.
It's NOT spring-water. It contains mineral-salts that eat away at the concrete causing the delamination.

I would stop at the door, or right where your smooth slab ends. Same place?

Good luck.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Font coat the apron as epoxies are not for outdoor use. Stop the coating at the inside of the door seal. The exposed costing would discolor.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

Once you cross the threshold moisture could be lurking under the slab.
This moisture could collect beneath the coating and cause a delamination.
It's NOT spring-water. It contains mineral-salts that eat away at the concrete causing the delamination.

I would stop at the door, or right where your smooth slab ends. Same place?

Good luck.

the door should end up on that smooth part, as they stopped that just inside the foundation walls.(doors are not up yet) The rough part is poured directly on top of the foundation walls.

The coating I had thought about using was hellfire, instead of a flaked coating. The floor has hydronic heating. Is it ok to leave it on to help the coating cure?

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

Going to resurrect this for opinions again. I have just purchased a polyurea kit from garageflooringllc. Where the garage door seals has a crown and will need to be ground down. Question now if i coat the back section and tape it off (so i can move stuff in) would it be very noticeable? i would plan to tape of the done section as well when it was done.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Going to resurrect this for opinions again. I have just purchased a polyurea kit from garageflooringllc. Where the garage door seals has a crown and will need to be ground down. Question now if i coat the back section and tape it off (so i can move stuff in) would it be very noticeable? i would plan to tape of the done section as well when it was done.

I am not completely sure I follow.

To restate what has been stated above, best practice is NOT to coat the apron.

As far as doing the floor in sections, generally speaking it is not the best idea. You can see minor variations in color and gloss and it is difficult to feather the two together. You end up with a distinct line.

For my customers that must do it, they typically will break at saw cuts or expansion joints.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

I am not completely sure I follow.

To restate what has been stated above, best practice is NOT to coat the apron.

As far as doing the floor in sections, generally speaking it is not the best idea. You can see minor variations in color and gloss and it is difficult to feather the two together. You end up with a distinct line.

For my customers that must do it, they typically will break at saw cuts or expansion joints.

Thank you. My plan was to stop at a saw cut joint. I have to move some things in the garage soon as we are moving in, but the garage doors don't seal well, and will need to be ground to ensure proper seal. With that being said i cannot coat the entire thing, but some things once moved are more "permanent" Cars can be backed out easily, but once cabinets and air compressor are in place, I have no way to move them out to coat the floor.

So if I am following correctly don't go on the apron outside the door, but should i stop it short of the door seal, or go underneath where the door would seal?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Close the garage door. Draw a pencil line using the seal (from the inside). Then tape to the outside of that line. That should mean your coating will stop just before/at the seal.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

Close the garage door. Draw a pencil line using the seal (from the inside). Then tape to the outside of that line. That should mean your coating will stop just before/at the seal.

Thanks!!

 

[Armorpoxy]

Another hint is to use 'Gorilla Tape' to tape your stopping point as the irregular surface of concrete does not work well with blue type masking tapes and even some duct tape.