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Coating for a very old and dirty floor

hoyt

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Jul 6, 2006
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438
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Virginia Beach
I have a 12x20 room in the shop that I plan to use as an office. The floor is a concrete slab that is probable 30 years old. I had to do some repair to the edge (new concrete about 12"x20') and do some other repairs to stop water intrusion into the room. It's nice and dry now (not hurricane tested however).

I have read several threads here about floor coatings and my takeaway is that I should avoid "kits" from the big-box stores, there are a few excellent commercial-grade systems available over the Internet and floor prep is a very important part.

A coating would be nice, but one edge (about 6"x12') is saturated with waste engine oil that soaked in from the adjacent room over years' time (and even up the concrete block wall). That all may not be a problem since base cabintry or bookshelves will cover all of the "bad" room edges.

Surface prep seems to come down to either grinding or shot-blasting; I shoudl be able to do either myself. Which is best? There won't be any heavy equipment or cars in this room.

I'd be using some area rugs over the coating, so maybe something not quite so bulletproof would suffice?

Alternatively, I could consider commercial glue-down wall-to-wall carpet. It looks like the cost is about the same (I can do the coating, but I'd have to hire out the carpet).

Again, this is an office in the workshop, not a workshop room. The workshop rooms are so crufty and oil-soaked that it would be pointless to make them pretty; they already have a charm all their own.

Comments? Advice? I'm open to suggestions.
 
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shaun oriold1

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Oct 9, 2011
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Burlington,Ontatio
Take a torch to the oil spots, to draw the oil to the surface. Keep wiping away with Xylene until its all gone.

Coat with an epoxy, ideally with flake to conceal even more imperfections, and put a polyaspartic top coat. Buy from someone like Legacy. They'll help you out with the details....

Shot blasting is best, but if you dont know what you're doing you'll probably have problems with corn rows showing where you ran the machine, which will be visible in the floor. Grinding therefor is your better bet -95% as good as shot blasting!
 

Thumper68

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May 16, 2013
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Location
Duluth MN
I would go with a laminate floating floor, no need to f-around with the stain and will give a softer surface for walking/standing.

There are so many styles you can have just about any look that you want.
 

astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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3,001
Location
Mid_Michigan
I would go with a laminate floating floor, no need to f-around with the stain and will give a softer surface for walking/standing.

There are so many styles you can have just about any look that you want.

X2 on a laminate or vinyl floor. Cover up the mess and make a softer walking surface. Done in a day and ready to move in.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,173
Location
SE MI
I used Rustoleum Epoxy on a laundry room floor and it is holding up well. The flakes/chips look good !

Nothing will stick to dirt/oil/grease. Start by wetting the concrete. Then apply a liberal amount of dry laundry soap, like Tide. Scrub with a nylon bristle push broom. Rinse well, use a pressure washer if available. Let dry well, 24 hours.

Use a product like DriveUp or Greased Lightning, full strength on any remaining spot. Scrub in. Let dry over night. Rinse well again.

Now you should be good for etching.
 
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James-W

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Feb 3, 2013
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12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
Perhaps a plastic floor tile would work out better for you. It would require very little prep and it would go down quickly so you could move into the office space right away.
 

jaye944

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Nov 26, 2013
Messages
1,077
Location
GTA, Ontario, Canada
see my links but have also tried to answer you as well

I have read several threads here about floor coatings and my takeaway is that I should avoid "kits" from the big-box stores, there are a few excellent commercial-grade systems available over the Internet and floor prep is a very important part.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

A coating would be nice, but one edge (about 6"x12') is saturated with waste engine oil that soaked in from the adjacent room over years' time (and even up the concrete block wall). That all may not be a problem since base cabintry or bookshelves will cover all of the "bad" room edges.

you should clean it up, see my links, get as much out as you can then GRIND it

Surface prep seems to come down to either grinding or shot-blasting; I shoudl be able to do either myself. Which is best? There won't be any heavy equipment or cars in this room.

Grinding is best if you've not done shot blasting you could do some damage, $200 for 4 hours for a floor grinder from Home Depot GET THE VACUUM attachment

I'd be using some area rugs over the coating, so maybe something not quite so bulletproof would suffice?

IF you go my route, I would put some of thoes tacky things to the bottom of the rugs to stop slippage, but if you use flakes, it shouldndt

Alternatively, I could consider commercial glue-down wall-to-wall carpet. It looks like the cost is about the same (I can do the coating, but I'd have to hire out the carpet).

that is an option

Again, this is an office in the workshop, not a workshop room. The workshop rooms are so crufty and oil-soaked that it would be pointless to make them pretty; they already have a charm all their own.

tiles or epoxy or even a laminate floor

Comments? Advice? I'm open to suggestions.
 
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