Coating for chainsaw aluminum fuel tank interior

[R_C]

Last year, I decided it was time to replace my vintage McCulloch Pro 10-10 chainsaw that has served me well for decades. I bought an Echo chainsaw from HomeDepot and the ignition coil failed after using it only a few times. Sheesh! Trying to get an OEM replacement coil in a timely manner is not possible. I have both OEM and China knockoff coils ordered.

Meanwhile, I pulled out the McCulloch, recalled the leaking carburetor and ordered a rebuild kit so I would have a backup chainsaw. I started cleaning, got carried away, and two hours later I had it mostly disassembled and cleaned as you can see below.



Everything is in pretty good shape except the bottom of the fuel tank. I don't recall having any fuel tank or filter problems but the bottom of the fuel tank lost its paint and is pitted. There is nothing loose to the touch but it looks like a problem I should address before reassembling.



The picture above shows the top and bottom of the fuel tank. Is there any coating I could use to seal and protect the bottom of the fuel tank to prevent further deterioration? Something that won't quickly break down and clog the fuel pickup line's filter. Thanks.

 

[RTM]

POR fuel tank sealer?

https://por15.com/products/fuel-tank-sealer

 

[R_C]

POR fuel tank sealer?

https://por15.com/products/fuel-tank-sealer

Thanks for the recommendation. I just read a bunch of reviews on Amazon and it looks like the perfect solution for this project. And something I will remember for other restoration projects.

 

[RTM]

something I will remember for other restoration projects.

I’m planning on using mine for some lanterns with crusty tanks. Using sash chain to knock the lumps out.

 

[moemc]

I want to know what they painted it with to begin with, that held up that well for decades submerged in fuel

 

[ericm]

I would not recommend Kreem, having had a bad experience with a motorcycle someone else used it on.

Whatever you do make sure to really clean the surface to get all the premix oil out of it.

It's cool that you can take the fuel tank apart to get into it!

 

[Steve_P]

Do you have the capability to blast the tank area to bare metal? If you can, then you may not need to coat it. Aluminum was used for carburetors, uncoated, for decades.... And it works fine. For a saw, just keep the tank full after use.

For sure, a coating, if it holds, is the way to go, but I'm not sure if it's necessary. And if you're going to coat it, you really need to blast it to a bare finish. And if you do that...

 

[R_C]

I don't have the capability to blast the tank but I've soaked all of the aluminum parts in my parts cleaner and they cleanup up nicely. I've ordered an 8 oz. can of the POR-15 fuel tank sealer so I will give that a shot. Since it's easy to take the top off the tank for inspection I feel comfortable trying the coating. And it will be a learning experience for other projects. Not sure if it helps with longevity but I do empty the fuel tank every year after last use in the fall and don't use the saw again until the next summer.

 

[R_C]

I used the POR-15 fuel tank sealer on both halves of the tank. I put it on with a brush but I quickly realized it doesn't stay in place like most paints. I made sure I had it thoroughly mixed and ended up rotating each tank half to coat it just like you would do with an enclosed tank. It is very runny but it dried nice an hard. Here's how they looked after the sealer dried.



While it was disassembled and cleaned, I painted everything but the cylinder, rebuilt the carb, installed a new fuel line and filter then reassembled. It started right up and runs great. It's nice to have my 50-year old McCulloch back in business.

 

[MiteyF]

That's how POR-15 is usually used, put it in a tank, and rotate every once in a while to let it coat everything.

However, it's usually used in "regular" fuel tanks where you only have access through a small hole.

I've had great luck with it, and put it in every old motorcycle tank I re-do.

Also, nice saw. Mine cost me $8 (plus a new bar, chain, and a few bits and pieces) but runs/cuts great. And nothing else sounds like an old Mac

 

[R_C]

Also, nice saw. Mine cost me $8 (plus a new bar, chain, and a few bits and pieces) but runs/cuts great. And nothing else sounds like an old Mac

Only $8? Nice! I got mine 30+ years ago in a package deal. For $150 I got the McCulloch, a Rockwell table saw, and a pickup bed trailer.

I was so frustrated with the new Echo chainsaw, I bought two additional old McCullochs on eBay. The chain brake I added came from one of those and between the two I'll do a full restoration to have one more fully functional McCulloch. They are great saws.

 

[MiteyF]

Technically it was 5 saws for $40, sold the rest (for parts or after fixing) for well over that combined, but I still call it an $8 saw.

Mine didn't have the chain brake on it when I bought it, and I've never bothered to find one and put it on. Someday I'd like to go through it and repaint etc, but it runs so well I don't dare tear it apart right now.

 

[R_C]

I used mine for 30 years without a chain brake. But added safety was one reason I bought the new Echo saw. When I decided to restore the McCulloch I wanted to add the original chain brake. They are mechanically simple and work great.

 

[Steve_P]

I used mine for 30 years without a chain brake. But added safety was one reason I bought the new Echo saw. When I decided to restore the McCulloch I wanted to add the original chain brake. They are mechanically simple and work great.

I worked with a guy in the '80s that nearly died because of a kickback on a saw without a brake and the chain hit his inner thigh. He was at a remote location and nearly bled to death by the time he got to the hospital. The scar was horrific and well over a foot long. And he was a very experienced saw user - but sometimes **** happens.