Coats 5030 tire changer repair help

[CamaroMan]

Hi all, thought id start a thread here on my own. Picked up a 5030 for almost nothing last week.. (incl a balancer) and thought id share my journey of getting it working, incl specs and parts ive found. I will need som help getting it up and running so if anyone is familiar with these please help me -

I know nothing about these machines and so far it seems anyone with mediocre skills can work on them.. it just takes some poking around. The lady at the coats number is very helpful and knowledgable.

So the first thing I noticed, is when I went to clamp the rim, is that the air just rushed out of the valve on the bottom, so i removed that and opened it up, it has i think 8 green orings inside and a shaft, everything was in good working order just dirty, so I cleaned it all up and re-installed.




No change - a call later to the coats lady and she said thats a definitive issue in the top cylinder (sits under the main plate). She added this is accessed from the top, so I remvoed the 4 allen bolts on the top plate, popped off the 4 high pressure hoses and the plate lifted off.

From there, the cylinder was easy - 2 hoses and 2 bolts (you have to use a thin wrench to hold the shaft). The cylinder has 4 long bolts on each side, one side is a cap, the other has a shaft and seals. The inside seal (3-1/2" diamter) was clearly damaged as u can see (lip was folded over / no lube??).

New part was $45. Lubed it with hydr oil (i read silicone grease is better) but its together and working flawlessly now..



The upper seal kit: Ref part number highlighted - its a 3.75" OD seal kit number: 8183811 / 183811. Remember to lube between the 2 lips as well! Gently rotate it into place and remove any burrs/edges from shaft before assembly. Remember the scarf seal and orings too in the end caps.



Canister that houses the seal:



Canister end caps:

 

[CamaroMan]

Next I noticed when clamping the air would blow past the seal on the pump that sits below the transmission (one with the small v pulley). I know very little about these so tore into it. The air was leaking past this seal, however upon removal found the vanes were really worn (they measure 1-34 by 11/16 by 3/16 fwiw.. I printed 4 from carbon fiber on my 3D printer and will see how they work. I have kept the worn originals. I also have a new seal here:

Here is the air pump rotor and the vanes 4 vanes sit in a slot with a spring on the inside)... see the wear on the original?



Here is the seal number: (this is a low psi seal, 7 which lead me to believe that the pump internals were worn as it leaked after i reinstalled and tested, perhaps some cross leaking is acceptable?) I'm not 100% sure if this is the original part but this is what came out. whats nice is the pocket is deep enough for you to set the seal at a shallow or deeper depth in case your shaft has developed a groove like mine has..

Air pump seal: Cross reference national/timken 471549 OR SKF 5150 - Spec is 1.375 x 0.500 x 0.250 - about 6-10 bucks on ebay.




my compressor is at 25 gal and 120psi, the changer does seem to have a reserve tank so I usually let that fill, then refill the 2 compressors I have (25 + 8 gall inline) and then try use the table - will update later.

 

[CamaroMan]

Yesterday I pulled apart the right pedal valve assembly as it had a steady hiss, 2 orings were mushy, and the valve shaft had a small crack, so i epoxied that, and resanded it back down - i also check the body with a straight edge and it seemed good. Replaced the orings with viton ones (all I had that matched), oring sizes were 3/32 thick, 11/16 ID and 15/16 OD (ill dbl check again at shop).

The valve is now not leaking at all - so thats one step closer. I still had excessive blow by out of the air pump vent indicating an internal leak issue-


Spoke to a tech and he said the vane to end cap clearance is 1 thou - mine come in at 1.5 thou. I removed the shim gasket and applied a med duty removable threadlocker as a gasket instead to gain some clearance - it sat overnight so will test again today, hopefully no more blow by at the air pump.

I do need assistance as my air pump is not doing that well.. despite the bore looking good and springs/vanes moving freely. Im about to purchase a NOS unit on ebay today is my trick does not work..

 

[CamaroMan]

Ok so yet another update - I bought a new compressor, tired of messing around with ones half working and i was already behind work at the shop.. I saw a video where one guy had bypassed the reg valve and tapped straight into the main tank, i did this mod with a water filter, and the tire changer now works like a charm. Low psi and low flow will make a HUGE difference in how these perform. I am a small one man shop so dont run massive compressors, currently on the harbor freight 28gal super quiet unit and it seems to perform fine. It just about constantly runs but performs great.

Sometimes when I get stuck removing 30 year old trailer tires with rock hard sidewalls I will angle grind the steel belt half way thru before it gets to the tight section at the end, this takes ALOT of strain off the machine.