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Coats Rim Clamp Tire Machine Problems

boxrucker4

New member
Joined
May 8, 2020
Messages
3
Location
southwest wi
I've got a Coats rim clamp tire machine. Bought it used. Everything works but the rim clamp part (jaws) seem to be weak. I can clamp a rim down, but I can get it to rotate/slide on the jaws easily by hand. Seems like the clamping power is weak. Anyone have any suggestions? Weak cylinder or faulty valve? Thanks
 
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Andy1234

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Joined
Jul 5, 2018
Messages
44
Location
St Louis
Start with the pedal (valve) assembly, make sure that there are no rubber chunks/old valve stems stuck underneath it and keeping the foot pedal from making it's full length of travel.
After that, clean the linkages around the foot pedals, dump some air tool oil in the air inlet and get some oil to the seals. Water in the air is the enemy of these machines, it settles and causes the cylinders to rust and pit, and that causes the piston seals to tear and lose sealing ability.

Andy
 

IndyGarage

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Messages
9,673
Location
Indy
That's good advice above. Definitely get some oil in the air and run the machine some. I always squirt a few drops into the inlet before I connect it to the air supply.

The other thing that happened to mine is the steel base plate that holds the rim clamps got surface rust and that impeded the movement of the clamp mechanism. I had to clean up the rust and spray some wd40 on the base plate to get them to loosen up.
 

JSGAuto

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2009
Messages
736
Location
Northern NJ
Do you have any air leaks? I have an RC-15a. Had an air leak on the bead breaker, once I fixed that my clamping force on the table went up.
 

ovilla

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
2,342
Location
Plainfield, IL
All the COATS tire changers get used a LOT before companies move on to a new machine. I had the same issue with my COATS 5060EX and my 7060EX. Purge your lines of any water and if you’re still having issues, order one of these o-rings kits for the air valve that operates whichever function you’re having an issue with. These o-rings work on ALL COATS air valves. My 5060 is like 20 years old and the same o-rings also worked on my 5 year old 7060 too. Anyway make sure to always buy the green ones. These will be a ***** to replace. You’ll need a helper to hold a flashlight while you use a small pic to carefully swap these out. Just be patient. When I did mine I found that half of the o-rings in my air valves were really worn and were causing air leaks. The new seals made my air valves and my whole machine much quieter. Also, make sure to use air tool oil on the seals and then use it every time you use your machine too.

To temporarily fix your slipping wheel and increase clamping force, cut a small 2” slot/hole in the center of four shop rags and then lay the rags on top of each claw (letting only the claw head) poke out of the rag. Make sure a part of the rag is bunched up in the curved part of the claw where the edge of your rim makes contact with your jaws. The rags will help grab the rim and will keep them clamped down. You can also just put four of your socks on your jaws and let the long piece of the sock (toe part) drape onto the top body of each claw (facing toward the center of the table) and then carefully place your wheel on top of the socks. This works! I’ve done it many times. Which COATS model do you own?

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ovilla

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Dec 18, 2005
Messages
2,342
Location
Plainfield, IL
Mine is a 5060A. Sounds like a good rainy day project. I appreciate all the help!


Mine is the 5060EX (110v electric turn-table) but everything else is the same. Great machine! You can find parts all day on eBay for anything you may need. All of the manuals are still online and COATS is based out of TN, so you can always call them with questions too. Their tech support is really good.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

finn

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,202
Location
The UP, God's country
My neighbor has an ancient Coats 2020 that broke an Internal linkage arm. Coats had the print and could provide the part, and that machine is probably over fifty years old. Can’t remember if we found the prints online or called them first.

We ended up having a local machine shop make the piece for half the cost and, as far as I know, it still functions four years later.
 

haanzel

Active member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
44
Location
Texas
I just picked up a used 5060EX. The clamps work but when I start turning the rim, it jumps from the rims. It sounds like either the rag trick or new valves would be needed to fix this, am I am correct on this?
 

Klack593

New member
Joined
May 7, 2021
Messages
1
Location
Charlotte
Hey guys! I just recently bought a used 5060EX changer and am having some problem.. I’m hoping that someone may be able to help me out. The clamps on my machine are fairly weak. I replaced the foot control valve and rebuilt the table top cylinder with new gaskets and it still didn’t fix my issue though it did improve the strength. It clamps hard enough now that the wheel is harder to spin with force but still does. Is there anything else that you guys think could be the issue? I don’t want to dump too much money in this machine as it’s only for personal use but I also don’t want an unsafe machine when using. Any tips / help would be very appreciated!
- thanks for your time!
 

Dans Garage NC

New member
Joined
Apr 26, 2023
Messages
2
I just bought a 5030A and am replacing the o ring seals in the rim clamp piston and the coupler. Do you recommend putting tool oil (Or some other lubricant) on them to help them seal? Thanks. Video will be up in a couple weeks on YouTube Dans Garage NC.
 

CamaroMan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2017
Messages
59
good stuff - just picked up a coats 5030 for 200 bucks and a balancer for another 200. My upper seal was shot (no holding power), real easy to remove - all done from top:
4 hex bolts from table. 4 pex style hoses at each jaw.1 hose clamp up front and one on the backside. table top now lifts off. pump has 2 1/2" bolts holding it in, undo those (use open end wrench on shaft). Open the can - 4 long bolts each side. seal bolts on inside with a thin 1/2" nut. Superbly easy to remove / install. I cleaned mine out very well, and alight coat of hydr oil inside and also between the 2 seal lips and shes working like a charm now.

My (left) pedal valve/orings was dirty but holding air and working well after a good cleaning. orings were intact. Also easy to remove/clean/reinstall.

I now noticed today the seal on the vane pump was leaking when the table was turning under pressure (getting the first section of bead over the rim) - verified with soapy water and lots bubbles .. I slackened off the pulley, popped off the belt, removed the small v-pulley via the allen screw, popped in a tapping screw and managed to pull the seal out in place. Ordered a new one but im not sure if the original seal was high pressure so looking into it.

fwiw the seal size for the coats 5030 is .250 .500 and 1.375 bore (seal is 1.379).

fwiw this nationa/timken seal fits the size - not sure about the pressure.. ordered 2 so will see. The bearing in the back is a 6201..

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Thats me dinging up the bearing seal! looks like it shd hold for now but i do have a drawer full- dont wanna pull pump out right now.. shd be ok-

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