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Code question: last resort for this layperson

duneslider

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Maybe check out Airthings.com and get an air quality tester and place it in that room/closet and see what it says over a few days. I know the airthings tester is a little on the expensive side but it is very good and easy to use. I have several family members with asthma and I got it to see if indoor air quality had any correlation with their symptoms. Its a quality device. Anyway, if there are dangerous vapors getting into your unit this will give you the data to prove it.

I think you will have a tough time getting management to do anything without proof there is something going on.
 
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walta

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Before you lawyer up or the complex starts spending money on repairs, try walking into the office tell them you no longer feel safe in the in that unit. Ask them nicely if they have different unit, they would allow you to occupie preferably not next to a garage, if they say a different unit is not possibly ask them if they will let you out of your lease. If they are not interested in letting you out of your lease let them know your plan is to invite the building and fire inspectors to visit your apartment tomorrow and after that your calling all the TV stations.

The building and fire codes are very strict about having “rated fire wall” between any garage and any living space especially in multi-family units.

The box you showed is clearly not rated for use in a firewall. The box looks pretty new to my eye. I am guessing it was added recently and certainly after the building was inspected. If my guess is correct management knows it is a violation and is looking for an easy way to make the squeaky wheel go away.



Walta
 

wyliesdiesels

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Before you lawyer up or the complex starts spending money on repairs, try walking into the office tell them you no longer feel safe in the in that unit. Ask them nicely if they have different unit, they would allow you to occupie preferably not next to a garage, if they say a different unit is not possibly ask them if they will let you out of your lease. If they are not interested in letting you out of your lease let them know your plan is to invite the building and fire inspectors to visit your apartment tomorrow and after that your calling all the TV stations.

The building and fire codes are very strict about having “rated fire wall” between any garage and any living space especially in multi-family units.

The box you showed is clearly not rated for use in a firewall. The box looks pretty new to my eye. I am guessing it was added recently and certainly after the building was inspected. If my guess is correct management knows it is a violation and is looking for an easy way to make the squeaky wheel go away.



Walta
Again a fire rated wall will not stop vapors and you dont even know if theres a double wall between the room and the garage
 

Innovate1

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My understanding of the codes is limited, but I believe the garage wall is required to be a continuous border, which I believe around here typically means the wall panels on the garage side are 2 layers of sheet rock, or 1/2" ply wood. The cable enclosure is on the protected side of that paneling and the paneling would have been inspected when installed, so I do not think it is a code violation. The holes in the enclosure are to dissipate heat from devices inside the enclosure and is also code compliant.

It is possible that there have been holes punched in the garage wall over time, and that is allowing air movement into your closet; but to be sure the neighbor is not leaving the car running in the garage especially with the door closed. That would be even more dangerous for him.

If I had your concerns about that vented enclosure recessed in the garage wall, I would seal it up by putting plastic or spray foam around it. It looks to be easily removable. I would also look for other causes of your illnesses, especially if there has not been any toxic gas levels detected and identified in the area. I believe that car exhaust is Carbon Dioxide, so make sure your detectors will alarm for that.
Carbon MONOXIDE is the main dangerous part of car exhaust and what common detectors are for. Another poster also mentioned CO2 - that's not a danger at all. You should be able to find a way to test air quality or get an inspector at your expense to look at things but it would be much better if they had access to inspect the other side as well. Other options are moving or confronting management. Hard to completely prevent fumes getting through short of raising the pressure in the bedroom slightly with a fan and keeping the door closed but I would think the leakage should be minimal where you may be able to slightly smell it but not cause exposure effects but that's just my guess.
 

wyliesdiesels

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If it's sealed it should,you wouldn't have those vents in the box if I'm reading the story right.
I take it youve never built a house. No vapor barrier is required on a fire rated wall. A vapor barrier is what stops vapors.

The vents in this can only vent the inside of the can. It doesnt cause air to flow from the other side of the drywall on the garage side. That doesnt even make sense. How could it even possibly do that? Not like the box protrudes past the drywall on the garage side.... smh
 

Lassen Forge

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If it were me, I'd move outta there - It's a rental and it ain't the only one in Travis Co. Especially with a garage next door... and contrary to what someone said, yeah, gasoline fumes (especially nowdays) have a LOT of weird and bizarre stuff in them - so yeah, it coulda been what made you sick. We had a rental car with a leaking fuel system (Hertz... a lot!) and gettting it back to the rental place made us woozy.

I believe that car exhaust is Carbon Dioxide, so make sure your detectors will alarm for that.
Carbon MONOXIDE. Odorless, colorless, and deadly. Carbon DIOXIDE is what you breathe out.

My "guess" is that the vehicle had a fuel spill which is what you were smelling. Worst case, it was left running (which is a big deal) - but would be picked up on a c02 detector.

CO detector, NOT a CO2 detector. Damn...

Or it’s a rogue landlord. Rentals also require a deadbolt with no external key.

No INTERNAL key - You can't have a key tumbler on a rental on the inside of a dwelling, as it is a fire code violation (if you need to get out you need to find the key which is in your pants pocket in the bedroom which is now on fire... We had a MIL unit we were renting out and had to change the deadbolts for that reason...
 
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Half-fast eddie

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No INTERNAL key - You can't have a key tumbler on a rental on the inside of a dwelling, as it is a fire code violation (if you need to get out you need to find the key which is in your pants pocket in the bedroom which is now on fire... We had a MIL unit we were renting out and had to change the deadbolts for that reason...
No ... I said it correctly. The idea is that the tenant can go into the apartment, flip that special deadbolt, and no one can unlock it from the outside. It’s another level of security, prevents the maintenance dude from getting in while the tenant is in the shower.
 

rlitman

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a CO detector will not "go off" (did you mean alert?; going off would be a bad thing) for gasoline vapors...

Gasoline leaks are not going to set off a CO detector. Gasoline Vapors are not going to cause an "injury" either from exposure. Most of us here on the journal would be dead if they did. Sounds like you had an anxiety attack or something that was triggered by the smells due to a sensitivity.
Skipping semantics here, CO detectors are ALL capable of detecting combustible vapors, and that includes gasoline. That's because CO itself is a combustible gas. They usually do a pretty good job of discriminating CO from other combustible gases and should alert with a T4 alarm (4 beeps and possibly a spoken word warning of CO) only when detecting carbon monoxide, but may have another set of beep codes for other combustible gases. I've personally seen a CO detector beep an error code when someone left a natural gas stove burner leaking, and on another occasion I've set off the combustible gas alarm feature of a combination CO/gas detector by using too much silicone spray lube (the carrier is hexane) in too short a time.

When you sought medical attention, did the provider tell you what you were exposed to? It’s a simple blood test to see if it was C0.
Around here, the fire department will use a special pulse oximeter to see if you've been exposed to CO. No blood draw is required, and I'd expect every hospital to have at least one of these devices for such situations. But as was explained, this was not CO, since it was a fuel leak from a non-running engine.

While long-term exposure to gasoline fumes MAY be harmful, it isn't going to kill you in your sleep like CO. Which means that the symptoms experienced can be determined to be from hysteria. I don't want to down-play any very real symptoms, and no, you shouldn't be getting garage fumes into a bedroom, but what happened was not life threatening.

That being said, you do really want to minimize any airflow between a garage and a bedroom, because if vapors get through, CO can as well. And your choice of buying a combination CO/combustible-gas detector for the bedroom was very wise.

If it were me, I'd buy a roll of aluminum tape and seal up the holes in that box. Technically, the holes are there to allow electronics inside to not overheat, but there's nothing currently in there drawing power. And I'd also seek out any other gaps in that wall you can find and plug them with caulk (rope caulk should be fine for a renter to use).
 
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dcg9381

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I stand corrected on the C02 - It's CO.
I wasn't aware that CO detectors would also pick up vapors from fuel. I know that in my RV there is a propane detector and a CO detector, separate deals.

I dunno what the goal is here. There is no vapor barrier required in Texas between a garage and heated space. Just a fire break. And as @wyliesdiesels mentioned, a vapor barrier is not going to protect you from fuel fumes (or if someone leaves a vehicle running in the garage). My garage is built to code, if I drop a gallon of gas in there, I'm going to smell it. The low-voltage box hole in that wall probably doesn't help, but those are allowed.

If this incident triggered a trip to the hospital for me, I think I'd be after the liability insurance of the vehicle owner, not the landlord to get those bills paid... I think it's really an "who is insured for this" question.
 

u2slow

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I take it youve never built a house. No vapor barrier is required on a fire rated wall. A vapor barrier is what stops vapors.
Dunno where you're building. Fire rating here includes smoke-seal/fire-stop sealing of penetrations and joints. This is better air sealing than VB because it resists heat for a predetermined time (part of its rating).
 

billconner

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Just rereading and I can't tell if this is a building with 1 or 2 dwelling units OR if it is a building with 3 or more dwelling units. I got confused around
3 separate single car garage attached to my building. 1 is attached directly to my unit and the other 2 are stand-alone.
Are the attached or detached? The term "complex" could be a big building with 3 or more dwelling units OR a whole bunch of buildings each with 1 or 2 dwelling units.

Makes a difference as to what is required and, as pointed out, when was it built (under what code).

Just observations.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Dunno where you're building. Fire rating here includes smoke-seal/fire-stop sealing of penetrations and joints. This is better air sealing than VB because it resists heat for a predetermined time (part of its rating).
so your drywallers put fire-stop on all the drywall joints? or do they just use drywall mud?
 

u2slow

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so your drywallers put fire-stop on all the drywall joints? or do they just use drywall mud?
Depends on the rating required. A higher rating is required between occupancies than within.

They fire-stop the joints on the first layer of drywall (making the seal) and mud/tape on the 2nd layer.
 

ybnormal

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If it were me, I'd move outta there - It's a rental and it ain't the only one in Travis Co.
yeah, but we're talking Bee Cave out there. Bee Cave and Lakeway (upscale urban cities) are out there from Austin. in a nutshell, people can't afford to live there because rent is too high, but they can't afford to drive due to traffic/distance and high price of gas. it would be about a 45-60min drive for 20-30 miles during rush hour at the current price of $3/gal. I'd have to dig for data to support my statement but generally housing out there is $$$$. they can't even hire school bus drivers at $25/hr because of the commute factor. school teachers have to drive in from surrounding area. and recently they voted down cheaper apartment units because they want to keep their values up.
and they are not having any problems keeping those units full. at a guess, she's paying $2k+/mth. contrast that to commuting. the apartment management doesn't HAVE TO do anything, which is why her best option is to work with apartment mgmt and code enforcement to get a resolution.
 

dcg9381

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yeah, but we're talking Bee Cave out there. Bee Cave and Lakeway (upscale urban cities) are out there from Austin. in a nutshell, people can't afford to live there because rent is too high, but they can't afford to drive due to traffic/distance and high price of gas. it would be about a 45-60min drive for 20-30 miles during rush hour at the current price of $3/gal. I'd have to dig for data to support my statement but generally housing out there is $$$$.
I'll help:

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