Coffee pot rebuild
- Thread starter Manatee91
- Start date
dave*99
Well-known member
It looks like resistance wire. Maybe nichrome wire.
ForceFed70
Well-known member
Resistance wire wouldn't make sense here.
I think it's just your standard high temperature wire.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ALK97C/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I think it's just your standard high temperature wire.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ALK97C/?tag=atomicindus08-20
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
That's not correct. It's high temp appliance wire. Using regular wire is a good way to start a fire.
Tommy
The high temperature part of the wire is the fiberglass insulation isn't it? I'm not talking about using standard wire with a plastic insulation that can melt and short out.
dave*99
Well-known member
Whatever it is, it is a whole lot smaller gauge than the 12GA stuff in your link.
dave*99
Well-known member
If it does connect across the thermostat, then perhaps it is resistance wire. And that would be there to keep some current flowing through the heating element to keep the coffee warm after brewing completes.
Look at the terminations - the wire is wrapped around a post and then crimped in a lug. That is how resistance wire is terminated.
Look at the terminations - the wire is wrapped around a post and then crimped in a lug. That is how resistance wire is terminated.
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dave*99
Well-known member
Probably - assuming you have a working thermostat.
What is the failure that caused you to disassemble the unit?
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Personally, I would just go to Goodwill and pick up another used one for $5.
UpNorther
Well-known member
I believe the "rope-like" covering is asbestos insulation. No big deal.
Bring it into an specialty Appliance parts store.
Manatee91 - cannot see where your located in your profile. If you are in the midwest, I can name a few for you to go to.
Bring it into an specialty Appliance parts store.
Manatee91 - cannot see where your located in your profile. If you are in the midwest, I can name a few for you to go to.
nehog
Well-known member
UpNorther
Well-known member
Cool, your up on the Front Range.
Try this, same company who I go thru back here in MN and Iowa.
Dey Appliance/Dey Distributing
Denver
address.............. 930 Wyandot St. store hours........ M-F 8:00am-5:30pm
Denver, CO 80204 Sa 8:00am-noon
toll-free phone.... (800)797-8339
phone................ (303)288-9332 click here for street map
fax.................... (888)397-3398
email................. [email protected]
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Yeah, nickle plated stranded copper. I got that. Has better thermal and corrosive properties than bare copper. That said a bare copper wire shielded by fiberglass in a coffee maker should be fine. The heating element used in a coffee maker doesn't generate enough heat to melt solid copper wire and the fiberglass insulation will prevent it from shorting out. You could probably buy a new coffee maker for the cost of a roll of appliance wire, LOL...
sberry
Banned
My tech glanced, said he thought it was to keep it warm and that it needed the correct wire.
dave*99
Well-known member
Wrong.
This wire is a resistor used to limit current to the heater and keep the coffee warm after brewing. If you replace it with copper as you suggest, the coffee pot will percolate continuously.
Understood however the part that you quoted was in response to comment about appliance wire and using copper shielded by fiberglass is a fire hazard. The first thing I asked was is wire for electric supply or thermostat.
pepi
Well-known member
Man this is some high tech **** here. Cannot wait to see the video and here it run. Got any secret upgrades to pass along, I know I will be subscribing…
april fools .....
april fools .....
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The problem with any home use coffee pot is that they don't get hot enough to brew good coffee. You need to get the temperature up to 130 degrees . That's the main reason coffee in a press is so much better, you boil the water before you use it. If this was about how to hotrod a coffee pot it would be better.
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hey, now you're talking!
Let's weld a 1 1/2" tube off to the side of this thing and put a 4500 watt immersion element in it, and heat this ***** up proper!
dave89iroc
Well-known member
their accent
The French press is a container that you let the coffee seep in then push a plunger down to separate the grounds out. An Italian press is a 2 part boiler that forces hot water through packed grounds in to a second chamber to be served. So the French press makes more coffee but a italian press is espresso
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Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
It is actually good for you. It is a anti oxedent and as long as you drink 8oz of watter as well for every 8oz of coffee you are fairly nutral for water intake
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iron block
Well-known member
Has the big day day come and gone, or is the coffee pot still on the workbench?
Because it sounds like you might have a broken nichrome wire inside that asbestos jacket.
If that is indeed the case, then there is a shadetree electrician's trick to try: gently twist the broken ends together, apply a slurry of borax powder/water, then apply power and let the joint heat up.
If you are lucky, the joint will heat to cherry red and then the nichrome wires will sort of fuse together.
I've used this to keep an old school toaster going when the heating element got severed. And, no, I did not think it would work when I first heard about it, either.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
Not as much fun though.
Around here you spend about $20 for them at the thrift shop
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Thanks for the tipHas the big day day come and gone, or is the coffee pot still on the workbench?
Because it sounds like you might have a broken nichrome wire inside that asbestos jacket.
If that is indeed the case, then there is a shadetree electrician's trick to try: gently twist the broken ends together, apply a slurry of borax powder/water, then apply power and let the joint heat up.
If you are lucky, the joint will heat to cherry red and then the nichrome wires will sort of fuse together.
I've used this to keep an old school toaster going when the heating element got severed. And, no, I did not think it would work when I first heard about it, either.
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Looking for the very fine wire that is coiled around some sort of insulated material then covered with a heat resistant cover. GE was no help. The wire is very thin hope it is visible in pics. The bi metal switch works, checked it with heat gun. When opened bottom this fine wire was broken and what it was wrapped around crumbled.
