Pathfinder
Well-known member
Does a 14" cold cut carbide steel cutting saw blade work on a 14" abrasive chop saw or are the rmp's too high on the abrasive saw? I'm guessing the arbor would need a bushing.
John
John
Cold cut saw blade on abrasive chop saw?
- Thread starter Pathfinder
- Start date
Tbucit
Well-known member
Short answer NO it will nor work at all. You are correct in that the saw runs way too fast for that blade. A cold saw runs at a few hundred RPMs.
Randall
Randall
Chaz
Well-known member
Cold saws run a lot slower and go through expensive blades faster.
BADSIX
Well-known member
i don't know why anyone other than a hi production shop would want one.
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
What is the RPM of your saw?
The answer depends on that. You need the saw to run at or slower than the blade's RPM spec.
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Because ferrous metal toothed blades don't develop the kind of heat that an abrasive blade does. It leaves a very nice edge. Also they produce less dust mess and less sparks.
I don't run any kind of production but I love my metal saw a bunch more than the abrasive.
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BADSIX
Well-known member
were i work we must have a dozen of the cold cut saws and if your not absolutly carefull what your doing and your work piece slips a little bam there gos a 100.00 or more blade. when a good abrasive will do the same thing a lot cheeper.
OP
Pathfinder
Well-known member
Thank you all for the replies. Now I have an excuse to buy yet another tool.
John
John
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Yep, gotta take care what your working on.
I guess I have some incentive or at least motivation not to wreck the blades. Yes the costs are up there. A blade for mine is anywhere from $40-$75. It's a 10" so not as expensive as a 14".
I'm not doing any production. Just use a saw for home project use. With careful work a blade should last a reasonable amount of time. Anyway, my money, my garage, my preference so... BTW, did I say that I love my metal cutting saw compared to the abrasive?
I'm a bit confused though. You made the inference that cold cut saws work best for production use. But your example here implies cold cut saws are expensive to run for production because people aren't careful. Are yall going to switch to abrasives instead?
Chaz
Well-known member
Try a horizontal bandsaw. That's the correct tool for the job. Since I got mine both the abrasive and cold cut saws sit under the bench.
BADSIX
Well-known member
yep we use the 14 " and we have about 40 people useing them. it must have cost the company several thousnd dollars before the guys got use to them. its not so bad now probibly a blade or two a week that only makes a few cuts. and thats not to much compared to the amount of steel they cut. but we did the same work with abrasive wheel for years. there good for shops that need nice stright cuts on pipe and so on. we use socket weld fittings alot and they don't need a good cut on the pipe
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I've never taken any kind of special care with my steel cutting blade. I'm now on my second, and I've cut a lot of steel over the course of several years (first project was a wrought-iron fence with hundreds of pickets to cut). In my experience, the toothed metal cutting blades are much more cost effective than abrasive blades -- and that's before you figure in the time wasted on clean-up of abrasive cuts and all the junk you have to breath when you're working with abrasive blades.
BADSIX, I'm not sure what kind of saws they're using where you work. But I use a $300 Milwaukee 6190-20 and Freud Diablo blades. The blades were $40 each, and I've got a stack of them now, since I expected they wouldn't last nearly as long as they do.
I've also got a stack of abrasive blades that I don't expect I'll ever use again -- except for hand-held cuts with angle grinders.
To the original poster, I tried using a high-rpm saw with the carbide-tipped steel cutting blades, and it dulled the blades after a handful of cuts. I tried using a speed controller for the saw, and that didn't work either. It took away the saw's torque when it slowed down the motor. The blade would just stop when it hit the material.
You can get an inexpensive low-rpm chop saw from Northern Tool for $250 when they're on sale. And the Freud Diablo blades show up cheap through places like Cripe Distributing.
BADSIX, I'm not sure what kind of saws they're using where you work. But I use a $300 Milwaukee 6190-20 and Freud Diablo blades. The blades were $40 each, and I've got a stack of them now, since I expected they wouldn't last nearly as long as they do.
I've also got a stack of abrasive blades that I don't expect I'll ever use again -- except for hand-held cuts with angle grinders.
To the original poster, I tried using a high-rpm saw with the carbide-tipped steel cutting blades, and it dulled the blades after a handful of cuts. I tried using a speed controller for the saw, and that didn't work either. It took away the saw's torque when it slowed down the motor. The blade would just stop when it hit the material.
You can get an inexpensive low-rpm chop saw from Northern Tool for $250 when they're on sale. And the Freud Diablo blades show up cheap through places like Cripe Distributing.
OP
Pathfinder
Well-known member
Thanks Jack. I remember your post with the video of the circular saw cutting 3/8" thick steel plate. That post is what got me interested in a carbide blade for my abrasive chop saw. I did not realize at the time that a low RPM saw is required. I'll keep my eye on Northern Tool for the saw on sale.
John Minton
John Minton
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Coinicidentally, I found this reference in a H.A.M.B. thread on fabricating your own English Wheel frame. It's got some excellent info on a blade that will handle the RPM of a 12" DeWalt cutoff saw. Mentions Cut Technologies, Bellingham, WA for $160. See post #22:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=508071&highlight=english+wheel&showall=1
Hope it helps someone.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=508071&highlight=english+wheel&showall=1
Hope it helps someone.
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HemiRambler
Well-known member
I'm not a high production shop and I STILL love my Cold Saw. Matter of fact I got it to replace my horizontal bandsaw as it took up less space.
Blades are expensive - HOWEVER you can buy resharpened ones from Ebay for a LOT LESS than the cost of new. You can also check out the Industrial Surplus places - there's a few scattered across the country and in the age of the internet - you can shop online.
I bought mine relatively cheap (used) and later stumbled on a stack of resharpened blades for dirt after buying a couple cheap on Ebay.
The lack breathing in all that "dirt" alone makes it a 100 times better than a abrasive saw IMHO. Yes you have to be careful when using it - the same goes for all my tools.
Blades are expensive - HOWEVER you can buy resharpened ones from Ebay for a LOT LESS than the cost of new. You can also check out the Industrial Surplus places - there's a few scattered across the country and in the age of the internet - you can shop online.
I bought mine relatively cheap (used) and later stumbled on a stack of resharpened blades for dirt after buying a couple cheap on Ebay.
The lack breathing in all that "dirt" alone makes it a 100 times better than a abrasive saw IMHO. Yes you have to be careful when using it - the same goes for all my tools.
A**holes Garage
Banned
I have the abrasive and the dry chop saws from Milwaukee. I love the dry saw, cleaner, more accurate cuts.
On the dry saw, you have to be sure the work is clamped properly and the saw is up to speed before chopping.
I buy the Oshlun brand dry saw blades.
On the dry saw, you have to be sure the work is clamped properly and the saw is up to speed before chopping.
I buy the Oshlun brand dry saw blades.
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