Cold cut saw

[Belgique Basterd]

Recently purchased a second hand cold cut saw and it has been awesome, just made a small run of 10 tables for a diner and the saw performed flawlessly for over 400 cuts.

90° cuts were real easy to get the length perfect, I did struggle however to get double mitred lengths cut to size accurately, looking for advice here from long time more experienced users.

Any other tips n tricks are offcourse always welcome!

 

[The Cobbler]

no experience with metal ( well, very little) but with wood & a miter saw I would make a jig that is fastened to the saw and a stop block that can be adjusted . once set it makes for multiple same length cuts.

 

[dr_clyde]

I cut a small piece with a 45 degree cut on it of a known length. You can **** it up against the blade and take an easy measurement that way.

 

[bcradio]

Sorry I have no help for you but that is an awesome saw

 

[LXCam]

Scribe a line on your cut pieces ~6" back from the long point and scribe a indexing line on the vise back plate. That way you don't have to try to line up the blade with the cut you're only having to align the lines.

 

[Belgique Basterd]

Thanks for the tips guys

Planning on making dedicated tables left and right of the saw with a fixed tape measure and some stops to make cutting accurately easier, anyone have a homebuilt setup like this, any do's and don'ts or even better any pictures?

 

[Belgique Basterd]

Sorry I have no help for you but that is an awesome saw

It absolutely is!! Wasn't that expensive either (2nd hand) and just works so nice, perfect cuts, relatively quiet (compared to cutoff or dry saw) and easy to operate! Should've bought this years ago.

 

[strength_and_power]

Check www.scotchman.com for some measuring and stop ideas.
California Cold Saw has a nice resource for determining tooth count for various materials.
Be proactive and keep spare blades on hand. Sharpening the blades can be very inexpensive when they only have to take a few thousandths off. When you strip some teeth off and they have to run the blade multiple times to get the tooth profile, it can get expensive. That is a good time to change the tooth count. Biggest drawback to a cold saw in my opinion is having to change blades when going from solid stock to tubing. It never fails that the blade on the machine isn't the right blade for the material in your hand. Using a blade with finer teeth for thin tubing can cut solid stock. Slowly but it will do it. Cutting thin wall tubing with a coarse blade can be a religious and expensive experience when a tooth hangs up and the blade shatters. Going from 1750 RPM at the motor to 22 RPM at the blade via gear reduction produces a lot of torque. Enjoy the new toy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[racingtadpole]

If you're doing repetitive cutting to the same length, then a feed in or feed out table with a stop is the easiest way to get consistent cutting. If you just have a couple to do, clamp the first one you cut to the subsequent ones and use it as a template to line the blade up on.

Nice looking saw.