Cold saw vs HV Bandsaw?

[Corvus1]

Setting up the metal side of a home shop and it'll soon be time to move beyond cutting everything with an angle grinder. Since this is just for home and not industrial use in a limited space I'm wondering whether a cold saw such as the Fein Slugger, or a horizontal/vertical band saw would be the better choice. Probably something in the 4x6 range.

Costs seem to be similar. One advantage I see of the HV Bandsaw is if I get a decent one that can also do vertical cuts then I have options for non standard cuts at long angles or for overlapped square tubing joints. I couldn't do these on the cold saw so I'd need a portaband + SWAG table or the angle grinder. Seems like a big advantage but I'm not sure how often I'll make these. Also, in the same price category the cold saws seem to be much higher quality. It appears as though there are a ton of low quality junk band saws that are simply painted and badged differently.

What say you? As a primary saw which way would you go? Any experience with a better HV band saw for $500 or less?

 

[NC Rick]

The type of work you do is going to dictate the best answer. I personally have used only a 4x6 horizontal (Taiwan Delta) for 30 years. It is very versatile but changing blades and speeds is something that should be done often. I tend to alternate between thin tubes (around 0.40” wall) and 3” solid 6061 bars. I also cut a lot of higher carbon steels with it. I got a vertical bandsaw recently because doing sheet goods on the 4x6 is not so great due to the limited capacity. A Swag stand and a deep cut portaband would be worse from the capacity view point. We use a type of cold saw for aluminum which is a modified miter saw with a blade which cost more than the saw. For long stock only it is fast and convenient. The 4x6 can be jigged to cut lots of odd sized and shaped stuff where the cold saw would be poor to unusable.

First flush, get a 4x6 saw and some good Starrett or Lenox bi-metal blades. All around the variable tooth 10-14 is good. For thick stock I usually have something like a 4 to 6 tpi around and an 18 tpi for thin stuff.

With 1/2” blades (all I think you can use in those type saws) the cut radius is pretty huge. The vertical saw I have allows use of 1/4” wide blades for way tighter radius or contour cutting.

With a belt sander, drill press and a 4x6 saw its amazing what can be done!

 

[NC Rick]

Just thinking further, taking the time to setup the 4x6 and quite precise cuts can be made. Chewing through a 3” solid can be good enough where just a light facing cut is needed on the Lathe for machining work and nice bevel cuts are produced for square or angles for weldments. Again, setup time is significant. Go all out and get an Ellis miter horizontal/vertical for fabrication. I think you can put skinny blades in those too. That would be a dream to have for me.

 

[cvairwerks]

Depends on what you are mostly cutting. Light tubing or extrusions with close cut dimensions, go with a cold saw. Heavier stuff and big solids, then band saw.

In my shop, there is a vertical band saw, a chop saw and a demo saw. There is a 12x16 horizontal and 3 power hack saws waiting for overhaul. Watching for a Doringer or similar to pop up at a decent price.

I cut everything from .020" wall tubing to 6"x6"x1/4" tube and everything in between.

 

[zkling]

You are looking at dry cut saws, not cold saws.

The dry cut saws are great for tubing and structural. Bandsaws are better for solid stock.

 

[ez-duzit]

Every shop needs a V/H bandsaw. Mine does mitered cuts and has a gearhead for speed changes.