Collision repair advice

[csp]

Back in Oct-17 a woman who decided it was more important to send that text out than actually driving took a swipe at my '97 F250 that had not been in an accident since new. Now I'm finally getting around to repairing it.

I got a complete cab in great shape for next to nothing to be a donor in the area mine has damage. I was going to remove the entire right rear corner panel of that cab from top to bottom at all of the seams and use it to replace mine. In the photos there are arrows denoting these seams.

I'm now considering only removing the lower half and cutting it where a solid blue line is shown in the photos. Doing so eliminates needing to cut out many spot welds, including the area of the gutter which I'm not sure how it was originally assembled. I also believe that the top corner has a seam inside that isn't readily accessible.

Any advice from the experts on the best path to take? I'm not worried about body working the seam I would be cutting into this corner panel.

The replacement cab does have one dent below a body line seam that won't be a big deal at all to body work.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

If it were mine & I was replacing it I would drill all spot welds and replace as factory did. To me it looks like less work to repair your cab. Be surprised what a few pulls would do.


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[hiredgun58]

repair what you have
a good body man will repair that with a minimal amount of filler

 

[gofastwclass]

Sorry about the damage. I hate mobile phones in the hands of drivers. That is a topic I could rant and show videos of for ages....

If care was taken the original panel could be repaired by an experienced hand. There would likely be some stretched metal to sort in the process but it could be done with minimal filler. The problem is there are few experienced hands around so panel replacement has become king.

If you feel replacing the panel is the best for your skill set I strongly suggest keeping with the factory seams. This means drilling the spot welds and removing the panel factory style. This method makes alignment your main struggle which is far simpler than an inexperienced person repairing a stretched low crown panel. Trying to seam the panel where your line is will cause you stress trying to keep the panels aligned, warp free and visible seam free post repair.

 

[gungatim]

well i'm not an expert but have done my share of bodywork so i'll chime in....

before I ever cut and welded in a panel like that I would pull the interior and see what kind of access you have from the inside to push most of that back out. I did a rear quarter in a Jeep Commander where I actually cut the interor panel frame to get access and then welded it back together after using some blocking, prybars and hydraulic pressure to get it back in shape. the interior panel is not visible with the plastic panels on so you don't need to be be perfect with the welding and grinding. This btw was a MUCH worse crunch than yours. only needed a skim coat of filler in a few spots when I was done. the bodyline crease is going to be key, may need a helper on the outside.

you can also get a stud welder cheap at HF and pull a good deal of that.

either way, that looks pretty minimal damage from the pic, I would definitely fix the panel rather than cut and weld in a used one.

 

[countryroad82]

Not bragging or anything and definitely nowhere near as good as other guys here, but I have 20 years experience doing paint and body work. That out of the way I would repair that panel, easy fix in my opinion versus cutting and welding. Minimal filler would be in it at that. Where you’re wanting to cut I would advise not to as you’re only asking for trouble it being at eye level and so close to a body line at that. If it were me and I was bound and determined to replace that panel I would replace the entire corner, but like I said I would just fix what is there as that an easy fix. Just remember when you’re pulling it out first in, last out on the dent. What I mean by that is wherever the damage ended in the collision, start there and end where the collision started.

 

[bigguns69]

Like the some of the others mentioned, I would take the rear bench seat out and interior and make an attempt at repairing first. Incremental movement of the metal should get you real close to original shape. Use a hydraulic ram and some wood blocks to get a controlled push and support the the surface area so you don't push through the skin and create a convex dent.

 

[fasteddie]

I pulled a big but uncomplicated (no creases) dent out of the rear quarter of my pickup with a big suction cup puller from HF, a $2-$3 item. Dent popped right back to its original shape. I would try that on the upper part of your panel and see where it goes from there, some hammering and a little bondo. Like others have said, it looks repairable in place. To cut and weld, you're looking at a lot of down time and a big paint job. That said, you bought the second cab and you're gonna cut and weld because you want to, I get it.

 

[sberry]

I would be seeing if I could fix it first.

 

[shoot summ]

Another vote for fixing the existing panel, way less work than replacing, and you should be able to do it right.

 

[Bill Bowman]

Repair what you have.

 

[sberry]

Nothing wrong with some bondo in it either, that's why they invented it. Its not a vintage collector type thing they fuss over with a magnet. One of the first rules in collision work before any cutting goes on is see how much you can get out with a hammer. I am a career welder with a shop, about the last way I wanna do it is cut and weld if I can fix it with a hammer.

 

[MARINA]

I would repair the original panel if it was mine. If you really want to replace the panel I would section it in the window opening area to get the smallest seam.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Wouldn't even consider cutting that panel off. No way.

The single cabs have good access to that area with the interior removed, I expect you'll find the same. Even if you don't have access, some good stud placement and some muscle work could easily correct what you are dealing with.

 

[racingtadpole]

If it were mine, I’d have turned it in to her insurance to fix....

 

[csp]

The access from the interior is almost non-existant. There's quite a bit of interior structure on the extended cabs that isn't there in a regular cab.

Remember, I have a bare cab and can see what it looks like from the inside without removing any of my interior.

My thought was centered around not being the most experienced at shrinking and there is some rust beginning to show in the bottom corner like most of these body style have.

I appreciate the opinions and will put more consideration into working what is already there. I'll be seeing a cousin who is a body man tomorrow and get his opinion as well.

I would love to have turned it in to the woman's insurance. Unfortunately law enforcement took their time getting to the scene, and she fled. Her information I had was false and the plate on the vehicle had been stolen. This was a 60+ year old woman as well.

There are other reasons why I'm not turning it in to my insurance as well.

 

[ScottsGT]

That repair is easy for a body man. I'd never think about replacing that panel. Get a stud gun and a puller and go to it. Start on the body lines.

 

[Mike.ASC]

I have seen good PDR guys repair similar damage. I would search for a good PDR guy in your area. Many PDR guys do regular repeat work for many dealerships.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

Beating a dead horse here but I'll chime in anyways....That is a very easy repair...for a skilled bodyman. Most of that damage will pop right out. I haven't worked on one of these in a long time so I don't recall what the inner panel looks like but I'm sure there's adequate access to do some working of the metal. I would NOT cut away at the inner panel and re-weld. I'm sorry but that's some hack ****. There is nothing like factory installed panels. It can never be 100% duplicated. This can be a quality, clean repair with minimal filler. I would not cut that off and replace it. Just my .02.

 

[gungatim]

Beating a dead horse here but I'll chime in anyways....That is a very easy repair...for a skilled bodyman. Most of that damage will pop right out. I haven't worked on one of these in a long time so I don't recall what the inner panel looks like but I'm sure there's adequate access to do some working of the metal. I would NOT cut away at the inner panel and re-weld. I'm sorry but that's some hack ****. There is nothing like factory installed panels. It can never be 100% duplicated. This can be a quality, clean repair with minimal filler. I would not cut that off and replace it. Just my .02.

I suggested that, and yeah, it's hack, but if it's non critical area and a backyard guy doing it, it works. I would never expect a body shop to do that, (though I've seen it done when I worked in one) but if you don't have access to all the pro pullers, hydro pack units, etc. it can be effective and well hidden...

on another note, I found these little rubber bags (looks like a hot water bottle with a blood pressure pump on it) that inflate to lift machines to place jacks under. forget the name, but a buddy showed me one. I was thinking they could be a cheap and handy way to pop out a dent.

I think they are called a "pump wedge" around $15....

 

[nh_yota]

Stud gun and some filler. If you need to fix some rust then cut the rust section out and weld in a patch. Replacing the whole (or half) panel will cause more problems than it solves. But I'm not a body man.

 

[csp]

I think they are called a "pump wedge" around $15....

Funny, I have four different versions of those. I use them for installing doors and windows to keep them in place as they are permanently attached. The manufacturer is a paintless dent repair tool company.

They're also commonly used to slightly wedge car doors open with no damage when someone has locked the keys inside.

 

[csp]

Beating a dead horse here but I'll chime in anyways....That is a very easy repair...for a skilled bodyman.

Therein lies the source of my quandary. I'm not a skilled bodyman. I've done several repairs to several old CJs I've owned, but they weren't perfect.

n a long time so I don't recall what the inner panel looks like but I'm sure there's adequate access to do some working of the metal. I would NOT cut away at the inner panel and re-weld.

Nope, I won't do that. I am definitely going to avoid anything resembling a hack job. Here's what the inner side looks like. I do have a porta power luckily. I appreciate the input.

 

[Jazz1]

You are more ambitious than myself. I would use stud gun. That's a nice solid cab you are working with.
There would be very little filler required since you can now access from interior as well.

 

[sberry]

Aint no way I am cutting that out. As was mentioned a stud gun and can unibit a few holes if needed in the liner and use a rod to pound out, even treat it a little when finished thru them. There is nothing wrong with some body filler when this is refinished, its why they invented it. Auto body guy secret weapon along with Scotchbrite.

 

[JeepsAreBuilt]

My answer to your question about replacing the cab corner is that you should make the cut in the window openings. This is how they are done at body shops. If you make the cut below like you marked, you would not be able to fully weld up the cut at the back panel unless you peeled it back far enough(more work). Also the amount of welding along the flat panel would be difficult and warp the metal(more bondo work). Cutting in the window openings makes for a small cut, and you can easily put in a backer sleeve to support your welding at the cuts.

However, I personally would repair that dent in the cab corner. I could give you an idea that I havent read on here yet. From the inside carefully pick a good spot and cut a hole using a small hole saw. Then, use a long punch and pound the dent out. This could save you from making difficult pulls from the outside, and you can finish up the pulls using a nail gun. I'm only giving you this idea, not how I'd do it or say its the proper way.

 

[Hammer1963]

I am an experienced body man and I would replace the panel because you mentioned RUST, this will allow you to examine what's going on under the surface and it gives you an opportunity to slow that rust down. Replacing the panel is not as difficult as some make it out to be and you and you have a donor panel ready to go. If this was a rare vehicle, then yes I would be repairing it but not with a stud gun. If you would like some advise, send me a PM and I give you some details on replacing.