Color Code for 220 V plugs

[abstamaria]

My Maxjax 2-post lift is a 220V model, but arrived without an electrical plug. The wires inside the power cable are red, white, and black. Which is neutral, live, and ground?

Any advice will be appreciated. Many thanks.

Andy

 

[rockwithjason]

there won't be a neutral wire in that configuration. you will have to open the unit an see which wire they used as the ground and the remaining two will be hots.

 

[sberry]

Is this a cord or cable. I think some of these companies let the dealer decide what to provide, my Mohawk came with a 4 conductor cord and a 3 ph plug, as I recall I am not sure they even used the correct pin for ground. I guess they figure its less to stock,,, really cheesy for lack of better wording than to send it with the right connector if they are providing one.

I am not all that impressed with Mohawk on a whole.

 

[abstamaria]

It's a cord, intended to be plugged into a 220v wall outlet. I wish they used the standard US or EU color codes (e.g, brown or black for hot).

 

[Executive]

there won't be a neutral wire in that configuration. you will have to open the unit an see which wire they used as the ground and the remaining two will be hots.

Some two post lifts come with a GFCI receptacle on or near the control panel. In this case, the white wire is required.

The OP needs to get the installation diagram or a nameplate diagram to show what the proper voltage and current are for this piece of equipment.

I've never seen a cord with red white and black inside without a green.

Chris

 

[abstamaria]

I'll check with the manufacturer, Chris. Many thanks.

Andy

 

[Speedy Petey]

It's a cord, intended to be plugged into a 220v wall outlet. I wish they used the standard US or EU color codes (e.g, brown or black for hot).

Thing is, what do you consider a "220v wall outlet"?

Units like this are NOT intended to be just plugged in. That's why they leave a whip instead of a cord and plug.

Black, red and white ARE "standard" colors in the US.
It's up to the installer to determine how to hook it up.

A car lift is hardly a DIY project, so the manufacturers assume the installer is experienced enough to know. Or at least can look at the wiring diagram and know what's what.

 

[Gregishome]

The manu is probaly giving the customer the option of making a cord connected /wall receptacle installation OR using a disconnect at the lift's ceiling/vertical connection point. ...

The unit will either need to be within 50 ft. line of sight from its breaker/fusebox and just put its cord spliced to power in a junction box or, the cord have a male plugcap installed on it and plugged in to a properly designated receptacle with the proper overcurrent protection provided.

 

[Stuart in MN]

The instruction manual is available here: http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/two-post-lifts/files/PS-7REVA_v2.pdf Unfortunately it doesn't say a lot about the wiring requirements, other than there should be a wiring instructions on the motor tag - does your unit have the tag?

Thing is, what do you consider a "220v wall outlet"?

Units like this are NOT intended to be just plugged in. That's why they leave a whip instead of a cord and plug.

Black, red and white ARE "standard" colors in the US.
It's up to the installer to determine how to hook it up.

A car lift is hardly a DIY project, so the manufacturers assume the installer is experienced enough to know. Or at least can look at the wiring diagram and know what's what.

The Maxjax is a portable unit - you wheel out the two lift arm parts and the hydraulic power unit, bolt it down to the floor plug it in and use it; then unbolt it, and put it away.

 

[Gregishome]

Thanks Stu for the manual. It states it needs a dedicated 220V /30 amp receptacle outlet. I take that to mean it is portable, with cord male plug cap/wall or floor outlet connection. Probaly does not state what plug specifications(NEMA configuration) to use because of what country it may end up in.

 

[Thruxton]

Thing is, what do you consider a "220v wall outlet"?

Units like this are NOT intended to be just plugged in. That's why they leave a whip instead of a cord and plug.

Black, red and white ARE "standard" colors in the US.
It's up to the installer to determine how to hook it up.

A car lift is hardly a DIY project, so the manufacturers assume the installer is experienced enough to know. Or at least can look at the wiring diagram and know what's what.

Actually, they are intended to be just plugged in. There is nothing difficult or arcane about this, you look at the wiring diagram, and the spec sheet from the manufacturer for the required circuit amperage, and wire accordingly. And personally I think this is a lot better approach than providing a welder (for example) which requires a 20A 240V circuit (with a breaker rated appropriately) with a NEMA 50A plug which lots of folks assume should just plug into a 50A dryer circuit, not realizing they no longer have adequate protection for their welder's wiring. The ideal approach though would be IMHO to provide the unit with the properly sized plug from the gitgo, which is probably what you meant. Just took the opportunity to rant a little I guess...

 

[abstamaria]

Many, many thanks. There was no wiring instruction. I'll consult Danmar.

I've been using the lift for some months now with no problems. I just wanted to be sure and decided to recheck.

I appreciate all the advice. My best,

Andy

 

[Dustball]

Many, many thanks. There was no wiring instruction. I'll consult Danmar.

I've been using the lift for some months now with no problems. I just wanted to be sure and decided to recheck.

I appreciate all the advice. My best,

Andy

Why didn't you say this in the first post?

 

[sberry]

As long as its grounded and working its fine.

 

[ishiboo]

Thing is, what do you consider a "220v wall outlet"?

Units like this are NOT intended to be just plugged in. That's why they leave a whip instead of a cord and plug.

Yes, they are - MaxJax is a portable lift... you remove it and slide it out of the way. So it's most certainly intended to be "just plugged in".

The reason is it's left is as a whip is the same reason that many welders/plasma cutters do as well - the user may want to install a 120v plug or a 240v plug, depending on how they're using it.

Black, red and white ARE "standard" colors in the US.
It's up to the installer to determine how to hook it up.

A car lift is hardly a DIY project, so the manufacturers assume the installer is experienced enough to know. Or at least can look at the wiring diagram and know what's what.

Every color is standard for something in the US according that definition, for a 240 circuit with ground, red white and black are certainly NOT standard.

One thing unusual about the MaxJax is it operates either on a 120v or 240v circuit, so I think that is why there is somewhat unusual color coding. Clearly there are two "hots" (when used on 120v, either one could be hot and the other neutral... does not matter for a single motor and switch), and the other is a ground... but, which is which?

 

[abstamaria]

I’m sorry for that, Dustball. I had posted on other threads on the installation and use of my MaxJax and it didn’t occur to me restate that. I apologize for the oversight.

I posted a similar query in the “MaxJax Install” thread and was told there is a possibility I have been running the lift on 110V (220V is the standard mains voltage here where I live). Anyway, what I will do as soon as I can is to recheck the wiring in the MaxJax and let you all know.

The problem here in Manila is that we get appliances and equipment from the US, the UK, Europe, and elsewhere, including extension cords and power strips. Obviously the color codes are not the same, but I did do my research there. It was the black, red, and white combination that was throwing me off.

I converted a workshop beneath our kitchen to a studio where I could play (badly) 60s music with my friends and wanted to be sure that all equipment was properly grounded. In that regard, in a three-prong outlet, because of the orientation of the ground prong (bottom in the US and at the top in other places), the polarity of the other prongs (live and neutral) are reversed depending on where the appliance or power strip was made. Or so it seems to me.

That is what prompted this examination and the mild panic that set in yesterday when I re-examined the lift wiring. The good thing is that it has been working and I'm still around.

Yes, the MaxJax is meant to be portable and plugged into a wall receptacle. The motor and pump unit is quite compact and rolls around. Here is mine, connected to a wall outlet.

Many thanks for the prompt replies. Garage Journal is quite a resource, and I appreciate your helpfulness. I will recheck and report.
Andy

 

[abstamaria]

Yes, they are - MaxJax is a portable lift... you remove it and slide it out of the way. So it's most certainly intended to be "just plugged in".

The reason is it's left is as a whip is the same reason that many welders/plasma cutters do as well - the user may want to install a 120v plug or a 240v plug, depending on how they're using it.

Every color is standard for something in the US according that definition, for a 240 circuit with ground, red white and black are certainly NOT standard.

One thing unusual about the MaxJax is it operates either on a 120v or 240v circuit, so I think that is why there is somewhat unusual color coding. Clearly there are two "hots" (when used on 120v, either one could be hot and the other neutral... does not matter for a single motor and switch), and the other is a ground... but, which is which?

Thank you, Ishiboo. I tried to do my research on the subject but was really getting little information on the red/black/white combination. I'll look at the internal wiring just to be safe.

And, thaks, too, Sberry. I won't change anything until I'm sure. I'll also retrace how I decided on wiring the plug (old age setting in).

Best,

Andy

 

[Speedy Petey]

Actually, they are intended to be just plugged in. There is nothing difficult or arcane about this, you look at the wiring diagram, and the spec sheet from the manufacturer for the required circuit amperage, and wire accordingly.

I see that now. This was not made clear until later in the thread.

When I hear car lift that last thing I think is "portable".

 

[Speedy Petey]

Every color is standard for something in the US according that definition, for a 240 circuit with ground, red white and black are certainly NOT standard.

Now we are getting into semantics. I think you know what I meant by that.
RBW are certainly "standard" colors in residential work. Commercial work is another story entirely, which I don't get into on DIY boards.

 

[Executive]

If my garage looked like that I would not be soliciting free advice on an online forum.


Chris

 

[abstamaria]

Dear all, the problem is solved. I opened the junction box of the motor, and the wiring is pretty straightforward and easy to identify. My connections appear OK. What I will do is replace the lead with a cable with standard green/white/black wires (difficult to find here), so I don't panic again in the future.

Once again, I appreciate the quick advice. (The garage just looks good in photos, Chris!) Thank you, all.

Best,

Andy

 

[Speedy Petey]

(The garage just looks good in photos, Chris!)

Yeah right. That is like the hot skinny girl saying "I'm SO fat!" (in my best girly voice).



I'm with you Chris.

 

[abstamaria]

I'm sorry you feel that way, Speedy, Chris. The forum is full of folks asking advice and providing it freely, and I think that is generally appreciated, regardless of the size or cost of the garages. That is what the forum is for. The best, most well-based counsel and direction are found here, and so generously provided by experts and very experienced guys.

Your criterion - don't ask for advice here if you can afford to pay for it - is in my view inconsistent with the DIY approach taken by many here or with the spirit of the forum. But I agree you are entitled to your opinion.

My best,

Andy

 

[Speedy Petey]

I was more joking than anything. About you saying it just looks good in pictures. That struck me as funny.
You must be a whiz at Photoshop then, 'cause that is one damn nice garage.

 

[abstamaria]

Thanks a lot, Speedy. My English needs a lot of refinement. I misunderstood you; please accept my apologies.

The garage is plain white, which in photos present the red tool cabinets (collected one at a time over the years, the youngest being over 12 years old) rather well. I really think it looks better in pictures.

Best regards, and thanks for chiming in on this query.

Andy

 

[FluxCore]

I didn't read all the posts, so forgive me if this was already posted.

You have the ability to use whatever cord the manufacturer supplied providing it is long enough and proper gauge.

It's really simple to use colored electrical tape or heat shrink to recolor the conductors at both ends to meet local coloring conventions.

I have rolls of every color electrical tape and heat shrink made.

 

[abstamaria]

That is a GOOD idea, FluxCore. Many thanks.

Andy

 

[FluxCore]

That is a GOOD idea, FluxCore. Many thanks.

Andy

You're welcome....but your gleaming shop make me hate you