Colored Receptacles

[Spudland_Dave]

So....where can I get colored receptacles which wont require me to sell a kidney or lung to buy a couple?
I'd really like some Yellow ones like this:
http://www.onestopbuy.com/leviton/52CM-62-8117.asp

But at $22 bucks each, they should at least come with a SnapOn sticker..

I dont need industrial/heavy duty/stainless steel gold plated. Want it purely for asthetic reasons. I figured I'd pay a hair more then Home Depot white or black ones, but never thought they were THAT expensive.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Not a fan...but Leviton Renu at Homers...
You won't get that yellow.

And or hit up Ebay and google for marine grade outlet.
It will be cheaper but not that much cheaper

 

[frankush]

This will save you a few bucks.

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/...erproof-Outdoor-Outlet-Yellow/163344/Cat/1338

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Not a fan...but Leviton Renu at Homers...
You won't get that yellow.

And or hit up Ebay and google for marine grade outlet.
It will be cheaper but not that much cheaper

Thanks, I'll look into that...it would pretty much have to be "That" Yellow...John Deere Yellow would be preferred...I could deal with CaseIH Red, or New Holland Blue receptacles.... Probably end up with Green Plates with black recept's.

Long story short, I was thinking about surface mounting EMT over on my workshopo end for the recept's around my work bench area. Was going to dry fit all of the EMT, have it and the boxes all powdercoated JD Green and then with yellow Recept's Voila...ultra cool & slick surface electrical. I'm a farm equipment junkie, not too brand picky so I could be convinced to go with CaseIH Red w/black recept if it ends up like that. Blue w/White would be VERY too, but then people might think I like the Ford automotive side...not cool.

 

[mobiledynamics]

FWIW, and this is not color specific....

If you're going to spend the bucks, go with Commercial/Industrial Grade receptacles.
I've always had these....

Current project - fashion one. Went with a specific color, matte, etc. Looked great. I hate the *rentention*.

Since then, I realized HOW much better the comm/industrial specs ones were

 

[matt151617]

Pretty much anything but white or tan is going to be expensive. For some reason anything outside these colors is considered commercial grade.

If you're going for the John Deere look I think it'd look pretty neat if you spray painted outlet covers green with those yellow outlets.

 

[StumpjumperDave]

if you really want to spend some money.... get colored EMT conduit

http://www.alliedeg.us/index.php?P=TrueColorEMT

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Would you settle for ORANGE receptacles (think Case tractors, REAL case tractors, old ones, not these IH/Case ones) Since orange is used in Hospital grade, isolated ground receptacles. These are also found in Decora style.

Or how about RETRO GREEN receptacles and wall plates.

Or, what about RED RECEPTACLES The red receptacles are also available in GFCI and in Decora style.

THIS is very interesting as it needs no face plate, and mounts over a single box. Similar to a product Hubbell makes.

Fruit Ridge Tools is a very good place to deal with. Their descriptions are consistent as far as terminology and are very through.

Charles

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

The outlets and such are not colored for decorator purposes, but denote the grade or capacity of the component. It's usually higher amperage (30A and above) and that's why you pay through the nose for them. Heavy duty versus normal.

You could do similar by painting the panels or buying precolored ones and leaving the outlets themselves white for a nice industrial contrast.

 

[Norcal]

Orange is a isolated ground, red denotes a emergency receptacle, namely one that is on emergency supplied circuits*, both models are avail as spec. grade or hospital grade (green dot). Other colors are ivory,white,almond,gray,brown,black.

The yellow ones are a corrosion resistant device, if one does not wish to pay the going price, eBay would be a place to watch for them.

*Such as a gen set in a healthcare facility.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The little triangle on some is an isolated ground (ground pin is not connected to the strap or cover screw (which get their own ground wire in some installations).

Just thought I'd add this to the green dot (hospital grade) comment above.

Of course, in your own shop.....................

Charles

 

[marty_p]

Of course, in your own shop.....................

Charles

And assuming NO city/county electrical inspection...

 

[thdewey]

I used different colored covers on my work bench to show different circuits to prevent overloading. I simply sprayed them with fusion spray paint.

 

[FJ 432]

Orange in my field also denotes UPS backed power.

Norcal has it right, emergency power however orange will stay up during an outage because it has a UPS that covers the time between the actual outage and the time it takes a generator to spool up.

 

[c4cruiser]

I used different colored covers on my work bench to show different circuits to prevent overloading. I simply sprayed them with fusion spray paint.

I've used one of those label makers from a office supply store to put a label on the faceplates that show the breaker number as identified on the panel label.

 

[Burtonrider10022]

 

[mobiledynamics]

For those that have actually painted them.......I'm curious how long it last after putting plugs through them, the faces getting nicked by a errent plug being touch on it's sharp edge, etc.....

 

[Spudland_Dave]

FWIW, and this is not color specific....

If you're going to spend the bucks, go with Commercial/Industrial Grade receptacles.
I've always had these....

Current project - fashion one. Went with a specific color, matte, etc. Looked great. I hate the *rentention*.

Since then, I realized HOW much better the comm/industrial specs ones were

Seriously...are then 100% better, for the price of a single Commercial one, I can get a box of 10 normal ones. I can replace a normal receptacle once a year just for the heck of it as a preventative measure and still break not break even in 10 years. Lets assume a couple of them never get used and others like here in my house & garage which are 6 years old and still are going strong....They might be marginally better, but the increase in quality does not line up with the increase in price.

if you really want to spend some money.... get colored EMT conduit

http://www.alliedeg.us/index.php?P=TrueColorEMT

I was planning on powdercoating my EMT. Will compare price & availability locally each way...IF I even do this. This is Plan B...Plan A is just go in wall wiring.

Orange is a isolated ground, red denotes a emergency receptacle, namely one that is on emergency supplied circuits*, both models are avail as spec. grade or hospital grade (green dot). Other colors are ivory,white,almond,gray,brown,black.

The yellow ones are a corrosion resistant device, if one does not wish to pay the going price, eBay would be a place to watch for them.

*Such as a gen set in a healthcare facility.

Is that part of NEC code or just rule of thumb...

And assuming NO city/county electrical inspection...

Nope, none at all. I'm free to do as I please. Truth be told, no inspections and having the ability to be free to do as I please was a requirement when we built/bought this place. I couldnt stand having someone tell me what and how I should do something.

As far as paint is concerned..not in a million years. Im sure it wouldnt stick.

 

[mobiledynamics]

It's not about the fact you can replace them....

For me, it's all about the retention. And yes, they ARE that much better.
I never knew HOW much better they were until I went with deesigner ones ....

Money is a subjective factor, like colors, food, etc.
For me, they are worth every penny.

As a matter of fact, I MODDED my $25 Lutron ones. Kept the color/matte pebble finish I required but behind it are hospital grade ones. I did not intend to use the HG ones, but those were the only ones my supply shop had at that time that would Fit the Mod..

 

[Charles (in GA)]

It's not about the fact you can replace them....

For me, it's all about the retention. And yes, they ARE that much better.
I never knew HOW much better they were until I went with deesigner ones ....

Money is a subjective factor, like colors, food, etc.
For me, they are worth every penny

Absolutely. I will not use anything but the commercial/industrial ones, even in the house, I changed them all out. Plugs would fall out on their own the cheapies were so worn out. I don't like to keep going back into electric boxes, you strip screws, mess up wire ends and all the other problems associated with fiddling with something over and over. I won't use anything but the back wire variety (not the cheap push in backwire, but the expensive put it in and tighten up the screw type backwire) I hate messing with wire being wrapped around screws. I'm even seeing backwire commercial type now that even the ground is a backwire. Those are fairly recent.

Charles

 

[kbs2244]

Could you live with just painting the cover plates?

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Absolutely. I will not use anything but the commercial/industrial ones, even in the house, I changed them all out. Plugs would fall out on their own the cheapies were so worn out. I don't like to keep going back into electric boxes, you strip screws, mess up wire ends and all the other problems associated with fiddling with something over and over. I won't use anything but the back wire variety (not the cheap push in backwire, but the expensive put it in and tighten up the screw type backwire) I hate messing with wire being wrapped around screws. I'm even seeing backwire commercial type now that even the ground is a backwire. Those are fairly recent.

Charles

Every recep and even switch I buy HAS to be the screw type backwire...Love those as well...the ground backwire has me interested!

Back to the topic at hand....has anybody cut open and verified and evaluated what makes a commercial any better? I'll be honest, I've had my share of commercial/industrial electric supplies, no normal recepts becuase why install beat to snot items in my shiny new house...alot of my supplies came from a shop up home where he'd attend auctions at various places from Gov, Industrial, commercial, etc... and truck loads of stuff home. Great prices...always has the most odd selection of stuff.
I really dont mind paying extra when I get extra, but there comes a point where paying extra just gets you a different box with the magic words of "Commercial" at work we always joke Commercial Construction means 2x the price you or I would pay and for 1/3 the quality of materials and labor.
I dont do "cheap"...the recept's i've been using are these one...suprise, they are listed as commercial..I didnt even know...LOL.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_24356-334-BR15W-L_4294722475__?productId=1069067&Ntt=receptacles

Looking at the specs there, looks like thats a commercial outlet I've been using, corrosion resistant, and 17.00 for 10....not 24 bucks for a single one. Only difference I see is the color. IMO a little price gouging I think...

Could you live with just painting the cover plates?

Thats probably what it will come down to...I'm thinkin my 2nd favorite tractor brand.....Oilver will come into play. Green with White Recept. BUT like I said, this all hinges on me going down the surface mount road...dont know if thats what I want to do yet.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Those lowes recept are not corrosion resistant, just plain ole commercial, they are not backwire either. I have used the Cooper and they are not as good as Leviton or Hubbell.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Those lowes recept are not corrosion resistant, just plain ole commercial, they are not backwire either. I have used the Cooper and they are not as good as Leviton or Hubbell.

Before crying false...I ran out to the garage to check...I KNEW they were backwire...see pic... and the correct link is:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_168237-1571-CRB5262-WCP6_0__?productId=3536386&Ntt=crb5262&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcrb5262&facetInfo=

So unless you classify only the "back stab" style as backwire...I think these are backwire...box says so too. My current box is a Pass & Seymour...my previous box was a Cooper. My Lowes seems to not stock Cooper anymore...everything is P&S

Sooo...plain ole commercial seems like a good deal for me. No need for corrosion resistant, although the first line in the description does read corrosion resistant..I'd think if i have corrosion problems, I'll have mold/mildew/sheetrock problems too.. I was less then impressed with the Leviton offerings at Home Cheapo..... Hubbell makes nice cord ends, I've got a pile of em...but I've never got touchy feely with a receptacle from em.

Begs the question...what does Charles use in his garage & house?

 

[puttsy]

If you could suffice for Case IH colors, get Black receptacles and red boxes and red or black EMT.

Raco has their '911' series boxes that should fit the bill.
http://www.hubbell-raco.com/feat_item.aspx?feature=22

And both Allied and Wheatland have colored EMT. Remember, NEC doesn't have color requirements for conduit, boxes, etc... so it's at your preference. Red is usually designated with Fire alarm [hence 911 P/N] and security systems but, as per code, it's irrelevant.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

If you could suffice for Case IH colors, get Black receptacles and red boxes and red or black EMT.

Thanks for that link! I could deal with CIH...My family has been IH since Farmall F12's were new...the only tractor ever on my family's farm has been red. I've been a green guy since birth. Running joke was I must have been dropped at birth or adopted...LOL

 

[mobiledynamics]

I can't speak from real world usage, but the Commercial Coopers are pretty nice. They have a little *plastic* wing cap the goes over the terminals. Out here in BX land = steel boxes....those plastic caps are a nice touch.

Not sure what Speedy Pete will say. I generally give all of mind 2 wraps with 3M 33+. Some sparkies detest it....It's not that much work on my end.

 

[puttsy]

Also, As far as other items if you want yellow and green:
Again, colored EMT http://www.alliedeg.us/index.php?P=TrueColorEMT (Either Green or Yellow. Green would be MUCH more obvious if it's off color from JD green though.)

But, Recepticles:

[B]Hubbell;[/B]
Colour |  15A    |   20A 
Yellow HBL52CM62  HBL53CM62

[B]Legrand/ Pass & Seymour;[/B]
Colour |    15A    |    20A
Yellow    CR6207      CR6307
Yellow    CR6200      CR6300

[B]Cooper/Arrow Hart;[/B]
Colour |  15A    |   20A 
Yellow  5262CRY   5362CRY

[B]Leviton;[/B]
Colour |  15A    |   20A 
Yellow  5262-CR   5362-CR

Pass and Seymour also has 'custom made' metal wall plates so if you go with some other color scheme, that may be something to look into.

Also, for Spec Grade devices, I prefer Pass and Seymour and give um' a wrap of e-tape (usually Scotch 35 [phase tape]). Cooper are nice too though with the plastic tabs over the terminal screws.

Overall, Hubbell are likely the best but, they are usually more expensive by a few notches and aren't that much better.

But, wait for Speedy Pete's input. He's got better field experience.

I'm a JD guy so I would exhaust all capacity possible to match with that but, we can appreciate a well done setup of most any color.

 

[puttsy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leviton-5262-CR-Corrosion-Resistant-Duplex-Receptacle-/120699996362

And if you REALLY want the yellow outlets, may want to look at those. But, their Leviton which many sparky's have been disppointed by in the recent past

Those are 15A (NEMA 5-15). I'm looking for the 20A (NEMA 5-20) CR outlets.

Develop some crazy googling skills and you can work wonders

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Also, As far as other items if you want yellow and green:
Again, colored EMT http://www.alliedeg.us/index.php?P=TrueColorEMT (Either Green or Yellow. Green would be MUCH more obvious if it's off color from JD green though.)

I'm a JD guy so I would exhaust all capacity possible to match with that but, we can appreciate a well done setup of most any color.

One thing about the colored EMT...I'm guessing that does not include fittings & sweeps/etc in the list of products factory colored?

I've got access to relatively cheap powdercoating...he does it on the side when he has a chance, after work, etc... I couldnt even blast an item for what he charges me to blast/treat/coat. SO I was thinking of cutting/bending/assembling everything minus the wiring...take it all apart and then bring it down to get coated whatever color I go with. It would be perfect JD Green..boxes/fittings/plates/clamps/etc..

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Everything in the house is identical, Leviton Pro Grade, 5252, they are back wired, flat face (no "slot locator" recesses) Front is nylon so it won't break out at the ground pin.

Shop has Leviton, same as the house except the face is not flat, has the typical recesses in it, otherwise identical to the 5252. Thats on the circuits on the north side. On the south side circuits, I used a Cooper Eagle (they have dropped that name I think, and now just use Cooper). These are basically the same, backwire, commercial spec grade. They are not as good as the Leviton however. I have two oddball Hubbell receptacles, also backwire,

If I have to add more, or replace anything, I'll use 20 amp Hubbells I picked up at the flea market for a buck each. Bought 20 of them (two boxes) plus a box of ten switches.

Switches follow a color coding that is industry standard, blue is 15amp, red is 20 amp and green is 30 amp. Also note that many of the switches and receptacles have industry standard numbering, the 4 digit numbers are the same from Leviton to Hubbell to Cooper, for the same item.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I've never been impressed with Pass & Seymour and after my experience with the L14-30 plug installation on some 8/4 cord, compared to the Bryant/Hubbell ends, I'm giving up on P&S. always did consider them second rate, and now convinced of it.

Lowes and Home Depot have gone to P&S almost exclusively, so I guess I'll be ordering more electrical stuff online. Grainger, even after my discounts, is usually more than I want to pay. Its easy to find it online from places like Fruitridge Tools or other Ebay sources, but you gotta know what you want and do the research first.

Charles

 

[puttsy]

One thing about the colored EMT...I'm guessing that does not include fittings & sweeps/etc in the list of products factory colored?

Yellow example:
Bridgeport yellow EMT fitting

Bridgeport makes coloured EMT fittings. Not sure if they would be cost prohibitive though. Never seen the price of them. But, if you can get cheap powder coating anyway, you may want to go for that with most metal to ensure all components' colour matches

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Pick up one of your receptacles. Peer into the wide slot on the front. Look off to the side of the slot, if you see the contacts for a cross slot like that found in a 20 amp receptacle, you know you have found a good heavy duty one. Cheap ones don't have anything in them they don't have to put in. Good quality ones will have the same guts, no matter if they are 15 amp or 20 amp, they just snap a different face plate on the front, and charge more for the 20 amp.

Charles

 

[puttsy]

Good quality ones will have the same guts, no matter if they are 15 amp or 20 amp, they just snap a different face plate on the front, and charge more for the 20 amp.

Usually 15A and 20A are the same price from my experience. GOOD receptacles do have the same innards though. They are almost all rated for 20A feed-through too if you do end up with 15A receptacles. Depending on where you get them, sometimes 20A are even cheaper due to them being the most common and higher quantity purchased.

As far as back-wire, I always stick with screw terminals. Back-stab Spec Grade receps are usually pretty darn solid (no stupid spring metal junk) but, I'm a bit old fashioned (although young) with wiring.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Usually 15A and 20A are the same price from my experience.

Home Depot, Leviton 15 amp, 5252 $5.68 (this is listed as "narrow body" while the 20 amp is not)

Home Depot Leviton 20 amp 5352 $6.98

Grainger Hubbell 15 amp 5252 $14.45 (also listed as narrow body)

Grainger Hubbell 20 amp 5352 $22.74

Yes, I know, the Grainger "list" price is crazy, but they discount pretty heavily, but still not enough for me usually.

Just trying to make the point, never seen 15 and 20 amp of the identical quality and style receptacles priced the same. 20 amp is always more anywhere I've looked.

 

[puttsy]

Prices on them vary largely depending on a lot of factors. I found 20A receps for cheaper than 15 at Platt (sudo electrical supplier) but, that's dependent on the market and such.

If you're curious:
Leviton 15A 5262 recep @ $9.46

Leviton 20A 5362 recep @ $8.66


But, there's not much price difference in general but, there often is a difference in Spec Grade receps. (The good ones) Also, very possibly when you are seeing odd pricing, it's that the unit has been discontinued or something else that has changed from the mfg. (May or may not be wise to cash in on the savings with that)

 

[Ironhorse]

Buy them on Ebay and buy Hubble..the best recpts in the market...the orange ones will have an extra gound..well really any of them will the little green mark on the front of them will but all good..Red is for Gensets...but all can be used in the house or garage..in a hospital they all have a purpose..orange is iso ground ( computer type gear ) red is genset..(power never goes out) and the ivory ones are dirty power ( good for everything else ) ...but use them all for what ever..buy off ebay..they are super $$$ out of any store

 

[Lotek]

Colored outlets and conduit? What's next? Doilies on the workbenches?

<Grumpy old man goes to get another cup of coffee.>

 

[madosta]

Colored outlets and conduit? What's next? Doilies on the workbenches?

<Grumpy old man goes to get another cup of coffee.>

I was starting to wonder myself. As soon as you plug a green or orange extension cord into a red receptacle, you're going to be irked.

Would that be against man code to plug a red cord into a green receptacle... your family might agree that the Case just-a-givin-it to the Deere is ok, but think about.

Then you'll have to get all the same color cords or you'll be feeling guilty...

What if a black cord is going to be giving it to the receptacle? Or will it even fit?!?!?