Combination Vs Box & Open-End Wrench Set

[oldschoolcraft]

I sold off my some of my tools including old US-made craftsman wrenches a decade ago when I stopped working on small motors proffesionally. I'm planning out my tool needs and trying to budget for and figure out what wrenches I want for the future.

I'd like to get back into some small motor repair but also basic auto repair. Possibly buying cars at auction and doing some repairs. Might even do a career shift into a trade school. Common sense tells me to buy cheap and wait until I get more into it, or even enroll in school before spending money on brand name tools but I'm a buy once, cry once kind of guy. Also, since I don't need the tools immediately, it gives me a chance to look for deals on the used market. I just need to figure out what I'm looking for.

So... I'm not sure if I should get a basic, medium-length set of combination wrenches in metric and standard. OR should I get a set of box wrenches and open-ended wrenches. I never understood why combination wrenches existed, except for ease of retail sales for the average user. I'm not a pro wrench, but in my limited experience in the past, I never needed both a box and open-end wrench in the same size, at the same time for the same bolt.

I wouldn't start with one side (say box), flip it, and switch to the other (open-end) on the same bolt. That scenario never came up, but please tell me if it does for pro mechanics. It seems to me that it might make more sense to have all box wrenches be together, and then all open-ended wrenches be together. Because I frequently didn't know what size wrench I needed when I went to the tool box. I could estimate within 2 or 3 sizes, and I knew if I wanted box or open.

So if I had a set of box-only and a second set of open-only, it would seem to save time, since I can grab one box wrench try it, and if it doesnt' fit, flip it, and try the other side. So one tool let's me try two sizes. With combination wrenches, I'd have to go get a whole nother wrench to try on the bolt if my size was wrong since the other side of that wrench is the same size!

Also, I used to own some craftsman racheting box wrenches, only in the common size for the motor bolts I used to work with the most. 7/16" I think. They made life faster for me, but I always worried they might break. So part 2 of my question - if I do go with box-only set, should I make them racheting or non? I'm guessing if I buy the high end SO ones, they probably will never break on me, unless I do something stupid like use a cheater pipe. Although I imagine you might lose some torque on the racheting ones since the wrench is reversible so the mechanisms lock must counter your force as you turn it against whatever direction is locked.

Last part - what about stubby wrenches? If those are useful for an intermediate-level kit, are they best in combination, box, open, or get both box and open?

And if stubby wrenches are a needed part of the set, would it make more sense to skip the standard length wrenches entirely and go with one set of stubby and one set of extra long? It seems like it would be wasteful for me to have 3 sets of wrenches (stubby, regular, and XL).

I know common logic would tell me to just get one set of combination wrenches in standard size, but if I'm going to eventually wind up with stubby, and XL, and box-end racheting, and open-end, then maybe at that point this first set of standard combination wrenches won't be needed anymore. In other words, I'd rather spend $1,000 on wrenches now up front, then spend $500 on standard combination set now, and then another $1,000 on more specialized wrenches in a few years, and never use the standard set again. I know the standard combination set will always be useful, but it might not be needed if I wind up with stubby and XL lengths later.

 

[ssdave]

I'd buy combination. I often break the bolt loose on the box end, and the use the open end for speed of operation. But, open ends rarely get used by themselves.

The wrench set I would buy dead last is an open end set. They are close to worthless. The only open end set that is remotely useful is the 30/60 set for use on hydraulic hoses.

In order of usefulness and greatest range of capability, I'd buy standard length combination, extra long DBE, long combination, short dbe, short combination, ratcheting, open end tappet, and then standard open end.

If you really want to minimize your sets, buy standard combination, long dbe and short dbe.

If you want to speed up your work instead of increasing overall capability, buy ratcheting after standard combo and long dbe.

 

[B_Bimmer]

Everything I have ever worked on box or socket works about 90% of the time. That last 10% though only an open end will do. I think that is why combination wrenches are the most common out there. If everything is available to me I'll go to double box wrenches first, but if I'm away from the box a combination wrench set and complete socket set in an appropriate drive size for the project is what follows me.

Double open end wrenches tend to be short and double box tend to be long so alone they could easily never be quite what you need either.

If you like quality tools it's really fun to get some new snap on tools for half price or occasionally better while in tech school, and if you have the money there are certain things they do very very well. There are advantages to having your name on an invoice for things like hex and Tory sockets, and nice screwdrivers which do break and wear out if actually used.

Edit: ssdave has tried it all and his advice is pretty solid.

 

[Wamsutta]

If I was starting from scratch knowing what I know now, I would get all Snap-on XL combination wrenches. Stubby wrenches also Snap-on. They make the sweetest wrenches on the face of the earth in my opinion.

 

[Mikeske]

I am going to say that combination wrenches are what most of us use as it is one size and you mainly use the box end if there is plenty of room around the bolt, nut what you.

Double box end wrenches generally have a offset of 15-45 degrees that allows access to nut, bolts that a straight wrench can not reach. If you look at my pictures my double box ends do have a 45 degree offset. When I wrenched professionally, I was a aircraft mechanic for 40 odd years before I retired. I also was originally trained to be a forklift mechanic. 95 out of a 100 times I use the box end and rarely ever used the open but there is always the special case of no access then the open end would be used.

I cannot make the case of buying double open end wrenches at all when the combination and double box end wrenches really are the best of having everything I ever needed. I do have the preference of using the longest possible wrench that will work in a given area and I have both long and short pattern combination wrenches. I do have double open wrenches but they were part of the tool package I bought from Bonney tools in 1983. The double open end wrenches I had since they were new and I think I used maybe one or two over the years. Open end wrenches have a nasty habit of slipping off the bolt, nut way to easy and the ends also have problems of spreading no matter who makes them and I have used almost all the brands and they all do it to a degree.

 

[Fretters]

Open end wrenches have a nasty habit of slipping off the bolt, nut way to easy and the ends also have problems of spreading no matter who makes them and I have used almost all the brands and they all do it to a degree.

Never really had a problem with jaw spreading, but the slippage is one good reason for going with combination spanners. You can put that extra bit of weight behind the spanner when using the ring end without worrying about smacked knuckles quite so much. I'll pretty much always use open-end spanners for stuff which isn't locked/rusted solid though, or for those occasions where a ring spanner just won't fit/work.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I'm looking on the snapon site trying to figure out which of the model of wrenches is considered best. I understand bluepoint is the imported line and want to avoid that.

Can someone tell me what model name is considered the best for combination and DBE wrenches?

Also, I've spent weeks reading threads on here on various subjects and 6 point socket versus 12 point socket comes up a lot. Why does it seem like only 12 point box end wrenches are 99% of them, and I haven't read much debate about why we don't get 6 point box-end wrenches?

Why does it matter so much if you're using 6 versus 12 on a socket, but 12 is fine on a wrench? Aren't you just as likely to strip a bolt face using as 12 point box end wrench, as you are using a 12 point socket? Or is torque greater on the socket?

 

[royesses]

When I had Snap-on in my working pro days I had 6 and 12 point in all my sockets and box end wrenches. The only open end wrenches I had were angle head since combo wrenches already have an open end. I always used 6 point as first choice to help prevent rounded fasteners and be able to break loose stubborn ones. Open ends tend to spread and round off fasteners when a lot of torque is required. The 12 point sockets and box wrenches are needed for 12 point fasteners and when limited access causes trouble. Just my reasoning of course. Everyone has his own opinion on this subject.

Roy

 

[ssdave]

Why does it matter so much if you're using 6 versus 12 on a socket, but 12 is fine on a wrench? Aren't you just as likely to strip a bolt face using as 12 point box end wrench, as you are using a 12 point socket? Or is torque greater on the socket?

Because, it really doesn't matter 6 point vs 12 if you have quality sockets. A lot of the hype comes from the ubiquitous use of Craftsman sockets in the US. With their quality problems over the years, a lot of people have come to believe that 12 point sockets round off nuts. My opinion, not shared by many others, is that 12 point is quite adequate if you have good sockets. The problem wasn't the 12 point design, it was the quality of the sockets.

I have both 12 point and 6 point, and have worked in rust areas (21 years north Idaho, 11 years South Dakota). Since I replaced my older Craftsman sockets with modern Proto and Snap-on, I have found that 12 point work fine. Yes, there is some minor mechanical advantage to 6 point. Yes, the 6 point have thicker walls and are less likely to "stretch". In reality, the difference is negligible on HIGH QUALITY SOCKETS. It is significant on lower quality sockets. So, if you buy gearwrench of HF instead of SO, buy 6 point. Or, if you prefer 6 point, buy them. Either will work, and the only real advantage to 12 point is they are slightly thinner and lighter, and can be used on 12 point bolts. I prefer them for the thinner and lighter aspect.

The real reason wrenches are 12 point instead of 6 point is positioning. 30 degree positioning instead of 60 degree is a huge advantage. On sockets, used with a ratchet, the ratchet allows small degree of angle positioning, so 6 point sockets work fine.

I'd get OEXM for standard length, or OEXLM for long length combination. Or, SOEXM for standard length with flank drive plus serrated jaw open end, or SOEXLM for long length with flank drive plus.

If you want 6 point, OSHM is the model. I don't like mine very well, although I use them occasionally. Mostly to add leverage to turn a stubborn hex key in tight quarters. I recently broke one doing that, and had it warranted out.

 

[Scooterfish]

Start with a set of combo wrenches and build out from there.When comparing wrenches from different manufactures don`t focus on standard, long, extra long pattern etc. Compare the actual length of the wrenches. You mentioned Snap On , their Standard combo wrenches are longer than many other manufactures standard wrenches.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Start with a set of combo wrenches and build out from there.When comparing wrenches from different manufactures don`t focus on standard, long, extra long pattern etc. Compare the actual length of the wrenches. You mentioned Snap On , their Standard combo wrenches are longer than many other manufactures standard wrenches.

I second Your suggestions; especially on the standard length SnapOn combination wrenches. I have no regrets with My metric and fractional sets, and find their length highly suitable. I have other brand name sets, but they are thicker than the SnapOn wrenches. Those Snappys will get into tighter places.

 

[Fialaja]

I agree with getting combo wrenches and perhaps some box end wrenches especially the double offset types. These are my go to favorite wrenches. If budget is a concern check out Cripe Distributing and e-bay

 

[joel63]

I'm looking on the snapon site trying to figure out which of the model of wrenches is considered best. I understand bluepoint is the imported line and want to avoid that.

Can someone tell me what model name is considered the best for combination and DBE wrenches?

Also, I've spent weeks reading threads on here on various subjects and 6 point socket versus 12 point socket comes up a lot. Why does it seem like only 12 point box end wrenches are 99% of them, and I haven't read much debate about why we don't get 6 point box-end wrenches?

Why does it matter so much if you're using 6 versus 12 on a socket, but 12 is fine on a wrench? Aren't you just as likely to strip a bolt face using as 12 point box end wrench, as you are using a 12 point socket? Or is torque greater on the socket?

Since you asked, I suggest starting with combination in SAE and METRIC..

Then follow with DBE in SAE and METRIC.

Next as the need arises, Short DBE in SAE and METRIC.

Combination SAE: OEX714 3/8 - 1 1/4 or OEX710 5/16 - 7/8.
Combination METRIC: OEXM 713 10 - 22 mm

DBE SAE: XB605
DBE METRIC: XBM605

Short DBE SAE: XS609
Short DBE METRIC XSM608


As far 12 point or 6 point goes, start with 12 point, then get 6 point as you find the the need.

Good luck in your tool acquisition.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Buy used Craftsman. Only the ones Made in USA.

 

[Rustypigeon]

I'm looking on the snapon site trying to figure out which of the model of wrenches is considered best. I understand bluepoint is the imported line and want to avoid that.

Take a look at the Wrightgrip combination wrenches. USA Made. I love mine. Cheaper than SnapOn.

 

[Tonyuk]

I would go for a good set of combo spanners from the offset, there's a metric and standard tekton set that get good reviews and are about £40 per set, go with decent but affordable, that way if you do end up liking it and buy a higher quality set you have another decent quality one to counterhold if needed.

I'm a fan of facom 440's but they're a bit shorter than most brand standard combo spanners but i haven't found this to be an issue, engine bays are cramped and a longer tool isn't always helpful, those long dbe's are nice to have but unless you have the car on some kind of lift they're awkward to use with the clearance between you and the car.

Personally i would go for the tekton metric set, a decent flare nut set, a cheapish stubby set and then maybe a deep offset dbe set. That should cover pretty much everything for basic repairs spanner wise.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

20+ years as an auto tech and small engine hobbyist. I am not sure I've ever bought a new wrench that wasn't a combo, certainly not a set.
I probably have a couple hundred DOE and DBE's now though.
I do need stubbies from time to time. It only takes a few seconds to shorten a wrench if you need to.

 

[M6erfan]

I use DOE's. For suspension work, a thin DOE can save the day. Also, jam nuts, etc. I dont use them all that often, but they do come in handy. Nothing wrong with a set of DOE and DBE in lieu of combos. That's my $.02 anyway...

 

[Davefr]

Take a look at the Wrightgrip combination wrenches. USA Made. I love mine. Cheaper than SnapOn.

^^Agree. IMHO they're better then SO and at a tiny fraction of the price.

 

[Jimithing616]

I'd buy combination. I often break the bolt loose on the box end, and the use the open end for speed of operation. But, open ends rarely get used by themselves.

The wrench set I would buy dead last is an open end set. They are close to worthless. The only open end set that is remotely useful is the 30/60 set for use on hydraulic hoses.

In order of usefulness and greatest range of capability, I'd buy standard length combination, extra long DBE, long combination, short dbe, short combination, ratcheting, open end tappet, and then standard open end.

If you really want to minimize your sets, buy standard combination, long dbe and short dbe.

If you want to speed up your work instead of increasing overall capability, buy ratcheting after standard combo and long dbe.

This ^ basically sums it up....

Very good advice, however, if a guy were trying to make do with less wrenches, a good well rounded set of gearwrenches can do most of what you need, of course having other types is a very nice luxury!

 

[Wamsutta]

Can someone tell me what model name is considered the best for combination and DBE wrenches?

Sure, we'll use 13mm for an example:

Midget Length Combination = OEXIM13B
Short Length Combination = OEXM13B
Standard Length Combination = OEXM130B
Long Length Combination = OEXLM13B
Double Box End = XBM1315A

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Thanks for the great advise so far. Here is what I am currently leaning for as a strategy:

Buy Standard Length Combination Snap On Wrenches - they are the same length as long for most other brands. I would buy them all in metric first. And then, I would add in standard sizes, piecemeal, except I would not buy the following sizes, and would use the pretty close metric equivalent.

5/16" = 7.9375mm, which is 0.06mm away from 8mm
7/16" = 11.11mm which is 0.11mm away from 11mm
3/4" = 19.05mm which is 0.05mm away from 19mm

That's 3 less wrenches I need to buy and from reading through a dozen threads on this metric-SAE crossover discussion, it seems like there's many who think you should never crossover, and many who think it's fine if less than 0.2mm difference.

I'm not a professional, so if I put the metric wrench on an SAE bolt and it doesn't feel right, I have the option to stop, take a few days off, and get the correct wrench. Also, from what I'm learning, metric is a lot more useful than SAE for cars, whereas SAE is more useful for household things. And I imagine bolts are torqued higher on cars than household items, so that my default should be metric, and then household items using 5/16", 7/16" and 3/4" will get the close-enough metric equivalent.

Also, since household items have less torqued on bolts, I might be able to use an adjustable knipex pliers-wrench or adjustable crescent wrench on them, as needed.

Does this seem like a reasonable strategy or I am crazy for considering it? SO wrenches are like $30 each, so getting to skip 3 of them is a nice bit of savings.

Also, it seems like SO makes standard-length metric wrenches in 7mm to 30mm and they make sets that cover different subsets of that full spectrum. Which size range makes the most sense to go with? I assume at the higher end of the spectrum, there's less need for the bigger wrenches for everyday handiman and auto repair stuff.

I do like the idea of really small wrench sizes since I am not an automechanic and do all sorts of household stuff, and various electronic devices have smaller fittings on them. Then again, perhaps I don't need wrenches for those smaller fittings at all. Perhaps sockets will work just fine. Don't really need to generate a lot of torque on a toaster or something. So maybe my strategy of what size range wrenches to get should include my access to sockets since having sockets might make the smaller size wrenches less needed?

 

[jfrey123]

I think the standard 8-22mm spread of a combo wrench set should get most non-pro's through most projects. Start there and, as you say, take a day to go buy a bigger wrench once you come across a need for it. I have a large SAE wrench set I hang onto because grandpa gave it to me, and ended up using my SK 1 7/16 for the first time ever back in Dec on a Ford Ranger fan clutch. Was fun to have but could have used an adjustable wrench in a pinch.

But I gotta ask: I read through the same posts you've read here, and I have no idea how/why you landed on $30 per piece SO wrenches for your own described non-professional needs. I do everything from small engines to suspensions and home jobs same as you describe and can't find a reason to spend $30 on one wrench when some of the 15 piece kits from well liked brands on this board can be had for $49.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

But I gotta ask: I read through the same posts you've read here, and I have no idea how/why you landed on $30 per piece SO wrenches for your own described non-professional needs. I do everything from small engines to suspensions and home jobs same as you describe and can't find a reason to spend $30 on one wrench when some of the 15 piece kits from well liked brands on this board can be had for $49.

It makes me happy to have the absolute highest quality, nicest tools, and I have the money to afford it. Whenever I've bought something of low quality, just to get by, I've always regretted it and wind up spending more money in the long run buying the higher quality, more expensive version.

However, it also makes me happy not to have extra stuff I will never need or use. That's why my desire to use those 3 metric sizes instead of SAE.

Me personally, I'd be much happier having a set of 20 snap on wrenches of the 95% most used sizes/styles than having 200 Taiwan wrenches that can do everything. I know that I'm crazy and weird, but that's just how I'm hardwired.

I won't be buying any tools on credit, only cash, so it doesn't hurt me too bad to go overboard.

It's not just with handtools. I also got into cooking a few years ago and immediately bought a $100 Thermoworks meat thermometer. I only use it once a week, and could probably get by with a $10 Chinese-meat thermometer, and in the long run financially, I'd be better off buying a new $10 china special every few years but I don't want my kitchen filled with chinese **** that I throw away and doesn't work well. One way I compensate is by minimizing my kitchen tools. I only have one small drawer of kitchen tools. Many people have several drawers worth, but I've minimized down to a single meat fork, single pair of tongs, spatula, and ladle. I can cook everything with those few tools, and I bought the highest quality versions of those I could find.

I respect that some people can't afford to buy the brand name stuff, or have to put it on 20% credit cards, or maybe just prefer having a large number of tools/things. Everyone is wired different. For me, give me a small number of Snap On wrenches, Knipex pliers, etc, and that makes me happy.

 

[M6erfan]

It makes me happy to have the absolute highest quality, nicest tools, and I have the money to afford it. Whenever I've bought something of low quality, just to get by, I've always regretted it and wind up spending more money in the long run buying the higher quality, more expensive version.

However, it also makes me happy not to have extra stuff I will never need or use. That's why my desire to use those 3 metric sizes instead of SAE.

Me personally, I'd be much happier having a set of 20 snap on wrenches of the 95% most used sizes/styles than having 200 Taiwan wrenches that can do everything. I know that I'm crazy and weird, but that's just how I'm hardwired.

I won't be buying any tools on credit, only cash, so it doesn't hurt me too bad to go overboard.

It's not just with handtools. I also got into cooking a few years ago and immediately bought a $100 Thermoworks meat thermometer. I only use it once a week, and could probably get by with a $10 Chinese-meat thermometer, and in the long run financially, I'd be better off buying a new $10 china special every few years but I don't want my kitchen filled with chinese **** that I throw away and doesn't work well. One way I compensate is by minimizing my kitchen tools. I only have one small drawer of kitchen tools. Many people have several drawers worth, but I've minimized down to a single meat fork, single pair of tongs, spatula, and ladle. I can cook everything with those few tools, and I bought the highest quality versions of those I could find.

I respect that some people can't afford to buy the brand name stuff, or have to put it on 20% credit cards, or maybe just prefer having a large number of tools/things. Everyone is wired different. For me, give me a small number of Snap On wrenches, Knipex pliers, etc, and that makes me happy.

Good answer, I can relate. However, I own relatively few snap on tools. I'm also a big fan of value, and the S-O warranty, truck visits, etc. are lost on me as a home gamer.

 

[Regal2800]

It makes me happy to have the absolute highest quality, nicest tools, and I have the money to afford it. Whenever I've bought something of low quality, just to get by, I've always regretted it and wind up spending more money in the long run buying the higher quality, more expensive version.

However, it also makes me happy not to have extra stuff I will never need or use. That's why my desire to use those 3 metric sizes instead of SAE.

Me personally, I'd be much happier having a set of 20 snap on wrenches of the 95% most used sizes/styles than having 200 Taiwan wrenches that can do everything. I know that I'm crazy and weird, but that's just how I'm hardwired.

I won't be buying any tools on credit, only cash, so it doesn't hurt me too bad to go overboard.

It's not just with handtools. I also got into cooking a few years ago and immediately bought a $100 Thermoworks meat thermometer. I only use it once a week, and could probably get by with a $10 Chinese-meat thermometer, and in the long run financially, I'd be better off buying a new $10 china special every few years but I don't want my kitchen filled with chinese **** that I throw away and doesn't work well. One way I compensate is by minimizing my kitchen tools. I only have one small drawer of kitchen tools. Many people have several drawers worth, but I've minimized down to a single meat fork, single pair of tongs, spatula, and ladle. I can cook everything with those few tools, and I bought the highest quality versions of those I could find.

I respect that some people can't afford to buy the brand name stuff, or have to put it on 20% credit cards, or maybe just prefer having a large number of tools/things. Everyone is wired different. For me, give me a small number of Snap On wrenches, Knipex pliers, etc, and that makes me happy.

Yup i agree as well. For hand tools, i haven't been able to beat snap on & knipex. i have/used Husky, craftsman, stanley, gear wrench, sunex, harbor freight etc. and they dont even come close to snap on and knipex.

Snap on is very expensive and is not for everyone. If you use tools a lot and can afford it there is no question imho.

 

[bmwrd0]

From reading your post and replies, I would skip Snap On. In my opinion, there are other makers (Proto, Wright) who provide a product every bit as good, and sometimes better, at a better price. And that better price is from not having a truck show up weekly at your place of business. Because that is what you are paying for with Snap On. Two of the best mechanics I have ever know wouldn't step on the truck when it showed up, as they knew were to find perfectly good tools at a better price. They spent the money on things like Flukes and really good pullers.

 

[Davefr]

It makes me happy to have the absolute highest quality, nicest tools, and I have the money to afford it. Whenever I've bought something of low quality, just to get by, I've always regretted it and wind up spending more money in the long run buying the higher quality, more expensive version.

I agree 100%.

However the choices for "top shelf" tools are hardly ever limited to SO. If you're not in need of local dealer support, you can get top tier quality at much better prices.

Why pay a huge premium for dealer support if you don't need it. That's wasted $'s.

 

[santropedro]

I looked at your pictures. I see lots of wrenches offset 15 degrees, are there some offset by 45 degrees, as your message seemed to imply? I've always seen wrenches tilted 15 degrees.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I agree with your strategy of buying combo then box ends. Snap On is top notch, but so are Wright, Proto and SK. Consider getting ratcheting combos and solid box ends. The new SK ratcheting combos are wonderful, if you are happy with non-reversing.

The only downside to the truck brands is that their high cost, high service business model shows up in the price tag, and if you're a home user, you get none of the benefits you are paying for, since the tool truck won't stop at your house on Saturday afternoon when you're home.

There was a time when only Bonny had the off-corner engagement that Snap On later called Flank Drive. Back then, cheap 12 point sockets would round nuts way quicker than the cheapie 6 point sockets. All the older weekend mechanics knew that 12 point rounds nuts. Back then, with our Crapsman sockets, they did! Today, it hardly matters which we use.

 

[Shelbylex]

Another option:
1. If you want it right away: look for a lightly used set from person who bought set at 50% discount in tech school and decided not to proceed or from retiring mechanic. Sometimes CL, eBay, etc post good deals
2. If you have time and want better pricing, buy SK, Proto, Bonney or other good brand on which you find good deal and keep looking for SO. Once you find great SO deal, offload original set to return the money.
Same goes for sockets...
For example: I found a deal on standard SK 3/8 set minus 13mm and extender (barely used) for 15$. I am slowly picking up SO when I see deals. Since I buy only good deals, I Sold some of my old/cheaper/less desirable sockets couple of times as boxes full of staff for low price - returned my money, passed good deals to others and spent almost no time selling it... But this is slow way - I enjoy having different things and trying them...

 

[seber]

I have one set of long combinations and one set of short combinations. (all very unmatched) About half were from the Snap-on truck one at a time. I have yet to find a reason to look for anything else. It gives me every option. I do often start with the box end then switch to open end on the same bolt head. If I were starting over I would likely buy the Tekton as they are good quality and have the fit and finish of Snap-on.

 

[RKA]

I looked at your pictures. I see lots of wrenches offset 15 degrees, are there some offset by 45 degrees, as your message seemed to imply? I've always seen wrenches tilted 15 degrees.

If you look at the last of the 4 pictures, on the right side it’s easier to see. The 45 degree has the box end significantly offset from the beam so it can reach inside a pulley to access a bolt. This offset is different from the beam to box angle of 15 degrees, which is mostly to save your knuckles from scraping as you swing the wrench. No one is better than the other, just different and depending on what you’re trying to access and the space available to swing the wrench, one may not be suitable at all.