commercial epoxy application

[nokkieny]

I finally ended my debate between polish/seal and epoxy/urethane and decided to go with the epoxy

A few years ago I used epoxy-coat + HPU 747 urethane in my garage and it is still going strong except outside the garage door that is yellowed. Makes sense I suppose since it is exposed to the sun all day.

The new project is a hair salon. I want to use clear epoxy to show the concrete floor color. I have a question:

When I was comparing the two options someone said I should use a water based epoxy, I believe because it would be a good primer and wont darken? Anyways this is the one thing I need some clarity on, all the posts I can find about water based basically say it is a sub-par product, so some input would be appreciated.

 

[skulldrinker]

My uncle has a coating on his floor. I don't know what type it is. It's a salt and pepper big flakes design all black and white. I just noticed that yellowing you mention last week. As soon as you open the big door you can see the apron is all yellowed and the inside is still B&W. Probably nothing he can do about that. I don't think he cares either.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The wb clear is a good primer to a much more chemical and scratch resistant clear urethane. You are correct. The wb on its own would not be as tough.

 

[nokkieny]

Any suggestions on waterbased epoxy product?
Also, would I find a noticeable benefit in using two coats of either product?

My main concerns in order are Durability(chemical resistance), Yellowing, orange peel look, maintaining gloss.

Also, Should I be concerned about what the floor will look like after grinding, as I will be using clear? It is going to show the grind pattern.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Suggestions:
WB epoxy link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/standard-epoxy-clear-sealer-p-156.html
Urethane link:http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd356voc-urethane-clear-coat-p-153.html
Yes, these are our links.

Your first coat of WB will be patchy as it gets absorbed into the concrete.
Second coat of WB will look good, matte gloss and even.
Your third coat will be the urethane. One even coat is all you need.

Yes, you will see any swirls, grinding marks, etc... You will have to discuss this with your contractor prior to work commencing, explaining your expectations.

 

[pauloman]

water based floor epoxies go on thin and then shrink down. They show all the flaws as opposed to a thick solvent free or high solids epoxy. They get really good coverage and are cheap. Many DIY kits use waterbased epoxies to offer a cheap price.

Water based epoies tend not to yellow as much and are easy to use with almost no pot life issues and water cleanup.

Personally I like then as a primer under solvent free epoxies.

the dirty little secret in 'sell to the sucker home owner' epoxy floor market is the optional clear coat product. Most sell you cheap 1 part acrylic etc. to keep the prices down. What the real pros use is a LPU (2 part poly) - an acrylic polyurethane or the even more expensive polyester polyurethane (in the over priced marine market these can sell for $500 a gallon). Even then, unless expensive UV blockers and absorbers are added, the epoxy under them will yellow. You can add UV blockers to 2 part polys (auto clear coat is a classic example of an acrylic poly LPU with UV blockers) but not to thermoset resin systems like epoxies.

 

[jose jj jacinto]

epoxy is a great product. since you mentioned that the floor is in a hair salon, with alot of traffic, there will always be the issue of a recoat every two years or so, depenind on the product and the traffic. also, epoxy uv ureathanes will need to be used so your floor will not yellow. the reason that its yellowing is becasuse the epoxy was not uv resistant. best thing to do if you went to epoxy is to add a chemical resistant ureathane.

concrete polishing is another option. there are now some acids that are uv resistant. the maintenance is low and less expensive compared to the epoxy.