Commercial Grade Ridgid Foam
- Thread starter Mamrak76
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My house is insulated with it, why not your garage. I cut and fit 2 by 6 walls with it and then laid an inch over the studs. Heats like a dream
If its a narrow gap I used cheap latex caulk, wide gap, canned foam.
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Randy in Maine
Well-known member
The most nasty stuff I ever cut on my table saw.
Warrenator
Well-known member
I would take that in a heartbeat, cut it all to fit between the studs with maybe 1/8" undersize, like on a table saw or something so I could cut the sheets to size very repeatably and quick, then fill the gaps with one of the canned foam fillers.
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
should work fine.
Sound good. Aside from a table saw what else is a practical cutting method?
FYI Today I hauled 130 cubic yards of the insulation out of a job. After getting the speedy response and info from walrus, I decided to bring my truck and 40 cubic yards of insulation home with me. So I should have plenty! If anyone is local to Kentucky feel free to stop by and get some! PM me
FYI Today I hauled 130 cubic yards of the insulation out of a job. After getting the speedy response and info from walrus, I decided to bring my truck and 40 cubic yards of insulation home with me. So I should have plenty! If anyone is local to Kentucky feel free to stop by and get some! PM me
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Standard 2x4 batts work out approx R12
Roofing foam I believe is R4 per inch so 2.5" would be R10. Correct me on this if I am wrong.
So if you are willing to lose R2 for no money changing hands that is your call. My garage build is 2x6 so I am going for the full R20. I also have some 4" of roof insulation left over. We did 2 layers of 4" offset insulation for 8" total no seams that way.
Have to admit you got me thinking but think I will sell the rigid insulation and go batts.
Roofing foam I believe is R4 per inch so 2.5" would be R10. Correct me on this if I am wrong.
So if you are willing to lose R2 for no money changing hands that is your call. My garage build is 2x6 so I am going for the full R20. I also have some 4" of roof insulation left over. We did 2 layers of 4" offset insulation for 8" total no seams that way.
Have to admit you got me thinking but think I will sell the rigid insulation and go batts.
Marctrees
Well-known member
Sounds like you mean free, no $.
WOW you get the You **** Award for the month.
Cutting w/o tablesaw - First load up on the stuff, then worry about cutting.
Many ways to do it, some neater than others.
2.5" thick kinda hassle w razorknife, but can cut one side 1" deep and snap upside down along workbench edge at worst.
Kinda caveman, but with simplest tools, will work.
Google "foam sheet cutting" for ideas.
Excellent stuff, be aware of ??flammable?? or not. Marc
WOW you get the You **** Award for the month.
Cutting w/o tablesaw - First load up on the stuff, then worry about cutting.
Many ways to do it, some neater than others.
2.5" thick kinda hassle w razorknife, but can cut one side 1" deep and snap upside down along workbench edge at worst.
Kinda caveman, but with simplest tools, will work.
Google "foam sheet cutting" for ideas.
Excellent stuff, be aware of ??flammable?? or not. Marc
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jimmiller2
Active member
I just did my new house in the very same stuff. I also got it in Kentucky from a roofing company just north of Lebanon Tennessee. I cut on table saw and tried to cut to fit tightly between studs, even requiring it be tapped into place. House is brick covered block, with roof trusses so all interior framing is non structural. Have from 5 to six inches in walls at about R 5 per inch. 1200 sq foot using a new Thrane 1 1/5 T heat pump my electrical bill last winter with lights, power tools, but no hot water yet, was 40 to 45 per month. Thermostat was set on 65 degrees as I didn't live there yet and was still doing flooring etc. Another factor working in my favor is I used exposed commercial spiral duct work that is inside heated space. No AC running thru a 120 degree attic or heating in winter thru a attic space as cold as outside.
Its closed cell foam, R7 an inch.
Bamafan
Well-known member
@Miss the Pontiacs: Actual fiberglass batts have different r values at the same thickness because manufacturers can vary their density (how much glass per cubic inch). So a 3.5" batt can be R11, R13, or R15. That's why they have a labeling requirement.
@Mamrac17: Two pieces of advice:
1) The key to installing your great free find will be proper sealing of the barn (hit every crack and gap with a sealant that won't just peel away after a few years) and ensuring there are a minimal number of gaps in the insulation. This second task is much more difficult with rigid board but not at all impossible.
2) Foams of this type are generally massive resivoirs of fuel just waiting for a flame to feed them. So you should cover them with a fire-rated material. Check out a site like Fire Safe Europe so see why.
Good luck with the install!!
@Mamrac17: Two pieces of advice:
1) The key to installing your great free find will be proper sealing of the barn (hit every crack and gap with a sealant that won't just peel away after a few years) and ensuring there are a minimal number of gaps in the insulation. This second task is much more difficult with rigid board but not at all impossible.
2) Foams of this type are generally massive resivoirs of fuel just waiting for a flame to feed them. So you should cover them with a fire-rated material. Check out a site like Fire Safe Europe so see why.
Good luck with the install!!
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In doing my normal pre project research I heard about a study where they concluded that batts with a higher R value was worse then foam of a lower R value.
http://thechronicleherald.ca/homesnews/131352-insulation-values-not-what-they-seem
Bamafan
Well-known member
The foam industry spends a ton of $ on PR to push stories like this. But pay attention to what articles like this say: These panels work because they are sealed properly, not because they are foam. But you can do that with any structure with proper air sealing. Air sealing is the key. I've seen many, many tests on houses with batts that beat foam because they were properly sealed (and visa-versa).
"When choosing an insulation product, it’s important to understand that there’s no such thing as a 'superior insulator.' According to the Building Sciences Corporation, all types of insulation perform equally well when properly installed and air sealed." (I got that from the Insulation Institute web site)
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Ok thanks for the info. I will make sure and seal up all the joints with canned spray foam. I got the garage door done today and I am starting on the roof! So far my infrared temp gun said 115 on the garage door now down to 86 with the insulation up. The roof was over 120 now down around 90 on the 3 pieces I've put up! So it will be much better then nothing!!
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Walrus would this pic example be considered considered open cell. How do you tell the difference. This is an. example is coming in at R4 per inch.
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jimmiller2
Active member
The poly ISO boards like I used are rated at a R value of 6 per inch, but it degrades somewhat over time. I counted mine a 5. I started with the bare block wall (ten foot ceilings) and placed 1/2 inch XPS blue board against block then a continuous 1 1-2 inch poly ISO board over lapping all joints. I then framed against this with 2 by 4 and then filled the stud cavity with carefully cut and presses in poly ISO being sure to over lap all joints. All exposed joints then taped and sheet rocked. The attic has from ceiling sheet rock , r19 Batts with poly ISO on top six inches thick. My $ 40 dollar per month heat pump heat bill for
Dec, Jan, February, is proof enough for me that all is well.
Dec, Jan, February, is proof enough for me that all is well.
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Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Thanks Walrus I have the PU in my garage doors. So from what it says below if I can light it in fire it is PS if not it is PU. I have some materials left over from my build and if it proves out to be PU I will use it. Where I run my electrical I will however use standard insulation batts. The info below was copied from the net.
Fire Resistance – We distribute panels that contain UL Class 1 rated polyurethane foam. The UL Class 1 Rating Means that the polyurethane contained within the panel is not a source for fire. Polyurethane will not burn on its own, in fact when left to burn the fire will extenguish itself. A UL Class 1 rating is the highest rating a building product can obtain. Polyurethane is better defined as a thermal-set plastic, which means this product will not melt at temperatures below 1000 degrees. Expanded Polystyrene on the other hand will soften at 180 degrees and it will melt at 240 degrees. You Be the judge!!
R- Value – Polyurethane is the most efficient manmade insulation in the world. Polyurethane can be found in most refrigerators, freezers, and in some high end personal coolers. When calculated Per inch of insulation, polyurethane has no equal. The walk in coolers and walk in freezers that we distribute are made of polyurethane. EXPANDED
POLYSTYRENE has a R-value as high as R-5 and as low as R-2 per inch.
POLYURETHANE HAS AN R-VALUE as high as R-7 and as low as R-8 / INCH.
I got my garage door insulated today and it went very slow. I will be picking up a table saw tomorrow! For Sure!!! But I got plenty unloaded for doing the roof. Hopefully it will be enough! I tried to do some calculations and came up with 588 sqft for the roof only. Plus the area above the garage door and the top of the back wall. I can't wait until it's all done and I can reap the benefits of my tedious labor!
I did my entire 30x40 walls and ceiling with that stuff, reclaimed roofing foam. the r factor is like R9 or R11 I think, and it is easy to cut and put up. works well. just wear long sleeves as the fiberglass covering will be itchy. I used a long thin steak knife to cut the holes for the lights and stuff once it was up. you can also paint it I was told by the guy I got it from but I just left it black. I used 3.5" screws and cut a bunch of little square plates out of luan on the table saw but there are metal plates made for those if you want them to look more professional.
edit: is it really 3"? mine are 2.5" and fit perfectly flush between the gurts.
edit: is it really 3"? mine are 2.5" and fit perfectly flush between the gurts.
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As this is reused insulation it is not totally square. Neither are my 24 inch on center rafters. Are there any tips for squaring up the material? I got a table saw today and i had a very hard time making cuts. Should all my rafters be all the same width all the way up? My table saw blade seems to bind up on the foam. This project is going to be a learning curve of which I have just started.
I used a drywall square with a utility knife and just scored/snapped like drywall. it fits tight with a friction fit between the studs, they won't be square anyway so just cut it oversized and use a sharp thin filet or boning knife to slice it to fit once it is up. if you want something to hold it, (I used signs hanging over most of the surface area) you can use drywall screws and fender washers. fill gaps with spray foam if you want, but I laid my wiring on top of the gurts so there is a gap there I wanted to leave open. I kind of boxed in and around the door headers.
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Jon_E
Well-known member
I did the exact same thing in my garage. 4000+ square feet of 2" thick, recycled polyiso roofing foam. Most of it looked brand new, even though it had been on a roof for 20 years. I cut mine with a razor knife, undersized slightly to fit loosely in the stud bay, and then sealed around it with commercial canned spray foam. I used a Loctite brand adhesive to glue the foam boards into each bay.
After that, I got a couple of 600 BF DIY spray foam kits, so I covered everything with another inch of spray foam to add R-value and seal it up. The underside of the roof got two layers of the rigid foam, as I had enough of it, so it works out to about an R25 to 30 I guess. The walls are about an R15. I only need to keep the space around 62-65 degrees in winter and in the 70's in summer. Total cost to me has been less than $1000 for spray foam and the adhesive, for a 1600-sf garage.
Edit: should add that I tried several methods for cutting the foam and the razor knife worked best. Circular saw made a horrible mess and I didn't feel like cleaning up floating foam particles for months.
After that, I got a couple of 600 BF DIY spray foam kits, so I covered everything with another inch of spray foam to add R-value and seal it up. The underside of the roof got two layers of the rigid foam, as I had enough of it, so it works out to about an R25 to 30 I guess. The walls are about an R15. I only need to keep the space around 62-65 degrees in winter and in the 70's in summer. Total cost to me has been less than $1000 for spray foam and the adhesive, for a 1600-sf garage.
Edit: should add that I tried several methods for cutting the foam and the razor knife worked best. Circular saw made a horrible mess and I didn't feel like cleaning up floating foam particles for months.
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even with the razor knife I was cleaning up little strips of foam and fiberglass! that stuff seemed to static cling to everything and it definitely made a mess but was well worth it. I got mine used for around $1.50 per sheet and though some had some water staining it was pretty much like new.
the ceiling: I added fiberglass bats on top of the foam between the rafters to increase the R-value.
only thing it didn't work well on was the one non-insulated garage door. I tried piecing it in the sections but it never really would stay put, and the extra weight made the door a bit heavy for the springs...so I just crank the heat up a bit!
the ceiling: I added fiberglass bats on top of the foam between the rafters to increase the R-value.
only thing it didn't work well on was the one non-insulated garage door. I tried piecing it in the sections but it never really would stay put, and the extra weight made the door a bit heavy for the springs...so I just crank the heat up a bit!
kj_mustang
Well-known member
The best foam cutting tool I used was a putty knife with one long edge sharpened. Pull it towards you and snap the foam over away from the cut if the cut doesn't go all the way through.
Thanks for the replies! I tried the putty knife idea and it is handy. My foam has fiberglass sheets on both sides so it's hard to clean cut with a knife. I ended up buying a new fine tooth table saw blade for plywood for $10 and it's worked flawlessly. I am slowly getting it done. I ended up buying a tyvec suit and that's also helped. The dust gets on everything!