Common taps & dies?

[Tech89]

I've been looking a bit at tap and die sets. I tried Googling a couple different phrases, but couldn't come up with much.
So I've been wondering, what are some common tap and die sizes and thread pitches for the automotive industry, okay maybe that's not a great question. By make/brand maybe? Like for example, I work at a General Motors dealer, what are some of the most common bolt sizes and thread pitches that GM uses on their vehicles?

What about other makes? Heavy equipment maybe? Diesel?

I'm just interested to find out.

I'm also not totally sure what the real differences between a tap and die set is compared to a rethreading set other than I think with a tap and die set you can make new threads and a rethreading set you can only clean threads?

-Pat

Sent from somewhere in Minnesota

 

[Fretters]

I'm also not totally sure what the real differences between a tap and die set is compared to a rethreading set other than I think with a tap and die set you can make new threads and a rethreading set you can only clean threads?

Taps and dies cut threads. Reformers are, for wont of a better description, blunt taps and dies. They force/reform/bludgeon a thread back into shape.

 

[astroracer]

I've been looking a bit at tap and die sets. I tried Googling a couple different phrases, but couldn't come up with much.
So I've been wondering, what are some common tap and die sizes and thread pitches for the automotive industry, okay maybe that's not a great question. By make/brand maybe? Like for example, I work at a General Motors dealer, what are some of the most common bolt sizes and thread pitches that GM uses on their vehicles?

What about other makes? Heavy equipment maybe? Diesel?

I'm just interested to find out.

I'm also not totally sure what the real differences between a tap and die set is compared to a rethreading set other than I think with a tap and die set you can make new threads and a rethreading set you can only clean threads?

-Pat

Sent from somewhere in Minnesota

Most everything automotive has been metric for years. GM started going that route in the early eighties. The hold outs were heirarchy castings and forgings (like engines and driveline components) but all of that has been replaced with new stuff and all of that is imperial now.
If you are working on new stuff you will need a metric set. If you are working on old stuff you will need an SAE set.
Common sizes will be from 1/4" (6mm) to 5/8" (14mm). look for a set with those sizes and in increments of 1/16th" (2mm).
Mark

 

[Tech89]

Most everything automotive has been metric for years. GM started going that route in the early eighties. The hold outs were heirarchy castings and forgings (like engines and driveline components) but all of that has been replaced with new stuff and all of that is imperial now.
If you are working on new stuff you will need a metric set. If you are working on old stuff you will need an SAE set.
Common sizes will be from 1/4" (6mm) to 5/8" (14mm). look for a set with those sizes and in increments of 1/16th" (2mm).
Mark

Thank you.

-Pat

Sent from somewhere in Minnesota

 

[Ign]

Yep, for newer vehicles I'd look for M5, M6, M8, M10, M12 and M14 (GM tie rods). Generally at least for the latter 3 get coarse and fine.

 

[signcrafter]

The common sizes are the ones you need and don't have. I have a pretty decent set, the same one most tool trucks sell but still find I need other ones.

 

[Finky198]

If you look at the sizes in the 40 and 48 piece thread restorer sets, they contain most of the commonly used sizes for the auto industry and general purpose. Then just buy similar sized taps and dies as compared to those sets (most likely metric)

Check out irwins website it has tons useful information

As time goes by ur sets will increase in size due to your needs. I'd say at this point we have 100+ taps/dies, 65+ rethreaders, plus files and a bunch of NES thread tools, I would buy what you need in the moment as you could easily spend $1000s on stuff you might never use...

 

[Tech89]

Thanks Finky and everyone. Much appreciated.

-Pat

Sent from somewhere in Minnesota

 

[Murphy4570]

If you work at a dealer, just buy a metric tap and die set off of the Snap-On truck. Only thing it doesn't have is 12x1.25mm which you would need on some Japanese stuff. Obviously a non issue at a GM dealer. You can save some scratch if you buy off of McMaster-Carr or something like that though.

As far as manufacturers, GTD is a good one. USA made too. Call your local machine shop and pick the brain of one of the machinists if you are curious enough.

 

[skruft]

I would only add that older cars and trucks often do not use metric sizes, or use a combination.

 

[Ign]

If you work at a dealer, just buy a metric tap and die set off of the Snap-On truck. Only thing it doesn't have is 12x1.25mm which you would need on some Japanese stuff. Obviously a non issue at a GM dealer. You can save some scratch if you buy off of McMaster-Carr or something like that though.

As far as manufacturers, GTD is a good one. USA made too. Call your local machine shop and pick the brain of one of the machinists if you are curious enough.

Yes, Toyota loves M12 x 1.25!!

 

[MFolks]

When I worked in California,building large electrical equipment, the panels had 4-40,6-32,8-32, and 10-32 fasteners. Sometimes the engineers wanted to add parts, so taps were needed(along with he proper drill bits). The bottoms of the chassis where the transformers, and chokes were mounted had 1/4"-20,5/16"-18,3/18"-16,7/16"-14, and sometimes 1/2"-13 hardware,depending on the size of the unit. Some products could be rack mounted,or sit on a bench top, the heaviest ones weighed 2-1/2 tons.

Wiring could be as small as 22 gauge for control circuits,with 14,16,and 10-12 gauge for some circuit requirements,while the heavier gauges 0f 6,8,2,4, and 4 "ot" (the letter 4 with 0000) a flexible copper conductor the size of my thumb,covered in a plastic and fiberglass insulator.